New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[stickyfinger]

I'm getting ready to do my 2nd dry-hopping in the next day or two as I described earlier in the thread but I was wondering if anyone else has done this recipe with all Falconer's Flight (not the 7C's, the regular blend). I can't seem to figure out exactly how this hop profile is going to come out and getting nervous about it!

Also, I take it cold crashing, and especially fining is entirely unnecessary with this style of beer? haha

I like to cold crash for a day or more before final rack to prevent clogging while transferring into my keg ( I go in through the beer out line.) It doesn't hurt the beer and makes the hops compress down to the bottom much better.

 

[lilbova3]

I like to cold crash for a day or more before final rack to prevent clogging while transferring into my keg ( I go in through the beer out line.) It doesn't hurt the beer and makes the hops compress down to the bottom much better.

+1 to this. I'll cold crash two days though. Don't cold crash too low as you will get too much to drop out, some protein and those precious hops oils. No need to cold crash lower than 40*, at least that's what I do.

 

[hopsaboutbeer]

I did one with Columbus/Eureka/Citra..... it was way overpowering. If I was going to do it again, I would definitely not use Eureka and Columbus together. I would bitter with Warrior. Maybe go with Citra/Mosaic/Eureka (1:1:1)or Citra/Galaxy/eureka (1.5:1:.5) or Citra/Eureka 2:1.

I would error on the side of caution with Eureka. I have had a couple beers I loved it in, but it was a smaller addition to Citra.

Awesome, thank you. Would you be hesitant to use Simcoe and Eureka together? I was thinking possibly Simcoe/Citra/Eureka or Simcoe/Mosaic/Eureka.

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

Yep +1 I Cold crashed as well in anticipation of this... I had almost a full 1.5" in each carboy of trub/sediment and hops that transfered over from the primary. Compacted down nicely. Use my racking cane with SS mesh screen on it and it worked beautifully.

 

[m00ps]

Awesome, thank you. Would you be hesitant to use Simcoe and Eureka together? I was thinking possibly Simcoe/Citra/Eureka or Simcoe/Mosaic/Eureka.

Id definitely go with simcoe mosaic and eureka but I guess it depends on what you want to shoot for. Eureka is super dank, just ridiculously pungent aroma with pine and citrus underneath. Ive been using it along with simcoe, columbus, and apollo in a black IPA where I shoot for that piney/resin/dank flavor. Mosaic has a bit of that earthy herbal edge to it so I could see it pairing very well

 

[hopsaboutbeer]

Id definitely go with simcoe mosaic and eureka but I guess it depends on what you want to shoot for. Eureka is super dank, just ridiculously pungent aroma with pine and citrus underneath. Ive been using it along with simcoe, columbus, and apollo in a black IPA where I shoot for that piney/resin/dank flavor. Mosaic has a bit of that earthy herbal edge to it so I could see it pairing very well

Awesome! I'll think i'll go with Warrior for bittering and Simcoe/Mosaic/Eureka in boil/whirlpool (1:1:1) and Simcoe/Mosaic/Eureka in dry hop (1.5:1:.5). How does that look? Thinking if I keep Eureka lower than all the others in the dry hop will help me not overpower things. I want it pretty dank but not overpowering.

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

I think that is a wise move, however if you are trying for that citrus juicy note, Galaxy and or Citra will get you there. They are both lighter and have less dank resinous notes when compared to Eureka. Personally for this brew, and this is just me, my objective is a juice citra light drink. Not dank or resinous. I'd save that for a DIPA like a Pliny or something.

I'd dry hop with Citra if you can get your hands on it, and I'd do it at the higher end like a 1.5 Simcoe 1 Mosaic and 1.5 Citra

 

[hopsaboutbeer]

I think that is a wise move, however if you are trying for that citrus juicy note, Galaxy and or Citra will get you there. They are both lighter and have less dank resinous notes when compared to Eureka. Personally for this brew, and this is just me, my objective is a juice citra light drink. Not dank or resinous. I'd save that for a DIPA like a Pliny or something.

