bierhaus15
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It's a great beer though, has sweetness, dryness, enough bitterness and lightness all in one glass. very moreish
Nice. Have you tried the mild?
It's a great beer though, has sweetness, dryness, enough bitterness and lightness all in one glass. very moreish
Sulfur but no clove from the wlp037?@HTH1975 very interesting and informative posts.
Like @ong, I recently got the WL37 Yorkshire Square yeast from the Vault release. Made a 25 liter batch of Ron Pattisons 1939 Boddington Mild and split with WL37, Wyeast1469 W Yorkie, and Notty (my go to for things English). The Yorkie Square had sulfur odor (that has faded). Weird, the Notty was spot on OG FG, the Yorkie Sq finished at very low at 1006, and the W Yorkie high at 1012. All in my garage at ~60F. Anyhoo, bottling tonight and should be ready to sample in 2 weeks when I'm back from a biz trip to China.
I love this thread!
On the pilot kit as well? Isn’t that meant to be one of the main differences when scaling up, you need to go a bit warmer to get the esters that are otherwise suppressed by the greater hydrostatic pressure?
You’re not the first I’ve heard of fermenting up to 24C, but I believe Marstons still do an old school free rise from ?16C going into the unions. Suspect we’re back to the issue of phenolics from British yeast.
Nice. Have you tried the mild?
I made a poorly educated American's attempt at an ESB (a style that doesn't even exist, apparently!)
If anyone has ever made it, you can rest assured that it exists. An organization that has merely self proclaimed itself to be the premier authority on beer styles may claim to not recognize it, but that is a far cry from stating that it does not exist.
It’s more the other way round, the self-proclaimed organisation claimed that ESB was a style when nobody in Britain regards it as a style. I can say I’m the definitive expert on national anthems and that God Save The Queen is the national anthem of the US - but I rather think that it’s for USians to make that call.
I travel to Wales on the train a couple of times a year and Bathams is the one reason why I enjoy an otherwise tiresome journey, as I have to change trains at Wolverhampton and there is a pub ( The Great Western) near the station that always has it on. It's a Holden's pub I think and also has their beers on too, but there's never enough time to drink them
It's a great beer though, has sweetness, dryness, enough bitterness and lightness all in one glass. very moreish
Anyone have a recipe for the Bathams best bitter? Or is the bierhaus attempt in some previous post a good starting point?
Anyone have a recipe for the Bathams best bitter? Or is the bierhaus attempt in some previous post a good starting point?
I think that's the same as bierhaus recipe.There is a recipe Bathams Best bitter in the CAMRA brew your own british real ale book. It is just base malt and hopped to 30IBU with fuggle and northdown, golding as a post boil hop.
edit: changed dry hop to post boil
yes I missed connecting GW to the CAMRA recipe.I think that's the same as bierhaus recipe.
If you find a better starting point, let me know. I've spent a fair amount of effort looking for info on the brew and there isn't much to be had, other than the standard GW recipe: Maris Otter with Northdown and Fuggles in the boil and Goldings in either WP or cask hop. 1.043 OG. Newer sources (Pete Brown, ect) indicate they also use invert sugar in the brew. The beer is said to finish quite dry and bitter, but with a balanced sweetness. Their yeast is supposedly repitched continuously and flavor descriptions lean towards balanced with lightly-fruity notes. Some diacetyl has been noted in the cask as well. As such, I've stuck with using high attenuating, flocculative yeasts that provide a rounded flavor with some fruity character. The Cullercoats yeast has done very well in this, although I prefer the drier and more mineral forward Wards yeast for my latest batch. Wyeast 1469 or WY1335 should be suitable/similar. Based on their municipal water, a moderate sulfate-forward profile has worked well.
It's this mob - www.cullercoatsbrewery.co.uk, started by a solicitor in 2011. No doubt their yeast originally came from a regional like Vaux or somewhere, but as stored at Brewlab it's become a bit of a cult favourite - a really vigorous top-cropper.
Looking at the recipes in the CAMRA book most do not seem too different from one another. That matches the comments in the James Kemp link you posted in that most breweries use the same base ingredients so it must be the house yeasts that makes them unique.
I wonder if the Maxim Brewery guys use the original Vaux yeast strain as they are/were ex-Vaux guys who set it up.
It’s a crying shame that Vaux and Scottish & Newcastle breweries were knocked to the ground. They were such huge parts of the respective town/city with a long, rich heritage.
I believe so. Given the corporate history, it could be the same as the Wards one that bierhaus mentioned.
I don't have a trained palette, but yes had a sulfur odor/taste. More accurately, OG was ~1036, at 7 days there was a noticeable but not overly strong sulfur smell with gravity at 1008. 14 days after pitching, the sulfur odor/taste was gone and FG at 1006. I didn't get clove.Sulfur but no clove from the wlp037?
