Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I began washing and harvesting my own yeast about a year ago. I got excited and harvested 4 jars from 4 batches in the first month, leaving me with 16 jars of 4 different yeasts. Since I usually brew twice per month, I had a ton of yeast just sitting in my fridge. After using some of this stored (aka old) yeast in beers that came out less than perfect, I began tossing it - hours of work, down the drain. Then I had an idea - why can't I just harvest clean yeast directly from my starter? After trying out a few techniques, here's the process that seems most efficient:
Step 1: Make a starter (3 days prior to brewing) that is .5 liter larger than you need for your beer. Since the majority of 5 gallon batches require no more than a 1 liter starter, a standard 2000 mL flask or even gallon growler will work great. In the photo below, I needed a 2 L starter for a 10 gallon batch, so I made 2.5 L.
1-232.jpg

Step 2: A couple days after making your starter, sanitize a 500 mL (1 pint) mason jar using the sanitizer of your choice. I prefer Iodophor.
2-233.jpg

Step 3: Fill the sanitized mason jar directly from the starter - if you use a stir plate everything will be in suspension, otherwise shake it up a bit prior to pouring.
3-234.jpg

As you can see, I poured about 500 mL of wort/slurry from my starter into the mason jar. After just a few minutes, you can already see the creamy white and very clean yeast settling to the bottom of the jar.
4-235.jpg

Step 4: Place the capped jar in the fridge over night to crash the yeast.
If you plan to use the yeast within a week or so, you can decant the "beer" and pitch directly from this jar. However, if you like to use different yeasts and won't be returning to your freshly harvested yeast for awhile, you will want to store it in a more hospitable environment. Steps 5 and 6 address how to do this.
Step 5: Fill a 250 mL (1/2 pint) mason jar halfway with tap water then microwave it (without the lid!) for 2 minutes to sterilize and de-oxygenate the water.
5-236.jpg

Remove the very hot jar and put the lid on (using pot holders... it's HOT!), then shake it up to sanitize the lid with the boiling water. Let this sit over night to chill to room temp. I usually do this right after harvesting my yeast from the starter.
Step 6: The next day, decant about 80% of the beer off of the pre-harvested yeast in the larger mason jar, making sure to agitate to release the yeast from the bottom of the jar. Then simply pour the yeast directly into the previously boiled water in the smaller mason jar.
6-237.jpg

Cap tightly and place in the fridge. Within a couple days you will have very clear water on top of a clean and compact yeast cake. When you want to use this yeast, make a starter as usual, decanting most of the water off the yeast, leaving just enough to help break up the cake.
Some of the benefits I see to this method include:
  1. The yeast is un-hopped and as clean as it's ever going to be. In fact, this is basically how White Labs and Wyeast grow their yeast.
  2. Since you're only making one jar of yeast, you won't have to store a ton of yeast (some people won't like this point).
  3. You don't have to go through the "washing" process, which is a pain in the arse if you ask me.
  4. You can brew any beer you want, even a barley wine or RIS, and still harvest yeast, as you're getting the yeast prior to it fermenting the beer you will ultimately brew. I guess you will need a pretty large flask, though.
I hope this helps. I've used the same strain multiple times very successfully. I'll never go back to washing yeast again.
image-1-311.jpeg
image-310.jpeg

Cheers!
image-1-311.jpeg
 
how long can i store the yeast in mason jars (without doing steps 5 and 6)before reusing them? and would i have to make a small starter before pitching?
 
@sorefingers23 I would think 2-4 weeks would be fine; the deoxygenated water is simply a better medium for dormant yeast. I would definitely recommend making a starter before pitching- I always do. I just made a starter yesterday using yeast I harvested 2 months ago and it took off within 8 hours.
 
I have the say that I love this method! I looked into a few different methods of recycling yeast and this is by far the easiest and most convenient so far!
One question: Is there a picture of the 'proper' amount of yeast in the final jar? I am not sure if I am cultivating the amount that I should, I think a visual comparison would really help both me and others.
 
