New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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PartagasD4
Well-Known Member
I brewed this beer and basically only changed the hops
I hit mash pH at 5.45 and used hops that I needed to use up from 2014.
Columbus at 15 for a little bitterness. Then equal parts Amarillo, Centennial and Cascade.
Great recipe Braufessor! this is 1 fantastic beer !
I am going to brew this again, I still need to use up my Citra, Mosaic and plenty of Amarillo from 2014
I hit mash pH at 5.45 and used hops that I needed to use up from 2014.
Columbus at 15 for a little bitterness. Then equal parts Amarillo, Centennial and Cascade.
Great recipe Braufessor! this is 1 fantastic beer !
I am going to brew this again, I still need to use up my Citra, Mosaic and plenty of Amarillo from 2014
OP
OP
I brewed this beer and basically only changed the hops
View attachment 340184
I hit mash pH at 5.45 and used hops that I needed to use up from 2014.
Columbus at 15 for a little bitterness. Then equal parts Amarillo, Centennial and Cascade.
Great recipe Braufessor! this is 1 fantastic beer !
I am going to brew this again, I still need to use up my Citra, Mosaic and plenty of Amarillo from 2014
Looks awesome. Glad it turned out for you.
Hi Braufessor,
First, I'd like to thank you for sharing your recipe and expertise with us. I've got a question: When I enter the water profile listed in the recipe, B'run says there is a cation/anion imbalance (7.0 and 6.2, respectively). Is this to be expected?
Thanks,
John
First, I'd like to thank you for sharing your recipe and expertise with us. I've got a question: When I enter the water profile listed in the recipe, B'run says there is a cation/anion imbalance (7.0 and 6.2, respectively). Is this to be expected?
Thanks,
John
moreb33rplz
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It would be funny if the yeast guy from the other thread was really just making all that stuff up and laughing.
Brau have you used wyeast 1318 in this recipe before? Did the top cropping yeast effect your first dry hop at all and by that I mean with the cake basically sitting on top of the beer did you find less dry hop effect. I ordered some 1318 to try in an IPA and I like the initial 5 day first dry hop but I'm wondering as I've read you can break up the yeast to let it sink and wonder if I shouldn't do that first then dry hop. Curious as I've never used 1318 or any top cropping yeast before and don't want to waste the hops if I'm not maximizing their use.
I use 1318 quite often in this style of beer. I usually dry hop on day 9 or so when the krausen is still pretty thick. I just pour all of my hops together in the same spot so the weight of the hops break through. I rock the carboy gently a few times a day for the next 3-5 days until it's time to bottle. No issues with the hops making it through the beer in my experiences.
Good to know thanks.
What are you fg's on these beers. Mine is projected at 1.014 and I'm kinda fine with that usually I hit 1.010 but I'm going for something diff with this yeast so I don't want to add dextrose as I do for even beers with Conan more so it attenuates.
OP
OP
I have not used 1318 on this..... I know many have used it successfully in beers like this though.
Cool. I ordered some just to try in an IPA im brewing in a couple weeks.
I'm terrible with taking notes when I brew. That said, I will be bottling a brew of my DIPA that I used 1318 in this afternoon and I will be sure to update the thread with the FG. I'm not sure how much help that will be though, as I used 1# of sugar, which has become common practice for me in my higher gravity hoppy beers.
orangehero
Well-Known Member
What is the rationale for doing the second dry hop in a seperate vessel? For example why don't you do both dry hop additions in the primary fermentor and purge the headspace with a blast of CO2? I understand extended time on the first dry hops could extract unwanted flavors, but I'm not sure another 3 days is enough for that to happen to any significant extent.
I made this recipe a few days ago and trying to come up with a double dry hop regimen for someone who bottles.
I made this recipe a few days ago and trying to come up with a double dry hop regimen for someone who bottles.
OP
OP
I do it for a couple reasons -
1.) Getting the beer/hops off the yeast.
2.) 6 ounces of hops in boil kettle, 3 more ounces in fermenter....... throwing another 3 ounces in the fermenter and then transferring to a serving keg ...... I have found I get hop debris going into my serving keg which "might" effect flavor, and almost certainly gives the possibility of plugging up the liquid post - not fun.
3.) In my experience, it is a good strategy to get clean, very freshly hopped beer into the serving keg, via a fairly closed system with little effort.
If I bottled, I very likely would just double dry hop in the primary and probably cold crash to help drop hop debris out of suspension if needed.
OP
OP
Sorry I missed this..... I will have to look at my B'run Water spreadsheet, I am not sure if that is a reasonable difference off the top of my head. Generally, they should balance fairly closely I believe.
OP
OP
Update of my own.... just did dry hop #2 on a recent experimental batch. Same as usual. But, hops for the first 3 additions were:
2 ounces Azacca
.5 ounces Citra
.5 ounces Mosaic
Did this for 2 additions in boil kettle and the first dry hop.
