Spike - Steam Condenser Lid

[jready]

I got mine this week and had time to brew yesterday with it. There is a learning curve at getting the output percentage right on the element so that you don’t get a boil over. I waited for hot break to put it on but still had it coming out of the 4 inch port. (16 gal of wort in 20 gallon pot) I ended up with the element at 45% and that seemed to hold the temp right at boiling. (Normally I run it somewhere between 75-80% once it is boiling. I had about 1 gallon loss over an hour which was considerably less than with the lid off, and some of that was boil over too.

Water use was probably more than what was stated but hard to say as again this was my first time and might have boiled for more than an hour. I have an outbuilding that I brew in now and the amount of steam in the room was no existent which is a huge improvement from normal. We are about to start building a new home for the brewery and other things and this solves not having to do a vent hood for sure.

Things I learned: You need to be wearing some heat proof gloves for sure. Adding hops wasn’t too bad but messing with the boil over and the hot water it made things easier. I have

 

[IanMC]

Inquiring minds want to know...what does the nozzle fitting look like?

I just got mine in the mail, and haven't had a chance to test it yet, but I wanted to share some pictures here that might be helpful.

Here is the nozzle. It appears to be stainless steel and has a 1/4" MPT thread which screws into the water inlet tri-clamp fitting.

To confirm the size and compatibility with other 1/4" NPT fittings, I screwed in a compressed air quick connector.

This being the case, it should be easy to swap in one of the spray nozzles that have been widely used in other steam condenser systems. That said, before I go that route, I'm going to try hooking this nozzle up to my house water and seeing how it goes. Maybe try an inline water pressure regulator to keep it close to what the pump puts out.

 

[Brewbuzzard]

I was excited about this until I saw the 15-25 GPH figure too. As far as I can tell, the steam slayer doesn't require a pump and uses less water - am I wrong?

I have the steam slayer, 27 gal pots, 9 gph nozzle, 70-80 psi city water pressure, and boil for 90 min. I produce 13 to 15 gal of waste water and it is hot.

 

[sharp6]

I just got mine in the mail, and haven't had a chance to test it yet, but I wanted to share some pictures here that might be helpful.

Here is the nozzle. It appears to be stainless steel and has a 1/4" MPT thread which screws into the water inlet tri-clamp fitting.

View attachment 698050
View attachment 698051
To confirm the size and compatibility with other 1/4" NPT fittings, I screwed in a compressed air quick connector.
View attachment 698052

This being the case, it should be easy to swap in one of the spray nozzles that have been widely used in other steam condenser systems. That said, before I go that route, I'm going to try hooking this nozzle up to my house water and seeing how it goes. Maybe try an inline water pressure regulator to keep it close to what the pump puts out.

Very interested in how it worked with your house water supply. Any updates?

 

[IanMC]

Very interested in how it worked with your house water supply. Any updates?

My house water pressure is like 45-50 PSI, while the Spike pump puts out 6 PSI, so running the condenser sprayer right off the tap gave a dramatically stronger stream. I bought an inline water pressure regulator (typically used for RVs), and am able to crank it all the way down to 0 PSI if I want to. I haven't had a chance to try it with an actual brew yet, but I can confirm that with the pressure set to 6(ish) PSI, the spray coming out of the nozzle looks much more like the one with the pump now, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

There are a million of these RV water pressure regulators available on Amazon, all around $30 and looking almost identical. I wouldn't be surprised if they're all coming out of the same factory, with a different name and maybe some bells and whistles slapped onto them. That said, the one I got is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088KQRQWT, and it seemed to be the only one with a large thumbscrew at the top for adjusting the PSI, which is nice because you don't have to get out a screwdriver. It also came with a carrying case, although I intend on mounting mine to the wall anyway.

Good luck!

