Did you adjust the PH up or down on the sparge?
Citra/Mosaic 6.4% crusher IPA made by blckout20 and I for his wedding yesterday. Changed the PH of the sparge on this one thanks to natejohnson 's advice, which seems to have done well to prevent any astringency. Mashed high as hell on this one (158ish) and got some nice unfermentable sugars to hang around. Extremely gratifying to hear the reactions of others trying the beer and comparing it alongside trillium and treehouse.
Probably down. 5.4 pH Sparge Water is what I use to avoid tannin extractionDid you adjust the PH up or down on the sparge?
Citra/Mosaic 6.4% crusher IPA made by blckout20 and I for his wedding yesterday. Changed the PH of the sparge on this one thanks to natejohnson 's advice, which seems to have done well to prevent any astringency. Mashed high as hell on this one (158ish) and got some nice unfermentable sugars to hang around. Extremely gratifying to hear the reactions of others trying the beer and comparing it alongside trillium and treehouse.
Glad to post more detail about the recipe once I'm home later.Mind sharing a basic rundown of the grain bill? Would love to get a color like that.
Did you adjust the PH up or down on the sparge?
Yep, aiming for 5.3-5.4! Keep the PH range consistentProbably down. 5.4 pH Sparge Water is what I use to avoid tannin extraction
Mind sharing a basic rundown of the grain bill? Would love to get a color like that.
Here I am, weeks later. Sorry about that!Glad to post more detail about the recipe once I'm home later.
- Mash on the high side (156*F) around 5.3 ph with ideally 2-2.5:1 sulfate to chloride. Sparge at the same ph. These pieces are all very important.
Who knows, there could be better ways!Pretty high sulfate/chloride ratio for what I've seen/used personally for NE IPAs! In my experience closer to 1:1 S04/Cl helped with that "airy" mouthfeel I'm looking for in this style compared to when I was using a more "traditional" water profile for west coast IPAs. Your results look like they're turning out just fine w/o however!
Who knows, there could be better ways!
My thinking is that the ratio I gave is based on water profile alone and that the end ratio would be different because malts contribute a huge amount of chloride during a mash. I really should get one of my beers lab analyzed...
I use the local water supplier's annual report and add gypsum, CaCl and Epsom salt to strike and sparge and use acidulated malt or lactic to balance ph. For baseline calculations I use a slightly modified version of the EZwater calc. spreadsheet.Do you have a water report? Do you add salts to your strike water?
This is an excellent set of guidelines - produced a near-perfect NEIPA for a party on Saturday. No chilling equipment on the fermenter so a bit murkier than I'd like, but flavourwise and aroma were bang-on.Here I am, weeks later. Sorry about that!
Basic shorthand for what I have been doing for a hoppy beer with nothing aggressive about it. I didn't invent any of it, it's just a hodgepodge of things suggested by popular brewers in my region. This is something I have spent a decent amount of time playing with, but by no means am I qualified in any way, so this is only for curiosity sake.
Grist for a light beer, 6-6.5% crusher for summer fun.
I aim for 9+ gallons packaged, 10.5 fermented
48% Pilsner malt (none of that red pilsner ****)
15% Marris Otter
23% Pale 2-Row
7% White Wheat
5% Flaked Wheat
1% C10
1% Carapils
You could definitely not do this whacky base malt mix... This is just the grist that yielded that beer. Mash thickness is probably a factor, mine was about 1.34 qt/lb.
- Mash on the high side (156*F) around 5.3 ph with ideally 2-2.5:1 sulfate to chloride. Sparge at the same ph. These pieces are all very important.
- Hop lightly at 45 with Columbus or Warrior. (1/2 oz per 6 gallons or so)
- Hop about twice as heavily with some good flavor hops at 5, then again at 0 with a natural drop for a few minutes.
- Hop a decent amount around or after 190* for 20 mins or so.
- Cool quickly down to 70*
- Infuse O2, preferably not by shaking.
- Pitch a starter of 1318, 002 or 007 London Ale 3. I use 1318 and it does great but I am thinking of running two yeast strains next time and see which keg comes out better.
- Once active primary slows on day 4 or 5, I was adding hops, but lately I have been waiting and just dry hopping later. Your call.
- Rouse yeast by free rising to 68* ambient (controlled) and finish strong for another 7 days or so. Dry hop pretty heavily, a few ounces or more per 5 gallons for the last 3 days. If the vessel seems to adequately prevent oxidation you can shake it to stir the hops around occasionally.
- Once at terminal gravity for 3 days, cool at 36* for a couple days.
- Keg to CO2 purged keg, carefully blowing off the headspace and then preventing further CO2 blowoff until keg is kicked. No aroma waste!
- I carb to like 2.1 Vols and then see how I like the beer typically.
- The beer always tastes better 10 or more days after packaging, about 24 days from brew. Some people who like hop kicks in the face and don't mind garlic or spiciness would probably disagree.
