Aw, it's all good, and the fact you added that feature speaks well...
Cheers!
Cheers!
BrewPi@ESP8266, no need of RPI and Arduino.
- Thread starter pocketmon
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Ridemywideglide
Well-Known Member
No worries. I did find out via online searching that many routers allow you to do exactly what you said. I apparently just have old stuff that didn't have that built in...
I appreciate your effort in adding the feature!
No worries. I did find out via online searching that many routers allow you to do exactly what you said. I apparently just have old stuff that didn't have that built in...
I appreciate your effort in adding the feature!
It's weird.
I have used static IPs outside DHCP ranges since 2006. At that time, I managed to install debian on my NAS, buffalo Linkstation LS120. DHCP doesn't worked on that version of debian, which forced me to use static IP.
The routers I've used are made by small brands, like Asus, D-Link, TP-Link, and brands I can't remember. I've used DD-WRT and OpenWrt. No issue I can remember.
gpupu
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2017
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
Just starting with brewpiless.
I actually have one of those v3 Nodemcu boards. I started with just one sensor, and everything seems to work fine. However, at the moment of attaching a second sensor, brewpi page seems to freeze, with failed to connect to the server.
I am using an usb input of 5V and 3A, maybe has it not enough potence? I am planning on getting a NodeMCU v2.
Will it work? Anyone there with same issues?
Thank you!
I actually have one of those v3 Nodemcu boards. I started with just one sensor, and everything seems to work fine. However, at the moment of attaching a second sensor, brewpi page seems to freeze, with failed to connect to the server.
I am using an usb input of 5V and 3A, maybe has it not enough potence? I am planning on getting a NodeMCU v2.
Will it work? Anyone there with same issues?
Thank you!
I don't think power is an issue.
The new sensor might be the cause. Would you try connect to the new sensor ONLY?
gpupu
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2017
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
Seems It does work... :S
Edit: Well, this is a bit embarrasing so right now seems It os working. What I did is configure each sensor separately And after that conecting both together. I Will leave some hours And check again.
Relay connectors are not instales, but when i tried before i Washington experimenting similar issues. I Will check It later And let you know. Thanks!
Edit: Well, this is a bit embarrasing so right now seems It os working. What I did is configure each sensor separately And after that conecting both together. I Will leave some hours And check again.
Relay connectors are not instales, but when i tried before i Washington experimenting similar issues. I Will check It later And let you know. Thanks!
gpupu
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2017
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
Still having problems.
When I try to connect just one relay (no sensors connected), I get "Controller not updating data" + "Failed to connect to the server" blinking messages.
Best working combination I got, was connecting two sensors, however when i try to update devices system freezes on retrieving data and stop working
My feelling is still that I got a problem with the board. Maybe I burnt something¿? I am really newbie with this.
I attach a pic with my first config, that means:
Only one relay input connected
Sensors disconnected
I am feeding NodeMCU directly to a 5V 3A USB charger
Also there is a second input using a PowerBank that feeds an YwRobot wich produces a 3.5 V to feed two leds.
Red LED is connected directly so is working.
Blue LED connects to (-) and to relay on (+) side.
When relay is disconnected from blue LED and (+) brewpi web is working correctly.
On the other hand, whe connected, it crashed as explained before.
http://imgur.com/a/Yhc5E
Thank you for your help! I already asked for an NodeMCU v2 so its seems is the one that works for most of you.
When I try to connect just one relay (no sensors connected), I get "Controller not updating data" + "Failed to connect to the server" blinking messages.
Best working combination I got, was connecting two sensors, however when i try to update devices system freezes on retrieving data and stop working
My feelling is still that I got a problem with the board. Maybe I burnt something¿? I am really newbie with this.
I attach a pic with my first config, that means:
Only one relay input connected
Sensors disconnected
I am feeding NodeMCU directly to a 5V 3A USB charger
Also there is a second input using a PowerBank that feeds an YwRobot wich produces a 3.5 V to feed two leds.
Red LED is connected directly so is working.
Blue LED connects to (-) and to relay on (+) side.
When relay is disconnected from blue LED and (+) brewpi web is working correctly.