 

[wjogert]

My quick review... 20 Gal version used on SSBrewTech BME kettle, InfuSsion MT, and their standard kettle for HLT.
1) Pay no attention to the "Fits Most Brands" with pics of Blichmann and SSBrewTech. PAY ATTENTION to the diameter chart. The chart is spot on. I hoped for some play in the dimensions, but no. The lid fits VERY snug in my HLT kettle and MT. It does NOT fit the BME boil kettle.
2) The lid adds another function... the Spike Brewing CIP ball can be set into the condenser lid to clean your kettles. Most kettle lids have no TC ports, so this was a bonus. I also set the lid onto the MT and used the CIP to preheat the MT without having to volume fill it. Much quicker and much more efficient.
3) The clear port is useless. Minutes into heating the wort (not even at boil yet) that clear cover fogs over and you can't see anything inside of the kettle. The previous mention of a TC cover with handle would be much more useful.
4) Be sure to adjust your recipes for a MUCH lower boil off. I ended up with a higher post-boil volume than predicted and thus a lower OG. Future brews, I will calculate for the lower boil off rate, and/or plan to boil for a given time before adding bittering hops.
5) BEWARE!! I learned the hard way that opening the large port or moving the lid aside is a serious scalding hazard. There's a LOT of steam under the lid and I used several curse words each time I accessed the pot.

Despite the fact that it doesn't really fit my boil kettle, it was still functional. Small amount of steam escaped from the gap where the lid didn't seat. I'm more disappointed that I couldn't use it to CIP the boil kettle (not much steam escaped but the CIP spray went right out the gap lol). It did CIP the MT very nicely though.

 

[ajsinclair]

I just tested the fit of the 10 gallon lid on an SS Brewtech 10 gallon eKettle and an older Blichmann 10 gallon Boilermaker kettle (G1). The lid does not fit either one. It's just a tad too large, probably 2-3mm. As these are stainless steel, there isn't any play to force the lid to fit. I will have to return it to Spike.

@SpikeBrewing Is there any possibility of updating this product to make the lid just a tad smaller so it really will fit popular kettles like SS Brewtech and Blichmann? It's so close, I think it would still fit Spike kettles if you just shrunk it down a tad.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

3) The clear port is useless. Minutes into heating the wort (not even at boil yet) that clear cover fogs over and you can't see anything inside of the kettle. The previous mention of a TC cover with handle would be much more useful.

Pro Tip: Use a flash light or your phone up against the clear cap and you'll be able to see in pretty well even with condensation.

I just tested the fit of the 10 gallon lid on an SS Brewtech 10 gallon eKettle and an older Blichmann 10 gallon Boilermaker kettle (G1). The lid does not fit either one. It's just a tad too large, probably 2-3mm. As these are stainless steel, there isn't any play to force the lid to fit. I will have to return it to Spike.

@SpikeBrewing Is there any possibility of updating this product to make the lid just a tad smaller so it really will fit popular kettles like SS Brewtech and Blichmann? It's so close, I think it would still fit Spike kettles if you just shrunk it down a tad.

It may be a problem with the older style Blichmann and SS kettles as we have purchased Blichmann and SS kettles to test the fit during development and they all fit correctly. Unfortunately tooling costs for something like this is extremely high so we don't have plans to change, sorry!

 

[kearney]

I just tested the fit of the 10 gallon lid on an SS Brewtech 10 gallon eKettle and an older Blichmann 10 gallon Boilermaker kettle (G1). The lid does not fit either one. It's just a tad too large, probably 2-3mm. As these are stainless steel, there isn't any play to force the lid to fit. I will have to return it to Spike.

@SpikeBrewing Is there any possibility of updating this product to make the lid just a tad smaller so it really will fit popular kettles like SS Brewtech and Blichmann? It's so close, I think it would still fit Spike kettles if you just shrunk it down a tad.

I just received my lid a few days ago and saw it was a little too big as well. I ran a test this morning and it seals well on a G1 10 gallon Blichmann, although it doesn't rest on the flanges perfectly.

 

[ajsinclair]

It may be a problem with the older style Blichmann and SS kettles as we have purchased Blichmann and SS kettles to test the fit during development and they all fit correctly. Unfortunately tooling costs for something like this is extremely high so we don't have plans to change, sorry!