I'd dry hop with Citra if you can get your hands on it, and I'd do it at the higher end like a 1.5 Simcoe 1 Mosaic and 1.5 Citra

Cool, I have a bunch of Citra at home. Only reason I wanted to try to add some dank/resinous notes is because I tried 3 different NE IPAs from Fieldwork last night and one had some amazing dank/resinous notes in it. Only clue to what they use is Columbus, Mosaic and ""Fieldwork Dank Blend".

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

They might not be getting their dank/resinous notes from their primary or secondary dry hops. It could be from their whirlpool hops or even a small addition at the 20-15min mark. My guess would only be valid if you perceived a noticeable bump in bitterness as well. I've seen some people through Nugget in at whirlpool to get that effect. Thats more of a Mid-west/PA style IPA though. Think of Yards Brewing or Troegs.

 

[hopsaboutbeer]

They might not be getting their dank/resinous notes from their primary or secondary dry hops. It could be from their whirlpool hops or even a small addition at the 20-15min mark. My guess would only be valid if you perceived a noticeable bump in bitterness as well. I've seen some people through Nugget in at whirlpool to get that effect. Thats more of a Mid-west/PA style IPA though. Think of Yards Brewing or Troegs.

Great point. It wasn't very bitter. I know I can't really go wrong so i'll come up with a nice combo and go with it. Appreciate your insight

 

[BrunDog]

Guys,

Brewed a slightly modified version of this with respect to the grain bill (hops are same as OP's recipe).

Question: rather than going with a middle keg, how do you think it would work to go from the primary into the serving keg, adding the second round of dry hops into the serving keg? This would save the headache of the middle keg and resulting potential oxygenation (even with flushing).

Thanks in advance!

 

[Braufessor]

Guys,

Brewed a slightly modified version of this with respect to the grain bill (hops are same as OP's recipe).

Question: rather than going with a middle keg, how do you think it would work to go from the primary into the serving keg, adding the second round of dry hops into the serving keg? This would save the headache of the middle keg and resulting potential oxygenation (even with flushing).

Thanks in advance!

Just make sure if you are moving directly to serving keg you do 2 things:

1.) Make sure you are careful about the transfer...... put the fermenter on the counter the day before, pour off the first few ounces full of trub/hops, etc.... You do not want to transfer a bunch of debris to the serving keg.

2.) bag the hops in the Serving keg (can even pull them back out after a few days if you connect to a string).

Basically, you do not to have a bunch of hop debris plugging up your posts.

Otherwise, no reason you can't do what you are planning.

 

[lilbova3]

Guys,

Brewed a slightly modified version of this with respect to the grain bill (hops are same as OP's recipe).

Question: rather than going with a middle keg, how do you think it would work to go from the primary into the serving keg, adding the second round of dry hops into the serving keg? This would save the headache of the middle keg and resulting potential oxygenation (even with flushing).

Thanks in advance!

This is what I do. I cold crash my brew first for two days on day 10-12. Then will rack to purged keg. Only have done two so far but both have shown no signs of oxygenation.

 

[jjw5015]

Here's the hydro sample of mine I kegged today. 1:1:1 citra/mosaic/azacca at flameout/whirlpool/double dry hop with a small ctz bittering charge.

Grain bill was:

80% 2 row
10.9% flaked oats
5.5% C 20
3.6% white wheat

Mangrove jacks m07 british ale yeast

Gravity : 1.064/1.012

Straight juice bomb. So happy with it

View attachment 1472413317161.jpg

 

[crusader1612]

Here's the hydro sample of mine I kegged today. 1:1:1 citra/mosaic/azacca at flameout/whirlpool/double dry hop with a small ctz bittering charge.

Grain bill was:

80% 2 row
10.9% flaked oats
5.5% C 20
3.6% white wheat

Mangrove jacks m07 british ale yeast

Gravity : 1.064/1.012

Straight juice bomb. So happy with it

Good to see someone using Mangrove Jacks yeasts - to see how effective it is in this sort of style

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

I may give this yeast a whirl in my next ESB or Bitter. I won't know if I will do it in this brew until I've had a chance to let this one carbonate and condition for a while.

 

[Oceanbear1]

so I'm planning on brewing this beer this weekend, but bumping the abv up to 6-7% How would this affect the amount of hops I need to use?

