It's a pretty similar grist to my last stout recipe!
English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?
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American Brown Ale. Double Brown Ale. Stout Brown Ale. Stout. 
I've brewed this before. The chocolate rye isn't nearly as roasty as the same amount of chocolate malt.
Don't worry, I'm under no impression that this is anything like an English recipe. It's just in my series of WLP-037 that I've been tracking here.
I've brewed this before. The chocolate rye isn't nearly as roasty as the same amount of chocolate malt.
Don't worry, I'm under no impression that this is anything like an English recipe. It's just in my series of WLP-037 that I've been tracking here.
I'm going to brew a beer with chocolate rye soon, @Protos good me into it in the kveik thread.American Brown Ale. Double Brown Ale. Stout Brown Ale. Stout.
I've brewed this before. The chocolate rye isn't nearly as roasty as the same amount of chocolate malt.
Don't worry, I'm under no impression that this is anything like an English recipe. It's just in my series of WLP-037 that I've been tracking here.
I've just opened the first bottle (way too early, still very green) of a bitter I brewed with about 5% crystal rye. Pretty promising already, now I'm finally able to taste the rye. Something different but it somehow fits. I'm looking forward to seeing how this one tastes when the different tastes came together through some aging.
user 263363
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This is my best British beer I’ve brewed yet. It’s a dark mild with:
80% Maris Otter
7% Brown Malt
7% Pale Chocolate
7% Victory
13 IBUs of Challenger at 60 minutes
7 IBUs of EKG at 10 minutes
A09 Pub
Came out to be 3.5% and is so flavorful with good mouthfeel. It’s got a creaminess that I just absolutely love. None of the malts overpower. The pub yeast just gives it the perfect British -ness.
80% Maris Otter
7% Brown Malt
7% Pale Chocolate
7% Victory
13 IBUs of Challenger at 60 minutes
7 IBUs of EKG at 10 minutes
A09 Pub
Came out to be 3.5% and is so flavorful with good mouthfeel. It’s got a creaminess that I just absolutely love. None of the malts overpower. The pub yeast just gives it the perfect British -ness.
hout17
Crush it REAL Good
Looks great!
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
user 263363
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Thanks! The beer was crystal clear going in to the keg, but 3 weeks in and it still has a major chill haze that won’t go away. If I could get past that, it would be even better visually.
Let it come up to ale temperatures of 12 to 14 celsius, might do the trick!
Anybody got any feedback on a brew I plan for the weekend after next?
Intend to do a sort of Old Peculier inspired stronger, dark ale, not a clone but something along the same lines but with my own touch.
Will be kegged and then matured/conditioned for about 2 months before serving.
OG 1.055
FG 1.014-ish
IBU 37
Abv about 5.5 or thereabouts
GP as base, 4% Simpson light crystal, 3% DRC, 4% Simpson Chocolate malt, 8% invert 3 added late boil. 68c/60 min mash and fermented with Verdant/Liberty Bell, will make a small starter to reach a pitch rate of about 1m cells/ml/P.
Hops will be challenger as bittering, EKG 0.5g/ Lfor 20 min and 0.5g/L of Styrian Goldings/Bobek thrown in with the yeast.
Have not really decided yet if I should go with chocolate or black malt, kinda leaning towards switching chocolate to black, same amount.
Intend to do a sort of Old Peculier inspired stronger, dark ale, not a clone but something along the same lines but with my own touch.
Will be kegged and then matured/conditioned for about 2 months before serving.
OG 1.055
FG 1.014-ish
IBU 37
Abv about 5.5 or thereabouts
GP as base, 4% Simpson light crystal, 3% DRC, 4% Simpson Chocolate malt, 8% invert 3 added late boil. 68c/60 min mash and fermented with Verdant/Liberty Bell, will make a small starter to reach a pitch rate of about 1m cells/ml/P.
Hops will be challenger as bittering, EKG 0.5g/ Lfor 20 min and 0.5g/L of Styrian Goldings/Bobek thrown in with the yeast.
Have not really decided yet if I should go with chocolate or black malt, kinda leaning towards switching chocolate to black, same amount.
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I don't like chocolate, so I always would prefer black over chocolate. Regarding the rest, sounds nice to me.
Black malt it is then, I like chocolate malt but I am not really after that flavour in this one. More looking for a dark- ish colour and a little dry roasted finish in the beer.