Thanks. FYI - the SS Brewtech eKettle that I tested on is brand new. I just got it last week. I got two (one for HLT) and the fit is the same on both (not surprising, but just to eliminate the possibility that I got a weird one).

 

[Jtvann]

I’ve got to say I laughed a little bit when I read the equivalent of “hey spike, please redesign your product so that it will fit my kettle from a competitor”

 

[ajsinclair]

Well, they advertise "fits most kettles" with Blichmann and SS Brewtech logos, and I assume they want to sell to the whole market, not just those with Spike kettles.

I didn't mean "I'm special and I want to redesign it for me." I meant: I want to buy your product, which costs 2x the price of the competing solution (Steam Slayer), but it doesn't seem to meet one of your design objectives (compatibility with competitor's kettles).

Also, I know this is new product which has gone through some design iterations (like the pipe slope), so I was really just asking whether there could still be future iterations.

 

[Kaiserbraü]

I have a test run and a full brew (60m boil) with Spike’s lid and I love it. It was an affordable way for me to go fully electric and in the basement.

One odd thing - during the brew the discharge water wasn’t very hot. Anyone else notice this? I had a good rolling boil, lid fit snugly, and I had no residual steam.

Regarding fit - I second on checking measurements. My new build was actually designed around a MegaPot 15g which the lid did not fit (but was very very close). It was so close in fact I believe it was inaccurate measuring on my part. Luckily the pot was still new in box and Spike had a nice deal on a custom 15g kettle.

 

[Franktalk]

I have a test run and a full brew (60m boil) with Spike’s lid and I love it. It was an affordable way for me to go fully electric and in the basement.

One odd thing - during the brew the discharge water wasn’t very hot. Anyone else notice this? I had a good rolling boil, lid fit snugly, and I had no residual steam.

Regarding fit - I second on checking measurements. My new build was actually designed around a MegaPot 15g which the lid did not fit (but was very very close). It was so close in fact I believe it was inaccurate measuring on my part. Luckily the pot was still new in box and Spike had a nice deal on a custom 15g kettle.

I have good water pressure and run my condenser barely open. It takes care of all the steam and the effluent is not very hot either. I've been using it for a year and it's always been like this, but it doesn't seem to matter.

 

[Spartan1979]

Mine's not very hot either. I'm running a 9 gph spray nozzle and I could probably install the 6 gph nozzle. But I don't mind not putting very hot water directly into my drain pipes. I figure I'm only using $0.23 of water for the entire boil so it's not a big issue.

 

[Biggz1313]

@SpikeBrewing Loving my 15G Solo+ I've recently obtained from you all, but I seem to be having issues with the CIP ball on my kettle and steam condenser lid. I don't know if the lid just doesn't fit correctly, or if it's not heavy enough, but my CIP ball sprays my hot pbw, or cold rinsing water out of the kettle between the lid and kettle rim pretty much constantly an all the way around the kettle. Is this expected? I've bought 4 strong spring clamps to try and clamp the lid down, but still, water coming out all over. I've even tried restricting the flow to the CIP ball, but still leakage. Is there a simpler solution I just haven't thought of yet? As far as amount of water goes, I ran it for 5 minutes to get a good rinse of the kettle after a PBW bath, and after 5 minutes, there was enough water around my kettle to completely soak a normal sized bath towel to the point it's dripping if you were to hang it from a hook.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

@SpikeBrewing Loving my 15G Solo+ I've recently obtained from you all, but I seem to be having issues with the CIP ball on my kettle and steam condenser lid. I don't know if the lid just doesn't fit correctly, or if it's not heavy enough, but my CIP ball sprays my hot pbw, or cold rinsing water out of the kettle between the lid and kettle rim pretty much constantly an all the way around the kettle. Is this expected? I've bought 4 strong spring clamps to try and clamp the lid down, but still, water coming out all over. I've even tried restricting the flow to the CIP ball, but still leakage. Is there a simpler solution I just haven't thought of yet? As far as amount of water goes, I ran it for 5 minutes to get a good rinse of the kettle after a PBW bath, and after 5 minutes, there was enough water around my kettle to completely soak a normal sized bath towel to the point it's dripping if you were to hang it from a hook.

