English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?

[HTH1975]

The first brewery I worked at here in North Yorkshire used to rack to cask after a week. Fermentation was 4 days, then crash at 10C for 2-3 days. Dump the yeast off the bottom of the FV, then rack to cask with adjunct and isinglass. 6 weeks ‘use by’ date. Beers were generally in best condition at around 2-3 weeks. For the IPA we did, it required a little aging to reach peak, so we’d normally store that in CT for 2+ weeks before racking. Oddly enough, that was the slowest seller (these days you’d never think that an IPA would be the least popular, but it’s very old-fashioned in the areas we sold to).

The current brewery I work at, 4 days is almost always right. We stop 2 points above FG, crash cool, then it will carbonate gently in the cask when served at 10-12C. The beer is allowed to clear for at least 4-5 days in CT at 10C before racking to cask with isinglass. We don’t use adjunct except on rare occasions. Our use by is 6-8 weeks. We use a crazy amounts of finishing hops at ‘hop stand’ - approx 3g/litre, which works out at 820g/barrel. As such, best enjoyed young.

Hope that gives some insight into methods in a (very) traditional Yorkshire brewery.

 

[HTH1975]

How would you describe the recipe of Taylor's Landlord? Something like 90% GP, 10% #2 invert sugar, 35IBUs (StyrianG, Goldings, Fuggles), probably no dry hops, 4,3% & FG <1.010? Do they use some crystal/roasted grain here or is it just the syrup, their web site says "with hints of roasted malt"?

Edit. I forgot the following video where they describe Boltmaker. That contains some crystal & amber and probably the grain bill in Landlord won't be so different.

https://www.morningadvertiser.co.uk...mpion-Beer-of-Britain-winner-Timothy-Taylor-s

Timmy Taylor might say that Landlord is 100% Golden Promise, but I think they’re being economical with the truth. It’s well known that they use invert sugar, even the Ragus website states this (Ragus supply invert sugar here in the UK). My guess is they use 10-20% of the overall fermentables as invert sugar, which would account for the colour and sweetness. Maybe a tiny bit of brewers caramel to darken, if required.

 

[ESBrewer]

^ Highly interesting. Based solely on internet, I think they use all these ingredients: Golden Promise base malt (from Simpsons at least, maybe other maltsters as well), small amount of crystal malt (at least Fawcett's, that could provide crystalized GP for them or then not..), amber malt for some color/roast (see this video at 4:31 and also the previous video I linked) and probably invert #2 that makes the body lighter and adds some color & caramelized sugar taste because people who visit the brewery see lots of #2 invert sugar and because the body of the beer feels quite light and refreshing. I recently had bottled Landlord at near freezing point (too cold, yes) and it felt very light and refreshing, but actually quite enjoyable. It kinda made me think that there could be a bit of additional sugar. But invert could also be there to prime the casks.

 

[Fatcatthegreat]

Timmy Taylor might say that Landlord is 100% Golden Promise, but I think they’re being economical with the truth. It’s well known that they use invert sugar, even the Ragus website states this (Ragus supply invert sugar here in the UK). My guess is they use 10-20% of the overall fermentables as invert sugar, which would account for the colour and sweetness. Maybe a tiny bit of brewers caramel to darken, if required.

I would love a more or less accurate recipe for Landlord. Have seen a couple but naaawww. BTW was in York a couple of years back and spent an afternoon at a brewery. Can't remember the name but it made a beer called, I think, Centurion. Their whole line was beer heaven. Does anyone have recipes for some Yorkshire beers. I have loved everyone I ever drank! Oh yeah, the brewery seemed to be in a low area. We walked downhill going and staggered uphill back to the hotel.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

I made one a couple of years ago that was really good. Unfortunately I lost all of my Beersmith recipes a few months ago so this is only from memory (but would be quite close).
96% Maris Otter (GP is probably a better option)
4% Simpsons Dark Crystal
OG 1.042 to 1.045
Mash at 152F
EKG for bittering
1.5 g/L Styrian Goldings at Flameout
Aim for 30IBU
WY1469 (West Yorkshire Ale)

 

[HTH1975]

I would love a more or less accurate recipe for Landlord. Have seen a couple but naaawww. BTW was in York a couple of years back and spent an afternoon at a brewery. Can't remember the name but it made a beer called, I think, Centurion. Their whole line was beer heaven. Does anyone have recipes for some Yorkshire beers. I have loved everyone I ever drank! Oh yeah, the brewery seemed to be in a low area. We walked downhill going and staggered uphill back to the hotel.

