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This batch is probably elsewhere in the world too...not sure they're malting a lot of this stuff.

High protein (13.8%),
The commercial revival started off as literally one field, I think they're up to one farm's worth now.

It's from 2020 harvest I notice.
COVID must have got to it
As soon as I saw "high nitrogen" - 2.19% in this case - I assumed we must be talking about the 2020 harvest, which was notorious for high nitrogen, at least in England, less so in Scotland. Fortunately it coincided with reduced demand for beer, so it didn't matter so much that so much was out of spec (and they ended up tweaking the specs for that year, it was such a general problem).
 
After experimenting with bitters and AK for a while I am leaning towards more chloride and less sulfate. That zing isn't doing it for me either. And my visit to Yorkshire last summer drinking lots of Landlord and Black Sheep didn't convince me otherwise. I could be wrong. But my more recent brew with a higher chloride to sulfate ratio was more to my liking. I have to bump them all up to get to the proper calcium level @Northern_Brewer recommended to aid clarity (and I have modified my water that way in the past--but more with gypsum) but I'm going to try less sulfate for now.

Yes, yes, and yes again!

Sulphate and chloride levels in have a huge range in British ales. Landlord does contain more chloride than sulphate in the finished product, but it isn't an average beer as all who ever drank a good pint will acknowledge. The crux of this matter is the calcium content which almost inevitably will average somewhere between 100 and 200 ppm, sometimes more and rarely less. Alkalinity in the majority of breweries will be reduced using sulphuric and/or hydrochloric acid to replace carbonate anions with sulphate, chloride or both. The result is inevitably high levels of either or both sulphate and chloride. Phosphoric acid is not normally used to reduce alkalinity by traditional British brewers, but possibly is used by new breweries to replicate American ale styles.

British breweries with soft water won't necessarily brew with less calcium than those in hard water areas. Before 1880 beer duty was paid through Malt Tax and water treatment that increased extraction was seen as tax evasion. Then many London breweries either started brewing in Burton or had water from Burton-on-Trent brought to their breweries in London. After Malt Tax was replaced by the extract achieved in the mash tun, water treatment was allowed as it did not evade tax and all London Brewers except Truman's left Burton to treat their London water.
 
The commercial revival started off as literally one field, I think they're up to one farm's worth now.


As soon as I saw "high nitrogen" - 2.19% in this case - I assumed we must be talking about the 2020 harvest, which was notorious for high nitrogen, at least in England, less so in Scotland. Fortunately it coincided with reduced demand for beer, so it didn't matter so much that so much was out of spec (and they ended up tweaking the specs for that year, it was such a general problem).
I assumed the root cause was growing challenges (probably one reason Chevallier was discontinued prior to revival).

However, I wanted to point this out as this lot of malt is much different than previous lots. Higher color means this malt will almost certainly taste different, and low DP may have an impact during mashing.
 
I assumed the root cause was growing challenges (probably one reason Chevallier was discontinued prior to revival).

However, I wanted to point this out as this lot of malt is much different than previous lots. Higher color means this malt will almost certainly taste different, and low DP may have an impact during mashing.
So a step mash with a protein rest @ 120F would be in order? I’m about to do a series of three British beers, each using Chevalier. Fortunately I planned the recipes to split the base malt amounts equally between Chevalier and Maris Otter. I also have some high DP brewers malt on hand and could toss in a few handfuls to boost the enzymes I suppose.

On a semi-related note, I saw a recent news broadcast that was focusing on vineyards in Bordeaux that were acquiring large tracts of land in Central England. They are transplanting many varietals due to falling yields in France. The suspected culprit is climate change and rising temperatures in the Loire Valley. Could this also be affecting barley and other grain yields in England?
 
Hello,

Cire recently invited me to the forum and pointed me in the direction of this thread. I'm the bloke in NZ that McMullan (very kindly) sent Harvey's yeast to. I'm very happy to send some on to you DuncB if you'd like to try it too. Is there a way to send a PM on this forum? If so drop me a line and we can work something out (I'm based in Northland).

I recently did a comparison of wort fermented with the Harvey's strain roused vs. 'un-roused'. The results of this simple comparison were far from definitive but may still be of interest (see abridged notes below). My impression currently (based on little experience with the strain), is that rousing is important in encouraging a timely, healthy fermentation and reducing/limiting phenolic character. I don't know if phenols increase with yeast stress, but if so, I think rousing would reduce stress on this powdery strain and keep it ticking over.

