I agree, I like notty or wyeast 1084 for my stouts. I also like ringwood wyeast 1187.
English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?
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Most expressive dry yeast I've had, really really fruity. If you like that in a stout, that's the one for you. For me, s04 is better.
tennesseean_87
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I've been thinking of doing the same thing. I usually go cleaner on dark beers, but thinking about trying this really fruity yeast I liked in bitter and Hazy recipes.
DuncB
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I've just made a stout using similar ingredients to the Siren brewery Broken dream stout. But have left out the lactose and coffee and less gravity.
They ferment with their Own Vermont ale yeast. I had a packet of Lallemand East coast ale yeast in the fridge and so gave that a go. Fermented at 19 going up to 22.
Hydrometer tastings have been promising but a few more days before kegging yet and then when my other keg kicks of stout it's going on Nitro. Will update at packaging stage for a non nitro low carbed impression.
They ferment with their Own Vermont ale yeast. I had a packet of Lallemand East coast ale yeast in the fridge and so gave that a go. Fermented at 19 going up to 22.
Hydrometer tastings have been promising but a few more days before kegging yet and then when my other keg kicks of stout it's going on Nitro. Will update at packaging stage for a non nitro low carbed impression.
The yeast I use as my British house strain goes well in stouts/darker ales. Granted I keep temps on the lower side during the first phase of fermentation, especially if using sugar, and it only throws light, subtle fruity notes in that case.
I guess it depends on what type of fruitiness you get from it, subtle "darker" fruity flavours blend pretty well, but as I understand it, Verdant/LA3 throws more tropical fruit esters that might be a little mismatched with a stout.
I guess it depends on what type of fruitiness you get from it, subtle "darker" fruity flavours blend pretty well, but as I understand it, Verdant/LA3 throws more tropical fruit esters that might be a little mismatched with a stout.
deere322
Former Sloper
Dry Stout brewed yesterday and is fermenting with Verdant.
When I left for work this morning it was fermenting away with a small krausen.
I'll report back after it's kegged and carb'd.
When I left for work this morning it was fermenting away with a small krausen.
I'll report back after it's kegged and carb'd.
When you'll be back it will be crawling out of the air lock
.I had the idea of brewing a tropical stout with this yeast, really sweet, not too many ibus and about 5.5% abv. Mashed really high for high fg. That's going to be my next brew
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I know I'm late to the party on this but I prefer malty WY1450 Dennys or ultra-clean WY1007 for my dry stout. Color me traditionalist I guess.
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Notty works well for a dry stout too!
monkeymath
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In what sense are these yeast strains more "traditional" than other choices?
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Wy1007 will be dryer, and WY1450 maltier, than the fruitier verdant strain. IMO.
So, my #2 invert has arrived, and my mail-ordered from Canada First Gold hops are on their way as well. I expect an English Ale in my future once my California Common gets out of the fermenter. Currently I've been brewing (with slight rounding):
Base = Maris Otter
4% = Victory
6% = Medium Crystal
2% = Dark Crystal
Hops always include EKG, the last round was 50/50 First Gold and EKG throughout (some at boil, some at 15min, some at flame-out)
Using invert #2, let's say 5% for starters to get my feet wet, I'm assuming this is measured by weight? Would I replace the base grain with it, the Crystal, or some of each?
For the First Gold & EKG, does it make sense to combo them throughout or should I be focusing on one over the other at certain steps (i.e. OMG you fool never boil EKG or never late hop first gold)?
Base = Maris Otter
4% = Victory
6% = Medium Crystal
2% = Dark Crystal
Hops always include EKG, the last round was 50/50 First Gold and EKG throughout (some at boil, some at 15min, some at flame-out)
Using invert #2, let's say 5% for starters to get my feet wet, I'm assuming this is measured by weight? Would I replace the base grain with it, the Crystal, or some of each?
For the First Gold & EKG, does it make sense to combo them throughout or should I be focusing on one over the other at certain steps (i.e. OMG you fool never boil EKG or never late hop first gold)?
I'd replace base malt with the invert at a 1:1 ratio with the crystal, measured by weight.
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sad to say i had to think about that almost as much as I used to when I first started looking at POSIX shell scripts about 7 million years ago...
I don’t know what that means, but same.
Late to the cricket ground here due to a sticky wicket getting my knickers in a twist. I have brewed this a few times and love it. The GNO's give it a slightly silky mouthfeel which balances the dry/bitter aspects of the beer so it isn't harsh, and the head almost looks like a nitro pour.
