Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Here is the hydrometer i have. Its only got one scale.
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Reading from the top down, the scale goes from 0.980, 0.990, to 1.000 (all in small print).
Then in big print it reads 10, 20, 30, etc. Those are to be "added" to 1.000 as such: 1.010, 1.020, 1.030 ... 1.090.
Then, directly below "90" it reads 1.100
Every mark from there down, 110, 120 ... 150 are to read as such: 1.110, 1.120, 1.130 ... 1.150.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Thanks that has actually clarified that for me.
So i would be correct to say my S.G is at 1.026 and i am looking for a finishing S.G at 1.010 or below?
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It does seem strange that your SG isn't lower by now. Have you been keeping the temperature where the FV is at stable. Or is it varying greatly from day to night or for other reasons? Usually most all my ales and IPA's are fermented at a pretty stable ambient temperature of 20°C ±1°.
If taking a sample to get a SG reading involves opening the lid, then you might just consider going by time. Particularly since this is a beer you intend to dry hop. O2 and hop additions after the ferment are not very good friends.
If it's a clear fermenter, then you can just wait till the beer is clear and you can see to the other side of the trub layer. That might be tomorrow, or it might be 3 to 6 weeks from now. When that happens, you can be certain your beer is at FG.
If taking a sample to get a SG reading involves opening the lid, then you might just consider going by time. Particularly since this is a beer you intend to dry hop. O2 and hop additions after the ferment are not very good friends.
If it's a clear fermenter, then you can just wait till the beer is clear and you can see to the other side of the trub layer. That might be tomorrow, or it might be 3 to 6 weeks from now. When that happens, you can be certain your beer is at FG.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Its now day 14 and the kit says 15 days. The temperature has been mostly at 20C but some nights have slipped to 17C. Maybe the yeast slowed a little bit at night?
Other variables to consider are:
Its at about 22 litres instead of 20
I spilt a sprinkle of yeast while opening the packet.
It tasted great and looking good but i will check the S.G tomorrow.
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YVW!
You can "calibrate" it in distilled or RO water, usually at 20°C or 21°C to read 1.000. Somewhere on the paper scale should be a calibration temp printed.
If it's off a little when checking the calibration, take note of it, so you can add or subtract those few points of each reading. For example, mine reads 2 points too high (one of the small division lines below the correct one). So when I read 1.014, I know it's actually 1.012.
When reading use either the top or the bottom of the meniscus, whichever is closest to your "calibration gravity" of 1.000, and do the same for all successive readings. In the lab we always read at the bottom of the meniscus in watery solutions. But if the top is closer to the calibration temp, you can use that for your readings. It's not all that critical, as long as you're consistent.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
There is no mention of calibration on the paper that came with it
That makes perfect sense though.
i will most like invest in a better hydrometer equipment after this brew.
I am about to start my BIAB project next week
DriveFastDontDie
New Member
In the original post I think boiling water was added to the malt. I’ve been under the impression that adding water over 170f/ 76c to malt will denature the natural alpha amylase enzyme in the grain, which is most active between 155-158f. If alpha amylase wasn’t added to offset the denatured enzyme then it’s possible that the natural beta amylase in the grain is working away at a much slower rate. I could be wrong though.
Yeah, that's the idea.
Just checking: You're getting the reading of 1.026 about halfway between the 2 lines upon which the numbers 20 and 30 (respectively) are resting on, correct?
And you haven't verified that plain water actually reads 1.000 at 20C.
1.026 is a bit high. I let it be for another week, if possible at 22-24C (if you can find a slightly warmer area) before taking another reading. It's also important for the temps to be consistent, and not drop, such as often happens overnight. Maybe wrap the fermenter in a thick blanket or sleeping bag, including the bottom.
It's a pre-hopped liquid extract kit. The enzymes were already denatured when the OP bought it.
It should be printed on the paper scale inside the hydrometer.There is no mention of calibration on the paper that came with it
Just beware, these hydrometers are made of very, very thin glass, with a (relatively) big weight in the bottom, and thus extremely fragile! Handle accordingly!
It looks from the picture in post #45 there is hardly a foot or base on your test tube. Don't set that tube on any surface by itself, it will tip and likely break your hydrometer.
You may be able to set it inside a heavy, wide footed, tallish container to keep it upright and from toppling over.