Yep, that’s the one - it’s just called York Brewery. Glad you liked the beers. They’re not my recipes, they were put together in the 1990s when the brewery opened.

 

[ong]

I just brewed a best bitter with GP, a few oz of homemade GP crystal malt, and 3/4 lb homemade invert syrup... hopped with half EKG and half Bramling X, and fermenting with WLP037, Yorkshire Square (closed fermentation, though). Will post tasting notes in a few days.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

I too just brewed a small ~2.5 gallon batch of best bitter... Used some GP, Chevallier, Torrified Wheat, and some No. 2 Invert (pictured). Use Fuggles, Willamette, and First Gold. WY1469 for the yeast with a good dose of pure O2. Will probably dry hop in cask/polypin with EKG or First Gold.

I was shooting for 1.041 but came in at 1.045. So I'll curious to see where this will end up. This was brewed to be my "drinking" (i.e. session) beer for the holidays.

Invert No.2

Wort post-cooling-- color is spot on for what I was shooting for!

 

[ong]

Nice! This is a wort sample from mine (on the light side for a bitter, but I like these low gravity golden bitters).

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I would love a more or less accurate recipe for Landlord. Have seen a couple but naaawww. BTW was in York a couple of years back and spent an afternoon at a brewery. Can't remember the name but it made a beer called, I think, Centurion. Their whole line was beer heaven. Does anyone have recipes for some Yorkshire beers. I have loved everyone I ever drank!

Sounds like Centurion's Ghost by York Brewery? I was always a fan of Terrier back in the day.

Thing with Yorkshire beers, the recipe is only half the story - so much is in the yeast, the water and process. None of the big US homebrew yeast labs really have a proper Yorkshire yeast in their core range, WLP037 and WLP038 are the only ones that come close but they're Vault strains, your best bet is Brewlab.

But in general keep the BU:GU up above 0.80, keep the water pretty minerally, attenuate well, don't overdo the crystal and balance it with the same amount of sugar/invert/syrup, use a characterful yeast.

So @HTH1975 would that be a brewery so traditional that all its cask output is in wood?

 

[deere322]

On the topic of invert, I'm curious as to when one adds it to the boil.
I've added it with 20 minutes left in the boil.
Others have added it with 60 minutes left.

Is there a "best" time to add it?

 

[ba-brewer]

Thing with Yorkshire beers, the recipe is only half the story - so much is in the yeast, the water and process. None of the big US homebrew yeast labs really have a proper Yorkshire yeast in their core range, WLP037 and WLP038 are the only ones that come close but they're Vault strains, your best bet is Brewlab.

I have poking around at the brewlabs web page for a little while and it seems the homebrew yeast section is not reachable or broken. Sent a couple emails but no response. Does it work for you?

 

[Derp]

I have poking around at the brewlabs web page for a little while and it seems the homebrew yeast section is not reachable or broken. Sent a couple emails but no response. Does it work for you?

I'm having the same trouble. I sent an email with some questions 5 days ago but haven't received a response.

 

[ong]

On the topic of invert, I'm curious as to when one adds it to the boil.
I've added it with 20 minutes left in the boil.
Others have added it with 60 minutes left.

Is there a "best" time to add it?

I generally add at flameout, since it’s dense enough to drop to the bottom and scorch before dissolving. I’ve also added during a dry hop addition, to help scavenge oxygen introduced with the hops.

 

[HTH1975]

So @HTH1975 would that be a brewery so traditional that all its cask output is in wood?

Nope, not Sam Smiths (or Theakstons for that matter). I brew for York Brewery. Terrier is probably my fave too - ESB territory.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I have poking around at the brewlabs web page for a little while and it seems the homebrew yeast section is not reachable or broken. Sent a couple emails but no response. Does it work for you?

