New England Esque IPA

[psnydez861]

NEPA with 2014 Exp Lemon Naughty hops from YVH. Pretty nice hop, although it's quite subtle. Mix of Lemon zest/ melon notes with some herby resiny stuff as well. Pretty complex. Did 4 oz in the kettle then 4 oz in the dry hop. Been on tap for a couple weeks.

 

[JulianB1]

Latest batch of my NE-style IPA is absolutely killer, much better than the first. Also this time I don't think it's going to get oxidized as I invested in the equipment to transfer and keg the beer entirely with CO2. I feel like this made a noticable difference in the quality, plus once I got the system going it was much simpler than siphoning, especially the cleanup. Highly recommended to anyone looking to brew these styles of beers.

The beer itself consists of a grist of 2-row, white wheat, flaked wheat, flaked oats, and carapils, was hopped with citra and mosaic in equal amounts (2oz boil hops, 2oz flameout, 2oz primary dry-hop, and 4oz secondary dry-hop), and fermented with RVA yeast labs "Hoptopper" yeast, which is the Conan strain (aka Heady Topper yeast). OG was 1.071 and FG was 1.008, for an ABV of 8%, so straddling the single/double IPA line. Might dial the grain bill down a bit next time, but got about 10% better efficiency than usual for some reason (~77% instead of the mid-60s that I usually hit).

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Citra/Mosaic 6.4% crusher IPA made by blckout20 and I for his wedding yesterday. Changed the PH of the sparge on this one thanks to natejohnson 's advice, which seems to have done well to prevent any astringency. Mashed high as hell on this one (158ish) and got some nice unfermentable sugars to hang around. Extremely gratifying to hear the reactions of others trying the beer and comparing it alongside trillium and treehouse.

 

[drgarage1]

Citra/Mosaic 6.4% crusher IPA made by blckout20 and I for his wedding yesterday. Changed the PH of the sparge on this one thanks to natejohnson 's advice, which seems to have done well to prevent any astringency. Mashed high as hell on this one (158ish) and got some nice unfermentable sugars to hang around. Extremely gratifying to hear the reactions of others trying the beer and comparing it alongside trillium and treehouse.

Did you adjust the PH up or down on the sparge?

 

[Vogt52]

Did you adjust the PH up or down on the sparge?

Probably down. 5.4 pH Sparge Water is what I use to avoid tannin extraction

 

[Ziggy]

Citra/Mosaic 6.4% crusher IPA made by blckout20 and I for his wedding yesterday. Changed the PH of the sparge on this one thanks to natejohnson 's advice, which seems to have done well to prevent any astringency. Mashed high as hell on this one (158ish) and got some nice unfermentable sugars to hang around. Extremely gratifying to hear the reactions of others trying the beer and comparing it alongside trillium and treehouse.

Mind sharing a basic rundown of the grain bill? Would love to get a color like that.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Mind sharing a basic rundown of the grain bill? Would love to get a color like that.

Glad to post more detail about the recipe once I'm home later.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Did you adjust the PH up or down on the sparge?

Probably down. 5.4 pH Sparge Water is what I use to avoid tannin extraction

Yep, aiming for 5.3-5.4! Keep the PH range consistent

 

[More Betterness]

Dry hop keg to serving keg transfer got pretty radioactive looking at the end there!

 

[Vogt52]

Second attempt at the new England style pale ale. This is the diarrhea water I brewed today. Two row, white wheat, Carapils, and flaked oats. Galaxy, Citra and Mosaic. Trying WLP644 for extra fruitiness

 

[More Betterness]

Great for the lake trip!

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Mind sharing a basic rundown of the grain bill? Would love to get a color like that.

Glad to post more detail about the recipe once I'm home later.

Here I am, weeks later. Sorry about that!


Basic shorthand for what I have been doing for a hoppy beer with nothing aggressive about it. I didn't invent any of it, it's just a hodgepodge of things suggested by popular brewers in my region. This is something I have spent a decent amount of time playing with, but by no means am I qualified in any way, so this is only for curiosity sake.

Grist for a light beer, 6-6.5% crusher for summer fun.
I aim for 9+ gallons packaged, 10.5 fermented
48% Pilsner malt (none of that red pilsner ****)
15% Marris Otter
23% Pale 2-Row
7% White Wheat
5% Flaked Wheat
1% C10
1% Carapils

You could definitely not do this whacky base malt mix... This is just the grist that yielded that beer. Mash thickness is probably a factor, mine was about 1.34 qt/lb.