So no temp control just ambient air temp? What do you think the delta temp swings were?
Thanks for the information, looks like you were down in the lager temp area which could explain the sulfur aroma. When I give this yeast another try I will see how low I can get it to ferment and see if that changes the clove phenolics I got.I don't have a trained palette, but yes had a sulfur odor/taste. More accurately, OG was ~1036, at 7 days there was a noticeable but not overly strong sulfur smell with gravity at 1008. 14 days after pitching, the sulfur odor/taste was gone and FG at 1006. I didn't get clove.
Ambient air temperature in my unheated garage. I have a big dial thermometer that reads right around 58F most of the time, so guess 55-60F range (maybe 50-60F? I'm in Seattle which has a pretty moderate climate).
Messing around with an idea.
16l, og 1.04, fg about 1.01, ibus 25 to 30
1.8kg mo pale
0.2kg spelt malt (for the head)
0.125kg Crystal 60l
0.3kg golden syrup
All goldings, split into 30 min and 5 min additions.
Yeast omega pub (supposed to be the fullers strain)
The aim is a British ale on the dryer side with medium carbonation (2.5g sugar/0.5l).
Thoughts on this one?
Looks promising, I’d give it a go. Never used Spelt malt, it’s not something I’ve ever used for a bitter for head retention. We tend to use torrified wheat, but carapils also works well for this. I like to use a bit of both, about 2-5% wheat and 5-8% carapils.
I knocked up a quick version in Brewers Friend...
I brew for York Brewery. Terrier is probably my fave too - ESB territory.
Sorry to hear the news, hope it all works out for you.
It would be worth asking if they have the Holts yeast - a very mundane brewery but the yeast has spread around some of the most successful of the new wave of British breweries. The legendary James Kemp sings its praises here : http://www.port66.co.uk/yeast-brewing-myths-ideal-house-strain/
I asked about the Holts brewery yeast, but they said they do not have that one. I recall reading a post that asking by brewery may not the appropriate way to inquire and I may need to be coy about my inquiry. If so could suggest the indirect route to find that yeast.
See this article for Thornbridge (about half way down)I don't know if eg Thornbridge bottle condition with production yeast, they may well do.
Been a while since I've been on this site in general, but just started back into brewing and introducing a friend. This will be our third batch. I used to do plenty of English ales for about 2 years straight. What do you think of this recipe for a Best Bitter? Thought for the brown malt is to bring a little color without sweetness and lend a touch of roasted quality to enhance a biscuity feel.
You're the head brewer, and you're brewing for a drinker with your tastes, so it's up to you. Personally I wouldn't feel much compulsion to go too far from the classic recipe - pale, bit of invert/adjunct, bit less crystal, bit of torrified wheat if you're up north. You're drifting somewhere into brown/old territory with that grist - nothing wrong with that, there's some great beers in that mould, but you're drifting away from a classic bitter.
It's a fundamental mistake to try and adjust colour with "flavour" ingredients. Get the flavour right and then worry about the colour separately. If you don't have any caramel or black to hand, then you just say it's a Manchester bitter - Boddington's is effectively a pale malt/Goldings SMaSH.
Personally I'm not the biggest fan of Target, and it's largely dropped out of use here except in a couple of legacy recipes, it's down below 8% of hop acreage and falling fast. It's OK for bittering but I'd be tempted to use something else, and definitely change that late addition. Straight Goldings is great, I love a bit of Bramling Cross mixed in there but you can play around with all sorts of things in the blend.
And use the most characterful yeast you can find - WLP041 is a more interesting variation on the WLP002 theme for instance.
You're the head brewer, and you're brewing for a drinker with your tastes, so it's up to you. Personally I wouldn't feel much compulsion to go too far from the classic recipe - pale, bit of invert/adjunct, bit less crystal, bit of torrified wheat if you're up north. You're drifting somewhere into brown/old territory with that grist - nothing wrong with that, there's some great beers in that mould, but you're drifting away from a classic bitter.
It's a fundamental mistake to try and adjust colour with "flavour" ingredients. Get the flavour right and then worry about the colour separately. If you don't have any caramel or black to hand, then you just say it's a Manchester bitter - Boddington's is effectively a pale malt/Goldings SMaSH.
Personally I'm not the biggest fan of Target, and it's largely dropped out of use here except in a couple of legacy recipes, it's down below 8% of hop acreage and falling fast. It's OK for bittering but I'd be tempted to use something else, and definitely change that late addition. Straight Goldings is great, I love a bit of Bramling Cross mixed in there but you can play around with all sorts of things in the blend.
And use the most characterful yeast you can find - WLP041 is a more interesting variation on the WLP002 theme for instance.
looks like black sheep have bought york brewery. Hopefully everyone keeps their jobs
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