On the other hand, whe connected, it crashed as explained before.
http://imgur.com/a/Yhc5E
Thank you for your help! I already asked for an NodeMCU v2 so its seems is the one that works for most of you.
Still waiting parts for this (the slow boat from china probably sunk) any way I note your looking to add support for ispindel, was wondering how hard it would be to also add support for pressure sensing and control? I got some code for arduino to use these sensors but note @ 2.5bar (36.3 PSI) the output would be well over 3.3v (4.5v), now usually you wouldn't exceed 1.5 bar (21.75 psi) which would come it at 3.357v, the A0 pin is free but would this sensor blow the board? Could used the door sensor pin to fire the relief solenoid. Pressure fermenting is becoming more popular would be nice to have the whole lot controlled and plotted with one device.
Ed: bad math/ more detail
Let me know if you would like to see the code.
Ed: bad math/ more detail
Let me know if you would like to see the code.
First, the ADC input of ESP8266 ranges from 1V ~ 0V, and NodeMcu or D1 mini uses a divider circuit composed of a 220k and 100k register. Therefore, you can add a register like 280k for accepting 5V-0V.
Second, reading from ADC is trivial. The only problem is how to interpret them.
Third, the pressure sensor is kinda pricy and only applicable at the end of fermentation for pressurized fermentation or carbonation. It's kinda nice-to-have. I personally won't spend 50 bucks for it. A digital hydrometer is way more important.
Pressure fermenting is not for just at the end of fermentation. It is quite handy at the start of fermentation as it inhibits ester formation, this also allows for higher fermentation temps and therefore faster ferments if one so chooses. Say a lager from grain to brain in 7 days is not unheard of using these methods. Plenty of info out there on the interwebs.
Agree the digital Hydrometer would be first priority!
Agree the digital Hydrometer would be first priority!
I have done pressurized lager fermentation once.
Once the fermentation kicks off, the pressure rises quickly. Spunding valve is necessary, so the pressure sensor should get the maximum pressure value which is controlled by the Spunding valve quickly.
Even at the end of fermentation, the pressure rises quickly. It's about 8-10 psi per day.
Therefore, the reading of the pressure sensor is not really useful.
It might be more useful to detect carbonation level of priming in keg/bottle, which usually takes longer.
Thats the point presure sensor and solenoid valve replace the spunding valve and controlled to within 1psi. And you can log it making it repeatable. Worst thing with pressure fermenting is finding a quality spunding valve.( commercial units are around $300).
Electronically monitoring pressure and opening and closing a solenoid to maintain a set point seems logical and simple compared with some of the spunding valves I've had.
Electronically monitoring pressure and opening and closing a solenoid to maintain a set point seems logical and simple compared with some of the spunding valves I've had.
That sounds like a complicated hardware setup beyond my ability.
On the other hand, the software would be easy. Just like what you say, reading the pressure value and opening the valve.
well not really if you have a fermenter capable of pressure like these, or these. There are also kits for converting a standard sanke for fermenting.
Then you just need
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_grey_flare.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ffltomnpt.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tee14.htm
and a couple of nipples and a $5 solenoid off ebay and a relay.
Walk in the park
Then you just need
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_grey_flare.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ffltomnpt.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tee14.htm
and a couple of nipples and a $5 solenoid off ebay and a relay.
Walk in the park
I would hate to have something as important as pressure relief left up to a computer or controller ... Think power outage.
Some sorta safe valve of 40-60psi must be used.
BTW,
I finically put my iSpindel into real use. Some issues remain to be solved, though.
I think that's error. The readings of accelerometer fluctuate even when it is on the ground. It is about 1 point, and I think it's pretty good given the resolution is 1 point. The real reading might be something like 1.0495 or 1.0494 but rounded to 1.050 and 1.049.
I do use a simple low pass filter for gravity based schedule, but real value is stored and displayed.
I am developing an algorithm to determine 'stable for one day. This data will help me to verify.
I do use a simple low pass filter for gravity based schedule, but real value is stored and displayed.