 

[Braufessor]

so I'm planning on brewing this beer this weekend, but bumping the abv up to 6-7% How would this affect the amount of hops I need to use?

Personally, I have brewed many versions of this beer between 4.5-6.5%....... I have never changed the hops......

.75 Warrior to Bitter
2 x 3 ounce additions in kettle
2 x 3 ounce additions for dry hop

Now.... if you are going beyond 7% up into the DIPA range.... I suppose it might make some sense to increase the hopping. Otherwise, I just think you are splitting hairs a little bit at a certain point.

 

[jjw5015]

so I'm planning on brewing this beer this weekend, but bumping the abv up to 6-7% How would this affect the amount of hops I need to use?

The recipe i just posted is around 6.8% and used the same amount of hops and they are coming through nicely. so you probably dont have to change anything

 

[Oceanbear1]

Personally, I have brewed many versions of this beer between 4.5-6.5%....... I have never changed the hops......

.75 Warrior to Bitter
2 x 3 ounce additions in kettle
2 x 3 ounce additions for dry hop

Now.... if you are going beyond 7% up into the DIPA range.... I suppose it might make some sense to increase the hopping. Otherwise, I just think you are splitting hairs a little bit at a certain point.

thanks for the quick reply

 

[Oceanbear1]

The recipe i just posted is around 6.8% and used the same amount of hops and they are coming through nicely. so you probably dont have to change anything

I'll make sure to look at it

 

[mintyice]

Braufessor, brewing your basic blonde today with Azacca and Centennial

 

[cyclonebeer]

Just make sure if you are moving directly to serving keg you do 2 things:

1.) Make sure you are careful about the transfer...... put the fermenter on the counter the day before, pour off the first few ounces full of trub/hops, etc.... You do not want to transfer a bunch of debris to the serving keg.

2.) bag the hops in the Serving keg (can even pull them back out after a few days if you connect to a string).

Basically, you do not to have a bunch of hop debris plugging up your posts.

Otherwise, no reason you can't do what you are planning.

If you skip the dry hop keg and just dry hop twice in the primary, you might be wise to remove the first dry hop addition before adding the second dry hop addition (if possible). Leaving dry hops in a fermenter for too long might produce some grassy flavors.

 

[cyclonebeer]

If you skip the dry hop keg and just dry hop twice in the primary, you might be wise to remove the first dry hop addition before adding the second dry hop addition (if possible). Leaving dry hops in a fermenter for too long might produce some grassy flavors.

Sorry,

Re read BrunDog's OP. I now see that he is not dry hopping twice in primary.

 

[jjw5015]

I dryhopped twice in primary. On day 8 and 11, kegged on 14. No grassiness

 

[brewski09]

Some are more sensitive to the grassiness produced from extended dry hop contact time than others. I personally hate it and don't let my dryhops contact longer than 5 days at most, usually 3-4 days though.

 

[crusader1612]

Some are more sensitive to the grassiness produced from extended dry hop contact time than others. I personally hate it and don't let my dryhops contact longer than 5 days at most, usually 3-4 days though.

IMO - when hops are in contact with the beer, the oils are extracted relatively quickly (normally around 48 hours) leaving for 7 days or more is unnecessary.
I tend to dryhop for 4-5 days including a cold crash period. of 2-3 days, depending on how lazy I am feeling.

NZ hops normally only get 4 days, as they tend to be grassier with longer contact time.

 

[jwm1485]

How would one of these turn out without any water treatment?

 

[lilbova3]

How would one of these turn out without any water treatment?

I've thought the same. I have a friend that checked the final numbers of a HF IPA and found that the finished sulfate level was at 20! Grain will add some sulfate to a beer so my friend believes that they found a grain that adds very little sulfate and they probably don't add any gypsum or a tiny tiny amount.

A recent brew I was gonna do this but chickened out. My numbers were Ca: 80, Cl:118 and SO4: 34 with a 5.33 pH. We'll see how it goes. I can keep you posted.