Notes:

At least three features of the Harvey's culture have been theorized as causing problems in the home brewery: 1) the culture comprised of two Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains plus a latent strain of Debaryomyces hansenii, each of which might behave differently across home brewing environs/worts; 2) the culture originating from the Yorkshire square family of 'Saison-like' strains, requiring regular re-circulation/rousing; and 3) it's phenolic character.

Concerning point 1, the putative 'multi-strain' composition of the Harvey's culture has been contested (Personal Comm.). After plating the Harvey's culture on malt/agar and WLN media, I detected only one colony morphology. However my dilution of yeast cultures and plating techniques are both poor.

A photo of a typical colony of the Harvey's strain, grown on wort/gelatin media:

View attachment 748248


An article regarding the 'multi strain' character of Harvey's yeast described a single strain originally sourced from John Smiths, that after serial re-pitching contained two genetically identical 'strain's' plus Debaryomyces hansenii (See: https://www.beervanablog.com/beervana/2 ... 892_30493=). However the article also described the ratio of the two 'strains' changing with no or very little perceived impact on the fermentation or flavour profile of the resulting beer. I interpreted this as possibly indicative of the type of mutation found in single strain cultures when serially re-pitched, as described by McMullan (Personal Comm.). In contrast I was able to identify two strains of yeast in a sample from another regional UK brewery, each of which exhibited different morphology, brewing behaviour and flavour. In essence, the Harvey's yeast for most practical purposes could be treated as single-strain.

Regarding points 2 (Yorkshire yeast), and 3 (phenolic character), Northern Brewer has commented that:


Inspired by McMullan's Yorkshire Square setup I prepared two fermenters: one with a re-circulation loop including spreader plate/makeshift 'fish tail' and timed pump, and the 2nd a standard s/s bucket in a temperature controlled fridge. The former fermenter included a s/s coil plumbed into a circuit with a pump, under-bar chiller and STC1000 controller. A heat pad was also attached to the STC1000 unit.

View attachment 748253

A single gyle of 'Harvey's-esque' bitter was brewed using a recipe adapted from a photograph of Harvey's Log book for their Best Bitter, brewed on the 4th November 2004.

GW's 'bitter' liquor profile was used alongside Gladfield malts and home made invert sugar. On propagating the yeast from a slant, I observed it was flocculant but produced a very powdery sediment. The powdery sediment combined with good flocculation resulted in a film of yeast settling on any surface immersed in the wort, if the sediment/wort was agitated then given a few minutes to settle. This behaviour would possibly suit a Yorkshire square or Burton union type arrangement where the wort was pumped or encouraged up onto a flat, draining surface such as an upper deck/trough. In this comparison I did not attempt to separate the yeast from the wort in this manner, and simply top cropped using my usual regime (after approx 48 hours, once every 24 hours for 3 total top crops). Under the microscope the cells were even and circular, but appeared to be smaller than I am used to seeing. I don't have a means of measuring the size of cells under the microscope, so my visual assessment is subjective. Abbreviated brew notes are below:

A small amount of Gladfield Dark Chocolate malt was added to tweak the colour in place of the coloured priming sugar or caramel possibly used at the brewery (Personal Communication, b).

Liqour: aiming for a variation on Graham Wheeler's Bitter profile

Ca: 170
S04 273
Cl 137.9
Predicted pH (Brew N Water): 5.1

Total Liqour: 77L

Mash: 16L:
CaSo4: 7.8g
CaCl2: 4.2g

Sparge: 0.7ml lactic acid

Boil:
CaSo4: 29.9g
CaCl2: 15.9g

Didn't quite have enough invert No.3 so made up the difference with No.1 (approx. 1/3rd invert No.1 or 200g).

Fermentation regime: Set up a remote timer to start re-circulation after 24 hours post pitch. Unfortunately the timer only works in 15min intervals, so the re-circulation continued for longer than reported on the net for commercial breweries (between 5 and 10 minutes). When lifting the lid during re-circulation there was a lot of perceived CO2 above the beer being released. Not sure how/if the presence of the lid will have affected the results of re-circulation (i.e. possibly trapping more co2 above the beer than if the fermenter was truly 'open'. Initially I thought the regime should run from 24 hours post pitch to 36 hours post pitch, so I stopped re-circulation over night (e.g. after 12 hours of the cycle). However, later I read that re-circulation continues over a period of 36 hours (rather than from the point of pitching the yeast), so I restarted the program for an additional 12 hours (total period of re-circulation = 36 hours ignoring the 8-9 hours 'interruption' when I turned off the timer/pump). FV#2 was left undisturbed.