4% black might be overkill for color. I use 2% black to 98% base in my Traquair approximation. It's very dark. You have to hold it up to the light to see the rich ruby red.
Keep in mind this is a much lower gravity than the Traquair.
Fair enough. You've also got the DRC and #3 adding their color.
I'm sure it will be tasty.
I'm sure it will be tasty.
Standard black malt, or debittered? I find myself quite sensitive to black malt in almost any style so my personal lean would be towards chocolate rye to possibly put a bit of twist on it. I might slightly up the DRC and slightly lower the black/patent/choc/whatever you end up using slightly.
Either grainbill would be good in my eyes. My only concern would be the value of adding good hops to the FV in a malty beer that would benefit significantly from a chloride forward liquor profile. I find sulfate and/or lack of chloride in dark beers can make some darker malts quite bitter.
I decided to go with Chocolate since black malt might make it a wee bit too dark. Gonna go with my porter/stout profile, 300 mg/L Cl, 80mg So4, 70-85 mg Na.
Or my Mild/Brown Ale profile wich is 230 mg Cl, 140mg So4 and 50mg Na.
Both are slightly tweaked variants of Graham Wheeler profiles.
Have been looking at some clone recipes for Old Peculier and most feature a small dry hop, and I have a couple kilos that needs using so why not?
Or my Mild/Brown Ale profile wich is 230 mg Cl, 140mg So4 and 50mg Na.
Both are slightly tweaked variants of Graham Wheeler profiles.
Have been looking at some clone recipes for Old Peculier and most feature a small dry hop, and I have a couple kilos that needs using so why not?
Plugged it all in to Beersmith, and it estimates color to just above 50 EBC.
The color contribution of invert is often a bit overestimated in my experience, so it will likely be a wee bit lighter, but oto OP looks kinda black unless held directly to a light source and since it will be an OP inspired brew it should come out about where I want it.
Will go with my mild profile for water, a bit of sulfate but still cloride forward liqour.
@DBhomebrew @cire
The color contribution of invert is often a bit overestimated in my experience, so it will likely be a wee bit lighter, but oto OP looks kinda black unless held directly to a light source and since it will be an OP inspired brew it should come out about where I want it.
Will go with my mild profile for water, a bit of sulfate but still cloride forward liqour.
@DBhomebrew @cire
The stout got bottled last weekend, 35 0.5L bottles.
Might do a slightly altered re-brew of it with the OG bumped up to 1.070 since this came out a bit too weak for a proper late victorian Brown Stout, and then compare wich I prefer.
Guess I could always call this one a victorian porter or inter war era Brown Stout...
Might do a slightly altered re-brew of it with the OG bumped up to 1.070 since this came out a bit too weak for a proper late victorian Brown Stout, and then compare wich I prefer.
Guess I could always call this one a victorian porter or inter war era Brown Stout...
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Just a note to advise that Darkstar Brewery has. now made available a rebrew of Gale's Prize Old Ale. Martyn Cornell provides the details far more eloquently and knowledgeably that I could. Rush out now and buy as much Gale’s Prize Old Ale as you can
The initial bottling sold out very quickly, but there will be another 1300 bottles made available on December 2 on the brewery web shop
The initial bottling sold out very quickly, but there will be another 1300 bottles made available on December 2 on the brewery web shop
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monkeymath
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Since I always jump between various styles and never make the same thing, I have a tendency to attempt to incorporate every trick into my brews - and then struggle to really learn anything from my experiments.
I plan to brew a bitter using the homemade "invert no2"-ish sugar syrup I made earlier this year and this time I want to keep it as simple as possible, while still making a delicious beer. It should be pale, grainy, biscuity, with substantial floral and fruity aromas from hops and yeast, with no flavour sticking out too much.
Rough idea: 11 deg plato (1.044 OG), 25-30 IBU, Warminster Maris Otter as base. A good amount (10% by weight? Too much?) of the sugar syrup. Maybe a bit of Warminster crystal malt to maintain body and head retention, but I'm not dead set on that. Mix of EKG and Bramling Cross with roughly 30g total at 15" and 0" each (and a bittering addition at 60" to hit the target IBU). Ferment with either M36 Liberty Bell or WY1469 at the slightly cooler end of things, 17-18 °C.
Bad idea and I should feel bad? Or suggestions to fill in the details?