I am developing an algorithm to determine 'stable for one day. This data will help me to verify.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Is there any way in the setup procedure to change the pinouts to match Thorrak's pcb?
D0 - Heat
D1 - I2C SCL
D2 - I2C SDA
D3 - Buzzer (currently unsupported)
D4 - N/C
D5 - Cool
D6 - OneWire Data
D7 - Door (Untested)
D0 - Heat
D1 - I2C SCL
D2 - I2C SDA
D3 - Buzzer (currently unsupported)
D4 - N/C
D5 - Cool
D6 - OneWire Data
D7 - Door (Untested)
You need to edit Config.h and change the corresponding definition.
Ridemywideglide
Well-Known Member
I should have my oled this week I think. I'm looking for some direction on hooking it up. I've got 4 EPS's working fine, but I'm not familiar with a screen at all.. And I doubt it's just plug in the wires and go.. I'm gonna work on building the acrylic box this weekend. All parts, other than the oled, are tested and ready for the job. The oled is just eye-candy. If your gonna do do it right!!
I"m hoping pocketmon will guide me with this one....
I"m hoping pocketmon will guide me with this one....
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
How can I tell which pins need to be changed
// Pin Configuration - Change the below to match your individual pinout
//
// pins
#define NODEMCU_PIN_A0 17 // Analog
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D0 16 // No interrupt, do not use for rotary encoder
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D1 5 // Generally used for I2C
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D2 4 // Generally used for I2C
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D3 0
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D4 2 // Also controls the LED on the ESP8266 module
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D5 14
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D6 12
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D7 13
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D8 15
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D9 3 // Do not use - USB
#define NODEMCU_PIN_D10 1 // Do not use - USB
#define PIN_SDA NODEMCU_PIN_D2
#define PIN_SCL NODEMCU_PIN_D1
I should have my oled this week I think. I'm looking for some direction on hooking it up. I've got 4 EPS's working fine, but I'm not familiar with a screen at all.. And I doubt it's just plug in the wires and go.. I'm gonna work on building the acrylic box this weekend. All parts, other than the oled, are tested and ready for the job. The oled is just eye-candy. If your gonna do do it right!!
I"m hoping pocketmon will guide me with this one....
open Config.h, look around line 278, and change to code to something like this
Code:
#define BREWPI_OLED128x64_LCD 1
//#define BREWPI_IIC_LCD 1I am using a 0.96" small OLED. I like it because it has better EMC resistance. It works fine without any issue while the hd44780 20x4 LCD usually wouldn't last over three days in the same position.
In Config.h, around line 218:
Code:
#define coolingPin NODEMCU_PIN_D5
#define heatingPin NODEMCU_PIN_D7
#define doorPin NODEMCU_PIN_D4
#define BuzzPin NODEMCU_PIN_D0Change it to
Code:
#define coolingPin NODEMCU_PIN_D5
#define heatingPin NODEMCU_PIN_D0
#define doorPin NODEMCU_PIN_D7
#define BuzzPin NODEMCU_PIN_D3Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Change it to
[/QUOTE]
Will pin 3 still work as the wakeup button if changed to the buzzer?
Code:
#define coolingPin NODEMCU_PIN_D5
#define heatingPin NODEMCU_PIN_D0
#define doorPin NODEMCU_PIN_D7
#define BuzzPin NODEMCU_PIN_D3Will pin 3 still work as the wakeup button if changed to the buzzer?
Will pin 3 still work as the wakeup button if changed to the buzzer?[/QUOTE]
Wakeup button is not enabled by default.
You might need to change line 152
Code:
#define WAKEUP_BUTTON 1You can use D4 as wake-up button.
line 251
Code:
#if WAKEUP_BUTTON
#define WakeupButtonPin NODEMCU_PIN_D4Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Wakeup button is not enabled by default.
You might need to change line 152
Code:
#define WAKEUP_BUTTON 1You can use D4 as a wake-up button.
line 251
Code:
#if WAKEUP_BUTTON
#define WakeupButtonPin NODEMCU_PIN_D4
Ridemywideglide
Well-Known Member
@pocketmon, Curious if you plan, or know, if the Tilt Hydrometer can/will be implemented?