Sunday 19th: Took a gravity reading and small taste sample from both FV. FV#1 - light esters, very faint, almost imperceptible phenols, quite 'light' and almost clean but with a yeasty bite/aftertaste. Gravity at 1.010. FV#2 is much sweeter, pleasant, no yeast taint but phenols are more pronounced (but actually pleasant). Gravity 1.020. Started dropping temp in FV#1 to 19.5c, then 18c, then straight to 10c over 24 hours.

23/09/2021: Casked FV#1 beer with 15g fuggle dry hop, 23g table sugar and 24ml of Super S. Beer quite cloudy with yeast going into the pin. Much cloudier than I would like but no yeast bite as before. Quite a sweet flavour with some light esters, very light phenols, but generally quite 'clean' tasting. FV#2 fermenter at 19c so crashed it to 10. A taste comparison of beer from FV#2 showed increased phenols compared to FV#1 to the point that FV#2 beer could pass as 'Belgian'. Not unpleasant though, just not what you might expect for a bitter. The rousing does indeed seem to reduce the perception of phenols in the beer and also increase fermentation speed.

30/09/21: Tapped the roused version. Good clarity although not 'polished'. Reasonable head that fades leaving some lacing down the glass. Light hoppy aroma, some ripe fruit esters, very subtle phenols. Flavour is ripe fruit, light malt and hops, very subtle phenolic (more of a background subtle spice note). Very easy drinking. Light bodied but not watery. Reminds me of Harvey's best bitter but could do with an additional week conditioning to 'round out' the flavours. Drinks as a bit thin/green at the moment and could do with a little bit more sweet/mouth feel which I think will come in a week. Pleased with the phenol expression though - seems appropriate given my memory of Harvey's. Certainly quite subtle but present. Tastes like British beer (not Belgian).

06/10/2021: Pulled a pint. Lovely, subtle orangy, marmelaide hoppy notes on the nose (probably from the Pacifica hops used in place of Golding). Good frothy white head that laces the glass. Good clarity and colour, if a little pale for Harveys (lack of invert No.3, caramel). Mouthfeel is light with gentle carbonation, Notes of pear, and melon, some bitter citrus peel, perhaps some phenolic spice, but the latter is a very subtle background note that blends with the ester profile to create a superior flavour rather than being perceived as a flaw. Dry finish that leaves a pleasing malt and hops aftertaste that encourages another sip. Very nice beer. The finish is perhaps a little dry and I would like to brew it again perhaps with a less vigorous rousing regime, but altogether very nice indeed.

14/10/2021: Currently drinking pin#2 after tapping it last week. Very pleasant bitter beer. Nice loose head with good retention and light lacing down the glass. Flavour is more full bodied than the roused version, good malt and hops profile, some light fruity esters and a balanced, light, phenolic note that isn't intrusive. To be honest the phenolic note doesn't seem any more present than the roused version. Of the two beers, this is definitely the better. However I think a 'light, rouse' of perhaps 5 mins max duration at 48 hours would be beneficial to make sure the yeast does it's job (given it is so powdery). Subsequent 5 minute rousing may also be beneficial, but I can't draw conclusions about the appropriateness of that regime based on current observations. So far, from the one brewing attempt with this strain, it seems a really nice yeast and not problematic at all. I wonder if this is down to the microbiological skills of McMullan who supplied a very healthy, robust yeast than propagates well. Another explanation might be cask conditioning: this beer tastes like a traditional cask conditioned ale. Perhaps in bottle or keg form the very light phenolic nature seems more intrusive?

19/10/2021: Excellent beer. Medium bodied which seems perfectly balanced - not too heavy but also with a pleasing quality. The esters and (very light) background phenolic note are in perfect balance with the malt and hop profile which shine through cleanly. A very pleasant and easy drinking pint.

The results of this comparison may have been shaped by my use of pure O2 at a rate of 1 L/P/M for 90 seconds. This may have reduced the perceived impact of rousing compared to wort simply aerated via transfer from a height into the FV. During the first rouse I perceived a high concentration of CO2 (nasal/aroma assessment) above the beer, but this had dropped off quite noticeably during the 2nd rouse. The results obtained here may also have been shaped by the skill of McMullan in propagating a very healthy culture.

In summary, my impressions of this culture after using it ONCE, are that it produces a very pleasant UK style bitter beer with good hops and malt profile, subtle esters and a very light, almost imperceptible phenolic character that blends well with the ester character. Just like the commercial Harvey's bitter I suspect the phenolic character varies with the age, handling, and other factors affecting the condition of the beer. Nevertheless neither beer (whether roused or left to ferment undisturbed) was overly phenolic in this single comparison. I would like to brew more with this yeast and get to know it better.