British Golden Ale
46.3% Great West High Color Pale
46.3% Crisp Maris Otter
4.6% Golden Naked Oats
2.8% Victory
Mashed at 152* for 2 hrs (Errands: I was out of Earl Grey and blood pudding...sue me)
Hops are a mix of Warrior, Cascade and EKG. See the link
WLP007 pitched and fermented at 60* for a few days then finished out at laundry (room) temp.
1.051 - 1.008
Kegged with dextrose solution for natural carb for a week or so, then chilled to serving temp.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1138994/-2021-04-08-british-golden
British Golden Ale
46.3% Great West High Color Pale
46.3% Crisp Maris Otter
4.6% Golden Naked Oats
2.8% Victory
Mashed at 152* for 2 hrs (Errands: I was out of Earl Grey and blood pudding...sue me)
Hops are a mix of Warrior, Cascade and EKG. See the link
WLP007 pitched and fermented at 60* for a few days then finished out at laundry (room) temp.
1.051 - 1.008
Kegged with dextrose solution for natural carb for a week or so, then chilled to serving temp.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1138994/-2021-04-08-british-golden
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Two "withs" scrambled my brain.
Sub A with B at 1:1 with C
"Sub base malt with invert; use as much wt invert as you have wt of crystal in the recipe"
That's what I think at least that you are saying.
And trust me, it's my brain that's the problem.
Sub A with B at 1:1 with C
"Sub base malt with invert; use as much wt invert as you have wt of crystal in the recipe"
That's what I think at least that you are saying.
And trust me, it's my brain that's the problem.
I think I see what you're suggesting. Something like this:
FROM
88% = Maris Otter
4% = Victory
6% = Medium Crystal
2% = Dark Crystal
TO
80% = Maris Otter
8% = Invert
4% = Victory
6% = Medium Crystal
2% = Dark Crystal
%'s by weight.
14th_vermont
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Love ESB especially cask ESB on a hand pump. I just posted a comment on thread titled cask beer ( sought of )OK, so it seems almost everyone is into the make-your-nose-run hop forward double, triple and quaduruple IPA's with IBU's over 100. That's fine if you like it. But personally, I enjoy traditional English beers. I get a lot of enjoyment from a very good common bitters, porter, SB or ESB. English beers provide a comfortable easy drinking beer that I can enjoy through an entire evening. Perhaps there are others here who feel the same way.
Would you care to share your favorite recipe? And why do you like this beer?
Thanks to all who care to contribute their views and their recipes.
Cheers!
I'd ditch the victory, that sort of lightly toasty flavour suits a best or strong bitter better imo.
Maybe sub witha small bit of some demerara or light muscovado sugar instead? To add a little complexity, lighten up the body and enchance ester character of the yeast
So I brewed up a Brown Ale almost 2 weeks ago, my estimated boil off in the new kettle was a bit too much, since I had to remove the kettle from the induction plate and do immersion heater only because it boiled too violently with both, have recalculated my coming recipes with the new values though.
This lead to a slightly larger post boil volume and lower OG than predicted.
Secondly I was a bit distracted while heating the the strike water, resulting in an initial mash temp of 70-71, I got it down to 66 but it took a good 10 min.
Thirdly I pitched only one pack of yeast for a 20L batch, so I think a slight underpitch in combination with a too warmstart of the mash lead the beer to have an AA of only 68%, 1.042-1.013. Will definitely be more watchful when heating strike water in the future and always pitch 2 packs for my larger batches.
It tasted decent though so perhaps I can just call it a Brown Mild?
This lead to a slightly larger post boil volume and lower OG than predicted.
Secondly I was a bit distracted while heating the the strike water, resulting in an initial mash temp of 70-71, I got it down to 66 but it took a good 10 min.
Thirdly I pitched only one pack of yeast for a 20L batch, so I think a slight underpitch in combination with a too warmstart of the mash lead the beer to have an AA of only 68%, 1.042-1.013. Will definitely be more watchful when heating strike water in the future and always pitch 2 packs for my larger batches.
It tasted decent though so perhaps I can just call it a Brown Mild?
That is a perfectly fine attenuation for an English Ale! The taste will reflect that.
Yeah I know but I was shooting for a little higher OG and maybe like 5% more AA for a little stronger and drier finish than I got.
Then it's even better that the attenuation is a bit higher. A bit more flavour from the residual sugars a little less flavour from the lower efficiency, a bit of balancing.
Hmm, I have been thinking the same. I always think I love Victory, I crunch on a few grains when I'm measuring it into my recipe at the LHBS and I have in mind that I love it in beer as well. But I keep wondering if I should be using it. I don't intend to ask anyone to write a book here but is there a sort of simple guide as to when to use or not use it (we could call it biscuit malt too). Maybe a link to a previously written guide?
