Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ich think this is not about pressure. The additional pressure caused by an air lock equals the height of water inside it, in other words, nearly no additional pressure.

I guess it is about the quick exit that co2 can take due to lower co2 concentration in the surrounding air caused by good exchange of air, or about additional oxygen intake or both.

Any way, an open air lock or a nearly closed lid wouldn't do it in this scenario as the air would be still kind of trapped within the fermenter.
Agreed. Less space means less compressibility of air in the head space.

Having the CO2 spill over the sides and to not be concentrated is what allows the vinyl-4-guaiacol
ester formation. CO2 in high concentration inhibits the esters. That's pretty much the common statement by the experts and most publications advocating for open fermatation.

That said, you need to do the 113F ferulic acid rest so this will happen.
 
Agreed. Less space means less compressibility of air in the head space.

Having the CO2 spill over the sides and to not be concentrated is what allows the vinyl-4-guaiacol
ester formation. CO2 in high concentration inhibits the esters. That's pretty much the common statement by the experts and most publications advocating for open fermatation.

That said, you need to do the 113F ferulic acid rest so this will happen.
Maybe I'll just use tie some muslin cloth over the bucket. I'm still paranoid about a fruit fly getting in and introducing an acetic acid bacteria, at least till I get the hang of it.

I was planning on doing the combined rest at 113F. Schneiderweisse has been my target for hefe (at least what I remember it being after 15 years since I was in Germany). Now I just need to get it in my schedule.
 
She's in the can at the fourth day to spund. The spund valve is set to the max, odds are I can dial it back before tomorrow afternoon. I'm going to target 17psi or 1.8 VoCO2.

First pic is my drained fermenter.... So you can see what happened to the krausen.

Then my spund set up. It's a gas quick disconnect with a regulator. The high pressure side is plugged. The low pressure side is connected to the disconnect. Any pressure over the set point vents through the valve. Tomorrow I'll dial it back to about 15-20psi.
IMG_20190411_233441.jpeg
IMG_20190411_233506.jpeg
 
Last edited:
This fugger is done with carbonation.

20psi @ 63F.

The recommendation is that it's ready to drink in 3 weeks. I will need to kill a keg before I can fit in the fridge.

So what happens first? Beer done aging or an empty slot in the keezer.

I have a 3 tapper... Probably the cider will kick first.

IMG_20190414_203514.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Recapping the pieces left to right.

1) 1/4 NPT Brass plug, screwed into the high pressure side. Using Teflon tape.
2) The regulator and gauge.
3) 1/4 NPT to 3/16 Brass hose barb, screwed into the low pressure side. Using Teflon tape.
4) 3/16 Hose about 12" long, attached with hose clamp (on both ends).
5) 3/16 barb to 1/4 Female Flare Swivel.
6) Quick Disconnect ball-lock that has 1/4 flare.
IMG_20190414_212300.jpeg
 
Copied from, "What I did for beer today" thread.

The spund is typically with a set point to vent. This is a regulator with the quick disconnect on the low pressure side. The high side is plugged. The over pressure CO2 vents via the regulator.

In this case I have it to the max, plan to dial it back once it hits something over 16psi. Typically I preset it with an empty keg that's pressurized. I turn up the gas to 30 psi on my draft CO2. Then connect the spund and dial it back until it vents and the pressure drops, giving it a quarter turn to stop it at my set point. Then I'm ready to put it on a keg to spund beer at that pressure.
 
Last edited:
That looks fantastic! Bubbles seem a bit large, has it had enough time chilling for the CO2 to enter solution?
It had at least 21 days under spunding at 68-72. It's been chilled only since Monday. Didn't think of longer chilling. So maybe no.


Might have been a mistake to tap it early ...
 
I bottled my latest batch of Hefeweizen last night. Since we're moving in a few days and the white sugar was already packed I used DME and calculated the amount to produce 4 volumes in my 5.9 gallons of finished beer. This morning I realized that the 5.9 was measured in the fermenter and didn't account for trub losses, so i may have over-primed. It was all packaged in brand new 22oz bombers, I hope they are up to the task :(
 
It is good to see that the yeast seems to be working perfectly well. I need to brew this type of beer during summer. I'll be brewing a batch of red ale soon and when it is bottled, I'll try Schneidder TAP7 clone. I suspect that you did not use any chocolate malt. Based on the color of your brew vs Schenider TAP7 I think I'll be using max. 1% german chocolate malt as Drexler describes in the link above.
 
Last edited:
It is good to see that the yeast seems to be working perfectly well. I need to brew this type of beer during summer. I'll be brewing a batch of red ale soon and when it is bottled, I'll try Schneidder TAP7 clone. I suspect that you did not use any chocolate malt. Based on the color of your brew vs Schenider TAP7 I think I'll be using max. 1% german chocolate malt as Drexler describes in the link above.
I didn't. I used Pilsner and Wheat for malt.
 
Cool. I harvested some Schneider yeast a while back. Going to wake it up again next month and brew a type of white IPA. Here in Germany the home brewers are using it for that a lot. Its actually a with oat, pilsner and wheat malt and citra, simcoe, cascade. In case you want to do something different with the yeast later.
 
This finally worked. Using Schneider & Sohn Dregs.

Original Gravity was 1.042 in the starter. This cranked down to 1.004.

Cheers!