View attachment 748261
Hi Fuggledog,
I'm just about to get some Harvey's yeast and would be keen to try and emulate some of what you did in your comparison. Any chance you could share your recipe please and/or the photo of Harvey's logbook? Thanks
 
Hello,

Cire recently invited me to the forum and pointed me in the direction of this thread. I'm the bloke in NZ that McMullan (very kindly) sent Harvey's yeast to. I'm very happy to send some on to you DuncB if you'd like to try it too. Is there a way to send a PM on this forum? If so drop me a line and we can work something out (I'm based in Northland).

I recently did a comparison of wort fermented with the Harvey's strain roused vs. 'un-roused'. The results of this simple comparison were far from definitive but may still be of interest (see abridged notes below). My impression currently (based on little experience with the strain), is that rousing is important in encouraging a timely, healthy fermentation and reducing/limiting phenolic character. I don't know if phenols increase with yeast stress, but if so, I think rousing would reduce stress on this powdery strain and keep it ticking over.

Notes:

At least three features of the Harvey's culture have been theorized as causing problems in the home brewery: 1) the culture comprised of two Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains plus a latent strain of Debaryomyces hansenii, each of which might behave differently across home brewing environs/worts; 2) the culture originating from the Yorkshire square family of 'Saison-like' strains, requiring regular re-circulation/rousing; and 3) it's phenolic character.

Concerning point 1, the putative 'multi-strain' composition of the Harvey's culture has been contested (Personal Comm.). After plating the Harvey's culture on malt/agar and WLN media, I detected only one colony morphology. However my dilution of yeast cultures and plating techniques are both poor.

A photo of a typical colony of the Harvey's strain, grown on wort/gelatin media:

View attachment 748248


An article regarding the 'multi strain' character of Harvey's yeast described a single strain originally sourced from John Smiths, that after serial re-pitching contained two genetically identical 'strain's' plus Debaryomyces hansenii (See: https://www.beervanablog.com/beervana/2 ... 892_30493=). However the article also described the ratio of the two 'strains' changing with no or very little perceived impact on the fermentation or flavour profile of the resulting beer. I interpreted this as possibly indicative of the type of mutation found in single strain cultures when serially re-pitched, as described by McMullan (Personal Comm.). In contrast I was able to identify two strains of yeast in a sample from another regional UK brewery, each of which exhibited different morphology, brewing behaviour and flavour. In essence, the Harvey's yeast for most practical purposes could be treated as single-strain.

Regarding points 2 (Yorkshire yeast), and 3 (phenolic character), Northern Brewer has commented that:


Inspired by McMullan's Yorkshire Square setup I prepared two fermenters: one with a re-circulation loop including spreader plate/makeshift 'fish tail' and timed pump, and the 2nd a standard s/s bucket in a temperature controlled fridge. The former fermenter included a s/s coil plumbed into a circuit with a pump, under-bar chiller and STC1000 controller. A heat pad was also attached to the STC1000 unit.

View attachment 748253

A single gyle of 'Harvey's-esque' bitter was brewed using a recipe adapted from a photograph of Harvey's Log book for their Best Bitter, brewed on the 4th November 2004.

GW's 'bitter' liquor profile was used alongside Gladfield malts and home made invert sugar. On propagating the yeast from a slant, I observed it was flocculant but produced a very powdery sediment. The powdery sediment combined with good flocculation resulted in a film of yeast settling on any surface immersed in the wort, if the sediment/wort was agitated then given a few minutes to settle. This behaviour would possibly suit a Yorkshire square or Burton union type arrangement where the wort was pumped or encouraged up onto a flat, draining surface such as an upper deck/trough. In this comparison I did not attempt to separate the yeast from the wort in this manner, and simply top cropped using my usual regime (after approx 48 hours, once every 24 hours for 3 total top crops). Under the microscope the cells were even and circular, but appeared to be smaller than I am used to seeing. I don't have a means of measuring the size of cells under the microscope, so my visual assessment is subjective. Abbreviated brew notes are below:

A small amount of Gladfield Dark Chocolate malt was added to tweak the colour in place of the coloured priming sugar or caramel possibly used at the brewery (Personal Communication, b).

Liqour: aiming for a variation on Graham Wheeler's Bitter profile

Ca: 170
S04 273
Cl 137.9
Predicted pH (Brew N Water): 5.1

Total Liqour: 77L

Mash: 16L:
CaSo4: 7.8g
CaCl2: 4.2g

Sparge: 0.7ml lactic acid

Boil:
CaSo4: 29.9g
CaCl2: 15.9g

Didn't quite have enough invert No.3 so made up the difference with No.1 (approx. 1/3rd invert No.1 or 200g).