I got what I wanted from them at the weekend - but that was face to face, as they had made the trip down to London for Brewcon. It wouldn't surprise me if they were staying down for the Brewers' Congress this week, so they may be a bit slow to respond to emails. Alison did imply she's a bit swamped at the moment.

Apparently the homebrew yeast section of the store is down at the moment as they're moving to a new website and something has broken en route, but I guess emails should work.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

On the topic of invert, I'm curious as to when one adds it to the boil.
I've added it with 20 minutes left in the boil.
Others have added it with 60 minutes left.

Is there a "best" time to add it?

I too add mine at the end of boil-- typically with 5 minutes remaining.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Nope, not Sam Smiths (or Theakstons for that matter). I brew for York Brewery.

Ah, gotcha, I'd read it as you had gone from there to somewhere else. Out of interest, can I ask what yeast you use?

As for 3g/l dry hop being crazy - Cloudwater use 24g/l....

 

[ba-brewer]

I got what I wanted from them at the weekend - but that was face to face, as they had made the trip down to London for Brewcon. It wouldn't surprise me if they were staying down for the Brewers' Congress this week, so they may be a bit slow to respond to emails. Alison did imply she's a bit swamped at the moment.

Apparently the homebrew yeast section of the store is down at the moment as they're moving to a new website and something has broken en route, but I guess emails should work.

Thanks for the information, I only emailed the "info" address so maybe that is a low on the priority list. Good to know it is a procedural/update thing, I will wait it out a bit longer.

Any recommendations for a brewlabs northern yeasts that are not +POF or maybe just something else interesting that is not available from whitelabs/wyeast.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I’m on a bit of a UK POF+ kick at the moment so you’re probably better off asking @bierhaus15 but I know a number of people using CC as a (very vigorous) house strain, and F40 is meant to be super-fruity.

I’m sure we haven’t discovered the best of them yet, they have so many. It would be worth asking if they have the Holts yeast - a very mundane brewery but the yeast has spread around some of the most successful of the new wave of British breweries. The legendary James Kemp sings its praises here : http://www.port66.co.uk/yeast-brewing-myths-ideal-house-strain/

 

[HTH1975]

Ah, gotcha, I'd read it as you had gone from there to somewhere else. Out of interest, can I ask what yeast you use?

As for 3g/l dry hop being crazy - Cloudwater use 24g/l....

We use the same house strain for everything. It’s reputed to be from the old Scottish & Newcastle brewery opposite St James’ Park. Brewlab have it if you want to try - it’s a great yeast, fruity, flocs well, can ferment warm. I like it a lot.

3g/L is our end of boil amount - i.e. hop stand, not dry hop. We don’t dry hop many beers to be fair, just the IPAs.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Ah - is that the Brewlab F40 strain I mentioned above? It's got a good reputation, it's long been on my to-do list to try.

Do you bottle-condition with the production strain?
[sorry for all the questions, I don't often get to chat about beers I actually know and like, albeit from a long time ago. Happy memories of the Maltings pre-extension, when all they had were ?3 handpulls, doing some serious damage to precious casks of Sheep Special in the days when it only went to favoured local pubs....]

 

[North_of_60]

I just bought a 50 lb. bag of Brewers Malt so I would like to use that as a base. If I combine it with Vienna and Caramel could I get a similar flavor? The recipe below is what I am proposing. (

I used 2.5 lbs. of Vienna because that is how much I have on hand.)​

Est Original Gravity: 1.038 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.008 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 3.8 %
Bitterness: 32.9 IBUs
Est Color: 11.1 SRM

3 lbs 12.0 oz Brewers Malt 2-Row (Briess) (1.8 SRM) Grain 50.0 %
2 lbs 8.0 oz Vienna Malt (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 33.3 %
12.0 oz Caramel Malt - 120L (Briess) (120.0 SRM) Grain 10.0 %
8.0 oz Wheat - White Malt (Briess) (2.3 SRM) Grain 6.7 %

0.50 oz Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 15.1 IBUs -
0.50 oz Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 9.1 IBUs -
1.00 oz EKG [5.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 39.0 min, 194.4 F Hop 8 8.7 IBUs -

1.0 pkg SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) [23.66 ml] Yeast 9 - -

 

[z-bob]

