Other Half Daydream (oat cream IPAs) - all grain clone attempts

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DrinkFresh said:
That's really good to know! I was going for a sweet pineapple bomb too with my hop combo, maybe I'll go with just Vic Secret next time and a whole lot more malted oats!

How low did the final gravity finish at with the Voss?

Either way it sounds like you nailed what you were going for with your recipe and using Kveik... Maybe I just did not get the best balance of sweetness and mouthfeel when I used the Hornindal in my recipe. I gotta try yours!
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This beer finished at 1.013. I prefer 1.015-1.016, so this is close enough. Pretty much every time I've used Voss it's attenuated right at 76%.
 
Question for those using pilaster malt, this is my most recent batch. Estimated SRM of 4.63. 3.5 gallon batch

4.5 lb Briess - Brewers Malt 2-Row 37 1.8 L 46.4%
0.7 lb German - CaraFoam 1.8 L 7.2%
3 lb Flaked Oats 2.2 L 30.9%
0.7 lb Lactose (Milk Sugar) 1 L 7.2%
0.8 lb Flaked Wheat 2 L 8.2%

Where are you finding pilsen malt with a lower than 1.8 L? My LHBS only sells ones with 1.7-2.0 L. Beers have been just a shade darker than I prefer and really am shooting for that straw yellow color but not sure how to get there without cutting back on the oats.
 
Virginia_Ranger said:
Question for those using pilaster malt, this is my most recent batch. Estimated SRM of 4.63. 3.5 gallon batch

4.5 lb Briess - Brewers Malt 2-Row 37 1.8 L 46.4%
0.7 lb German - CaraFoam 1.8 L 7.2%
3 lb Flaked Oats 2.2 L 30.9%
0.7 lb Lactose (Milk Sugar) 1 L 7.2%
0.8 lb Flaked Wheat 2 L 8.2%

Where are you finding pilsen malt with a lower than 1.8 L? My LHBS only sells ones with 1.7-2.0 L. Beers have been just a shade darker than I prefer and really am shooting for that straw yellow color but not sure how to get there without cutting back on the oats.
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Yeah, my current sack of Pils (Rahr) is 2 L. What about subbing out the flaked oats for malted oats? Isn't malted 2 L (versus the 2.2 for your flaked)? Not a huge difference, but might help some. IMO you can also drop the carafoam outright.
 
That drops to 4.3 which isn't bad. I am also trying to figure out with my process why I am getting darker than expected because I ferment in kegs (under pressure) and do closed transfers. In theory, there should be little oxidation opportunities but it seems like after a week it starts to darken (not a ton but noticeable).

edit should also mention, always purge kegs --- most recently started doing a full 5 gallon stars purge as opposed to just CO2
 
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brew703 said:
I've never been able to get that haze. They have all turned out somewhat hazy/cloudy but my NEIPAs have all cleared before the keg kicks.

I'll be brewing an Oat Cream IPA maybe next weekend using 20% flaked oats and 20% oat malt. Either going to use Conan or 1318. Still trying to decide on water profile.

Wish I could get some Yeast Bay to try but no nearby LHBS has it.
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Why not just order from YeastBay directly? I do it all the time. No problems.
 
Virginia_Ranger said:
That drops to 4.3 which isn't bad. I am also trying to figure out with my process why I am getting darker than expected because I ferment in kegs (under pressure) and do closed transfers. In theory, there should be little oxidation opportunities but it seems like after a week it starts to darken (not a ton but noticeable).

edit should also mention, always purge kegs --- most recently started doing a full 5 gallon stars purge as opposed to just CO2
Click to expand...
Have they still been darkening since you started doing full star san purges?
 
Virginia_Ranger said:
Question for those using pilaster malt, this is my most recent batch. Estimated SRM of 4.63. 3.5 gallon batch

4.5 lb Briess - Brewers Malt 2-Row 37 1.8 L 46.4%
0.7 lb German - CaraFoam 1.8 L 7.2%
3 lb Flaked Oats 2.2 L 30.9%
0.7 lb Lactose (Milk Sugar) 1 L 7.2%
0.8 lb Flaked Wheat 2 L 8.2%

Where are you finding pilsen malt with a lower than 1.8 L? My LHBS only sells ones with 1.7-2.0 L. Beers have been just a shade darker than I prefer and really am shooting for that straw yellow color but not sure how to get there without cutting back on the oats.
Click to expand...
Maybe its darker due to caramelization of the boiling wort due to heat?
 
TravelingLight said:
Have they still been darkening since you started doing full star san purges?
Click to expand...

I've got my first batch only going full star sans purges on deck for next week. Hydrometer samples were looking a little dark though :( (still orange no brown or anything just not as yellow as I'd like). Prior batch I started the star sans purge after the first transfer (just CO2 purge)

beervoid said:
Maybe its darker due to caramelization of the boiling wort due to heat?
Click to expand...