Fermentation regime: Set up a remote timer to start re-circulation after 24 hours post pitch. Unfortunately the timer only works in 15min intervals, so the re-circulation continued for longer than reported on the net for commercial breweries (between 5 and 10 minutes). When lifting the lid during re-circulation there was a lot of perceived CO2 above the beer being released. Not sure how/if the presence of the lid will have affected the results of re-circulation (i.e. possibly trapping more co2 above the beer than if the fermenter was truly 'open'. Initially I thought the regime should run from 24 hours post pitch to 36 hours post pitch, so I stopped re-circulation over night (e.g. after 12 hours of the cycle). However, later I read that re-circulation continues over a period of 36 hours (rather than from the point of pitching the yeast), so I restarted the program for an additional 12 hours (total period of re-circulation = 36 hours ignoring the 8-9 hours 'interruption' when I turned off the timer/pump). FV#2 was left undisturbed.

Sunday 19th: Took a gravity reading and small taste sample from both FV. FV#1 - light esters, very faint, almost imperceptible phenols, quite 'light' and almost clean but with a yeasty bite/aftertaste. Gravity at 1.010. FV#2 is much sweeter, pleasant, no yeast taint but phenols are more pronounced (but actually pleasant). Gravity 1.020. Started dropping temp in FV#1 to 19.5c, then 18c, then straight to 10c over 24 hours.

23/09/2021: Casked FV#1 beer with 15g fuggle dry hop, 23g table sugar and 24ml of Super S. Beer quite cloudy with yeast going into the pin. Much cloudier than I would like but no yeast bite as before. Quite a sweet flavour with some light esters, very light phenols, but generally quite 'clean' tasting. FV#2 fermenter at 19c so crashed it to 10. A taste comparison of beer from FV#2 showed increased phenols compared to FV#1 to the point that FV#2 beer could pass as 'Belgian'. Not unpleasant though, just not what you might expect for a bitter. The rousing does indeed seem to reduce the perception of phenols in the beer and also increase fermentation speed.

30/09/21: Tapped the roused version. Good clarity although not 'polished'. Reasonable head that fades leaving some lacing down the glass. Light hoppy aroma, some ripe fruit esters, very subtle phenols. Flavour is ripe fruit, light malt and hops, very subtle phenolic (more of a background subtle spice note). Very easy drinking. Light bodied but not watery. Reminds me of Harvey's best bitter but could do with an additional week conditioning to 'round out' the flavours. Drinks as a bit thin/green at the moment and could do with a little bit more sweet/mouth feel which I think will come in a week. Pleased with the phenol expression though - seems appropriate given my memory of Harvey's. Certainly quite subtle but present. Tastes like British beer (not Belgian).

06/10/2021: Pulled a pint. Lovely, subtle orangy, marmelaide hoppy notes on the nose (probably from the Pacifica hops used in place of Golding). Good frothy white head that laces the glass. Good clarity and colour, if a little pale for Harveys (lack of invert No.3, caramel). Mouthfeel is light with gentle carbonation, Notes of pear, and melon, some bitter citrus peel, perhaps some phenolic spice, but the latter is a very subtle background note that blends with the ester profile to create a superior flavour rather than being perceived as a flaw. Dry finish that leaves a pleasing malt and hops aftertaste that encourages another sip. Very nice beer. The finish is perhaps a little dry and I would like to brew it again perhaps with a less vigorous rousing regime, but altogether very nice indeed.

14/10/2021: Currently drinking pin#2 after tapping it last week. Very pleasant bitter beer. Nice loose head with good retention and light lacing down the glass. Flavour is more full bodied than the roused version, good malt and hops profile, some light fruity esters and a balanced, light, phenolic note that isn't intrusive. To be honest the phenolic note doesn't seem any more present than the roused version. Of the two beers, this is definitely the better. However I think a 'light, rouse' of perhaps 5 mins max duration at 48 hours would be beneficial to make sure the yeast does it's job (given it is so powdery). Subsequent 5 minute rousing may also be beneficial, but I can't draw conclusions about the appropriateness of that regime based on current observations. So far, from the one brewing attempt with this strain, it seems a really nice yeast and not problematic at all. I wonder if this is down to the microbiological skills of McMullan who supplied a very healthy, robust yeast than propagates well. Another explanation might be cask conditioning: this beer tastes like a traditional cask conditioned ale. Perhaps in bottle or keg form the very light phenolic nature seems more intrusive?