At this point, I am not keg hopping and I am dropping the yeast and hop matter substantially with the cold crash. The beer is great, still has heavy body because of the grist and high mash.
We did a Warrior:Amarillo:Mosaic:Citra for the last one with Amarillo being used only lightly for flavoring @ 0 and in dry hop and Mosaic being mostly in the dry hop and whirlpool steep. Keep some of those hops respective dank flavors at bay.
1:1:4:8 type deal I think
This is an excellent set of guidelines - produced a near-perfect NEIPA for a party on Saturday. No chilling equipment on the fermenter so a bit murkier than I'd like, but flavourwise and aroma were bang-on.
Pretty high sulfate/chloride ratio for what I've seen/used personally for NE IPAs! In my experience closer to 1:1 S04/Cl helped with that "airy" mouthfeel I'm looking for in this style compared to when I was using a more "traditional" water profile for west coast IPAs. Your results look like they're turning out just fine w/o however!
I wanted to add to this, since I didn't really dig into the question earlier.[/QUOTE]Who knows, there could be better ways!
My thinking is that the ratio I gave is based on water profile alone and that the end ratio would be different because malts contribute a huge amount of chloride during a mash. I really should get one of my beers lab analyzed...
I wanted to expand on this a little since my answer doesn't really get into the deeper stuff. This article is killer to get into some psuedo science on the topic of mineral contributions from malts;I wanted to add to this, since I didn't really dig into the question earlier.
I messed this post up yet again. Fixed for me.I wanted to add to this, since I didn't really dig into the question earlier.
I wanted to expand on this a little since my answer doesn't really get into the deeper stuff. This article is killer to get into some psuedo science on the topic of mineral contributions from malts;
lab analysis of Heady Topper. (posted earlier in this thread)
I basically go about 3:2 S04/Cl (roughly) as far as my additions. I am counting on my malt to contribute a substantial amount of Cl as shown in the analysis in the thread above. At the end of the day I aim to end up 2:1 at about 600-700:300-350 PPM SO4/Cl in my finished beer, but a lot of that Cl should be coming from the malts.
So what you are saying here is aligned with my intentions, my approach to balancing the end water just involves using malt contributions as well. If only I could get my water and every beer lab analyzed I would be nerding out on this stuff so hard.
I liked that hop bill a lot, I will use it again. Right now I am really Citra x Nelson.I just realized your hop bill is the same as our house IPA, although I use equal proportions of Amarillo, citra, and mosaic.
NE Pale Ale is effing delicious! Best aroma I've had in a hoppy beer!
Not murky/sludgy enough.
NE Pale Ale is effing delicious! Best aroma I've had in a hoppy beer!
What hops did you use?
Not murky/sludgy enough.
Reported.
Bittered with Simcoe, late hop and whirlpool with equal parts 2015 Mosaic and new harvest Nelson Sauvin. Dry hopped with equal parts Mosaic and Nelson too.Hell yeah, Andrew! Rad. What hops did you use?
Next time you are heading to VT hit me up and maybe we can share a beer at HF again. I will bring some homebrews .
Hey guys,
First attempt at brewing beer was a NE IPA, dryhopped it today. Plan on kegging some too. If you dryhop with a decent amount of hops, would it be recommended to dryhop a second time in the keg?
Murky pics incoming!
Cheers!
So this may warrant a very RDWHAHB response for a first post, but I've got a couple questions here. About a week and a half ago I brewed a 3.5 gallon batch and am finishing putting together my kegging setup this afternoon. Aiming to get the beer in the keg via closed transfer in the next couple days and hopefully have it ready to serve by next weekend. It's my third all grain batch so I'm definitely a beginner, but I used distilled and treated it, fermented under temperature control, and in general was more careful this time than my first attempts, so so far I think it's on track to be good.
I used the following hop schedule:
60 min: .25 oz Warrior
5 min: .5 oz Columbus
Flameout/Hop steep for 20 min: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo
Dry hop at high krausen: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo
So, 1 - do I have enough hops in there yet? Ideally it'd be in the Zombie Dust/Fort Point Pale Ale ballpark rather than "DDH" ballpark.
2 - if not, am I more at risk of oxidation opening the lid to dry hop more now, or in keg hopping (which would make it so I can't water/starsan purge the keg before transfer)? Fwiw it's in a 5 gallon big mouth bubbler so there's nearly 2 gallons of headspace right now - I'm assuming this makes opening the lid a little/lot worse than it would be if I were full.
3 - Do I need to cold crash at some point and am I better off doing that now or when it's in the keg?
Last thing, I'm going to have to open the lid anyways at some point to set up the closed transfer, as I just got the dual port lid in the mail yesterday. I figure that's less of a big deal if I'm transferring right after the exchange, rather than today when it'd be sitting in the fermenter for at least another 48 hours after.
It's probably enough hops. I would keg and sample once it's carbonated. If you feel like it needs more then open the keg and add more hops.
that's a good way to mentos and diet coke your keg.
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