BrewPi@ESP8266, no need of RPI and Arduino.

[pocketmon]

Well, my first fermentation is under way with the Huzzah BrewPiLess. So far so good, except that my 25˚F ramp over 18 hours seems to be faster than the beer can adjust. Is there any way to allow a greater delta between the chamber temperature and the beer temp? It isn't really a big deal though, as this is an understandably ridiculous ramp.

What I see in you screenshot is that you switch to beer profile starting at 70F from fridge constant mode set to 25F.
When the beer profile started, it set the temperature to 70F. This is expected. If you want slow ramping, you should use beer profile like this.
Start from 65F ( 25F is your fridge temperature, not beer temperature).
Ramp to 70F in X day. You just specify the time you want, and the beer profile will calculate the increment and increase the temperature automatically.

 

[MBasile]

Has anyone else encountered intermittent data issues? My sensors have been spotty since last night (when I did open the chamber to pull a gravity reading). I haven't yet checked the wiring connections because it is hot as hell in the garage right now, but has anyone experienced any issues like this? I do plan on checking the connections this evening.

***UPDATE***
I took of the top of the controller box to check on the connections. I didn't see any obviously suspect connections, so I left the top off. Everything is fine now, so I'm wondering if the controller box was getting too hot.

 

[Scarabrew]

Well, in my first attempt I was able to set it up with 3 sensors. The device worked properly for 5 minutes and then the LCD turned to these squares.

The web interface is still working but the LCD is not. Any idea?

 

[Bigdaddyale]

Might be a power issue at the LCD.Looks like you have a different set of connectors from pic A to pic B. Is this the same LCD? if not did you adjust the pot on the back side of the LCD?

 

[Scarabrew]

Might be a power issue at the LCD.Looks like you have a different set of connectors from pic A to pic B. Is this the same LCD? if not did you adjust the pot on the back side of the LCD?

I replaced both the LCD and the connectors and the problem remained.

I never touched the pot at the back but it only adjusts the LCD's brightness, right?

 

[Bigdaddyale]

I replaced both the LCD and the connectors and the problem remained.

I never touched the pot at the back but it only adjusts the LCD's brightness, right?

No.Try adjusting the pot.
It controls the contrast
I don't know why it would blank out after running correctly for 5 min unless it's a low voltage problem.

 

[pocketmon]

Has anyone else encountered intermittent data issues? My sensors have been spotty since last night (when I did open the chamber to pull a gravity reading). I haven't yet checked the wiring connections because it is hot as hell in the garage right now, but has anyone experienced any issues like this? I do plan on checking the connections this evening.

***UPDATE***
I took of the top of the controller box to check on the connections. I didn't see any obviously suspect connections, so I left the top off. Everything is fine now, so I'm wondering if the controller box was getting too hot.

It happens to me on one of my setup from time to time. I couldn't figure out a way to get better connection but could tweak the lines to make it connected.

 

[pocketmon]

Well, in my first attempt I was able to set it up with 3 sensors. The device worked properly for 5 minutes and then the LCD turned to these squares.

The web interface is still working but the LCD is not. Any idea?

I would guess the power supply to the LCD might not be stable.

I have a setup that will get scrambled display after a day or two. Sometimes, it takes only a few hours. However, the display of your LCD looks like "uninitialized".

I do have an idea of workaround for the scrambled display caused by EMC from the lengthy cheap BrewPi thread. That is simply "re-initializing" the LCD and redisplaying everything periodically. This workaround should work for you, but it is just a workaround, not a solution.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

This raises a question for me. If I measured the voltage on X and Y pins (yet to be determined) on the LCD could I dial in the correct contrast and verify I have optimal settings on the LCD?

 

[Scarabrew]

No.Try adjusting the pot. It controls the contrast. I don't know why it would blank out after running correctly for 5 min unless it's a low voltage problem.

It worked like a charm. Thanks.

The problem I am facing at the moment is that the ESP posts only 1 measurement at UBIDOTS and then stops posting. If I turn the BrewPiLess off and turn it on again it posts a second measure.

Any guess?

 

[Bigdaddyale]

It worked like a charm. Thanks.

The problem I am facing at the moment is that the ESP posts only 1 measurement at UBIDOTS and then stops posting. If I turn the BrewPiLess off and turn it on again it posts a second measure.