19/10/2021: Excellent beer. Medium bodied which seems perfectly balanced - not too heavy but also with a pleasing quality. The esters and (very light) background phenolic note are in perfect balance with the malt and hop profile which shine through cleanly. A very pleasant and easy drinking pint.

The results of this comparison may have been shaped by my use of pure O2 at a rate of 1 L/P/M for 90 seconds. This may have reduced the perceived impact of rousing compared to wort simply aerated via transfer from a height into the FV. During the first rouse I perceived a high concentration of CO2 (nasal/aroma assessment) above the beer, but this had dropped off quite noticeably during the 2nd rouse. The results obtained here may also have been shaped by the skill of McMullan in propagating a very healthy culture.

In summary, my impressions of this culture after using it ONCE, are that it produces a very pleasant UK style bitter beer with good hops and malt profile, subtle esters and a very light, almost imperceptible phenolic character that blends well with the ester character. Just like the commercial Harvey's bitter I suspect the phenolic character varies with the age, handling, and other factors affecting the condition of the beer. Nevertheless neither beer (whether roused or left to ferment undisturbed) was overly phenolic in this single comparison. I would like to brew more with this yeast and get to know it better.

View attachment 748261
Hi Fuggledog,
I’m about to get some Harvey’s yeast so I would quite like to try to emulate some of what you did in your experiment. Are you happy to share your recipe please or the Harvey’s log book photo? Thanks
 
So a step mash with a protein rest @ 120F would be in order? I’m about to do a series of three British beers, each using Chevalier. Fortunately I planned the recipes to split the base malt amounts equally between Chevalier and Maris Otter. I also have some high DP brewers malt on hand and could toss in a few handfuls to boost the enzymes I suppose.

On a semi-related note, I saw a recent news broadcast that was focusing on vineyards in Bordeaux that were acquiring large tracts of land in Central England. They are transplanting many varietals due to falling yields in France. The suspected culprit is climate change and rising temperatures in the Loire Valley. Could this also be affecting barley and other grain yields in England?
Just to add some highly subjective observations, I wasn't impressed with my recent order of Chevallier at all. I remembered it as being on the sweeter base malt side with lots of crystal malt flavour, without being cloying. Now I got something which is grainy and almost a bit harsh. Much better after aging a few months but still not what I remembered it to be some years ago.
 
Hi Fuggledog,
I’m about to get some Harvey’s yeast so I would quite like to try to emulate some of what you did in your experiment. Are you happy to share your recipe please or the Harvey’s log book photo? Thanks
Just to advise that Fuggledog recently commissioned his newly built commercial brewery, so his current priorities may not be to scan posts on this forum. He previously owned and operated a brewery in North East England close to where I live. His latest venture in New Zealand will produce British style beers with ingredients produced in New Zealand using equipment built by him.
 
Just to advise that Fuggledog recently commissioned his newly built commercial brewery, so his current priorities may not be to scan posts on this forum. He previously owned and operated a brewery in North East England close to where I live. His latest venture in New Zealand will produce British style beers with ingredients produced in New Zealand using equipment built by him.
Thanks for letting me know cire. I assumed he was a serious pro! Good luck Fuggledog in the hope you see this post.
 
Just to add some highly subjective observations, I wasn't impressed with my recent order of Chevallier at all.
Much better after aging a few months
Well no problem with that if the latest they're getting across the pond is 2020!!!!
 
Just to add some highly subjective observations, I wasn't impressed with my recent order of Chevallier at all. I remembered it as being on the sweeter base malt side with lots of crystal malt flavour, without being cloying. Now I got something which is grainy and almost a bit harsh. Much better after aging a few months but still not what I remembered it to be some years ago.
Aarrrrrgghhh. Now I’ve got 25# of it, and questioning whether I should mash or punt. Hopefully all will turn out well with 50/50% Maris or Golden Promise, supplemented by a dash of high diastatic distiller’s malt. I think I’ve convinced myself to do a protein rest in case the Kolbach indices are too far off for this batch of grain, plus a longer sacc. rest for the Beta amylase to do its thing. Thoughts and prayers solicited.
 
Aarrrrrgghhh. Now I’ve got 25# of it, and questioning whether I should mash or punt. Hopefully all will turn out well with 50/50% Maris or Golden Promise, supplemented by a dash of high diastatic distiller’s malt. I think I’ve convinced myself to do a protein rest in case the Kolbach indices are too far off for this batch of grain, plus a longer sacc. rest for the Beta amylase to do its thing. Thoughts and prayers solicited.
This malt will always shine in a long aged beer. Everything barley wine, old school UK IPA, brett something, big stouts will greatly benefit from this grain. Just use it in the right beer!
 