@onthedot I should take a couple pics and post them, but to answer quickly: I usually get about 1/2" of yeast at the bottom of the jar after a few days of settling.
Also, for those wondering about yeast viability, I found this on the White Labs website:
"Generally, when reusing yeast from a fermentation, half of the yeast dies in the first month. So by 2 months you only have 10-30% living cells. For White Labs Yeast, the yeast is lab grown with a special media and process, extending the shelf life. If you want to store yeast after fermentation, we would recommend a maximum of two weeks and releasing the pressure in your container every other day. Some people do go longer than that, but the results are mixed. It is also difficult without a lab to check the quality of the yeast before reusing."
Of course they would prefer if we never harvested our yeast! Oh well. I just made 2 starters, one from 3rd gen WLP002 and the other from a 4th gen WLP090- both took off quickly while on the stir plate and began vigorously fermenting 2 seperate IPAs within 8 hours. So...
 
Bru - Thanks for the tip. This works great. I have more yeast than I know what to do with. I posted a few pics of this weekend's results here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/brulosophers-yeast-harvesting-testimony-377704/
 
I wanted to thank the OP for sharing this idea. It has taken the cost of buying a $6 smack pack out of almost all of my beers. I haven't purchased 1056 in months!!
I do it slightly different. Rather than pitching half the original starter into a fermenter, I toss the entire 2000ml flask in the fridge for a day. I then decant the spent beer off the top of that and split the remaining yeast cake up between 5 pint jars of boiled water. (I use the method from this thread to boil/sanitize my jars/water ... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/ ) A couple days before brew day, I pull a jar out and build a starter for that beer. When I get down to the last jar, I build another 2000ml starter and repeat the process of splitting it 5 ways.
 
Well done Brulosopher, Great Idea and Great write-up, clean un-hopped yeast is exactly what Im looking for, as I also make all herb brews.
What do you use to make your starters with DME? or? and quantities?
Cheers!
 
@WileECoyote Thanks, man! I use a ratio of 10 grams DME to 100 mL water; so for a 2.5 L starter that's 250 grams DME.
 
Thank you, I was reading this while learning about yeast washing, etc.
But I would also like to point our the danger of superheating water in the microwave, it can happen, look it up on youtube.
 
Great article. One thing though, if you cap your boiled water and then shake it to sterilize the jar lid, you're most certainly reintroducing oxygen into the water.
 
@thetmaxx: This is absolutely true, so be careful! ;)
@gamb0056: Good point. I actually don't shake, but gently roll the jar so that the water touches all parts.
 
Is the 500ML jar you end up with the equivalent of a wyeast pack or white labs vial? So you would just make a starter with this for one batch, and make 500ML extra to repeat the process?
 
I use Mr. malty to calculate my starters.
What is the yeast viability date for this method? Do you use the date stamped on the original package of yeast from wyeast/white labs? Or do you use the the date you most recently harvested from a starter?
 
@onthedot I use the date I collected the sample. It's worked well so far.
 
chiming in with others here on this magical post:
onthedot said:
"One question: Is there a picture of the 'proper' amount of yeast in the
final jar? I am not sure if I am cultivating the amount that I should, I think a visual comparison would really help both me and others."
my question is in the post below:
 
so, for your mini yeast samples (the ones in sterile H2O), how do you figure how much yeast from your sample to add to your starter to meet your appropriate pitching rate for your batch of beer?
 
@mkravitz13 That's a good question. Unfortunately, I don't think too terribly hard about this piece of it, particularly since the amount of yeast that ends up in the jar (I'll try to add a pic) looks to be a tad more than what comes in a vial. I make an ass out of u and me that there's roughly the same amount of healthy cells in my jars as there are in a vial. I've used numerous strains multiple times using this method and making a starter (I prefer www.yeastcalc.com) using the date I collected the sample as the "manufactured date." If/when someone decides to do a cell count, my ears will be open. Either way, my beers have come out absolutely fantastic using this method, better in fact than when I've started with a vial... this from some of my friends on tried and true recipes. So...
Cheers!
 