I just bought a 50 lb. bag of Brewers Malt so I would like to use that as a base. If I combine it with Vienna and Caramel could I get a similar flavor? The recipe below is what I am proposing. (

I used 2.5 lbs. of Vienna because that is how much I have on hand.)​

Est Original Gravity: 1.038 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.008 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 3.8 %
Bitterness: 32.9 IBUs
Est Color: 11.1 SRM

3 lbs 12.0 oz Brewers Malt 2-Row (Briess) (1.8 SRM) Grain 50.0 %
2 lbs 8.0 oz Vienna Malt (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 33.3 %
12.0 oz Caramel Malt - 120L (Briess) (120.0 SRM) Grain 10.0 %
8.0 oz Wheat - White Malt (Briess) (2.3 SRM) Grain 6.7 %

0.50 oz Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 15.1 IBUs -
0.50 oz Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 9.1 IBUs -
1.00 oz EKG [5.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 39.0 min, 194.4 F Hop 8 8.7 IBUs -

1.0 pkg SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) [23.66 ml] Yeast 9 - -

I think the flavor is mainly going to come from the C120 (that's a lot) and the yeast; I doubt the base malts will make much difference. Now let's see what the experts say

 

[HTH1975]

Ah - is that the Brewlab F40 strain I mentioned above? It's got a good reputation, it's long been on my to-do list to try.

Do you bottle-condition with the production strain?
[sorry for all the questions, I don't often get to chat about beers I actually know and like, albeit from a long time ago. Happy memories of the Maltings pre-extension, when all they had were ?3 handpulls, doing some serious damage to precious casks of Sheep Special in the days when it only went to favoured local pubs....]

It’s not bottle-conditioned, it’s filtered and force carbonated.

 

[bierhaus15]

Any recommendations for a brewlabs northern yeasts that are not +POF or maybe just something else interesting that is not available from whitelabs/wyeast.

Saw my name come up and can probably help. I've brewed with 11 BrewLab strains so far and this weekend I'll add King&Barnes and Thwaites to the list. I generally try to brew at least 3 beers with each strain before I make a final verdict. I also maintain a collection of 30+ strains that includes nearly all of the WL/WY UK special release cultures, in addition to stuff I've collected via NCYC and Wallerstein. Needless to say, I really should not be buying more BL yeasts.... I digress.

For BL yeasts, Cullercoats and F40 Newcastle are both really nice yeasts that I think could be categorized as 'northern' strains. Both are good POF- top croppers and have all around easy to use brewing attributes; largely flavor neutral, good top cropping, attenuation, flocculation, and don't require extreme 02 demands (or rousing) for full attenuation. I might prefer the F40 yeast a touch more than CC for use in hoppy styles, but they are somewhat similar.

For others, I really like the Sheffield (Wards) yeast for pale bitters; I have a Batham's bitter clone on tap with it now and it's really lovely. The Somerset 1 yeast is also a nice one, been really liking it for milds and browns where its sweetish-honey flavor profile work well. The Courage yeast is also nice, similar to the Whitbread A strain (1099), and has been nice in more malty-darker bitters; have brewed 2 Director Bitter clones with in addition to other beers. Only strains I have really not liked are the Sussex 1 and Yorkshire 1 yeasts, both of which are POF+ and produced more clove-y notes than expected or wanted.

What type of beers are you looking to brew?

 

[HTH1975]

Saw my name come up and can probably help. I've brewed with 11 BrewLab strains so far and this weekend I'll add King&Barnes and Thwaites to the list. I generally try to brew at least 3 beers with each strain before I make a final verdict. I also maintain a collection of 30+ strains that includes nearly all of the WL/WY UK special release cultures, in addition to stuff I've collected via NCYC and Wallerstein. Needless to say, I really should not be buying more BL yeasts.... I digress.

For BL yeasts, Cullercoats and F40 Newcastle are both really nice yeasts that I think could be categorized as 'northern' strains. Both are good POF- top croppers and have all around easy to use brewing attributes; largely flavor neutral, good top cropping, attenuation, flocculation, and don't require extreme 02 demands (or rousing) for full attenuation. I might prefer the F40 yeast a touch more than CC for use in hoppy styles, but they are somewhat similar.

