Newbie already made a mistake?

[IslandLizard]

I didnt spill much at all.

Ah, good, because you do need all (at least most) of the yeast in it (11 grams dry) for a 20 liter batch up to 1.050-1.060 OG.

The packet ripped suddenly as i was trying to tear it carefully.

Use clean and sanitized scissors next time...
You only need to snip off a corner, makes it easier to sprinkle it onto the wort surface, too.

Sanitize the outside of the yeast package too, before cutting.

 

[Bagarge]

I haven't read every post here but have tried to follow along. You are getting some great advice from the folks here.

Being your first batch you're going to learn a lot that will help with future ones, take good notes. Having two or more hydrometers is a good investment, as noted, they break easily. Get or make one of those test tube holders, make sure it has a steady base.

Brewing will get better as you brew more batches. The overall process is fairly easy if you follow good brewing practices. We all started out just like you with loads of questions.

I love this forum already i have learnt loads and i am taking notes down

I feel like i have a good understanding of the basic brewing process and I definitely have the will to apply it. I love good beer and i live in a place where there is very little good beer avalible. Its a hot country so larger is the only option really. Of which there are two comercial choices…..

 

[Bagarge]

Ah, good, because you do need all (at least most) of the yeast in it (11 grams dry) for a 20 liter batch up to 1.050-1.060 OG.

Use clean and sanitized scissors next time...
You only need to snip off a corner, makes it easier to sprinkle it onto the wort surface, too.

Sanitize the outside of the yeast package too, before cutting.

Yeah im sure it was just a sprinkle. I did sanitise the outside of the pack but next time i will definitely be usong scissors hahaha! Was just all giddy to pitch my yeast
Thanks for the invaluable tips!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Everything in your Brewery needs to be clean and more importantly, sanitized! That's one of the most important points to stress. You can ferment your beer in an old boot if it's properly cleaned and sanitized!

 

[Bagarge]

Everything in your Brewery needs to be clean and more importantly, sanitized! That's one of the most important points to stress. You can ferment your beer in an old boot if it's properly cleaned and sanitized!

I have taken another gravity reading today.
I calibrated the hydrometer in distilled water at 20C and it was showing 1.000 so i guess that is all as it should be. The reading of the ale is at 1.020 today.
Any advice on adding the hops? One user said to just add them now but the kit instructions say 1.010 or below.
Also i need to wait until the S.G is stable of a few days before bottling correct?

 

[IslandLizard]

I have taken another gravity reading today.
I calibrated the hydrometer in distilled water at 20C and it was showing 1.000 so i guess that is all as it should be.

Ah, good to know she's accurately calibrated.

The reading of the ale is at 1.020 today.

That's 6 points lower than 2 days ago... That would hint to the gravity still dropping, and thus she's not done fermenting!
Leave it a few (3-6) more days... the warmer temps may have worked in your favor.

Any advice on adding the hops? One user said to just add them now but the kit instructions say 1.010 or below.

Dry hopping takes 3 days, and best added after fermentation has completed. There are exceptions, such as with NEIPAs.

The kit instructions also imply to wait until fermentation is done, 1.010 (or lower) being terminal gravity.

How are you going to add your dry hops? In a roomy bag or dropping them in loose?
Are they pellets or whole cones/flowers?

One more thing:
You've been opening that fermenter each time for a gravity reading. It would be much better to leave the lid on, as much as possible.
Each time you remove it, you (1) lose the headspace CO2(!) while (2) you're also opening your beer up to possible infections.

There are ways to take samples (e.g., for gravity readings) through the airlock hole in the lid: by means of a suck-siphon!
I can give you the directions how to do that if you're interested.

 

[Bagarge]

Ah, good to know she's accurately calibrated.


That's 6 points lower than 2 days ago... That would hint to the gravity still dropping, and thus she's not done fermenting!
Leave it a few (3-6) more days... the warmer temps may have worked in your favor.


Dry hopping takes 3 days, and best added after fermentation has completed. There are exceptions, such as with NEIPAs.

The kit instructions also imply to wait until fermentation is done, 1.010 (or lower) being terminal gravity.

How are you going to add your dry hops? In a roomy bag or dropping them in loose?
Are they pellets or whole cones/flowers?

One more thing:
You've been opening that fermenter each time for a gravity reading. It would be much better to leave the lid on, as much as possible.
Each time you remove it, you (1) lose the headspace CO2(!) while (2) you're also opening your beer up to possible infections.

