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That would be great info, thanks!.
Looking forward, keep us posted.
Just following up on this.
The Daydreamiest: 10.5% abv, 1.029
Space Dream: 6%, 1.012
That would be great info, thanks!.
Looking forward, keep us posted.
All good. There are programs or spreadsheets such as Bru’n Water that will calculate the ppm of minerals based on weight of the compounds you adjust your water with and the total volume of water you’re adding them too. You can also learn the math a do it yourself but Bru’n water is mathematically sound so in my opinion there is no reason to do so.Here's the town water report:
https://www.eastlongmeadowma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/8222/2018-Water-Quality-Report-PWS-ID-1085000
I'll have to find time to read it in more detail, but a quick search didn't turn up calcium or sulfate. I suppose I can call the town and see what they tell me.
So when folks talk about adjusting their water, wouldn't this involve adding or filtering various chemicals/elements and testing on-site to get things where they want them? Sorry for the newbie questions!
Thanks for sharing!Just following up on this.
The Daydreamiest: 10.5% abv, 1.029
Space Dream: 6%, 1.012
Thanks for sharing!
1.029! Thats crazy high for an ipa. Must be the lactose?
Seems like the higher the abv the higher fg.
Interesting observation. I've always thought one would want to ferment the bigger beers dryer to prevent them from being cloying.
Wasnt it too sweet? Or do you like your beers sweet?
I recently had a bad attenuating beer finish at 1.025
It still tasted good. 6.5% but mouthfeel and sweetness was closer to an 8%
Not a fan of lactose either.I will check a few others but I think that’s their trend. The higher abv beers are generally listed as containing lactose which I’m finding I don’t necessarily like that flavor contribution. I prefer bigger NEIPA’s without lactose. But it works in some of their beers.
However, most of their beers are outstanding. I had a chance to smell an open bag of hops and what they get is amazing, and as others have discussed is partly why they get such a huge hop presence that we home brewers are constantly chasing. I will also say that their stouts and sours are also very good. Top notch brewery all around
So no preference flavor wise?I've been brewing with WLP095, Gigayeast Conan, The Yeast Bay Vermont, and Imperial Barbarian. I always do split batches.
They all smell the same, they all attenuate the same.
I’ve recently found the same with low temp us04 vs 1318 vs a38. All have the same juicy profileLooks good. For the oat cream a switch of the malted wheat for malted oats and that’s prob a pretty solid clone grain bill
I've been brewing with WLP095, Gigayeast Conan, The Yeast Bay Vermont, and Imperial Barbarian. I always do split batches.
They all smell the same, they all attenuate the same.
Not really, they all got that stonefruit character going on. Sometimes one had more stronger esters then others but I boil that down to difference in yeast nutrition (I eyeball my additions) or different generations.So no preference flavor wise?
As far as I can tell there is no difference. Wlp has hinted it being conan and they have no other strain in their inventory that is described as conan.Interesting, thanks for sharing this. I never doubted the other brands as much, especially since they all pretty much flat out say they are conan. I only ever doubted WLP095 just because of my own experience with it and that thread I linked. As for my experience, I can easily chalk that up to being an inexperienced NEIPA brewer at the time. I may give it another shot.
I’ve recently found the same with low temp us04 vs 1318 vs a38. All have the same juicy profile
It could be the lipids in the oats. They kill head retention so I’d bet they would mess with Krausen foam. What was your pitch rate? Is there a chance you missed the most active fermentation already? Is there dried Krausen on the side above your current Krausen line?So just did a batch of 50% pilsner, 40% oats (25% crisp malted, 15% flaked), 5% carapils/honey and 5% lactose. Fermentation is at day 2, there is a heap of airlock activity, and co2 coming to the surface, but very minimal (close to zero) krausen is forming. I'm guessing due to the oil content of the oats, or could it be error in my process? (just a basic ~75min 152 mash, 168 sparge, 60 min boil)
Has anyone else experienced this? and is it worth continuing with this batch or will it be disappointing in the glass with zero head?
I was considering doing a very similar malt bill for a OH clone. How did this turn out?So just did a batch of 50% pilsner, 40% oats (25% crisp malted, 15% flaked), 5% carapils/honey and 5% lactose. Fermentation is at day 2, there is a heap of airlock activity, and co2 coming to the surface, but very minimal (close to zero) krausen is forming. I'm guessing due to the oil content of the oats, or could it be error in my process? (just a basic ~75min 152 mash, 168 sparge, 60 min boil)
Has anyone else experienced this? and is it worth continuing with this batch or will it be disappointing in the glass with zero head?