A local brewer did a NE IPA with only adding CaCl and I got to try it out of the fermenter after a dry hop, so it was carbed yet, but you could definitely perceive a softer and fuller mouthfeel to this beer. It was quiet delicious. His numbers were around Ca: 50 and Cl: 50 with no measurements for SO4 and pH around 5.30 in the mash. Between the brewer and friend they believe that very little minerals (gypsum, CaCl) are added to the beer. Think opposite of Heady Topper that supposedly adds a bunch of gypsum to give it that bite.

When you think about what sulfate is used for, helps make hops pop and perceived bitterness, you may need to add more hops to get the flavor and aroma you want.

 

[Braufessor]

How would one of these turn out without any water treatment?

Try it!

I brewed a porter on sunday - 100% RO water, no additions of any kind.

Came in at:
5.41 mash pH
5.47 pre boil kettle pH
5.27 post boil pH

Kind of using it as a baseline beer to test out some different water additions with porters.

I also plan to brew one with 100% high bicarbonate (275ppm) tap water.

Then a third where I use 100% RO water with additions to get a "desired" water profile in regard to hardness and minerals for a dark beer.

I might try an IPA with no additions after I see how this first porter goes.

 

[lilbova3]

Try it!

I brewed a porter on sunday - 100% RO water, no additions of any kind.

Came in at:
5.41 mash pH
5.47 pre boil kettle pH
5.27 post boil pH

Kind of using it as a baseline beer to test out some different water additions with porters.

I also plan to brew one with 100% high bicarbonate (275ppm) tap water.

Then a third where I use 100% RO water with additions to get a "desired" water profile in regard to hardness and minerals for a dark beer.

I might try an IPA with no additions after I see how this first porter goes.

Please keep us posted on this porter!

 

[BrunDog]

Try it!



I brewed a porter on sunday - 100% RO water, no additions of any kind.



Came in at:

5.41 mash pH

5.47 pre boil kettle pH

5.27 post boil pH



Kind of using it as a baseline beer to test out some different water additions with porters.



I also plan to brew one with 100% high bicarbonate (275ppm) tap water.



Then a third where I use 100% RO water with additions to get a "desired" water profile in regard to hardness and minerals for a dark beer.



I might try an IPA with no additions after I see how this first porter goes.

Easier to get your pH in the range with the roast malts of course. Use pale malts and you would need the acid. I know you know that, just sharing for others learning.

 

[ViciousFishes]

Apologies if I've missed this earlier in this excellent thread. Braufessor, do you dry hop in primary during active, initial, fermentation? Or do you dry hop during diacetyl reset? My practice has been to dry hop at the beginning of day 2 (of three) at 72* during my d-rest, approximately 4-5 days from initial pitch of my starter.

I was recently reading something about the benefits of biotransformation of hop oils into something magical during the initial, active phase of fermentation.

Can you clarify your practice/preference at this point your process?

 

[lilbova3]

Apologies if I've missed this earlier in this excellent thread. Braufessor, do you dry hop in primary during active, initial, fermentation? Or do you dry hop during diacetyl reset? My practice has been to dry hop at the beginning of day 2 (of three) at 72* during my d-rest, approximately 4-5 days from initial pitch of my starter.

I was recently reading something about the benefits of biotransformation of hop oils into something magical during the initial, active phase of fermentation.

Can you clarify your practice/preference at this point your process?

At the end of active fermentation is perfect and your timing right now is good. That's when I do mine on day 5-6 after the temp has risen to help the beer finish.

Scott Janish posted something about the biotransformation of oils stating that it is true. He theorized that you could put the dry hops in before you even pitch the yeast to really get a good transformation. I don't pull my dry hops or transfer to a secondary so I throw them in around day 5-6, leave for 5-6 days then keg with some more hops in the keg (bagged). If you can pull your dry hops or transfer off the first dry hop try throwing them in earlier. I believe Brau does add them with a few points left and then transferred to a keg for the second dry hop.

The science behind it is (and this is straight from Janish) geraniol is transformed into citronellol (sweet citrus fruit like aroma) and linalool was converted to terpineol (lilac aroma is the best descriptor). I've thought about doing one of my next brews with hops high in geraniol (Centennial, Mosaic, Simcoe) for the first dry hop addition and then switching it up to the more fruity known hops (Mosaic, Galaxy, Citra, Nelson, El Dorado etc) for the second go around.