• Mash on the high side (156*F) around 5.3 ph with ideally 2-2.5:1 sulfate to chloride. Sparge at the same ph. These pieces are all very important.
• Hop lightly at 45 with Columbus or Warrior. (1/2 oz per 6 gallons or so)
• Hop about twice as heavily with some good flavor hops at 5, then again at 0 with a natural drop for a few minutes.
• Hop a decent amount around or after 190* for 20 mins or so.
• Cool quickly down to 70*
• Infuse O2, preferably not by shaking.
• Pitch a starter of 1318, 002 or 007 London Ale 3. I use 1318 and it does great but I am thinking of running two yeast strains next time and see which keg comes out better.
• Once active primary slows on day 4 or 5, I was adding hops, but lately I have been waiting and just dry hopping later. Your call.
• Rouse yeast by free rising to 68* ambient (controlled) and finish strong for another 7 days or so. Dry hop pretty heavily, a few ounces or more per 5 gallons for the last 3 days. If the vessel seems to adequately prevent oxidation you can shake it to stir the hops around occasionally.
• Once at terminal gravity for 3 days, cool at 36* for a couple days.
• Keg to CO2 purged keg, carefully blowing off the headspace and then preventing further CO2 blowoff until keg is kicked. No aroma waste!
• I carb to like 2.1 Vols and then see how I like the beer typically.
• The beer always tastes better 10 or more days after packaging, about 24 days from brew. Some people who like hop kicks in the face and don't mind garlic or spiciness would probably disagree.

At this point, I am not keg hopping and I am dropping the yeast and hop matter substantially with the cold crash. The beer is great, still has heavy body because of the grist and high mash.

We did a Warrior:Amarillo:Mosaic:Citra for the last one with Amarillo being used only lightly for flavoring @ 0 and in dry hop and Mosaic being mostly in the dry hop and whirlpool steep. Keep some of those hops respective dank flavors at bay.

1:1:4:8 type deal I think

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Oh, the first 5 days of primary after the 70* yeast pitch should be 62* ambient fermentation max.

 

[More Betterness]

• Mash on the high side (156*F) around 5.3 ph with ideally 2-2.5:1 sulfate to chloride. Sparge at the same ph. These pieces are all very important.

Pretty high sulfate/chloride ratio for what I've seen/used personally for NE IPAs! In my experience closer to 1:1 S04/Cl helped with that "airy" mouthfeel I'm looking for in this style compared to when I was using a more "traditional" water profile for west coast IPAs. Your results look like they're turning out just fine w/o however!

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Pretty high sulfate/chloride ratio for what I've seen/used personally for NE IPAs! In my experience closer to 1:1 S04/Cl helped with that "airy" mouthfeel I'm looking for in this style compared to when I was using a more "traditional" water profile for west coast IPAs. Your results look like they're turning out just fine w/o however!

Who knows, there could be better ways!

My thinking is that the ratio I gave is based on water profile alone and that the end ratio would be different because malts contribute a huge amount of chloride during a mash. I really should get one of my beers lab analyzed...

 

[Vogt52]

Who knows, there could be better ways!

My thinking is that the ratio I gave is based on water profile alone and that the end ratio would be different because malts contribute a huge amount of chloride during a mash. I really should get one of my beers lab analyzed...

Do you have a water report? Do you add salts to your strike water?

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Do you have a water report? Do you add salts to your strike water?

I use the local water supplier's annual report and add gypsum, CaCl and Epsom salt to strike and sparge and use acidulated malt or lactic to balance ph. For baseline calculations I use a slightly modified version of the EZwater calc. spreadsheet.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Brewed a double batch of what is becoming a house pale for me, a riff on Matt's wedding beer with a couple buddies two weeks ago.
Decided to experiment with a couple different London Ale 3 strains of yeast.

1318 and WL007. I had heard 007 was close to what Trillium uses, so I wanted to try it out.
The yeast starter on the right has that Trillium look.

Adjusted the water profile a little on this one. Used lactic instead of acidulated malt. Whirlpooled a lot of aroma hops. Fermentation went like crazy and hit terminal really quick. The 007 is pretty damn dry, ended up .004 lower (1.016 vs 1.012). The esters smell more like pear to me than the more fruit punchy kind of smell I tend to get on 1318. This may be because the fermentation wasn't regulated as thoroughly as the 1318 fermenter was due to space constraints. 1318 throws banana/bubblegum/Clove when it ferments to vigorously, so I would rather pear, if that is the case. I am very happy with how these beers have been coming together.

I used some galaxy in the dry hop of the 007 batch and I think it was a sub par bag, going to toss the rest.

Nonetheless, I am excited. These beers are both fairly carbonated and in 7 days after the malt develops a little I will post some notes and further reflections.

Next time I am going to just use water and lactic and then add the salts in the boil and not the mash. I would rather simplify the equations i need to do- adjust acidity upfront and then build water during the boil.

Of course we had to drink a couple beers as well.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Pales in Comparison 2 and 1, respectively:

Left is the 007 yeast beer, right is 1318.