Saw that Black Sheep is in danger of closing down.
If you have access to their stuff better stock up on some BS Ale and Riggwelter...
Looks like there's little danger of them closing down - they're entering administration (sort of like Chapter 11 in the US) but apparently are in "6-7 conversations" all of which are about keeping brewing in Masham so I'd say the odds are pretty good.

However, it's maybe not looking so good for Brew By Numbers and Brick who are also on their way out, partly thanks to the new private equity owners of Britain's railway arches raising rents.
 
Brew by numbers have moved their brewery from the Bermondsey arches to North Greenwich. I went there last year and had a conversation with their American head brewer great guy. Let’s hope they stay trading.
 
Speaking of Fullers , ventured out to the area English Pub today for some inspiration
 

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Anybody got any input on some experimental "cask"(keg) hopping?
My MO so far has been to just chuck any dry hops in with the yeast in the fermenter, but I am gonna brew a TT LL inspired summer bitter coming weekend.
Thought to add them with the priming sugar in the keg instead, 15g for ~19L, such a small amount should not get me any hopcreep right?
And since I let the beer cool condition for 5-7 days in the keg fridge before drinking from it the hops should settle with the yeast and proteins?
 
Anybody got any input on some experimental "cask"(keg) hopping?
Yes, I've done it a few times.

Thought to add them with the priming sugar in the keg instead, 15g for ~19L, such a small amount should not get me any hopcreep right?
At this sort of low level I'd not be bothered about hop creep, especially if you're leaving it for a while to naturally carbonate. Anything the yeast does to the hops is going to be a pretty small contributor compared to the priming sugar.

And since I let the beer cool condition for 5-7 days in the keg fridge before drinking from it the hops should settle with the yeast and proteins?
Yes, though I'd caution that unless you're using something to contain the hops (either a mesh bag or a keg hopping filter, I've got a few I use), you run the risk of blocking your dip tube. Though, again, at 15g I wouldn't be too worried about this.
 
Waiting for the boil in a simple sort of Landlord inspired summer-bitter.
GP, 8% wheat malt, 10% invert 2, 7ml/20L caramel colouring. OG 1.040 35 IBU.
EKG and Fuggle 15g each 20 min and 10/5 g EKG/Fuggle dry hop in the keg.
Will likely come out like a slightly darker Czech Pils.
 

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Waiting for the boil in a simple sort of Landlord inspired summer-bitter.
GP, 8% wheat malt, 10% invert 2, 7ml/20L caramel colouring. OG 1.040 35 IBU.
EKG and Fuggle 15g each 20 min and 10/5 g EKG/Fuggle dry hop in the keg.
Will likely come out like a slightly darker Czech Pils.
Sounds perfect to me! A bit dark, but who cares. :D

Which yeast?
 
Well, if you remember the guy here (me) that occasionally asks about the rye / earthy flavor in their ESB inspired beers - I brewed this time with 100% First Gold (no EKG) and I still have the flavor, strong as ever.

I've done binary tests of:
* Victory malt, present vs not present
* Maris Otter vs Pale base malts
* 100% EKG vs 100% First Gold hops
* Wyeast, White Labs, and Imperial yeast brands (but, all are the similar 1968 / Pub strains, hmm)

Sigh. Tired of not enjoying these brews as much as I have hoped to.

I use 1/4 lb of the Crystal DRC (Simpsons Double Roasted Crystal) in each 3 gallon batch. That's about the only thing I haven't tried omitting yet. Does that make sense to anyone that it could be from that?
 
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Got paid today, celebrated it by ordering a sack of Chevalier.
Got some historic ales to brew during the summer and autumn, namely a 1898 Hancock XX and 1885 Kirkstall L.
Gonna look in the book Bitter! Aswell for some late victorian pale ale/bitter recipes that look nice.
 
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Between you and @Miraculix posts on British beers, I’m really getting psyched about my upcoming brew sessions. Chevalier and Maris are waiting to go along with fresh Fuggles, EKG, First Gold, Northdown and Challenger. Planning an Ordinary Bitter, a Best Bitter, a Golden Ale, an AK and an Irish Red, all in quick succession after we return home.

Don’t want to leave the ‘Grands, but I’m itchin’ to fire up the brew pot. So little time….
 