@d_striker I'm nowhere near smart enough to accurately answer this question. Umm, my best guess is "enough." ;)
 
I'll add my thanks for posting the original method as well. I've been "attempting" the yeast washing from feremented batches for about a year now and have had mixed resluts. Your's definitely looks to be a better method than I have been doing. One thing that may help with the issue of superheating jars, I have been boiling a quart jar and 4 to 6 jelly jars in water and then capping them full. I recently have had left over jelly jars that I set aside and use that now sterile water to mix for my second washing. I intend to pre-boil/package sterile water/jars for use with your method. Avoiding the microwave altogether. I just have to dip the jar in star san (closed ofcourse) before i uncap and pour.
 
@lstrowge That's a great way to sterilize both water and jar, in fact I've done it before as well. I simply like the the ease of using the microwave. Cheers!
 
First off, this is *awesome*...thank you! I think I might go about it like UofMontanaAlum suggested about just splitting the first starter up into several jars for refrigeration, rather than pitching any of that original starter. Make new starters from those jars for use. Let's call it an initial harvest.
Secondly,
I'd like to recommend a slight clarification to Step 6 (recommended additions in CAPS):
"Step 6: The next day, decant about 80% of the beer off of the pre-harvested yeast in the larger mason jar, WITHOUT DISTURBING THE YEAST ON THE BOTTOM. LEAVE 20% OF THE BEER TO HELP agitate AND release the yeast from the bottom of the jar. Then simply pour the yeast directly into the previously boiled water in the smaller mason jar."
 
@Weezy Thanks, I appreciate the clarification. Now if I only I had the ability to edit the original article ;)
 
Great article bru. I was searching for this info a few days ago, why isn't this article stickied?
 
@sethlovex A few people have suggested it be stickied; I think TxBrew is the person to contact for that :)
 
Good post, this is pretty much exactly like what I've been doing since having similarly suspect results with washing. Since my stir plate and flask are capable of growing very large colonies of yeast (much larger than a 5 gallon batch requires), it's easy to just make a little extra for later.
I haven't been transferring to the smaller jar with boiled/cooled water though, I'll give that a try.
 
Maybe I'm just being really dense here but I'm not really clear on why this is so much easier than "Washing" (read: rinsing) the yeast to begin with. For all intents and purposes it's still seems like the same process, just nailing it from the starter (and likely hopless) rather than the Primary. I'm not knocking it, I've done the same process previously and just used it as a base for a starter when I had two batches that were going to be down near simultaneously but brewed at different times.
 
@ fall-line: The sterilized/de-O2 water part is done only to provide a more hospitable environment for longer term storage. If you use the harvested yeast within 2-4 weeks, I'm not even sure that part is necessary.
@ Accidic: Not dense at all! It's not really the same process because there is not yeast washing (really "rinsing") part to this method. You simply pour .5 liter of wort off of a starter and save it for later. This takes me a whopping 3 minutes. Harvesting and rinsing (multiple times) yeast that has already been used in a beer usually took me at least an hour, as I had to wait for the yeast to stratify, blah, blah. Plus I always ended up with 4 jars, which I'd usually end up tossing 3 of. And yes, I absolutely prefer the fact the yeast I collect using the starter method is hop free, the only junk I collect is a little protein break material from the DME, which is no biggie. Hopefully that clears some things up. Cheers!
 
Brulosopher - good write up! I've been utilizing pretty this exact practice for the last year or so with outstanding results as well. I don't usually store longer than a couple months, so I actually don't decant my saved culture from under the starter beer and have not had any problems.
Regarding estimating your cell count in the saved slurry that some people have asked about. Here is how I do it: Using the OP's example of 2.5L starter with .5L saved, 20% is kept. So if mrmalty/yeastcalc says my 2.5L has, for example, 220 billion cells, I estimate that I have kept 44 billion and use that + the date for the next batch. Given that is ~1/2 of a smack pack, stepped starters really become your friend.
@Accidic - it seems a lot easier than washing/rinsing to me because there's very little trub to get rid of in 500mL of starter wort, so I don't bother with it. Also, when making a starter I'm already in the kitchen with the stove on so getting a jar ready is easy while waiting around for my starter to boil. With washing I found myself either waiting to rack beers, or racking and just tossing the yeast anyhow because I didn't have various sizes of jars sterilized.
 