I plan to brew a bitter using the homemade "invert no2"-ish sugar syrup I made earlier this year and this time I want to keep it as simple as possible, while still making a delicious beer. It should be pale, grainy, biscuity, with substantial floral and fruity aromas from hops and yeast, with no flavour sticking out too much.
Rough idea: 11 deg plato (1.044 OG), 25-30 IBU, Warminster Maris Otter as base. A good amount (10% by weight? Too much?) of the sugar syrup. Maybe a bit of Warminster crystal malt to maintain body and head retention, but I'm not dead set on that. Mix of EKG and Bramling Cross with roughly 30g total at 15" and 0" each (and a bittering addition at 60" to hit the target IBU). Ferment with either M36 Liberty Bell or WY1469 at the slightly cooler end of things, 17-18 °C.
Bad idea and I should feel bad? Or suggestions to fill in the details?
That sounds nice, I'd drop the gravity down to 1.040 and mash so it ferments out on the dryer side, high 70's AA, and increase the bitterness to reach a bu:gu of 0.8-0.9. definitely throw in a few percent crystal and a little wheat maybe. I have a bitter right now where I used 8% wheat and it got a slight haze and a little weissbier like wheaty/grainy tang, will keep it down to 5% in the future.
Keep in mind though I prefer Northern or Yorkshire style Bitters, if you want it more in the Southern style keep your gravity and IBU as is.
Keep in mind though I prefer Northern or Yorkshire style Bitters, if you want it more in the Southern style keep your gravity and IBU as is.
Have a very similar beer in the fermenter. 7.5# of Chevalier, 1# of homemade invert #2. Mash and boil 90 minutes with Pilgrim and Goldings at 60, Goldings at 30, and First Gold at 5. Fermented with an out of date pack of 1469 supplemented with a pack of S-04.
i've got a couple quick questions before i pull the trigger on my first premium bitter. i should have brewed this months ago but i laid off of brewing for a while. The imperial pub yeast pack is now 6months old. software says it would be zero viability? Not sure i'm buying that, what do you think? if 60b were viable id cover the 319b i need for a 10.5g batch with a starter. Option would be to drive an hour to the hbs for some Notty.
also-is 8.6% invert #2 too much ?
1.043, 4%, fg: 1.012, ibu: 32, srm: 9.98
also-is 8.6% invert #2 too much ?
1.043, 4%, fg: 1.012, ibu: 32, srm: 9.98
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I'd suggest doing a starter from the yeast, almost certainly still has good cells, enough for a starter anyhow. Once that's done it's thing you should be good to go.
I did 5% #2 in my last ESB, and not sure I could actually tell. I'm planning to brew it again later this week and go with 10% of the #2. IIRC that was actually the original recommendation in this thread and I should have just gone with it.
I did 5% #2 in my last ESB, and not sure I could actually tell. I'm planning to brew it again later this week and go with 10% of the #2. IIRC that was actually the original recommendation in this thread and I should have just gone with it.
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The 09 Pub is a good yeast. I have successfully revived it after six months if properly stored.
If you have a couple of vessels for starters, you could do this. Make your usual starter then after about an hour gently pour it off to the second vessel leaving the dead cells behind on the bottom. The healthy yeast is still suspended in the wort and you can add more wort to up the cell count.
+1 for the starter, the pack will be still ok for a starter. You should do a starter with liquid yeasts anyway. Yes, also with imperial yeast. Trust me, I learned it the hard way.
I go mainly with 10% invert, so yes, 8,6% is completely fine. Anything up to 20% is generally possible. Even more.
Dead and living cells do not behave like that. What you are actually leaving behind is the well flocculating portion of the yeast, containing both dead and living cells. And you are propagating further the not so well floccing portion of the yeast, also containing dead and living cells.
thanks, cooking up the starter now. i'm never sure on the store packs, my harvested yeasts no question. i could totally bump the invert, i wasn't sure how much to use but have 2lbs that i made.
-ive never tried a multi-step starter and likely wont here, but i'd let step one runs its course before adding to a second starter.
-ive never tried a multi-step starter and likely wont here, but i'd let step one runs its course before adding to a second starter.
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I would think that the short time between the transfer, one hour or less would mostly be dead or unhealthy yeast. I'm not an authority on this just had success in using this to use old yeast.
cheers