Any guess?

I read about this before but I would have to search for the answer- The ESP8266 goes into sleep mode.

 

[pocketmon]

It worked like a charm. Thanks.

The problem I am facing at the moment is that the ESP posts only 1 measurement at UBIDOTS and then stops posting. If I turn the BrewPiLess off and turn it on again it posts a second measure.

Any guess?

Are you talking about BrewPiLess or iSpindel?

What do you use for Log time period?

My setting seems to work just fine:
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewPiLess#remote-logging

I read about this before but I would have to search for the answer- The ESP8266 goes into sleep mode.

That is iSpindel. BrewPiLess never sleeps.

 

[Scarabrew]

Are you talking about BrewPiLess or iSpindel?

What do you use for Log time period?

My setting seems to work just fine:
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewPiLess#remote-logging

That's for BPL. And, yes, the log time period was too long. Thanks! a lot.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Quick question...how do I change the date and time settings that appear on the last line of the OLED? It is currently set for GMT.

Cheers!

 

[pocketmon]

Quick question...how do I change the date and time settings that appear on the last line of the OLED? It is currently set for GMT.

Cheers!

Change the code directly by adding timezone offset.

That's optional, so I don't want an extra setting for timezone.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Thanks for the answer pocketmon....I've got another question for you.

And sorry to bring this up again, since I know you don't suggest using a rotary encoder...but I'd like the convenience of adjusting temps directly on the box. I'm having trouble with the wiring and changing the pins in the config.h. Namely...what do I do?

I use:
- 20x4 I2C LCD
- Wemos D1 Mini
- KY-040 rotary encoder
- PCF8574A I/O expander

My LCD displays just fine when SDA/SCL are connected directly to D2/D1 on the Wemos, but when I connect the LCD via the I/O expander I get solid blocks on lines 1 & 3.

Any help on wiring the PCF8574A to the D1 Mini, re-assigning the pins and getting the rotary encoder to work? Thanks very much!

 

[pocketmon]

1. Rotary Encoder can't work with OLED display.
2. You must turn on the rotary option if you connect it. Otherwise, the IO expander might be recognized as LCD, and the LCD won't work. The address of IO expander must be specified correctly to make both work.
3. My IO expander just connects the OUTPUT of I2C pins to INPUT. It should not change anything.
4. If I knew there is a easier way, I should have already done that. However, you are the one that have access and know your hardware better, you might find a better configuration that works better for you. I can't help.

 

[Scarabrew]

My final problem before I print the 3D case:

Both channels of the relay are constantly ON, no matter the set temperature. I can set 20 degrees Celsius above or below the current fridge temperature and the channels will stay always on. I am using this relay which is a low level trigger relay:

Would be the case to use a High level trigger relay instead?

 

[day_trippr]

Most relay modules are low-active.
There's a "Pin Type" setting in the Device Manager for each control to invert (or not)...

Cheers!

 

[pocketmon]

I had a bad time trying that relay module. exact the one in the photo. You know what? When I put it in the real system, it works. I guess maybe there is something to do with voltage or current drain.

 

[day_trippr]

Is that a SainSmart dual relay board?
I have (counts fingers) 6 of them in service...

Cheers!

 

[Scarabrew]

Most relay modules are low-active.
There's a "Pin Type" setting in the Device Manager for each control to invert (or not)...

Thanks for your help but as far as I know, that jumper is only used if we need an external power supply instead of the voltage provided by the wemos board.

I had a bad time trying that relay module. exact the one in the photo. You know what? When I put it in the real system, it works. I guess maybe there is something to do with voltage or current drain.

I replaced that original relay for a new, bigger, bolder, huge, oh-my-goodness massive relay as can be seen in the picture.

This relay can also be set for low or high-active. Tested both and the problem remains.

This is the final arrangement for the BrewPiLess. I just didn't connect it to the fridge but I am monitoring the output with a multimeter before connect.

 

[day_trippr]

Thanks for your help but as far as I know, that jumper is only used if we need an external power supply instead of the voltage provided by the wemos board.[...]

No, not a jumper.

Again, there is a "Pin Type" setting in the BrewPi Maintenance Panel - Device Configuration pane that will invert a control output if desired. It'll look something like this:



This is from a "real" BrewPi installation but I assume this function was ported...

