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The OFFICIAL Low Oxygen Brewing Thread, AKA lodo, lowdo, LOB

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Is there a certain percentage of post boil wort we are trying to leave in the kettle after whirlpool for a typical 1.060 beer with an average amount of hops (NEIPA would obviously need some more trub volume left behind)?

I do 3.25 gallon (Post boil) batches and normally leave anywhere from around 0.25 to 0.50 gallons, which is 7.7% - 15.4%.
 
How much ever..only clear wort and not trub gets you. For me that’s about a gallon.
 
How much ever..only clear wort and not trub gets you. For me that’s about a gallon.


Do you do 5 gallon batches?

I've also started using a UtahBiodeisel 300 micron filter going from my kettle to my fermenting keg to help with filtering the stuff that accidently gets sucked in. I know that micron size is good for hop particles, but what micron size would be needed for the other stuff we want to keep out.

Sorry for all the questions, I am about to drill my holes for valves and want to get the height right.
 
See Techbrau's response, post #379.


Interesting that folks are seeing haze with RO water. I guess I haven't had an issue that seemed problematic to me. A friend of mine also uses RO and doesn't have this issue. He uses a copper chiller though, so that may be part of his saving grace. Me though, not sure, since I use a stainless chiller...

I brewed a beer that I wasn’t particularly concerned about haze so I added 1/2 tsp at 16 mins and it turned out OK (use RO). I just kegged so I expect it to clear even more. I also use a copper IC. I forgot to make a slurry and just added the powder to my boil. Oops.

This is an English style IPA and I added rye and flakes rye, plus amber.

IMG_3947.jpg
 
If you look at one of my last posts, I, by accident, put my airlock on the outpost instead of the gas in and almost all my wort left the keg and went into the floor. There was still some wort left in the keg, so I just took the airlock off and let the remaining 0.50-0.75 gallons ferment under pressure. It's been about two weeks and I just tasted the sample and it tastes pretty astringent. The recipe is for a coffee oatmeal stout:

2.85 lb Pale 2-Row 37 1.8 31.9%
2.85 lb Maris Otter Pale 38 3.75 31.9%
1.2 lb Flaked Oats 33 2.2 13.4%
0.75 lb Roasted Barley 33 300 8.4%
0.6 lb Chocolate 29 350 6.7%
0.45 lb CaraMunich II 34 46 5%
0.23 lb Caramel/Crystal 90L 33 90 2.6%

Yeast is WLP001 with some magnum for bittering

I've never fermented under pressure, nor fermented in kegs, so any ideas?

Some possibilities:

-The pressure was A LOT, even with it just being about half a gallon in a 5 gallon keg. Maybe too much pressure for the yeast? Like I said, everything, except a little leaked and I just closed it up to see what would happen. If that hadn't happened, I had a spunding valve ready to go on day 4 or so.

-That's the most roast malt I've used for a LODO(ish) batch. I've read that the roasts really come through on this type of brewing, so maybe too much roast leading to astringency. My pH was 5.4.

-Not enough sugars for the yeast to eat. With it leaking, not enough wort for the yeast. Unintentional overpitch?
 
@ParanoidAndroid I cannot say for certain why your resulting beer would be astringent. I've done a couple stouts with 19.5oz roast malts in 5G batches which is close to the amount you used, but they only accounted for ~9.5% of the total grist in my recipes whereas yours is closer to 15%. I even mashed with a 5.2pH. I had no astringency - there was roast character (i.e. including light roast bitterness) - but none of that tongue-drying and tingling astringency. I've never fermented under pressure, with the exception of spunding to proper carbonation, so I cannot comment on how that might affect the overall yeast performance and their expression in the beer.

I personally do not find roast malts to be overly enhanced in a low oxygen beer; however, I HAVE found toasted malts to be heavily enhanced, particularly as the overall beer flavor lightens.

I'm not much help here as I cannot offer much useful advice in your particular situation. I would personally chalk up a batch like this as an outlier and attempt to re-do the batch as designed to get a proper representation of how low oxygen brewing affects the beer.
 
Though I'd post my LoDO Big Mouth Bubbler Pressure transfer process I rigged up tonight. Might have been covered already, but...

Parts List (had most already):
Plastic Big Mouth Bubbler with spout

10' 3/8 OD 1/4 ID hose for CO2 flow (homedepot)

1/4 barb to 1/4 MFL for CO2 tank connection

3 Piece airlock (just need lower piece)

3/8 Racking hose

Liquid disconnect

Begin with a star san "water purged" keg with a small amount of co2 left. Setup is to jam the 3/8 hose into the airlock with the other end connected to tank. Set tank to 1 psi. Let flow into bucket of sanitizer while you prepare the liquid connection.

For the liquid, jam the racking hose onto the mfl of the liquid QD and screw down until snug. (future upgrade will be a 1/4 flare nut to 3/8 barb fitting, but this worked fine for today). I use this same setup to empty the star san purged keg, so the line is already sanitized. Attach to keg and while co2 is still coming out attach to spout on Big Mouth Bubbler.

Quickly replace fermenting airlock with co2 line/air lock assembly and open spout.

You'll need to hold the top of the fermenter down, as the lids on these come off easily. I held it down by holding the airlock so neither would come out from the pressure. It took me about 5 minutes to transfer 5 gallons.

I snapped a pic just prior to packing it away, next time I'll get one in process. The small line you see goes to the CO2 tank.

First pressure transfer I've done and I was extremely happy with how this went.

20171129_213233.jpg
 
what is the rational about having no trub in the fermenter? I am not talking about hop debris but coagulated proteins, hot break etc I am sure that I read somewhere that yeast need these to some extent to metabolize properly. Are they some kind of catalyst for oxygenation? Don't they simply precipitate out and are left behind when transferring after fermentation?

its ok i found this.

http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/trub-seperation-why-and-how/
 
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Since this thread is LONG, and there are lots of topics covered here, I am closing it so that we can open new topics in this new forum. If you have any questions, comments or concerns, please PM me.
 
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