Spike - Steam Condenser Lid

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matt_m

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Agreed. I missed that on the diagram. Probably would want to extend it down a little too since the McMaster Carr nozzles have a 90 degree fan. Don't want it spraying into the tube coming across the lid. Probably just need a short pipe nipple, coupler or reducer, and the nozzle if that part is NPT thread. Probably can get all of that for $20-25 shipped at McMaster Carr.
 

IanMC

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Agreed. I missed that on the diagram. Probably would want to extend it down a little too since the McMaster Carr nozzles have a 90 degree fan. Don't want it spraying into the tube coming across the lid. Probably just need a short pipe nipple, coupler or reducer, and the nozzle if that part is NPT thread. Probably can get all of that for $20-25 shipped at McMaster Carr.
Nice! Seems like a workable solution. I'd love to hear what @SpikeBrewing thinks about this. Maybe they could offer a package that omits the pump and substitutes in a higher pressure nozzle? We would be extremely grateful!
 
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We fully understand that HBT is full of DIY homebrewers. We designed a system that out of the box is 100% guaranteed to work correctly and have the testing to verify that. We tested lower flow nozzles and we were not getting the vacuum readings that we wanted and had steam escaping out from the lid. The lid can certainly be DIY'd to connect directly to your water supply and another nozzle can be purchased however obviously there's no way for us to spec this out as everyone's water supply pressure is different. Personally I would always be a little nervous about DMS levels and I'm assuming most brewers aren't going to spend the $1,000's of dollars to have a lab test their beer for DMS levels. However if it tastes good enough for you that's all that matters!
 

IanMC

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We fully understand that HBT is full of DIY homebrewers. We designed a system that out of the box is 100% guaranteed to work correctly and have the testing to verify that. We tested lower flow nozzles and we were not getting the vacuum readings that we wanted and had steam escaping out from the lid. The lid can certainly be DIY'd to connect directly to your water supply and another nozzle can be purchased however obviously there's no way for us to spec this out as everyone's water supply pressure is different. Personally I would always be a little nervous about DMS levels and I'm assuming most brewers aren't going to spend the $1,000's of dollars to have a lab test their beer for DMS levels. However if it tastes good enough for you that's all that matters!
Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful response. Of course, this totally makes sense. You have to make a product that you know will work for the majority of your customers regardless of factors outside of your control, such as source water pressure, and you certainly can't conduct laboratory testing on myriad configuration possibilities. That said, your assurance that the system can be DIY'd to allow for a home water source is very encouraging. Might you be willing to sell a package at a reduced price that omits the pump, for those of us who want to tinker?

Thanks again!
 
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Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful response. Of course, this totally makes sense. You have to make a product that you know will work for the majority of your customers regardless of factors outside of your control, such as source water pressure, and you certainly can't conduct laboratory testing on myriad configuration possibilities. That said, your assurance that the system can be DIY'd to allow for a home water source is very encouraging. Might you be willing to sell a package at a reduced price that omits the pump, for those of us who want to tinker?

Thanks again!
Unfortunately since the BOM has 11 different components which comes out to 39,916,800 different combinations if my math is correct. I think our shipping department would quit if we opened up the kit for piecemealing like that.
 

tribble222

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I'm not sure anyone is asking you to part out all 11 pieces. I think we're just asking for two options: 1) with pump and mister or 2) without pump and mister. I fully understand if it's not worth the energy to separate those out as a business decision. I will be purchasing one regardless.

Edit: I think the number of possible combinations for people to purchase if you parted out all 11 pieces, and no one bought any duplicates of the 11 items, would be 2^11 = 2,048 (this includes the combination of buying nothing as well). I suspect your number may include all permutations, where buying a pump and a mister is a unique combination compared to buying a mister and a pump (order matters), and also include buying 11 of one piece, 10 of one piece, etc.
 
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Spartan1979

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Edit: I think the number of possible combinations for people to purchase if you parted out all 11 pieces, and no one bought any duplicates of the 11 items, would be 2^11 = 2,048 (this includes the combination of buying nothing as well). I suspect your number may include all permutations, where buying a pump and a mister is a unique combination compared to buying a mister and a pump (order matters), and also include buying 11 of one piece, 10 of one piece, etc.
It's been 40+ years since I had Stats, but wouldn't it be something like 11*10*9*8*7*6*5*4*3*2*1? Which would be 39,916,800.
 

tribble222

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Yeah that's 11 factorial. But I don't believe that's the answer in this case. Think about it this way - if there were 4 items: A, B, C, D. The number of combinations people could purchase, getting no more than one of each item would be: (NONE), A, B, C, D, AB, AC, AD, BC, BD, CD, ABC, ABD, ACD, BCD, ABCD = 16 ways. That is 2^4 = 16. If the formula was 4 factorial the answer would be 4*3*2*1 = 24 ways.

Edit: Here's a link: Combination - Wikipedia
 

matt_m

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Can I get it with the rubber grip on only the right handle? :D

That pump appears to be the one from their cooling kit. Its $40 when purchased individually and I'd hope they are marking it up a good bit from their cost when purchased that so it probably doesn't make much difference.
 