Assuming the hydrometer does read 1.000 in water, then I don't have really high hopes that your beer will reach 1.010 no matter how much longer you give it. If you haven't added the dry hops yet, I would go ahead and do that now and take what you get. Just one man's opinion.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Exactly yes. I will try to calibrate tomorrow in some distilled water.
I have just carefully moved my FV to the opposite end of the room with the woodburner in and have managed a steady 22C. Ill check all gravity reading tomorrow and report back
I have a heat mat would that also be of any use?
By the way, love this forum you guys are great! When funds permit sign me up fully
The yeast is not on any schedule, she just does what she does best in a given environment.
When the beer temps drop her metabolism slows down; she can even start floccing out. That's why keeping ferm temps stable is important and raising them somewhat when fermentation slows will keep her engaged and help her finish out and clean up.
Although @mac_1103 is probably right that she's done with this ride, I would give the beer the benefit of doubt a few days longer in somewhat warmer temps, and nicely wrapped up during the (cooler) nights.
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Looking at your picture of the beer in your sample tube, you need to wait a while longer for sure. Don't get antsy to rush your beer into the bottle or keg just because the recipe says leave it in the FV for so many days. All the beers I left in the FV for a long time were good to great beers. A few of the beers I've rushed were crappy.
IMO, IMO and IMHO, American IPA's should be pretty clear. Sometimes they are in less than two weeks. But other times they might take more time to clear. So just be patient. Find some other beer to enjoy in the mean time. You could cold crash, but that has additional consideration of it's own. And I'm not convinced it's that much faster in itself. I've had beers go from murky to clear in a day.
And don't be sampling for SG too often. Even if you have a spigot or some other way to get a sample with out opening the lid and letting the air in, it's still getting in there because something has to make up that volume you removed. So if you use a airlock it's sucking air back through it.
IMO, IMO and IMHO, American IPA's should be pretty clear. Sometimes they are in less than two weeks. But other times they might take more time to clear. So just be patient. Find some other beer to enjoy in the mean time. You could cold crash, but that has additional consideration of it's own. And I'm not convinced it's that much faster in itself. I've had beers go from murky to clear in a day.
And don't be sampling for SG too often. Even if you have a spigot or some other way to get a sample with out opening the lid and letting the air in, it's still getting in there because something has to make up that volume you removed. So if you use a airlock it's sucking air back through it.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
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Thanks for the picture of your fermenter, above ^!
We see a clear krausen line, about 1/2" high, right above the beer level, and some specks higher up, which could be a sign krausen may have risen higher up earlier on. Those are signs that at least decent fermentation has taken place, and has subdued now.
How much yeast did you actually spill, a few granules or perhaps as much as half the pouch?
There's not all that much in those (little) pouches anyway.
We see a clear krausen line, about 1/2" high, right above the beer level, and some specks higher up, which could be a sign krausen may have risen higher up earlier on. Those are signs that at least decent fermentation has taken place, and has subdued now.
How much yeast did you actually spill, a few granules or perhaps as much as half the pouch?
There's not all that much in those (little) pouches anyway.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Well that does sound hopeful!
I didnt spill much at all. The packet ripped suddenly as i was trying to tear it carefully.
I did notice the foam (krausen i am guessing) did rise very early on and has since subsided.
I didnt get time to take a gravity reading today but i will make sure i do tomorrow
I haven't read every post here but have tried to follow along. You are getting some great advice from the folks here.
Being your first batch you're going to learn a lot that will help with future ones, take good notes. Having two or more hydrometers is a good investment, as noted, they break easily. Get or make one of those test tube holders, make sure it has a steady base.
Brewing will get better as you brew more batches. The overall process is fairly easy if you follow good brewing practices. We all started out just like you with loads of questions.
Being your first batch you're going to learn a lot that will help with future ones, take good notes. Having two or more hydrometers is a good investment, as noted, they break easily. Get or make one of those test tube holders, make sure it has a steady base.
Brewing will get better as you brew more batches. The overall process is fairly easy if you follow good brewing practices. We all started out just like you with loads of questions.
Ah, good, because you do need all (at least most) of the yeast in it (11 grams dry) for a 20 liter batch up to 1.050-1.060 OG.
Use clean and sanitized scissors next time...
You only need to snip off a corner, makes it easier to sprinkle it onto the wort surface, too.
Sanitize the outside of the yeast package too, before cutting.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
I love this forum already i have learnt loads and i am taking notes down
I feel like i have a good understanding of the basic brewing process and I definitely have the will to apply it. I love good beer and i live in a place where there is very little good beer avalible. Its a hot country so larger is the only option really. Of which there are two comercial choices…..