There are ways to take samples (e.g., for gravity readings) through the airlock hole in the lid: by means of a suck-siphon!
I can give you the directions how to do that if you're interested.

Yes she is still bubbling away i have managed to keep the temp at about 22c.

I have only opened the lid twice nice after a sterilisation including my hands. But i would definitely like to retain the co2….

I am guessing that you mean i can take the airlock off and insert a tube into the brew and suck siphon it into the gravity testing tube? If so i will try and find some pipe small enough to fit

 

[mac_1103]

Any advice on adding the hops? One user said to just add them now but the kit instructions say 1.010 or below.

Yeah, that was me. As the reptile just explained, you keep exposing your beer to oxygen. So while the instructions say to wait until fermentation is done or very close, I think it might be better if you still had a few points to go so you'd get the benefit of some more CO2 generation.

 

[Bagarge]

Yes she is still bubbling away i have managed to keep the temp at about 22c.

I have only opened the lid twice nice after a sterilisation including my hands. But i would definitely like to retain the co2….

I am guessing that you mean i can take the airlock off and insert a tube into the brew and suck siphon it into the gravity testing tube? If so i will try and find some pipe small enough to fit

Also they are dried pellet hops.. and i will just be adding them to the FV

 

[Bagarge]

Yeah, that was me. As the reptile just explained, you keep exposing your beer to oxygen. So while the instructions say to wait until fermentation is done or very close, I think it might be better if you still had a few points to go so you'd get the benefit of some more CO2 generation.

Ahh interesting. So the hops will release more co2 into the FV? Maybe i could add them as i get closer to 1.010 SG.
Thanks for the input

 

[mac_1103]

So the hops will release more co2 into the FV?

Not exactly. I just meant that you'll get a bit more CO2 if the beer is still a few points from final gravity when you dry hop. But there is a thing called hop creep - short explanation is that adding hops can actually cause the yeast to ferment a few more points (by breaking down some previously unfermentable carbohydrates). But that still isn't CO2 being released by or from the hops.

edit - should also note that there's a trade-off involved; the CO2 generated if you dry hop a bit early might protect the beer from some oxidation, but it can also blow some of the hop aroma you're looking for out the airlock.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

When you're finished with this brew you might consider adding a plastic valve to the bottom of your bucket. The style I"m thinking of is plastic and the spigot part allows for a piece of tubing. Size it for the tubing size. And of course make sure it's all sanitized before using.

You'll be able to take samples without opening the lid.

When installing it follow the instructions, but you don't want to place directly at the bottom. Perhaps an inch above the bucket bottom. Your sample and transfers should be as clear as possible.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Those fermenter buckets should provide years of service. I know brewers that after decades of brewing still use them. As you skip down the road of brewing you'll invest in upgrades.

I started with a plastic trash can since an actual fermentation bucket was a stone crock. My progression next was a bucket then I fabricated a half barrel into a fermenter. Now I have a Spike CF10 conical.

I'm sure when you're not worrying about your first brew you're thinking about upgrades. Go slowly, make small changes at first so you can learn what each brings to the party. Get better at brewing, understanding that process then it'll make better sense where you want to go.

 

[Bagarge]

Those fermenter buckets should provide years of service. I know brewers that after decades of brewing still use them. As you skip down the road of brewing you'll invest in upgrades.

I started with a plastic trash can since an actual fermentation bucket was a stone crock. My progression next was a bucket then I fabricated a half barrel into a fermenter. Now I have a Spike CF10 conical.

I'm sure when you're not worrying about your first brew you're thinking about upgrades. Go slowly, make small changes at first so you can learn what each brings to the party. Get better at brewing, understanding that process then it'll make better sense where you want to go.

Thanks oakisland!

It sounds like you have brewing for a while and any advice is welcome.

You are correct that i already have a list of equipment i am about to order to upgrade hahaha!

This kit was a present so i am just using it to dip my toes in so to speak. Been wanting to brew for years though. I am about to dive straight into biab grain brewing as i want to really get involved and develop my recipes. I love real beer coming from England but where i live there is literally nothing about except very standard largers. Its more of a wine country out here.

Eager to learn the art of brewing, thanks again

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Maybe add one of these stick on thermometer too, but a C scale:

Thanks oakisland!

