InspectorJon
Well-Known Member
Vs. lagering for several weeks or months...In my experience it might ferment out faster but it still needs at least a good week or more to become clear and start tasting in spec.
Vs. lagering for several weeks or months...In my experience it might ferment out faster but it still needs at least a good week or more to become clear and start tasting in spec.
I doubt you gain much time on a low temp ferment vs higher. Maybe a few days? After that its the same lagering time to get it in spec which is up to everyone's own pallet. For me they taste just fine after a week or so, the clearer the beer becomes the cleaner.Vs. lagering for several weeks or months...
Oh no! An extra week or two! Say it isn't so!In my experience it might ferment out faster but it still needs at least a good week or more to become clear and start tasting in spec.
Yes my point being, but perhaps im not such a lager connoisseur as others, I never really enjoyed the style much.Oh no! An extra week or two! Say it isn't so!
I mean, I agree with you. Most beers taste better after an extra week or two of conditioning. Especially lagers. But NOT a MONTH OR TWO like traditionalists would have us believe.
my goal for warm fermenting - just me, personally - is to make a lager without having to invest in a fermentation fridge (read: SWMBO will murderlize me if i add yet another appliance to the basement). so: how to make the best lager at ambient temps?I've been reading and watching this thread for a while, but never quite figured out what folks are hoping to achieve. Is it just that it's OK to warm ferment a lager yeast and not have terrible beer, making the process easier? Or is it that the beer tastes better in any way?
my goal for warm fermenting - just me, personally - is to make a lager without having to invest in a fermentation fridge (read: SWMBO will murderlize me if i add yet another appliance to the basement). so: how to make the best lager at ambient temps?
i'm certainly not warm-fermenting for any flavor differential... at best, if all the stars align, a WF can taste as good as a traditionally cool-fermented lager. the risk of a few more esters is one i'm willing to take, vs. giving up on lagers entirely. luckily, so far, my WF lagers have turned out very clean. YMMV.
Hoping so! It's still going, bit by bit. Down to 1.012 today. Not the end of the world if it doesn't reach desired vols via spunding!You might not have done
I think you'll get there, especially bumping temp up a couple of degrees now as well.Hoping so! It's still going, bit by bit. Down to 1.012 today. Not the end of the world if it doesn't reach desired vols via spunding!
I'll update in here, for posterity. Tomorrow is one week since pitch. The spunding valve is set to 25psi now @ 68-70ºF, and still off-gassing (whether or not it's ferm activity or just CO2 breaking out). We'll see what story the gravity tells starting tomorrow.I think you'll get there, especially bumping temp up a couple of degrees now as well.
Same here.I've always fined in the keg. Leave as much behind as you can during transfer.
fermentation temps, profile, or whatnot?I've just bottled my latest warm fermented lager. Haven't done one for quite a while and I am super pleased with the result.
It's supposed to be an American light lager going into the direction of kirin ichiban, but a tad bit lower abv. I think I've nailed it! Fermenter sample tasted so nice that I've drawn myself a pint straight out of the fermenter. 20 ibus, pilsner malt, 3% carafoam, hoch kurz mash, diamond lager yeast.
The yeast handling was a bit unique. I've used lallemand diamond lager. I took 3g of the yeast and multiplied it in a 2l starter twice. One hour prior pitching a gave the yeast a cup of wort to get active. This means I pitched A LOT of yeast and it was super active.
The result is really clean with big herbal hop aroma and zero c hop flavour although I used cascade. 60 minute addition only.
If this will turn out like I think it will, I'll open a dedicated thread with the full recipe.
Cheers!
19 c to 20 c room temperature without further temperature controlling. Except for the tub of water where I placed the fermenter in, to increase the thermal mass. This lowers initial temperature rises when fermentation is at it's peak. The swing shouldn't be that big anyway, as the OG was quite low, 1,04. The final gravity is 1.008.fermentation temps, profile, or whatnot?
I've read that from multiple people here on the thread and so far, I strongly agree! It is dropping out like no lager yeast I've had before. And I've had .... Two!!I've been a big fan of Diamond.
Patience is something for other people, obviously not for me. I've tried the first bottle, five days after bottling. Summer temperatures fully carbonated it already and it's is a really nice beer. Almost perfectly clear already as well! Somehow way hoppier than anticipated, so it's more like a pilsner than an American light lager, but nevertheless very good.I've just bottled my latest warm fermented lager. Haven't done one for quite a while and I am super pleased with the result.
It's supposed to be an American light lager going into the direction of kirin ichiban, but a tad bit lower abv. I think I've nailed it! Fermenter sample tasted so nice that I've drawn myself a pint straight out of the fermenter. 20 ibus, pilsner malt, 3% carafoam, hoch kurz mash, diamond lager yeast.
The yeast handling was a bit unique. I've used lallemand diamond lager. I took 3g of the yeast and multiplied it in a 2l starter twice. One hour prior pitching a gave the yeast a cup of wort to get active. This means I pitched A LOT of yeast and it was super active.
The result is really clean with big herbal hop aroma and zero c hop flavour although I used cascade. 60 minute addition only.
If this will turn out like I think it will, I'll open a dedicated thread with the full recipe.
Cheers!
I believe that's their version of 34/70. It should work fine I'd thinkHas anyone tried warm fermentation with Cellar Science German yeast yet? I assume it's the same as 34/70, but looking for warm fermentation experience here.
update on this year's lagers:i've had great success repitching 34/70. for the past 3 years i've followed the same spring brew process: warm-ferment 3 x 5gal batches of pilsner/light blond lager using 34/70, then use the cakes for 2 x 5gal of doppelbock.
time to start planning my annual lager brews, come to think of it...
I would think so. But my new thing is to do a starter with about 1/3 or 1/4 of a pack to turn it into liquid yeast essentially. I seal the remaining of the pack with a piece of tape and freeze it. Stores forever.I got a good deal on Lallemand Diamond lager yeast and have 2 packs on their way to me.
I think I will brew an NZ pilsner with it later this year.
I'll be aiming for an OG of around 1.052; would one pack be enough warm fermented around 18oC (64F)?
I might give that a try but will depend on how much time I have when I brew it.I would think so. But my new thing is to do a starter with about 1/3 or 1/4 of a pack to turn it into liquid yeast essentially. I seal the remaining of the pack with a piece of tape and freeze it. Stores forever.
Never used it directly out of the pack I'm afraid.
For 5 gallons (19 L)? At 18-20 C? One pack is plenty. Unless you like wasting money.I've got a planned imperial rice lager for when I'm back from holiday. 70% Pilsner, 20% flaked torrified rice, and 5% each Munich and CaraHell. 30 IBU of Sorachi Ace, with an ounce and a half in the whirlpool and two in a dry hop, plus some Yuzu peel.
I'm intending on using NovaLager at ~18-20°C and fermenting under about 8-10PSI of pressure. Target OG is circa 1.066 with a target FG of 1.010 and around 7.4% ABV.
What do you reckon the correct pitch rate would be? I was guessing 3-4 packs.
6.5 gal, 1.066 OG. Lallemand 's pitch calculator says 2 packs so that's what I'll do.For 5 gallons (19 L)? At 18-20 C? One pack is plenty. Unless you like wasting money.