For others, I really like the Sheffield (Wards) yeast for pale bitters; I have a Batham's bitter clone on tap with it now and it's really lovely. The Somerset 1 yeast is also a nice one, been really liking it for milds and browns where its sweetish-honey flavor profile work well. The Courage yeast is also nice, similar to the Whitbread A strain (1099), and has been nice in more malty-darker bitters; have brewed 2 Director Bitter clones with in addition to other beers. Only strains I have really not liked are the Sussex 1 and Yorkshire 1 yeasts, both of which are POF+ and produced more clove-y notes than expected or wanted.

What type of beers are you looking to brew?

What do you mean by POF? It’s not a term I’ve come across.

 

[Derp]

What do you mean by POF? It’s not a term I’ve come across.

Phenolic Off Flavor Positive (clove-like flavors).

 

[ESBrewer]

Phenolic off flavor positive. Means that it is able (contains the genes) to produce clove-like 4-vinyl-guayacol typical for Hezeweizen etc. when precursor (ferulic acid) is available. Common in wild yeast but not present in all domesticed brewing strains.

 

[ba-brewer]

Saw my name come up and can probably help. I've brewed with 11 BrewLab strains so far and this weekend I'll add King&Barnes and Thwaites to the list. I generally try to brew at least 3 beers with each strain before I make a final verdict. I also maintain a collection of 30+ strains that includes nearly all of the WL/WY UK special release cultures, in addition to stuff I've collected via NCYC and Wallerstein. Needless to say, I really should not be buying more BL yeasts.... I digress.

For BL yeasts, Cullercoats and F40 Newcastle are both really nice yeasts that I think could be categorized as 'northern' strains. Both are good POF- top croppers and have all around easy to use brewing attributes; largely flavor neutral, good top cropping, attenuation, flocculation, and don't require extreme 02 demands (or rousing) for full attenuation. I might prefer the F40 yeast a touch more than CC for use in hoppy styles, but they are somewhat similar.

For others, I really like the Sheffield (Wards) yeast for pale bitters; I have a Batham's bitter clone on tap with it now and it's really lovely. The Somerset 1 yeast is also a nice one, been really liking it for milds and browns where its sweetish-honey flavor profile work well. The Courage yeast is also nice, similar to the Whitbread A strain (1099), and has been nice in more malty-darker bitters; have brewed 2 Director Bitter clones with in addition to other beers. Only strains I have really not liked are the Sussex 1 and Yorkshire 1 yeasts, both of which are POF+ and produced more clove-y notes than expected or wanted.

What type of beers are you looking to brew?

The northern yeast is to brew one of those dry base malt and sugar bitters NorthernBrewer talks about. Not really trying to duplicate anything in particular just going to do a simple bitters in the 1040 range.

I do enter beers in contests and strong bitters and dark mild are the latest two I have been working on. Been going back and forth on trying to brew something that meets the BJCP class and something that may be more typical of a English brewery. One thing that seems to be lacking in my English ales is esters(may have wrong expectations though) so maybe a yeast that is a good ester producer.

The somerset 1 yeast sounds interesting but when I look at the brewlabs list of yeast I don't see it mentioned. Same for some of the others (F40, Cullercoats)you mentioned, is there a different list?
https://www.brewlab.co.uk/services/yeast-list

 

[Derp]

The somerset 1 yeast sounds interesting but when I look at the brewlabs list of yeast I don't see it mentioned. Same for some of the others (F40, Cullercoats)you mentioned, is there a different list?
https://www.brewlab.co.uk/services/yeast-list

From what I gather, they only list a small number of the hundreds/thousands that they have on hand. Contact them via email and they should be able to get you what you need.

 

[bierhaus15]

The northern yeast is to brew one of those dry base malt and sugar bitters NorthernBrewer talks about. Not really trying to duplicate anything in particular just going to do a simple bitters in the 1040 range.

You may be interested in this recipe, or something similar. It has become my "go-to" for dry and light bitters. I modeled this on Batham's Bitter, a quasi-legendary bitter from the Black Country that uses pale malt and brewing sugar. I've never tried the real thing, but the combination of ingredients has been lovely. And since I've got my cask setup working, it's been even better. If you can't get Ragus, I've found turbinado (raw sugar) has an almost identical flavor to their no 1.