The lid and kettle don't make a water tight seal however liquid shouldn't be squirting out. Do you have the CIP ball in the top port or the side port? It should be on the lower side port. If all else fails you could get some gasket material to help make a water tight seal.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/4140

 

[Biggz1313]

The lid and kettle don't make a water tight seal however liquid shouldn't be squirting out. Do you have the CIP ball in the top port or the side port? It should be on the lower side port. If all else fails you could get some gasket material to help make a water tight seal.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/4140

I have it in the lower port, but have tried both ports with the same result. Would you happen to have the CAD dimensions available for the lip of the steam condenser lid that I could potential give to a company that could make me a gasket? It's quite a bit of liquid that's escaping and it's basically stopped me from using it because I have to babysit it and clean up all the water around my kettle brewstand.

Edit: just realized you linked to a potential solution, my apologies, ignore my request for dimensions. Thank you for the link.

 

[modobrew]

I'm wondering if anyone has tried the condenser lid on the 80 qt Concord pots? I chose these for my electric brewery, but I'm really liking the idea of the steam condenser lid vs a hood. 80 qt Concord pots @SpikeBrewing do you guys know if your 20 gallon lid would fit?

 

[Biggz1313]

So the bright flashlight trick works decently to see into the kettle, but has anyone come up with any DIY anti-fog that doesn't involve chemicals or soap? I'll admit, I forgot to add my fermcap-s and was seconds away from a boil over, but wouldn't you know it, the bubbly boil over that touched the clear see through triclamp port added a film that acted as an anti fog for the rest of the boil. It was nuts, thing was clear as day. Anyone smarter than me that can figure out how to replicate this without actually almost boiling over?

Also, anyone aware of a 4" Triclamp that has a hinged lid that clamps into place (similar to like a port hole on a ship)? Obviously not this exactly, but similar design:

Out ring would clamp onto the steam condenser, and the door can be easily opened/closed. That tri-clamp gets so dang hot and it's finicky to get back on and something like this would be awesome. This is definitely a WANT and not a need, the steam condenser works great as is, but this little upgrade would be huge QOL improvement in my opinion.

@Bobby_M are you aware of anything or do you sell anything similar?

 

[fragged]

So the bright flashlight trick works decently to see into the kettle, but has anyone come up with any DIY anti-fog that doesn't involve chemicals or soap? I'll admit, I forgot to add my fermcap-s and was seconds away from a boil over, but wouldn't you know it, the bubbly boil over that touched the clear see through triclamp port added a film that acted as an anti fog for the rest of the boil. It was nuts, thing was clear as day. Anyone smarter than me that can figure out how to replicate this without actually almost boiling over?

Also, anyone aware of a 4" Triclamp that has a hinged lid that clamps into place (similar to like a port hole on a ship)? Obviously not this exactly, but similar design:
View attachment 730237
Out ring would clamp onto the steam condenser, and the door can be easily opened/closed. That tri-clamp gets so dang hot and it's finicky to get back on and something like this would be awesome. This is definitely a WANT and not a need, the steam condenser works great as is, but this little upgrade would be huge QOL improvement in my opinion.

@Bobby_M are you aware of anything or do you sell anything similar?

Solder one of Bobby's flat face triclamp fittings on the lid, add a light weight butterfly valve. Done, and much safer than flipping a hot lid.

 

[thrillhouse]

I have an older Stout 15 gallon kettle and looks like I am just shy of clearing the space needed for the lid to sit properly. For those of you who use the lid without a perfect fit and rely on the vacuum to seal, any regrets?

 

[cactusgarrett]

Does anyone use this lid in conjunction with the Brewzilla 65L unit? I'm curious as to whether or not the lid fits well (or at all).