Bobby_M

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I can fully appreciate why a single tried and tested solution is desirable from a vendor perspective. Having sold the slayer for about 2 years, there is always that variable of source water pressure and temperature to deal with. However, flow rate is only one variable. The water temp is a big factor but it looks like erring on the high side of flow rate negates it. I think many people want to try to optimize for both condensing performance and water usage but they would have to be willing to work on it and perhaps buy a few sprayers to make it work.
 
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When we approached the problem we looked at it two ways (like Bobby mentioned). Do we try to optimize the water usage down to the pint or make sure that absolutely no DMS will be present WITH a factor of saftey since users use products differently than the engineers that designed them ;)

We decided that if we used 5 extra gallons it would have little to no affect on anything. The extra water will be hot and can be used to clean. If you don't need that water to clean you can use it for plants, water the grass, etc. While on paper 10 gallons of usage is less than 15 gallons and therefore better does it really actually make a difference? We decided that it did not.
 

IanMC

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Has anyone who purchased during the presale received their lid yet? If so, please help us out with some unboxing and testing info!
 

Rob2010SS

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I just ordered mine today! Hopefully will have it soon and can provide some info. Will keep you all posted, unless someone beats me to the punch.
 

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The primary details I would like confirmed are if the OEM nozzle is removable as depicted in the product guide and if so, what connection to the TC cap does it use, e.g. 1/8” NPT, 1/4” NPT, etc. This way if I purchase one and find I’m not satisfied with the pump configuration, I can easily modify to suite my own setup preferences without replacing the entire TC cap/nozzle assembly.

As an aside, it’s too bad the 4” cap doesn’t use some form of pivot attachment to easily rotate open/closed during the boil. Not sure I want to be messing with a clamp, gasket and cap over escaping steam.
 
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As an aside, it’s too bad the 4” cap doesn’t use some form of pivot attachment to easily rotate open/closed during the boil. Not sure I want to be messing with a clamp, gasket and cap over escaping steam.
We have had this suggestion a couple times however this would significantly increase the price of the unit. Rest assured when the 4" cap is off the steam still goes up the pipe. A 'Pro Tip' is to leave the clamp off and just place the cap/gasket on the ferrule. It will still make a seal and will make it easier to take off if you have multiple hop additions.
 

binaryc0de

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Interested in this as I brew in a basement with no vent hood. also new to this idea outside of distilling applications... So, two concerns...

1) What about pellet hops? I have a 15 gal SB kettle and I typically have a lot of head space as my batches are 5 gal. Would one put a large muslin bag around the port for pellet hops then?

2) Boil off rate. I like high boil off rates typically because it allows me to keep an on my OG and dial that in by how hard I boil. I assume I was just have to adjust my mashes and change my brewing technique a little
 

Rob2010SS

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Interested in this as I brew in a basement with no vent hood. also new to this idea outside of distilling applications... So, two concerns...

1) What about pellet hops? I have a 15 gal SB kettle and I typically have a lot of head space as my batches are 5 gal. Would one put a large muslin bag around the port for pellet hops then?

2) Boil off rate. I like high boil off rates typically because it allows me to keep an on my OG and dial that in by how hard I boil. I assume I was just have to adjust my mashes and change my brewing technique a little
A lot of people just go commando with the hops in the kettle. For the most part, this is what I do. I tend to use a hop spider with heavier hop loads though. I'm still not sure what my solution for that will be. I've seen some pictures of people just standing their hop spiders up on the bottom of the kettle and just letting it sit there. I might try this and just position the spider to be under the port on the lid. (When I have an extra $300 to spend, I actually have been thinking about buying the basket from Spike's Solo system to use as a giant hop spider so that I don't take a hit on hop utilization...).

The boil off rate shouldn't be a huge deal. You'll just have to adjust your recipes for it. Typically I boil off a gallon and a half and I account for that in my recipes. With this, you'll just have to account for the smaller boil off. I think I'll actually like the lower boil off rates because I can keep more volume in the kettle!
 

jready

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I got mine this week and had time to brew yesterday with it. There is a learning curve at getting the output percentage right on the element so that you don’t get a boil over. I waited for hot break to put it on but still had it coming out of the 4 inch port. (16 gal of wort in 20 gallon pot) I ended up with the element at 45% and that seemed to hold the temp right at boiling. (Normally I run it somewhere between 75-80% once it is boiling. I had about 1 gallon loss over an hour which was considerably less than with the lid off, and some of that was boil over too.

Water use was probably more than what was stated but hard to say as again this was my first time and might have boiled for more than an hour. I have an outbuilding that I brew in now and the amount of steam in the room was no existent which is a huge improvement from normal. We are about to start building a new home for the brewery and other things and this solves not having to do a vent hood for sure.

Things I learned: You need to be wearing some heat proof gloves for sure. Adding hops wasn’t too bad but messing with the boil over and the hot water it made things easier. I have
 
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