Did you measure gravity?Sorry just saw your reply. I ended up dumping it rather than wasting a heap more hops on the dryhop. Looking back even when filling the fermenter or duration aeration there were basically no bubbles forming on the surface, all very strange. I might make another attempt soon with something more basic like 70% pilsner, 15% malted oats, 10% flaked wheat (or barley) and 5% carafoam
Why did you dump it? I had a batch ending up as high as 1.026 and it still didnt come out too sweet.Yeah it got down to around 1.020 from 1.071, so it was basically at my FG, just no krausen or anything at all formed on the surface over the 3+ days... There was a heap of airlock activity, you could actually hear the co2 dissipating when it reached the surface of the wort, if it wasn't for the activity from the blowoff tube I would have thought it was an air leak.
What temperature do you use with S04?
making an attempt at this beer this weekend too. ill post the full recipe shortly but wanted to ask some question. first time using lactose- it goes in at flameout right? and where is everyone in quantity of lactose- its a 5.5 gal batch, and i dont love overly sweet so im looking for just a nice touch of lactose. was thinking .75lb.
Ever use sabro berfore? I would just suggest tasting it before you dryhop with it. Can go from coconut to cedar wood rather quickly as you go above 3 ozsHere's my batch to be brewed this Friday. Looking for feedback on it so please weigh in! only thing i can't really change is the malt bill as the grains have already been purchased, but have plenty of hops, yeast, and water salts to adjust.
5.5gal
Per Beersmith:
OG: 1.069
FG: 1.023
Srm: 5.5
ABV : about 6.2%
Grains:
8.5# 2-Row (56%)
2.5# Flaked Oats (17%)
2.5# Malted Oats (17%)
.5# Carafoam (3%)
.5# Honey Malt (3%)
.75# Lactose at 55min
Mash pH 5.26
Mash 156 F for 47 minutes (per beersmith recommendation, should we still do 60 mins?)
Mashout 168 F for 10 minutes
Fly Sparge at 168 F for 15-20 mins
Boil/Hops:
1oz Galaxy @ 0min
1oz Sabro @ 0min
2oz Galaxy Whirlpool 20min at 170
2oz Sabro Whirlpool 20min at 170
Dry Hop:
2oz Galaxy 3 days into ferm
1oz Sabro 3 days into ferm
2oz Galaxy 7 days into ferm
1oz Sabro 7 days into ferm
Yeast/Fermentation:
1 L starter of Bootleg Biology NEEPAH
- going to let the beer rest overnight to ensure temp is ideal, pitch at what i'm hoping to be around 68 degrees, will bring it up to 70-71 on day 4-5, then get it down to 64degrees before kegging. force transferring from carboy to keg on probably day 9-10.
Chemistry:
150 S04
175 Cl
149 Ca (this number is because of my original water chemistry. any way to drive this number down?)
water additions
9g gypsum (4.5 to mash water, 4.5 to sparge. should this all be at once before boil?)
9g CaCl (same as above)
i haven't used it but i've drank it a bunch. i'm looking to get that coconut flavor without it drowning out the galaxy. should i just cut it from the dry hop and go with all galaxy?Ever use sabro berfore? I would just suggest tasting it before you dryhop with it. Can go from coconut to cedar wood rather quickly as you go above 3 ozs
I personally believe it’s more potent than galaxy. I would just monitor the taste and aroma before you dryhop. I notice your dryhoping during fermentation so when you get around 1.025 just give it a taste. Only need a few points left to scrub any o2. If it’s already solid coconut you may not need it in the DH. If you still think it didn’t hit coconut enough go for What you planned.i haven't used it but i've drank it a bunch. i'm looking to get that coconut flavor without it drowning out the galaxy. should i just cut it from the dry hop and go with all galaxy?
perfect thank you sir- how does everything else look? still relatively new to homebrewing, and looking for any and all feedbackI personally believe it’s more potent than galaxy. I would just monitor the taste and aroma before you dryhop. I notice your dryhoping during fermentation so when you get around 1.025 just give it a taste. Only need a few points left to scrub any o2. If it’s already solid coconut you may not need it in the DH. If you still think it didn’t hit coconut enough go for What you planned.
Grain bill looks fine. Your water chem is different than I would use. I would bring so4 down to 100 and wouldn’t exceed 100 ca. You don’t have to adjust Cl with cacl. You can use canning salt or gypsum but it all depends on your base waterperfect thank you sir- how does everything else look? still relatively new to homebrewing, and looking for any and all feedback
great thanks! tell me about when you add your water minerals- i've heard mixed opinions on thisGrain bill looks fine. Your water chem is different than I would use. I would bring so4 down to 100 and wouldn’t exceed 100 ca. You don’t have to adjust Cl with cacl. You can use canning salt or gypsum but it all depends on your base water