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Yeah im sure it was just a sprinkle. I did sanitise the outside of the pack but next time i will definitely be usong scissors hahaha! Was just all giddy to pitch my yeast
Thanks for the invaluable tips!
Everything in your Brewery needs to be clean and more importantly, sanitized! That's one of the most important points to stress. You can ferment your beer in an old boot if it's properly cleaned and sanitized!
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
I have taken another gravity reading today.
I calibrated the hydrometer in distilled water at 20C and it was showing 1.000 so i guess that is all as it should be. The reading of the ale is at 1.020 today.
Any advice on adding the hops? One user said to just add them now but the kit instructions say 1.010 or below.
Also i need to wait until the S.G is stable of a few days before bottling correct?
Ah, good to know she's accurately calibrated.
That's 6 points lower than 2 days ago... That would hint to the gravity still dropping, and thus she's not done fermenting!
Leave it a few (3-6) more days... the warmer temps may have worked in your favor.
Dry hopping takes 3 days, and best added after fermentation has completed. There are exceptions, such as with NEIPAs.
The kit instructions also imply to wait until fermentation is done, 1.010 (or lower) being terminal gravity.
How are you going to add your dry hops? In a roomy bag or dropping them in loose?
Are they pellets or whole cones/flowers?
One more thing:
You've been opening that fermenter each time for a gravity reading. It would be much better to leave the lid on, as much as possible.
Each time you remove it, you (1) lose the headspace CO2(!) while (2) you're also opening your beer up to possible infections.
There are ways to take samples (e.g., for gravity readings) through the airlock hole in the lid: by means of a suck-siphon!
I can give you the directions how to do that if you're interested.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Yes she is still bubbling away i have managed to keep the temp at about 22c.
I have only opened the lid twice nice after a sterilisation including my hands. But i would definitely like to retain the co2….
I am guessing that you mean i can take the airlock off and insert a tube into the brew and suck siphon it into the gravity testing tube? If so i will try and find some pipe small enough to fit
Yeah, that was me. As the reptile just explained, you keep exposing your beer to oxygen. So while the instructions say to wait until fermentation is done or very close, I think it might be better if you still had a few points to go so you'd get the benefit of some more CO2 generation.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Also they are dried pellet hops.. and i will just be adding them to the FVYes she is still bubbling away i have managed to keep the temp at about 22c.
I have only opened the lid twice nice after a sterilisation including my hands. But i would definitely like to retain the co2….
I am guessing that you mean i can take the airlock off and insert a tube into the brew and suck siphon it into the gravity testing tube? If so i will try and find some pipe small enough to fit
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Ahh interesting. So the hops will release more co2 into the FV? Maybe i could add them as i get closer to 1.010 SG.
Thanks for the input
Not exactly. I just meant that you'll get a bit more CO2 if the beer is still a few points from final gravity when you dry hop. But there is a thing called hop creep - short explanation is that adding hops can actually cause the yeast to ferment a few more points (by breaking down some previously unfermentable carbohydrates). But that still isn't CO2 being released by or from the hops.
edit - should also note that there's a trade-off involved; the CO2 generated if you dry hop a bit early might protect the beer from some oxidation, but it can also blow some of the hop aroma you're looking for out the airlock.
When you're finished with this brew you might consider adding a plastic valve to the bottom of your bucket. The style I"m thinking of is plastic and the spigot part allows for a piece of tubing. Size it for the tubing size. And of course make sure it's all sanitized before using.
You'll be able to take samples without opening the lid.
When installing it follow the instructions, but you don't want to place directly at the bottom. Perhaps an inch above the bucket bottom. Your sample and transfers should be as clear as possible.
You'll be able to take samples without opening the lid.
When installing it follow the instructions, but you don't want to place directly at the bottom. Perhaps an inch above the bucket bottom. Your sample and transfers should be as clear as possible.
Those fermenter buckets should provide years of service. I know brewers that after decades of brewing still use them. As you skip down the road of brewing you'll invest in upgrades.
I started with a plastic trash can since an actual fermentation bucket was a stone crock. My progression next was a bucket then I fabricated a half barrel into a fermenter. Now I have a Spike CF10 conical.
I'm sure when you're not worrying about your first brew you're thinking about upgrades. Go slowly, make small changes at first so you can learn what each brings to the party. Get better at brewing, understanding that process then it'll make better sense where you want to go.