 

[Braufessor]

Apologies if I've missed this earlier in this excellent thread. Braufessor, do you dry hop in primary during active, initial, fermentation? Or do you dry hop during diacetyl reset? My practice has been to dry hop at the beginning of day 2 (of three) at 72* during my d-rest, approximately 4-5 days from initial pitch of my starter.

I was recently reading something about the benefits of biotransformation of hop oils into something magical during the initial, active phase of fermentation.

Can you clarify your practice/preference at this point your process?

I am not ultra-precise on the first dry hop.... sometimes it just depends on how busy I get. But, ideally, I like to throw them in primary fermenter around day 4 or 5 when there is still some fermentation going on, but probably getting toward the end. Then, around day 10-12 I transfer to my dry hopping keg for second shot of dry hops. I leave them there for 2 days, and move to serving keg on day 12-14.

 

[armenianbrewer]

At the end of active fermentation is perfect and your timing right now is good. That's when I do mine on day 5-6 after the temp has risen to help the beer finish.

Scott Janish posted something about the biotransformation of oils stating that it is true. He theorized that you could put the dry hops in before you even pitch the yeast to really get a good transformation. I don't pull my dry hops or transfer to a secondary so I throw them in around day 5-6, leave for 5-6 days then keg with some more hops in the keg (bagged). If you can pull your dry hops or transfer off the first dry hop try throwing them in earlier. I believe Brau does add them with a few points left and then transferred to a keg for the second dry hop.

The science behind it is (and this is straight from Janish) geraniol is transformed into citronellol (sweet citrus fruit like aroma) and linalool was converted to terpineol (lilac aroma is the best descriptor). I've thought about doing one of my next brews with hops high in geraniol (Centennial, Mosaic, Simcoe) for the first dry hop addition and then switching it up to the more fruity known hops (Mosaic, Galaxy, Citra, Nelson, El Dorado etc) for the second go around.

So did I do a huge mistake going all Falconer's Flight with this recipe?

It's reported to have Citra, Simcoe and Sorachi Ace and then some other experimental hop varieties if I recall correctly.

 

[lilbova3]

So did I do a huge mistake going all Falconer's Flight with this recipe?



It's reported to have Citra, Simcoe and Sorachi Ace and then some other experimental hop varieties if I recall correctly.

You didn't make a huge mistake! There's nothing wrong with using other hops. Some of the other hops listed and the ones Brau has highlighted may come out more fruity and tropical but there's nothing wrong with using other hops. The beer will just come out different. You may like it!

 

[VT_jlee]

Brewed my first beer inspired by this thread. WOW is this good!! Super bright hops, dry maltiness, so crushable which is dangerous since it came it at near 8%. Here's my recipe http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/379265/citra-mosaic-galaxy-ne-ipa

 

[BrunDog]

Got mine into the final keg today. As noted above, I didn't use an intermediate keg for the second dry hop. This sample was straight up morning glass of OJ! Can't wait to see what carbonation and the second dry hops in the keg do! Will report back!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1472699358.305256.jpg

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

I taste tested mine with moderate levels of carbonation last night. Looks pretty good, smells pretty good. Here are my taste observations.

1. I think I over-did it on the gypsum (I accidentally used a Tablespoon instead of Tea spoon) the bitterness is in the foreground of the taste.
2. Balanced hopiness but falls a bit flat on the fruity notes. I can attribute that to the emergency use of US-05.
3. At 35*F its a little bit one dimensional (Galaxy definitely overpowers the Citra) but when it warms up to around 40*F the other hops come out to play
4. Mouthfeel was not crisp, but again pretty well balanced. I imagine when the carbonation is up to snuff, it might go towards the "Bitey" end of the spectrum. Will find out.

All-in-All its a good beer. Not what I was hoping for, but thats my fault not the recipe. I hit all my numbers with the exception of Post boil/Post chill OG being off by 3 points but that was because I brewed a little bit more than I had to.

So verdict... Will I make it again? Yes. I see everyone raving about this beer and I can taste and see the potential in it. I will hopefully not get DOA yeast the next time and I will not make any mistakes with my water additions. With that, I'm certain when I make this again, it will be even better!