Quite possible! I'm not sure how to avoid that though, only thing I have done before on extract recipes is cut the boil down to 15 min but not sure I can do that on an all grain.
 
Brew day is complete except for clean up.
Aimed for 1.055 but came in at 1.052. Oh well it's still gonna be beer.
Hopefully it turns out great.
Will say it was a pretty gummy mash.
20200307_105042.jpeg
 
Just brewed a 50% oat malt neipa last night. I'm noticing a big difference in the way the it looks in the fermentation stage... It has a weird looking texture, almost like gel... It looks more viscous than any other beer I've ever had in the fermentor. Anyone noticed this?

I noticed that the krausen is full of hops which is not usually the case because I get rid of a lot of that with the cold-break. I didn't take note of what the wort looked like before dumping it into the fermentor so I'm wondering if the trub never dropped out because of the high protein content..? I top cropped at 24 hours and it really looks like pond scum.. starting to get worried..
 
BABFCF said:
Just brewed a 50% oat malt neipa last night. I'm noticing a big difference in the way the it looks in the fermentation stage... It has a weird looking texture, almost like gel... It looks more viscous than any other beer I've ever had in the fermentor. Anyone noticed this?

I noticed that the krausen is full of hops which is not usually the case because I get rid of a lot of that with the cold-break. I didn't take note of what the wort looked like before dumping it into the fermentor so I'm wondering if the trub never dropped out because of the high protein content..? I top cropped at 24 hours and it really looks like pond scum.. starting to get worried..
Click to expand...

I ferment in corny's so i can't help with the look of fermentation, but i dont recall anything looking weird when transferring my 50% oat version to the fermentor. I dont use any fining in my neipas typically, though my gut feel is i had alot more break material on my pre-prohibition pils that i made yesterday (using irish moss). Then again i used leaf hops in the whirlpool on the NEIPA so perhaps that just obscured how much i really had
 
I didn't notice mine looking any different. I had roughly 16% flaked oats, 16% malted oats and about 8% white wheat.
The mash was somewhat gummy but i expected that. The sample tasted good but until it's carbed it is hard to tell what it will taste like. At least that's how it is for me.
 
I did a 50% malted oats beer a few weeks ago, comments above, and I don’t remember it looking or acting any different than usual.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I'm thinking my whirlpool hops must have just made their way to the fermentor and they normally stay behind.

Recipe if anyone's interested:

50% Malted Oats
47% 2 row
3% Honey malt
200/100 ppm chloride/sulfate
60 min boil

.5 oz Citra @ 10 mins
.5 oz Citra @ 5 mins
1 oz Citra @ flameout
5 oz Citra @ 20 min hopstand @ 170F
2 oz Citra & 1 oz Mosaic Cryo @ 24 hrs
2 oz Citra & 1 oz Mosaic Cryo @ Keg hops

2nd Gen WY1318 @ 66F ramping to 70F

Never had any OH beers but sounds delicious
 
Anybody here have any experience with CMC Malted Oats? I looked at the spec sheet and compared them to TF Malted Oats and they looked pretty much identical spec wise.
 
Virginia_Ranger said:
That drops to 4.3 which isn't bad. I am also trying to figure out with my process why I am getting darker than expected because I ferment in kegs (under pressure) and do closed transfers. In theory, there should be little oxidation opportunities but it seems like after a week it starts to darken (not a ton but noticeable).

edit should also mention, always purge kegs --- most recently started doing a full 5 gallon stars purge as opposed to just CO2
Click to expand...

what is your kettle material? Stainless or aluminum?
 
TravelingLight said:
Curious where you're going with this because I might learn something. I boil in SS now but started out with aluminum.
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I've been roasted on homebrewing subreddits for this- but I think Al pots oxidize the wort. I have a very "seasoned" Al pot, but I still can't get past a certain hue of the beer- I've tried pilsen NEIPA bases too. It's not terrible, as I can't taste it, but the color isn't quite as light as I'd like it. I use natural gas and can't quite blame the temperature of the heat applied- I have caramelized the wort with propane and know the difference. Propane burns a lot hotter than natural gas, and should be more carefully controlled during the boil.

Also in regards to oxidation, color - I've also noticed that my beers oxidize quicker if I dry hop in purged kegs. It could be a bad C02 tank with trace amounts of O2 in it, but when I dry hop in the fermentation vessel after I cold crash and then transfer to a purged keg (I do the starsan method), the beers don't oxidize after 3-4 weeks like my keg dry hopped beers. Once again, the level of oxidation is very low, but I still notice it. And this definitely impacts the flavor a bit.
 