I was going to suggest dropping it given your use of MO as a base. Decided to leave it alone as you're about to judge the affect of invert on a previously brewed recipe. Changing one item at a time is best.
From what I gather, the addition of biscuit, Munich, etc, is a way to mimic the goodness UK while using basic US 2-row. Those sorts of additions are a quick giveaway that you're looking at an American recipe. I've learned to seek UK information and recipes while brewing UK styles.
monkeymath
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I'm not sure if I'd say (not too sure whether you are actually implying it) these "specialty grains" mimic the delta between Maris Otter and plain 2-row, but generally I feel that if you use a "fancy base grain" such as MO, you should give it an opportunity to show itself. If you mix in Victory, Munich, unicorn tears and what have you, you might as well just use any plain old Pale Ale malt.
There is, however, that voice in the back of my head that says you might as well always use MO in your English-style ales, whether it's apparent or not, since you will hardly notice the additional expense it induces over a generic Pale Ale malt.
I'm not saying or implying they do, just that many US brewers use them as if they do.
Mimic, maybe. Achieve, no.
I get what you guys are saying, no worries.
Thinking back over my brewing history I have used Victory as a sub for "biscuit" malt in certain recipes, intending to... bring an English flavor. It'd be funny if that backfired.
Thinking back over my brewing history I have used Victory as a sub for "biscuit" malt in certain recipes, intending to... bring an English flavor. It'd be funny if that backfired.
Victory is a biscuit-type malt. Briess' brand.
If I were to use a biscuit malt in a UK style, it'd be an UK maltster's amber. Different maltsters producing different ambers of different colo(u)rs and flavo(u)rs of course.
If I were to use a biscuit malt in a UK style, it'd be an UK maltster's amber. Different maltsters producing different ambers of different colo(u)rs and flavo(u)rs of course.
Gus_13
Cul de Sac Brewer
I really need to get or make some invert. A while back I did an experiment where I boiled down some of my wort after the mash to a thick syrup and added it back as the rest was coming to a boil. It smelled like brownies and toffee. I really liked what it brought to the beer. I called it my "Yorkshire Bitter" as I read that's what Samuel Smith's Old Brewery Bitter was brewed like. I really need to do that beer again. I used Yorkshire Square yeast back then but think the Burton yeast would work with it as well.
Tbf, I use a dash of Crisp's amber in my Best Bitter recipe.
But I think Amber from some maltster who make it darker would be too strong with the toastyness.
I find a spot of amber always provides a great background note.
Question on invert. I ordered some #3 a week ago and was planning on using it today. When I open the container it wasn't a liquid. It seems to had solidified. Would it still be usable? I did have some #2 on hand and used that but that wasn't really what I had planned.
duncan_disorderly
Well-Known Member
From the Ragus website:
"Brewer's Sugar No. 3: This can be produced as a fully inverted (glucose-fructose mixture) syrup or seeded into a crystalline block. It's is 95% readily fermentable, with a dark brown colour (120-140 EBC) and rich flavour. It's used in mild ale, stouts and porters."
Speaking of invert and amber malt, I've got a Best Bitter fermenting now using both, brewed saturday night (pitched a little after midnight) and by dinner yesterday ut had accelerated up to full speed. Currently at 19c, gonna raise to 20 when I come home from work.
MO as base
8% invert #3
4% T. Wheat
4% Crisp Amber
3% Crystal 240 ebc
Mashed at 66c/60 min
90 min boil with Challenger as bittering at 60
10.5g @15
21g each of Challenger and Styrian Goldings B for a 20min/80c hopstand
22.7L post boil and about 20L in the bucket.
OG 1.043( aimed for 1.042)
IBU a bit over 30, did not account for the stand and got a little less boil off than anticipated, still got a few tweaks to be done with the new larger kettle, but I should land at about 0.8 bu:gu.
MO as base
8% invert #3
4% T. Wheat
4% Crisp Amber
3% Crystal 240 ebc
Mashed at 66c/60 min
90 min boil with Challenger as bittering at 60
10.5g @15
21g each of Challenger and Styrian Goldings B for a 20min/80c hopstand
22.7L post boil and about 20L in the bucket.
OG 1.043( aimed for 1.042)
IBU a bit over 30, did not account for the stand and got a little less boil off than anticipated, still got a few tweaks to be done with the new larger kettle, but I should land at about 0.8 bu:gu.
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What's the yeast?
A Swedish manufactured yeast by Brewly, the house brand of a Swedish online HBS.
Likely manufactured by Jästbolaget on contract, and some sort of Windsor relative.
I have started using it as my house yeast for Brittish/English ales.
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