Cheers!

 

[pocketmon]

Yes, it's ported and simplified. I never figured out the difference between Chamber Devices and Beer Devices, and it's always Chamber 1.

 

[stbernts]

"Error" - wrong tag.

 

[Thorrak]

Yes, it's ported and simplified. I never figured out the difference between Chamber Devices and Beer Devices, and it's always Chamber 1.

There is none. Only difference is some checks in the firmware to make sure you're assigning a beer # to beer devices. Since it only supports 1 chamber/1 beer, that doesn't matter either (hence why I default/ignore in both Fermentrack & the version of the firmware I run).

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Quick question...what type of button should be used for the wakeup function? Momentary pushbutton?

Cheers.

 

[day_trippr]

Momentary something, for sure (there are momentary toggle switches)...

Cheers!

 

[pocketmon]

Quick question...what type of button should be used for the wakeup function? Momentary pushbutton?

Cheers.

I don't know. I have no idea of the types of buttons.

What I know is that it is triggered by pulling the pin from Hight to LOW.

You can try it by shorting the PIN to GND.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

This might be a stupid question, but how do you pull "the pin from HIGH to LOW"?

 

[Thorrak]

This might be a stupid question, but how do you pull "the pin from HIGH to LOW"?

In this case, he's saying that you have the pin wired like this:

Pin --> Button --> GND

When you push the button, you are then connecting the pin to GND, which is "pulling the pin to low" (connecting it to ground)

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Cool! Thanks...that's what I thought, but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'll plug it in again tonight and let it sit for a while. With the wakeup function enabled in config.h....the screen should turn off on its own and then turned back on when I push the button? Or will I be using the button to turn the screen off?

Sorry for all these ridiculous questions!

Cheers.

 

[pocketmon]

Cool! Thanks...that's what I thought, but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'll plug it in again tonight and let it sit for a while. With the wakeup function enabled in config.h....the screen should turn off on its own and then turned back on when I push the button? Or will I be using the button to turn the screen off?

Sorry for all these ridiculous questions!

Cheers.

The screen will be turned off after 180 seconds, and it will be turned on when the button is pressed.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

The screen will be turned off after 180 seconds, and it will be turned on when the button is pressed.

Thanks very much for the quick reply!

 

[nnotto]

I've surveyed the communication 'protocol' of TILT.
I will say it's easy to support TILT if you can find a module that ESP8266 can use to support BLE.

The only BLE module I know is HM-10

I'd like to have a try at this, but have no previous experience with brewpiless or ESP8266. Can you suggest an integration point in the existing code or how you'd approach it?

 

[pocketmon]

I'd like to have a try at this, but have no previous experience with brewpiless or ESP8266. Can you suggest an integration point in the existing code or how you'd approach it?

Background:
1. TILT uses iBeacon to broadcast the information.
https://kvurd.com/blog/tilt-hydrometer-ibeacon-data-format/

2. HM-10 is a BLE module controlled by AT commands. However, it must be some version to support iBeacon.
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=288624.0

If you can find one that supports iBeacon, the rest is simple. Just issue the AT command, read the result, and parse the data.

I won't recommend doing it. Using RPI zero W is a cheaper and easier way.

Another option is ESP32, which seems to support BLE. When it's mature enough, maybe I will port BrewPiLess to it.

 

[Scarabrew]

No, not a jumper.

Again, there is a "Pin Type" setting in the BrewPi Maintenance Panel - Device Configuration pane that will invert a control output if desired. It'll look something like this:

View attachment 412859

This is from a "real" BrewPi installation but I assume this function was ported...

Cheers!

Well done, sir!

 

[hopsauce]

Hi,

Can anyone provide assistance with tuning of the control system?

I'm getting performance as per below - It doesn't look particularly in control. I'd appreciate any assistance - everything is at the defaults.

Thanks!

 

[day_trippr]

Where/how are the probes located?
Is there a heating element in the mix? (looks like it)

Cheers!

 

[hopsauce]

Hi,

Yes, there is a heating element. Please see the setup attached

It is a 75W ceramic bulb in a fridge. The fridge temp probe is hanging on the left and the beer temp probe is under the bubble wrap.