I’m using stainless steel. Wonder if the recirculating prior to boil and during whirlpool could have an effect? Funny you say that about the dry hopping. The best looking beer I’ve got on my system so far was one that I did not do any transfer to dry hop, just one at day 2 and another at day 5 or 6 all one the fermentor.
 
So I'm going to brew one of these up on March 23rd. Here's my simple grain bill:
  • 50% Briess Brewer's 2-Row
  • 50% CMC Malted Oats
  • Lactose
I plan to use 1318 and all Galaxy hops. I've been working on my water quite a bit and have come up with this water profile:

Using 100% Distilled water, 92ppm Calcium, 13ppm Magnesium, 40ppm Sodium, 50ppm Sulfate, and 225ppm Chloride.

Lately I've been brewing with a soft water profile with 25ppm of Calcium or so and 140ppm Chloride, but haven't liked how my beers have turned out. They haven't been as hazy or have that mouthfeel I want. I really think the amount of Chloride in the water helps with both mouthfeel and haze.

I'll keep you updated once I get this brewed.
 
LumberZach said:
So I'm going to brew one of these up on March 23rd. Here's my simple grain bill:
  • 50% Briess Brewer's 2-Row
  • 50% CMC Malted Oats
  • Lactose
I plan to use 1318 and all Galaxy hops. I've been working on my water quite a bit and have come up with this water profile:

Using 100% Distilled water, 92ppm Calcium, 13ppm Magnesium, 40ppm Sodium, 50ppm Sulfate, and 225ppm Chloride.

Lately I've been brewing with a soft water profile with 25ppm of Calcium or so and 140ppm Chloride, but haven't liked how my beers have turned out. They haven't been as hazy or have that mouthfeel I want. I really think the amount of Chloride in the water helps with both mouthfeel and haze.

I'll keep you updated once I get this brewed.
Click to expand...
I dig the water profile. It's very similar to what I do (86 Sulfate / 219 Chloride) and I have been using this one for a couple years now. I previously started out with 2:1, but after a homebrew club buddy suggested going 3:1, it really helped the mouthfeel on my NEIPAs. I brew with tap water (Ward tested), but it's pretty consistent and relatively neutral as far as tap water goes.
 
LumberZach said:
So I'm going to brew one of these up on March 23rd. Here's my simple grain bill:

Using 100% Distilled water, 92ppm Calcium, 13ppm Magnesium, 40ppm Sodium, 50ppm Sulfate, and 225ppm Chloride.

Lately I've been brewing with a soft water profile with 25ppm of Calcium or so and 140ppm Chloride, but haven't liked how my beers have turned out. They haven't been as hazy or have that mouthfeel I want. I really think the amount of Chloride in the water helps with both mouthfeel and haze.

I'll keep you updated once I get this brewed.
Click to expand...


I dont recall my exact numbers but I my most recent batch ended up Ca 70, Na 70, So4 60, Cl180. i was shooting 3:1 with 70 sodium. some things might be a little off there, id have to check my notes at home. the beer is definitely super soft and im digging it but id probably drop down the Sodium and chloride while upping the S04 slightly. It doesnt taste "salty" like a Gose would, but id still say its a little salty...confusing i know
 
revisiting our previous recipe tomorrow. first batch came out solid but have higher hopes for this one. recipe below for anyone interested:
55% 2-row
17% Malted Oats
17% Flaked Oats
3.5% Carapils
3.5% Honey Malt
3.5% Lactose @ flameout

Flameout hops : 1.5oz mosaic, 1oz sabro
Whirlpool @ 170: 2oz mosaic, 2 oz sabro

dry hop 2 pts from terminal : 5oz mosaic, 3 oz sabro

yeast: bootleg biology neepah

fermentation - 4 days at 68, ramp up to 72 for 3 days for conditioning, pull yeast and dry hop for 3 days. pull hops and condition in keg or unitank.

water :
ca : 101
mg : 15
na : 37
cl : 127
so4: 138
hco : 53

sg 1.069
fg 1.020
~6%
 
ronniescouten said:
revisiting our previous recipe tomorrow. first batch came out solid but have higher hopes for this one. recipe below for anyone interested:
55% 2-row
17% Malted Oats
17% Flaked Oats
3.5% Carapils
3.5% Honey Malt
3.5% Lactose @ flameout

Flameout hops : 1.5oz mosaic, 1oz sabro
Whirlpool @ 170: 2oz mosaic, 2 oz sabro

dry hop 2 pts from terminal : 5oz mosaic, 3 oz sabro

yeast: bootleg biology neepah

fermentation - 4 days at 68, ramp up to 72 for 3 days for conditioning, pull yeast and dry hop for 3 days. pull hops and condition in keg or unitank.

water :
ca : 101
mg : 15
na : 37
cl : 127
so4: 138
hco : 53

sg 1.069
fg 1.020
~6%
Click to expand...