I've surveyed the communication 'protocol' of TILT.
I will say it's easy to support TILT if you can find a module that ESP8266 can use to support BLE.
The only BLE module I know is HM-10, and I happened to have one. To support iBeacon, which is the way TILT broadcast the data, v540 or higher is necessary. well.Let's jump to the conclusion, I bricked the module and it's not easy to buy a HM-10 running V540.
Buying a Raspberry Pi Zero W might be a better solution.
Ridemywideglide
Well-Known Member
Yea, I keep mentally stumbling back to this running on a Pi, when it's not.. I did not think about the BLE requirement missing on these little guys.
At this point it is just a "would be nice" type of deal. I'm not concerned about monitoring the gravity remotely. I can check that just as I do now.
Thank you again for your work!
I should be receiving my 2.4 inch screen this week I hope, then I'll get the keezer control put put together and get some pictures up. Been spending time looking/learning how to cut/glue acrylic. Planing on making the control box out of that if all goes as planned. :rockin:
Hi,
I've been playing with the Wemos D1 Mini pro and trying to setup Brewpiless.
I managed to compile the files from your github (using the libs zipped libraries provided) - I didn't seem to need ESP8266HTTPUpdateServer separately, is that correct? When I tried to add those files in it wouldn't compile.
I've managed to connect to the device (it's just powered via USB, no other HW connected) but it just says
"Communicating with BrewPiLess controller.." and after waiting several minutes, nothing happens. I can see but can't access any of the rest of the GUI.
Any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong?
UPDATE: Got it working, no idea what I was doing wrong, grabbed my laptop, configured it and it was sorted - Possibly it was falling outside of the alloted 3 minutes. I've still done nothing with the HTTPUpdateServer so not sure if the instructions are wrong or whats going on there....
I've been playing with the Wemos D1 Mini pro and trying to setup Brewpiless.
I managed to compile the files from your github (using the libs zipped libraries provided) - I didn't seem to need ESP8266HTTPUpdateServer separately, is that correct? When I tried to add those files in it wouldn't compile.
I've managed to connect to the device (it's just powered via USB, no other HW connected) but it just says
"Communicating with BrewPiLess controller.." and after waiting several minutes, nothing happens. I can see but can't access any of the rest of the GUI.
Any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong?
UPDATE: Got it working, no idea what I was doing wrong, grabbed my laptop, configured it and it was sorted - Possibly it was falling outside of the alloted 3 minutes. I've still done nothing with the HTTPUpdateServer so not sure if the instructions are wrong or whats going on there....
Ridemywideglide
Well-Known Member
I have a question on the OTA update.. When I go to the page, it ask me to choose a file...? Where do I locate the file to complete the OTA?
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Nevermind
It's in temporal folder.
on Mac, it should be
/var/folders/8w/gxxxxxxxxxx/T/arduino_xxxxx/
The name changes every time Arduino IDE is opened.
It was "build_xxxx" before I updated the IDE las time(v1.7.9?).
Have you seen this ESP8266 project from last year? It doesn't use BrewPi software but does something similar. The thread died off, but in one of the later pages there's a PCB design that uses a larger display. It also looks to add more devices using the one-wire protocol.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=529720
I started building it up, but life got in the way and I didn't make it far.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=529720
I started building it up, but life got in the way and I didn't make it far.
See the little amber dot after SG reading?
I am experimenting with the idea of "stable reading".
GREEN: 48hr gravity change <= 0.001
YELLOW: 24hr gravity change <= 0.001
AMBER: 12hr gravity change <= 0.001
RED: otherwise
Let's see how it works.
I got brewpiless working (but not controlling) previously.
Now with iSpindel integrated this is a supremely useful homebrew gadget.
Now my iSpindel is working, this is a perfect time to complete this project and get it working!
The new brewpiless firmware compiles, now to flash and integrate the iSpindel.
Now with iSpindel integrated this is a supremely useful homebrew gadget.
Now my iSpindel is working, this is a perfect time to complete this project and get it working!
The new brewpiless firmware compiles, now to flash and integrate the iSpindel.
Similar threads