@ Jbear - I was thinking similarly regarding the cell count thing, I just didn't want to make the erroneous assumption my thinking was right ;). It makes a lot of sense to me, theoretically; however, what doesn't make sense is that I end up with more yeast slurry in my jar than I've ever seen in a WL vial, which seems to contradict the idea there are only 40 million good cells in there. Also, I've never stepped up a starter using this method, even on 1.065+ beers, and they all get going within 12 hours and turn out fantastic. I'm admittedly confused... in a good way!
 
Question - when you make a starter with an extra .5 liter, do you add 25% more DME?
I'm going to try this out 'cause I'm tired of buying yeast vials all the time...
 
I don't have a microscope, so all I really have to base my assumptions is doing the math. I do agree with you that my saved batches appear to be at least the size of a vial, if not more. I have always figured it is mainly trub, since we aren't washing/rinsing the sample. Its pretty clean trub, however, being an unhopped all DME wort only boiled for ~5 minutes so I think it blends with the yeast better. This explanation is my personal experience, but unless all the yeast calculators out there are off by 100s of billions - I just don't see how we can have more cells than that.
In practice, I have not done many stepped starters either, because I rarely start it far enough ahead of brew day for the extra chill/decant days. However, I'm brewing more 10 gallon batches these days I am starting to force myself to plan better. As an example starting with 97b cells (the yeastcalc.com default) you can hit 507b cells with a 5L starter. Or you can hit 506b with 2 1.4L starters. (all are stir plate numbers) Over time that 220grams of DME saved will add up!
 
@ViperMan - Not necessarily 25%, as the amount of DME I use ultimately depends on the volume of my starter. Let's say a certain recipe calls for a 2 liter starter, usually I would use 200 grams DME. But if I plan to harvest some yeast from this starter, I'd make it 2.5 liters and add 50 grams more DME. That said, there's been some very good conversation regarding the actual number of cells we're harvesting using this method... see Jbear's comment below :)
@ Jbear - You make some good points, man. I'm really excited for someone who has the knowledge, skills, equipment, and interest to step up to the plate and count the harvested cells. It's so weird that multiple small volumes of wort will result in more cells than a single flask with even more volume than the multiple combined. Huh.
 
I stumbled across a fascinating thread that is discussing the very topic of yeast growth in starters. Several people there confirmed what I understood, which is that there is an ideal pitching rate specifically for yeast propagation (which is different then the ideal fermentation pitch rate).
The thread then goes on to question whether sites like Mr Malty or Yeast Calc are accurate, specifically for stirred starters - which both you and I make. Of the science oriented folks, the consensus seems to be they are fairly accurate for still/aerated starters, but some are seeing much larger growth than calculated with a stir plate. And that could certainly explain what you and I see in practice - which is that jar sure looks like more than 40b cells!
Here's the link:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/stepping-up-yeast-starter-why-393288/
 
@Jbear - Thank you so much for that link, I'm looking forward to perusing it. I'm glad I'm not the only one who seems to think I'm pulling way more than 40-50b cells.
 
i think the next starter i make may have this in mind. since i usually go back and forth on 3 or 4 ale yeasts.
 
Thanks Bru, been trying to decide the best way to get more than a few brews out of a yeast as I brew small batches and yeast is too expensive at one vial a batch. Think this looks like the best option.
Quick question: when you first pour off 500 ml from the starter and place in the fridge do you have to worry about carb build up in the sealed jar or does the fridge temp stop any fermentation straight away. Don't want any jar bombs in the fridge.
 
@RatsoRizzo - Personally, I've never "worried" about that issue or experienced any problems with it, as I only collect yeast after it is at least almost close to fermented out. Also, mason jars can take some pressure. That said, is it possible to create bombs? Probably, but if your process is good and you're using good jars, I have a hard time seeing how it would happen. Cheers!
 
The metal on the lid will fail long before the jar does. I know from experience. As far as I can tell, it's not from additional fermentation, mainly CO2 buildup. Just off gas as best you can before you can your yeast. Only one lid bulged in the fridge, the other two failed when I took the yeast slurry out to warm up. Both times I got a faceful of yeast.
Bru, I'm using this method from some 1450. Just now coldcrashing a pint of the starter. The other quart went into a porter I just brewed after work.
 
Back
Top