Just curious... are you pulling yeast to use for another batch, or for another reason? I notice it's before the dry-hopping, so I assume you plan to re-use it.
 
Here's the uncarbonated version.
FG checked in at 1.008 which is unsurprisingly low since I missed my OG.
Makes this a 5.78 ABV.
Going to probably keg tomorrow and should be ready by middle of next week.
20200314_120503.jpeg
 
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Virginia_Ranger said:
Question for those using pilaster malt, this is my most recent batch. Estimated SRM of 4.63. 3.5 gallon batch

4.5 lb Briess - Brewers Malt 2-Row 37 1.8 L 46.4%
0.7 lb German - CaraFoam 1.8 L 7.2%
3 lb Flaked Oats 2.2 L 30.9%
0.7 lb Lactose (Milk Sugar) 1 L 7.2%
0.8 lb Flaked Wheat 2 L 8.2%

Where are you finding pilsen malt with a lower than 1.8 L? My LHBS only sells ones with 1.7-2.0 L. Beers have been just a shade darker than I prefer and really am shooting for that straw yellow color but not sure how to get there without cutting back on the oats.
Click to expand...

Per my previous post here’s the color outcome after full star sansing purging all transfer kegs (one transfer for final dry hop at day 7-8 and then another to the serving keg).

Would like to get a bit lighter, I feel like it’s gotta be my system.
ATTACH=full]671142[/ATTACH]
 

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Virginia_Ranger said:
Per my previous post here’s the color outcome after full star sansing purging all transfer kegs (one transfer for final dry hop at day 7-8 and then another to the serving keg).

Would like to get a bit lighter, I feel like it’s gotta be my system.
ATTACH=full]671142[/ATTACH]
Click to expand...

that definitely looks dark to me. I don’t have much to add here but are you purging the transfer hoses? Are you sure there aren’t leaks in the hoses pulling o2 in?
 
Virginia_Ranger said:
Per my previous post here’s the color outcome after full star sansing purging all transfer kegs (one transfer for final dry hop at day 7-8 and then another to the serving keg).

Would like to get a bit lighter, I feel like it’s gotta be my system.
ATTACH=full]671142[/ATTACH]
Click to expand...
Apologies if you've listed it already. What's your fermenter setup? Are you cold crashing, and if so, what's your process for that?
 
BeerFst said:
that definitely looks dark to me. I don’t have much to add here but are you purging the transfer hoses? Are you sure there aren’t leaks in the hoses pulling o2 in?
Click to expand...

I purged the transfer hoses, never had concern over a leak but it is an old hose been I’m using (and cleaning) the same one for 2 years now.
 
Recently, i brewed the recipe with higher amount of flaked oats (close to 50%) and stuck to a grain bill of 50/50 2-row + pilsner malt for a lighter SRM. I do think it's helped, the beer doesn't look too dark or muddy, looks great in the sunlight but could use a touch of orange glow (perhaps some honey malt could help here next time). Either way, very happy with this batch so far! Hopped with Vic Secret + Citra in the whirlpool, dry hop and keg

00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200313152100323_COVER

00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200313152100323_COVER


Anywho, I kegged this Friday after checking the FG was down to 1.017, which a bit high I was glad wasn't too dry.

It's been sitting at 36°F @ 20-30 PSI but still quite under carbed... Typically, by day 4-5 it's good to serve. Maybe the oats causing the creamy, thicker mouthfeel causes it to take a bit longer to carb up? Anyone come across this issue before?
 
Seems like I read that brews with a high amount of oats may take a bit longer to carb.
I just kegged my version today. Currently sitting at 30 psi.
Hoping by Saturday it will be ready to drink.
In my version I used 56.6% pilsner, 16.2% malted oats, 16.2% flaked oats, 8.1% white wheat and 3% honey malt.
Color from the FG sample looks good. Just hope it comes out great.
 
HopsAreGood said:
Thanks, I like the color too. I’ve used all the usual suspects as far as yeasts go but this one was Hothead from Omega. (Kveik) Fermented right around 90 degrees and was done in three days.

I don’t have the exact water in front of me but I never stray far from the following for all my “hoppy ales.”

Ca: 70-80
Mg: 10
Na: 40-50
So4: 120
CaCl: 120

I’ve played with water levels a lot too and have found that this always works pretty well for what I’m going for. Pushing the sulfate or chloride significantly in either direction has never resulted in anything that made me want to do it again so I’ve settled in on this profile.
Click to expand...

Have you tried something closer to Pale Ale water, with this recipe? Something like SO4: 200, Cl:50?
 

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