You might want to raise your aspirations, jus' sayin'

:p
Oh, these are just the first five! Many more beers will follow. Still trying to master the German Helles. Then a cold IPA and a Timbo Pils. Will likely also brew a few of my favorites to boot. Already have a Kolsch and an Alt conditioning in the brew fridge, so this year will be quite ambitious.
 
This weekend, I got inspired for the first time all year. Knocked out the Machine House Mild clone, an American Blonde, and then partigyled the grain from both for a 1030 vaguely English session ale with Notty. My eldest kid has really gotten into foraging, so have a jar full of spruce tips tincturing away in vodka to "spruce" up the session ale next week.

Oh, and I finally bottled a white wine from a kit that has been sitting in the fermenter for months on oak, and bottled half the sake that has been lagering for a while in the fridge. Going to add in bentonite to clear the second half.
 
This weekend, I got inspired for the first time all year. Knocked out the Machine House Mild clone, an American Blonde, and then partigyled the grain from both for a 1030 vaguely English session ale with Notty. My eldest kid has really gotten into foraging, so have a jar full of spruce tips tincturing away in vodka to "spruce" up the session ale next week.

Oh, and I finally bottled a white wine from a kit that has been sitting in the fermenter for months on oak, and bottled half the sake that has been lagering for a while in the fridge. Going to add in bentonite to clear the second half.
You are making me thirsty.

Can you point me to the machine house mild clone please?
 
Brewed 5 gals of my " Dobby the house Bitter" last night ... first brewday with my son helping 👍
This is a recipe I've been working on a gallon at a time for a while now . Hope it comes out as expected . Of all the recipes I've worked up over the last year this is my sons favorite . I'll post it once I am confident in it's repeatability . after all this thread is a "favorite recipe" thread ... don't see to many lately ... maybe it's time for ya'll to post up those favorites you've been tweaking to perfection ?
 
Brewed 5 gals of my " Dobby the house Bitter" last night ... first brewday with my son helping 👍
This is a recipe I've been working on a gallon at a time for a while now . Hope it comes out as expected . Of all the recipes I've worked up over the last year this is my sons favorite . I'll post it once I am confident in it's repeatability . after all this thread is a "favorite recipe" thread ... don't see to many lately ... maybe it's time for ya'll to post up those favorites you've been tweaking to perfection ?
Agreed, too much of brew log type of posts and too little favourite recipes! 😄
 
Can you point me to the machine house mild clone please?
Here you go with both the recipe from the brewer plus highlights from a couple of conversations. It is a crackin' fine brewski. Since it is on cask, the taste can very from pretty dang good to superlative. The homebrew version is pretty much equivalent. I think the trick is to actually use the Bairds specialty malts, which are available in the US from More Beer.

Machine House is waiting on some permits. IIRC, they have to move out by June 15, and the new place should be ready by then.

Again, standing invitation to anyone visiting Seattle, if schedules align, I am happy to pour a few pints down your neck. :D
 
I've got a favourite I brewed recently:
GP as base
3.5% Simpson Dark Crystal
5% Simpson Wheat Malt
10% invert 2
I used 7ml of Brouwlands ~10000ebc caramel colour, next time I will likely go with about 1% of the total grist weight in black malt in the sparge for a deeper copper/amber hue.
Mash 67/60 min
Boil 90 min
Challenger for bittering
Ekg/ Bramling X @20 min 15g each
Dry hop EKG/ Bramling X 10/5g
20L batch 83% efficiency.

OG 1.040 FG 1.007 35 IBU
I am moving away from actually inverting the sugar and just used a mix of 50% white refined cane sugar and the other half split 50/50 Billingtons demerara and light muscovado.
I use a house mix of Brewly English and MJ m42. Ferment this with a characterfull English yeast, preferably a mix with one for attenuation and one for character.
No airlock and lid loosely fitted for the first days until fermentation slows down.
Aim for high attenuation.

This is a good base recipe for a Northern bitter I've done a few times but with different hops between the brews.
 
Here you go with both the recipe from the brewer plus highlights from a couple of conversations. It is a crackin' fine brewski. Since it is on cask, the taste can very from pretty dang good to superlative. The homebrew version is pretty much equivalent. I think the trick is to actually use the Bairds specialty malts, which are available in the US from More Beer.

Machine House is waiting on some permits. IIRC, they have to move out by June 15, and the new place should be ready by then.

Again, standing invitation to anyone visiting Seattle, if schedules align, I am happy to pour a few pints down your neck. :D
Coming to Portland in June, 2.5+ hr away, prolly won't have the time to make the trip.
 
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