I think my previous attempt was too old. It never really took off like this one.
IMG_20190605_063224.jpeg
 
This is my Cultured Schneider & Sohn yeast strain chugging away....

I'm fermenting a Schlenkerla Weizen Rauchbier with this. Using Pistachio Shell Rauchmalt.

Deleted due dead YouTube link..... Will replace.

 
Last edited:
This stuff is done already!!!

I pitched a 1-qrt starter at 2AM Tuesday Morning. Now at 7:30AM Wednesday it's stopped.

It was really chugging yesterday.
 
Thanks for posting this. I'm brewing my first Weizen beer tomorrow. Similar grain bill but just a little different (5 lbs. white wheat malt, 3 lbs 2 row, 1 lb rye malt).

I'm going to follow the temp steps. I'll report back once it's bottle conditioned.
 
Thanks for posting this. I'm brewing my first Weizen beer tomorrow. Similar grain bill but just a little different (5 lbs. white wheat malt, 3 lbs 2 row, 1 lb rye malt).

I'm going to follow the temp steps. I'll report back once it's bottle conditioned.
Severely late in asking....

How was it?
 
Severely late in asking....

How was it?

At first I thought it was ok, a little bit sour tasting but ok. The more I drank the more I disliked it. Toward the end I was mixing it 50/50 with other beer.

I'm planning to do another wheat beer this summer. This time it will use malted red wheat, pilsen malt, and a different yeast. Probably the dry Munich that is always recommended.

However, I continue to step mash. It started with this thread and I've kept doing it. I usually only use 3 temps but I have something that works repeatedly.
 
At first I thought it was ok, a little bit sour tasting but ok. The more I drank the more I disliked it. Toward the end I was mixing it 50/50 with other beer.

I'm planning to do another wheat beer this summer. This time it will use malted red wheat, pilsen malt, and a different yeast. Probably the dry Munich that is always recommended.

However, I continue to step mash. It started with this thread and I've kept doing it. I usually only use 3 temps but I have something that works repeatedly.
To bad on the beer....

...but great on the step mashing!
 
So two months ago I followed the multi step mash temps the with my RIMS system. I added two decoctions to get it from the first protein rest to the second and then to the second sacc. I am a firm believer in decoctions for German beer.

note..I have always struggled to get my Hefeweizens right..they always lack body, head retention and the nice fruity esters.

I decided not to use my conical since I read somewhere on German brewing forum that conicals decrease ester production by 30%

So anyways...used my Chapman bucket for fermentation. I did an open fermentation once bubbles started appearing in the air lock. Unfortunately my WLP 300 yeast was old and forgot to get a starter going the days before.... and fermentation stalled and I had to rescue with a second pitch.

finally got a gravity of 1014 and kegged

initially the esters were overwhelming and almost had an apple flavor to it..I was worried it had gotten infected actually

decided to let it sit in the fridge for a month... and by God it was the best hefe I have made yet...but not the best it could be..I blame the weak yeast

it had perfect head retention, wonderful creamy mouthfeel and subtle esters..
through there was a slight bitterness that never quiet left.

I just kegged the second attempt at this with a small starter to make sure my yeasties we're ready to get to work....wow it smelled wonderful going into keg. the body was perfect on my initial taste. I also made sure to scoop off the krausen.

gonna let it sit in the keg for two weeks at 50 degrees and will check back in.

I am now a firm believer that to make a true Hefeweizens...the multi step mash is key with decoctions. the mouthfeel and body is right on and I never had to worry about a stuck mash.

let's hope the fermentation does not leave me wanting.
 
Recently I did a hef with my first decoction and I was super disappointed... it seemed to make barely any difference at all. The final product still lacks to malty character I have been trying to find. I did about 1.75 qt of the mash for about a 10 minute boil... maybe I gotta do more, and/or boil it harder?
 
(This is all anecdotal....!!!)
Although i am a hop head and love any beer, German wheat beers have always been a favorite of mine. I do love great ipa's tho.
I usually brew 2 batches at a time. An ipa of some sort and a hefe.
My best beers (imo) are always my hefe's...
I can do a multi-step mash.
I can play with the ingredients a bit (i usually do each batch) and still get decent results.
I think this is because i have a brewie machine (got it super cheap) and this thing can do fairly precise programmable (and repeatable) step mashes. On the hot side i think this is really a key between most homebrew and commercial brews- precise temp control (just like it is on cold side).
I usually ferment both batches i brew side by side- the ipa gets the temp control conical. The hefe gets a non-temp conical (a cornical from blichmann. I was uniformed when i bought).
The hefe always beats my ipa imo.

Anyways... absolutely no point to this story other than yes step mashes rock!! Especially with wheat malt.
 
Recently I did a hef with my first decoction and I was super disappointed... it seemed to make barely any difference at all. The final product still lacks to malty character I have been trying to find. I did about 1.75 qt of the mash for about a 10 minute boil... maybe I gotta do more, and/or boil it harder?


if your doing a 5 gallon batch that sounds like you are not boiling enough mash

I usually do about a 1/4 to 1/3 of the volume of my mash. I've read traditionally it's up to 1/3rd.

I also make sure the first one is more grist than liquid.

hope that helps.
 
Thanks, I will try that. I was following decoction instructions that were intended to hit a particular temperature change, but it sure seems that if you are most interested in a flavor change you sure might need to use more mash. I'll try 1/3 volume next time.
 
Back
Top