1.040, 1.008, 40 BU, 7 SRM

92% Maris Otter (Fawcetts)
8% Ragus No.1 Invert

Northdown @ 75 min
UK Fuggles @ 30 min
UK Fuggles @ WP
UK Goldings @ DH (Cask)

BL-Cullercoats

A word on yeast character, I've found the brewlabs yeasts to be relatively clean fermenting - they all definitely have their own character - but none have expressed over the top fruity. Although that's rarely what I want in my UK beers.

 

[HTH1975]

A word on yeast character, I've found the brewlabs yeasts to be relatively clean fermenting - they all definitely have their own character - but none have expressed over the top fruity. Although that's rarely what I want in my UK beers.

What temperature are you fermentating at? - higher temperatures give more esters.

Also, consider how much you’re oxggenating your wort. Traditional breweries just splash the wort down the side of the FV, so this affects attenuation and probably esters.

I know it’s more popular in the US to oxygenate your wort to high levels, so worth considering.

 

[bierhaus15]

I typically pitch at 17C and free rise to 20C.

That said, I do oxygenate my wort more than what is probably typical for smaller UK breweries, although nothing extreme. My preference is also for less diacetyl production. Attenuation has typically been >64% for most styles.

 

[HTH1975]

I typically pitch at 17C and free rise to 20C.

That said, I do oxygenate my wort more than what is probably typical for smaller UK breweries, although nothing extreme. My preference is also for less diacetyl production. Attenuation has typically been >64% for most styles.

The two breweries I’ve worked at both fermented at the same temperature (22-24C).

 

[HTH1975]

Also, we tend to pitch at higher temperature then let the cooling kick in on the FVs. 25-28C isn’t an uncommon pitching temperature.

I’ve read accounts (from Ron Pattinson‘s blog) that some breweries used to pitch at 15-16C and let the temperature rise freely, as I assume they had no temperature control.

 

[ba-brewer]

You may be interested in this recipe, or something similar. It has become my "go-to" for dry and light bitters. I modeled this on Batham's Bitter, a quasi-legendary bitter from the Black Country that uses pale malt and brewing sugar. I've never tried the real thing, but the combination of ingredients has been lovely. And since I've got my cask setup working, it's been even better. If you can't get Ragus, I've found turbinado (raw sugar) has an almost identical flavor to their no 1.

1.040, 1.008, 40 BU, 7 SRM

92% Maris Otter (Fawcetts)
8% Ragus No.1 Invert

Northdown @ 75 min
UK Fuggles @ 30 min
UK Fuggles @ WP
UK Goldings @ DH (Cask)

BL-Cullercoats

A word on yeast character, I've found the brewlabs yeasts to be relatively clean fermenting - they all definitely have their own character - but none have expressed over the top fruity. Although that's rarely what I want in my UK beers.

Good to know on the character, I am sure part of my issues with esters could be expectation.

When you say turbinado tastes the same as Ragus do mean direct from the bag or when it is inverted?

Do you account for any IBUs from the WP hops and how much of the 40IBUs come from the 75min addition?

 

[Hanglow]

I travel to Wales on the train a couple of times a year and Bathams is the one reason why I enjoy an otherwise tiresome journey, as I have to change trains at Wolverhampton and there is a pub ( The Great Western) near the station that always has it on. It's a Holden's pub I think and also has their beers on too, but there's never enough time to drink them

It's a great beer though, has sweetness, dryness, enough bitterness and lightness all in one glass. very moreish

 

[Northern_Brewer]

The two breweries I’ve worked at both fermented at the same temperature (22-24C).

On the pilot kit as well? Isn’t that meant to be one of the main differences when scaling up, you need to go a bit warmer to get the esters that are otherwise suppressed by the greater hydrostatic pressure?

You’re not the first I’ve heard of fermenting up to 24C, but I believe Marstons still do an old school free rise from ?16C going into the unions. Suspect we’re back to the issue of phenolics from British yeast.

 

[Hanglow]

St Austell start at 15c I think too, their yeast goes banana if it starts too warm.