It sounds like you have brewing for a while and any advice is welcome.

You are correct that i already have a list of equipment i am about to order to upgrade hahaha!

This kit was a present so i am just using it to dip my toes in so to speak. Been wanting to brew for years though. I am about to dive straight into biab grain brewing as i want to really get involved and develop my recipes. I love real beer coming from England but where i live there is literally nothing about except very standard largers. Its more of a wine country out here.

Eager to learn the art of brewing, thanks again

Brewing from kits Is a great way to get the basics down. Learn what each grain does for the recipe. The same with the hops. All of the ingredients develop that style of beer.

I first started with wheat beers because I wasn't sure what style I really liked. When I first got into brewing trying to find ingredients was tough enough, there were no "brew pubs", no home brew shops and only a couple folks I knew that brewed their own.

Read what you can about malt types and hops, experiment a little. You're not breaking any cardinal sins by mixing things up. Typical lagers can be brewed as an ale.

Look for a copy of the BJCP guidelines. Training to become a beer judge really helped me understand many aspects of brewing and the flaws that can develop while brewing. Knowledge is King!

 

[IslandLizard]

I am guessing that you mean i can take the airlock off and insert a tube into the brew and suck siphon it into the gravity testing tube? If so i will try and find some pipe small enough to fit

Yeah, a skinny 1/8 - 3/16" ID PVC hose (tubing), about 2' long.

Make sure the end on the outside of the bucket points downward before you start the suck, and is below the other end (on the inside).

Just collect your sample in a wide mouth (liter-size) plastic beaker of some sort. No need to try aim it into the narrow sample tube.

When done, pull the tube end out of the bucket, so no beer can flow back.
Rehearse the method with a bucket of water...

 

[Bagarge]

Yeah, a skinny 1/8 - 3/16" ID PVC hose (tubing), about 2' long.

Make sure the end on the outside of the bucket points downward before you start the suck, and is below the other end (on the inside).

Just collect your sample in a wide mouth (liter-size) plastic beaker of some sort. No need to try aim it into the narrow sample tube.

When done, pull the tube end out of the bucket, so no beer can flow back.
Rehearse the method with a bucket of water...

Nice, thanks for that i will source some appropriate tubing before the next reading

 

[Bagarge]

Maybe add one of these stick on thermometer too, but a C scale:
View attachment 841255

Brewing from kits Is a great way to get the basics down. Learn what each grain does for the recipe. The same with the hops. All of the ingredients develop that style of beer.

I first started with wheat beers because I wasn't sure what style I really liked. When I first got into brewing trying to find ingredients was tough enough, there were no "brew pubs", no home brew shops and only a couple folks I knew that brewed their own.

Read what you can about malt types and hops, experiment a little. You're not breaking any cardinal sins by mixing things up. Typical lagers can be brewed as an ale.

Look for a copy of the BJCP guidelines. Training to become a beer judge really helped me understand many aspects of brewing and the flaws that can develop while brewing. Knowledge is King!

I was actually going to ask about brewing larger. From what I understand it is a cold fermentation that is required. 8-10c if i remember.

I live in a hot country and larger is the preferred beer in the summer. Ideally i would love to get into largers for the clear crispness they offer but you say i can brew larger at ale temps?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

For a lager style of beer I would use an ale yeast instead. Look at the yeast and see what the temp range is.

Using a Kolsch yeast is a way to ferment warm then condition it at a cooler temp, just do that in your fridge.

I have never tried using a lager yeast at warmer temps. Again look at what the yeast manufacturer suggests for the temp range.

 

[Bagarge]

For a lager style of beer I would use an ale yeast instead. Look at the yeast and see what the temp range is.

Using a Kolsch yeast is a way to ferment warm then condition it at a cooler temp, just do that in your fridge.

I have never tried using a lager yeast at warmer temps. Again look at what the yeast manufacturer suggests for the temp range.

So would i use a larger beer recipe and then use an ale style yeast?

I have some caves and water mines on the property that would be cool all year round or alternatively i have the ability to build an underground storage but hygiene might be an issue. This is obviously future talk but it is a possibility.

I read that the Bavarians used to use caves and ice to larger their beer.

Also i read that a fridge cannot usually go to the range needed for largering

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Oh, man, you got caves? Sweet! You could have a great spot for true lagering.