I started with a plastic trash can since an actual fermentation bucket was a stone crock. My progression next was a bucket then I fabricated a half barrel into a fermenter. Now I have a Spike CF10 conical.
I'm sure when you're not worrying about your first brew you're thinking about upgrades. Go slowly, make small changes at first so you can learn what each brings to the party. Get better at brewing, understanding that process then it'll make better sense where you want to go.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Thanks oakisland!
It sounds like you have brewing for a while and any advice is welcome.
You are correct that i already have a list of equipment i am about to order to upgrade hahaha!
This kit was a present so i am just using it to dip my toes in so to speak. Been wanting to brew for years though. I am about to dive straight into biab grain brewing as i want to really get involved and develop my recipes. I love real beer coming from England but where i live there is literally nothing about except very standard largers. Its more of a wine country out here.
Eager to learn the art of brewing, thanks again
Maybe add one of these stick on thermometer too, but a C scale:
I first started with wheat beers because I wasn't sure what style I really liked. When I first got into brewing trying to find ingredients was tough enough, there were no "brew pubs", no home brew shops and only a couple folks I knew that brewed their own.
Read what you can about malt types and hops, experiment a little. You're not breaking any cardinal sins by mixing things up. Typical lagers can be brewed as an ale.
Look for a copy of the BJCP guidelines. Training to become a beer judge really helped me understand many aspects of brewing and the flaws that can develop while brewing. Knowledge is King!
Brewing from kits Is a great way to get the basics down. Learn what each grain does for the recipe. The same with the hops. All of the ingredients develop that style of beer.Thanks oakisland!
It sounds like you have brewing for a while and any advice is welcome.
You are correct that i already have a list of equipment i am about to order to upgrade hahaha!
This kit was a present so i am just using it to dip my toes in so to speak. Been wanting to brew for years though. I am about to dive straight into biab grain brewing as i want to really get involved and develop my recipes. I love real beer coming from England but where i live there is literally nothing about except very standard largers. Its more of a wine country out here.
Eager to learn the art of brewing, thanks again
I first started with wheat beers because I wasn't sure what style I really liked. When I first got into brewing trying to find ingredients was tough enough, there were no "brew pubs", no home brew shops and only a couple folks I knew that brewed their own.
Read what you can about malt types and hops, experiment a little. You're not breaking any cardinal sins by mixing things up. Typical lagers can be brewed as an ale.
Look for a copy of the BJCP guidelines. Training to become a beer judge really helped me understand many aspects of brewing and the flaws that can develop while brewing. Knowledge is King!
Yeah, a skinny 1/8 - 3/16" ID PVC hose (tubing), about 2' long.I am guessing that you mean i can take the airlock off and insert a tube into the brew and suck siphon it into the gravity testing tube? If so i will try and find some pipe small enough to fit
Make sure the end on the outside of the bucket points downward before you start the suck, and is below the other end (on the inside).
Just collect your sample in a wide mouth (liter-size) plastic beaker of some sort. No need to try aim it into the narrow sample tube.
When done, pull the tube end out of the bucket, so no beer can flow back.
Rehearse the method with a bucket of water...
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
Nice, thanks for that i will source some appropriate tubing before the next reading
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
I was actually going to ask about brewing larger. From what I understand it is a cold fermentation that is required. 8-10c if i remember.
I live in a hot country and larger is the preferred beer in the summer. Ideally i would love to get into largers for the clear crispness they offer but you say i can brew larger at ale temps?
For a lager style of beer I would use an ale yeast instead. Look at the yeast and see what the temp range is.
Using a Kolsch yeast is a way to ferment warm then condition it at a cooler temp, just do that in your fridge.
I have never tried using a lager yeast at warmer temps. Again look at what the yeast manufacturer suggests for the temp range.
Using a Kolsch yeast is a way to ferment warm then condition it at a cooler temp, just do that in your fridge.
I have never tried using a lager yeast at warmer temps. Again look at what the yeast manufacturer suggests for the temp range.
Bagarge
Well-Known Member
So would i use a larger beer recipe and then use an ale style yeast?
I have some caves and water mines on the property that would be cool all year round or alternatively i have the ability to build an underground storage but hygiene might be an issue. This is obviously future talk but it is a possibility.
I read that the Bavarians used to use caves and ice to larger their beer.
Also i read that a fridge cannot usually go to the range needed for largering
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