 

[Mousetrapbrewery]

Does anyone use this lid in conjunction with the Brewzilla 65L unit? I'm curious as to whether or not the lid fits well (or at all).

Reviews on their site indicate that the 15 gal lid works works with the brewzilla 65. Im thinking about doing this with my brewzilla once it comes in.

 

[Town9]

Has anyone figured out how to get steam to stop leaking out the rim of the lid?

I have a spike 30 gal kettle with the lid on an eHERMS using 5500 ulwd elements. When I run the boil at anything greater than 15% (slightly rolling boil) steam starts leaking out the sides and condensates/drips down the side of the kettle.

I have the standard configuration, no CIP ball…

 

[Biggz1313]

Has anyone figured out how to get steam to stop leaking out the rim of the lid?

I have a spike 30 gal kettle with the lid on an eHERMS using 5500 ulwd elements. When I run the boil at anything greater than 15% (slightly rolling boil) steam starts leaking out the sides and condensates/drips down the side of the kettle.

I have the standard configuration, no CIP ball…

I have the 15 gallon lid and use the pump that came with it and have no issues with steam leaking. Are you sure you have a good flow rate from the water pump and nozzle? Also what do you have you your PID set at during boil? You dont really need it any higher than 40-50% for a good boil and the condenser to keep up with that output.

I personally have issues with the CIP ball spraying water out from under the lid. @SpikeBrewing replied to me on this thread to a gasket I could by and put on it, so ~$60 later I bought the gasket and it still leaks flipping everywhere. It's super frustrating that I can't use the CIP ball because it just spews hot PBW out and down the side of my kettle.

 

[Town9]

I have the 15 gallon lid and use the pump that came with it and have no issues with steam leaking. Are you sure you have a good flow rate from the water pump and nozzle? Also what do you have you your PID set at during boil? You dont really need it any higher than 40-50% for a good boil and the condenser to keep up with that output.

I personally have issues with the CIP ball spraying water out from under the lid. @SpikeBrewing replied to me on this thread to a gasket I could by and put on it, so ~$60 later I bought the gasket and it still leaks flipping everywhere. It's super frustrating that I can't use the CIP ball because it just spews hot PBW out and down the side of my kettle.

The pump is working great as far as I can tell, but not sure about the nozzle? Maybe I’ll take it apart and see if it’s gummed up with scale or something.

I get flow out of the nozzle, but I’m not sure if it’s at the appropriate rate or not.

I use Craftbeerpi to run my boil output at the equivalent of 15% power…when I bump it up to 20% it starts leaking steam and it pops the 4” sight port lid off if I don’t have it clamped on.

Sorry to hear about your CIP issues, that doesn’t sound fun…

 

[Town9]

The pump is working great as far as I can tell, but not sure about the nozzle? Maybe I’ll take it apart and see if it’s gummed up with scale or something.

I get flow out of the nozzle, but I’m not sure if it’s at the appropriate rate or not.

I use Craftbeerpi to run my boil output at the equivalent of 15% power…when I bump it up to 20% it starts leaking steam and it pops the 4” sight port lid off if I don’t have it clamped on.

Sorry to hear about your CIP issues, that doesn’t sound fun…

just re-read the manual: my exit hose gets submerged often (it shouldn’t be)…that’s gotta be my problem, didn’t even think of the pressure build up that would cause

 

[Biggz1313]

just re-read the manual: my exit hose gets submerged often (it shouldn’t be)…that’s gotta be my problem, didn’t even think of the pressure build up that would cause

Oh yeah that'll definitely do it. Where do you have you exit hose draining to?

 

[Town9]

Oh yeah that'll definitely do it. Where do you have you exit hose draining to?

I have it going into a bucket. I had to buy a longer 3/4 ID silicone hose to reach the bucket, but originally had it touch the bottom which caused it to be submerged after a little bit of boiling.

I cut the hose to where it just hovers above the bucket as it drains and that fixed the leak issue.

Thanks for the help!