To your question, yes brew a lager style of beer but use an ale yeast. I would explore those caves, safely, and see if you could utilize them for your beer storage. That's what was used before refrigeration.

When I say using the fridge, I mean just use it to condition your beer not lager it. It's really just a spot to keep it cold and give it time to settle out to clear the beer. After it has cleared up some folks transfer to another keg before serving. I skip that and serve from the same keg. You're going to get some cloudiness in first couple pints but no big deal. Dump or drink it, doesn't matter. I drink it.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I brew many typical lager styles as ales and they turn out fine. Lots of folks will disagree with that idea but it works for me and most can't taste the difference. I like the results it offers in my brews and in the end I'm brewing for me.

If you're entering a beer into competition I wouldn't suggest it and there's many purists out there that would condemn it.

 

[Bagarge]

Oh, man, you got caves? Sweet! You could have a great spot for true lagering.

To your question, yes brew a lager style of beer but use an ale yeast. I would explore those caves, safely, and see if you could utilize them for your beer storage. That's what was used before refrigeration.

When I say using the fridge, I mean just use it to condition your beer not lager it. It's really just a spot to keep it cold and give it time to settle out to clear the beer. After it has cleared up some folks transfer to another keg before serving. I skip that and serve from the same keg. You're going to get some cloudiness in first couple pints but no big deal. Dump or drink it, doesn't matter. I drink it.

Yeah i have a couple deep water mine caves, about 20 metres in and 7/10 metres below ground level.

I would like to produce some decent larger beers in the future to accommodate the local palette. Like i said its mainly a wine country but everyone drinks the largers on a hot day. Its a big drinking country here haha! I would like to offer something similar but better. Shouldnt be hard as there is literally 2 brands of commercial larger available.

I think i will get my basics dialled down before i attempt some true larger though.

I read that brewing under pressure can emphasise the larger quality?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Not sure that pressurized fermenting improves quality. The quality part needs to be achieved with either an ale or a lager during the brewing. Not sure what you mean

I have tried the pressure part before but I have mixed opinions on it. If you search it here you'll get a better idea than I can give you.

Like you mentioned there's lots to learn and that might be something to research more when you get more comfortable with brewing itself.

I know where you're at being overwhelmed with everything brewing related. Take it slow and learn as you go then the more advanced options will make better sense.

 

[Stikius]

You could also try fermentis s-23. I've brewed lagers around 18-20°C with that yeast that were really good.

 

[Rish]

Go to our:

Warm Fermented Lager Thread​

Tons of information that may help you there. Good luck!

 

[Bagarge]

Update:

So its been 20 days now fermenting, temps have been a bit hard to control in the very early mornings and may have dipped to 17c.

Took a SG reading today at day 20 and it is 1.016

Only 2 points from 4 days ago. Shall i go ahead and add my hops?

The kit says wait for a reading of 1.010 but maybe i wont get there
Opinions?

 

[Stikius]

I suggest to take a new reading tomorrow or next day. If it's still dropping it's still fermenting. I usually wait for the readings to be stable for 2 or 3 days.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I agree, letting it sit a couple more days won't hurt anything. Actually giving the bucket a slight shake might help the yeast a little, come out if it's slumber. Just a slight jiggle, and be careful.

It's possible the yeast just stopped working its magic. It's not the end of the world if it's done but something to note for your next brew.

 

[IslandLizard]

temps have been a bit hard to control in the very early mornings and may have dipped to 17c.

That's why many of us homebrewers use a (dedicated) fermentation chamber, usually an (old) fridge (or freezer) controlled by an external thermostat (e.g., Inkbird ITC-308). Most of those thermostats have 2 channels, a cooling and warming channel.

During colder times a (small) heating source (heating pad, small space heater, reptile lamp, etc.) kicks in when ferm temps drop below the set target.

There are a few other options for regulating ferm temps. Key is to keep them stable. Low-ish in the beginning to prevent the yeast from binging, creating bad tasting fusel alcohols. Then ramp up a few degrees toward the end, to help her staying engaged, to finish out, and condition the beer by metabolizing fermentation byproducts into yummy esters.

Took a SG reading today at day 20 and it is 1.016

Only 2 points from 4 days ago. Shall i go ahead and add my hops?

Patience is a virtue when brewing/fermenting. After a few brews, you'll get used to it.
It's going slow toward the end, for a variety of reasons: finishing up while slowly nibbling off a few extra points.