VERY underwhelmed with the Azacca. Actually contemplated dumping it when I sampled it a few days after first dry hop. It kind of came around and so I am going to finish it out. The Azacca gave me none of the "juicy/tropical" type thing I was hoping for. Kind of gave a sharper hop flavor like centennial or cascade maybe. At any rate, I did move it to dry hop keg last night. Instead of doing a 4th addition with the Azacca, I made the final addition 1.5 ounces each of Citra and Mosaic - hope it kind of overpowers the Azacca.
At any rate, not recommending that version at this point. Luckily, I have my standard Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy version on tap and another batch of that one at about day 8 in the fermenter.
2 ounces Azacca
.5 ounces Citra
.5 ounces Mosaic
Did this for 2 additions in boil kettle and the first dry hop.
VERY underwhelmed with the Azacca. Actually contemplated dumping it when I sampled it a few days after first dry hop. It kind of came around and so I am going to finish it out. The Azacca gave me none of the "juicy/tropical" type thing I was hoping for. Kind of gave a sharper hop flavor like centennial or cascade maybe. At any rate, I did move it to dry hop keg last night. Instead of doing a 4th addition with the Azacca, I made the final addition 1.5 ounces each of Citra and Mosaic - hope it kind of overpowers the Azacca.
At any rate, not recommending that version at this point. Luckily, I have my standard Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy version on tap and another batch of that one at about day 8 in the fermenter.
I've found the same thing with azacca, described as tropical and I got none of that in fact it was very muted, not one I think I'd ever use again.
I've used em once and didn't really care for them it was an azacca/el dorado IPA and was pretty underwhelming. To me it seems it's a delicate hop not one of these in your face types like Citra, galaxy or mosaic which I prefer more.
surgical_ass
Well-Known Member
The one azacca ipa I had I too was underwhelmed with I agree that it is a subtle hop probably not well suited for this style
brennanj11
Well-Known Member
BF,
I've read most of this thread, was wondering if you had used some combination of Nelson Sauvin Hop in this? As much as I like the over-the-top juicy/citrusy/tropical Pales and IPAs, I think I want to leverage the hop scheduling with more of a mix of flavors and aromas. (Simcoe/Nelson | Galaxy/Simcoe/Centennial)
Oh, any quick tips for reducing oxidation when bottling or this an un-avoidable shortcoming?
Also, thank you for those yeast management threads. Confirming some conflicting behavior(no stir plate, smaller starter, pitching entire starter) I had been doing this past year.
I've read most of this thread, was wondering if you had used some combination of Nelson Sauvin Hop in this? As much as I like the over-the-top juicy/citrusy/tropical Pales and IPAs, I think I want to leverage the hop scheduling with more of a mix of flavors and aromas. (Simcoe/Nelson | Galaxy/Simcoe/Centennial)
Oh, any quick tips for reducing oxidation when bottling or this an un-avoidable shortcoming?
Also, thank you for those yeast management threads. Confirming some conflicting behavior(no stir plate, smaller starter, pitching entire starter) I had been doing this past year.
orangehero
Well-Known Member
Try using a potassium metabisulfite solution as your bottling sanitizer.
surgical_ass
Well-Known Member
What category would you enter this style ipa under?SPECIFICATIONS:
OG 1.055
FG 1.011
IBU's...... 30-35 from bittering, not sure of utilization from all the late addition hops. Perception is much more than 35 IBU's though.
SRM 4
ABV 5.3% - This is definitely more of a "session" IPA - but, the heavy late hops and full body really make it drink like a regular IPA without the 6-8%+ abv of a lot of the popular IPA's and DIPA's
**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.
6.5 gallons post boil
5.75 gallons into fermenter
5 gallons into keg
GRAIN BILL:
% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary)
44% Rahr 2 Row ( 5 lbs)
44% Golden Promise (or similar.... Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs)
4% Flaked Oats (1/2 lb)
4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)
2% Wheat (1/4 lb)
2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)
60 minute mash @152-154)
HOPS:
**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior
**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic
**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.
Chill to 62 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of true and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).
**Dry Hop #1- At day 5-7 - add the following to primary fermenter:
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html )
Day 14-15 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low.
WATER PROFILE:
I use 80% RO water, 20% Hard (Carbon Filtered) tap water in Mash, 87% RO in sparge water:
I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -
Gypsum = .2 grams/gallon
CaCl = .6 grams/gallon
Epsom = .1 gram/gallon
Canning Salt = .2 grams/gallon
Lactic Acid = .5ml/gallon mash, .25 ml/gallon sparge ( I am using 5 gallons mash water and 6 gallons sparge water).
Using B'run Water
Ca = 96
Mg = 12
Na = 28
Sulfate = 67
Chloride = 128
Bicarbonate = 70
Mash pH = 5.37-5.42
Final runnings pH = 5.60
Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45
Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35
Water Profile - the simple solution:
***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:
100% RO water for both mash and sparge.
Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum
Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum
This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.
This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.
ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:
1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams
1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams
1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams
1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams
FERMENTATION
Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this.
I tend to start fermentation off around 62 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.
OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:
I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior, and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.
The water is important for getting this "style" of IPA. It is important to go higher on chloride and lower on gypsum (I think). I also ...... and I don't know exactly why...... have had more success including some my high bicarbonate water and using lactic acid to shoot for pH in the 5.4 range (as opposed to a lower pH).
I have found this strategy to get very much in the ball park of these types of beers...... Hazy, full bodied, juicy/fruity hops.
OP
OP
Well, I enter a fair number of competitions..... but I have never entered this. I love drinking it, but I fear it would get demolished on "appearance" as a lot of people..... especially those concerned about "style" really seem to have a bad opinion about hazy/cloudy IPA's. I will enter it at some point for sure though, just out of curiosity. I guess I would probably go with IPA (at least for my version) as it is only 1.055 gravity, but very hoppy. I suppose you could go with some specialty IPA category or even possibly the category 34 "Clone Beer" category perhaps???
Appearance is only worth 3 points and will not make or break the beer in judging. If the aroma and flavor are spot on, the beer will do well, even if given a 1 for appearance (unlikely).
I entered a very similar IPA recently. My deviations were some bitterness from a 15min addition and my whirlpool is strictly < 180F (5oz). Warrior as the 60min hop, Topaz/Mosaic as the 15min hops, and a blend of Topaz/Mosaic/Azacca in the whirlpool/dryhop.
Scored a 32 (2/3) for appearance. Dings were for somewhat astringent bitterness and hop flavor overwhelming the malt character. Next time I am going to drop the 15min additions entirely.
OP
OP
True - but that assumes the judge does not take one look at the beer an sort of just mentally put it in the "not going to medal" category. Unfortunately, I think that happens. Like I said, I will likely try to enter this beer in some comps..... My prediction is:
30-35, "Great aroma, nice hop flavor. Beer could use a bit more carbonation, and perhaps consider your water profile and add more gypsum to bring out the hops. Try some gelatin/cold crashing to clear it up and this beer would be a medal winner."
30-35, "Great aroma, nice hop flavor. Beer could use a bit more carbonation, and perhaps consider your water profile and add more gypsum to bring out the hops. Try some gelatin/cold crashing to clear it up and this beer would be a medal winner."
PartagasD4
Well-Known Member
Can you go into a little more detail on this, l have heard of people using ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. How strong of a solution does 1 use.
orangehero
Well-Known Member
Personally I haven't tried it yet, but I will on my new batch. Adding sulfites to extend shelf life of beer is not an uncommon practice in commercial brewing (as long as they don't add more than 8 ppm they aren't legally bound to disclose the addition of sulfites).
You can use anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 3 tablespoons of potassium metabisulfite dissolved in a gallon of water to be used as a sanitizer. If your equipment and environment is clean I would use less than more. I would avoid the use of acids.
You can use anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 3 tablespoons of potassium metabisulfite dissolved in a gallon of water to be used as a sanitizer. If your equipment and environment is clean I would use less than more. I would avoid the use of acids.
PartagasD4
Well-Known Member
Thanks
I've long suspected that if a person were to secretly enter heady topper into a comp, judges would be all weird about the appearance, and ask for chico yeast instead.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
There is a reason appearance is only worth 3 points, but there are definitely those who would destroy the beer in all categories on a judging form after seeing it "because turbid IPAs don't fit the style"
surgical_ass
Well-Known Member
Well time will tell how the judges will rate it. I entered my version of the northeast ipa in the national comp. I entered it under the specialty ipa section white ipa. Got an lb of wheat so I figure it's legitimate.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
Let us know how they take it. I'd love to see the scoresheet you get back too. Good luck (I'm planning on entering a couple beers next year)
brennanj11
Well-Known Member
Orange hero was this directed to my question about hop aroma and bottling?
Can you elaborate on what this would accomplish?
orangehero
Well-Known Member
Attenuate oxidation rate of hop derived compounds.
Didn't have the preferred yeast or all of the ideal grain but digging the flavor and color on this one. 2.25 gallon batch.
93% 2 Row
7% Oats
1 oz Citra FO, 1.5 oz Citra WP, 2 oz Citra DH, 1 oz Amarillo DH. Small bittering charge with Columbus.
US 05
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457440542.125130.jpg
93% 2 Row
7% Oats
1 oz Citra FO, 1.5 oz Citra WP, 2 oz Citra DH, 1 oz Amarillo DH. Small bittering charge with Columbus.
US 05
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457440542.125130.jpg
LJvermonster
Well-Known Member
I have to say, that is simply a perfect looking beer. I straight up judge that book by its cover!
Thanks, LJvermonster!
I will say I didn't get much dank from the Citra which is a little upsetting. In commercial beers I get some dank quality from Citra. There is lots of hops flavor though!