The 1318 Nelson dominant beer, PiC1. It's putting a big smile on my face. Just the epitome of a crossover between modern hoppy ipas and crusher beers. I might experiment with a 'double' version of this soon. This picture has a shitty foam head because I left it out for a little to experiment with it at different temperatures.

The 007 yeast definitely has a 'Trillium-esque' character to it. It's dry and feels a little lighter because of that.

Both are distinctly London Ale 3-when conditioned to express mildly, they are expressive in a way that almost comes across as part of the hop bouquet.

Also worth noting- these beers have been cold conditioned for weeks. They still look this crazy. It's not flour, it's not even really a very heavy frost of adjuncts and wheat, mostly base malts. Those yeast strains and hops just make some crazy murky beer by all my experience. So ****ing weird that the same yeast will drop bright if used differently.

I don't think 007 is what I want to use and will continue to propegate 1318 for my beer. Next batch will get different dry hops but not yeasts. Or maybe I will try a different London Ale 3 strain. We will see, should be very soon. Maybe this coming week.

 

[ScottJWing]

Forgot about this thread! Here's a tasty DIPA w Dr Rudi hops a friend and i brewed and kegged for a music festival over the summer. Named Captain Chuckie after some dude we met delivering mail from camp to camp the year before who travels the country with the Rainbow Family. We ran into him again this year and he was on DMT. He drank some and loved it.

 

[liquiddegenerate]

3,2,1

 

[andrewdrinks]

Here I am, weeks later. Sorry about that!


Basic shorthand for what I have been doing for a hoppy beer with nothing aggressive about it. I didn't invent any of it, it's just a hodgepodge of things suggested by popular brewers in my region. This is something I have spent a decent amount of time playing with, but by no means am I qualified in any way, so this is only for curiosity sake.

Grist for a light beer, 6-6.5% crusher for summer fun.
I aim for 9+ gallons packaged, 10.5 fermented
48% Pilsner malt (none of that red pilsner ****)
15% Marris Otter
23% Pale 2-Row
7% White Wheat
5% Flaked Wheat
1% C10
1% Carapils

You could definitely not do this whacky base malt mix... This is just the grist that yielded that beer. Mash thickness is probably a factor, mine was about 1.34 qt/lb.

• Mash on the high side (156*F) around 5.3 ph with ideally 2-2.5:1 sulfate to chloride. Sparge at the same ph. These pieces are all very important.
• Hop lightly at 45 with Columbus or Warrior. (1/2 oz per 6 gallons or so)
• Hop about twice as heavily with some good flavor hops at 5, then again at 0 with a natural drop for a few minutes.
• Hop a decent amount around or after 190* for 20 mins or so.
• Cool quickly down to 70*
• Infuse O2, preferably not by shaking.
• Pitch a starter of 1318, 002 or 007 London Ale 3. I use 1318 and it does great but I am thinking of running two yeast strains next time and see which keg comes out better.
• Once active primary slows on day 4 or 5, I was adding hops, but lately I have been waiting and just dry hopping later. Your call.
• Rouse yeast by free rising to 68* ambient (controlled) and finish strong for another 7 days or so. Dry hop pretty heavily, a few ounces or more per 5 gallons for the last 3 days. If the vessel seems to adequately prevent oxidation you can shake it to stir the hops around occasionally.
• Once at terminal gravity for 3 days, cool at 36* for a couple days.
• Keg to CO2 purged keg, carefully blowing off the headspace and then preventing further CO2 blowoff until keg is kicked. No aroma waste!
• I carb to like 2.1 Vols and then see how I like the beer typically.
• The beer always tastes better 10 or more days after packaging, about 24 days from brew. Some people who like hop kicks in the face and don't mind garlic or spiciness would probably disagree.

At this point, I am not keg hopping and I am dropping the yeast and hop matter substantially with the cold crash. The beer is great, still has heavy body because of the grist and high mash.

We did a Warrior:Amarillo:Mosaic:Citra for the last one with Amarillo being used only lightly for flavoring @ 0 and in dry hop and Mosaic being mostly in the dry hop and whirlpool steep. Keep some of those hops respective dank flavors at bay.

1:1:4:8 type deal I think

This is an excellent set of guidelines - produced a near-perfect NEIPA for a party on Saturday. No chilling equipment on the fermenter so a bit murkier than I'd like, but flavourwise and aroma were bang-on.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

This is an excellent set of guidelines - produced a near-perfect NEIPA for a party on Saturday. No chilling equipment on the fermenter so a bit murkier than I'd like, but flavourwise and aroma were bang-on.

Hell yeah, Andrew! Rad. What hops did you use?

Next time you are heading to VT hit me up and maybe we can share a beer at HF again. I will bring some homebrews .

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

Pretty high sulfate/chloride ratio for what I've seen/used personally for NE IPAs! In my experience closer to 1:1 S04/Cl helped with that "airy" mouthfeel I'm looking for in this style compared to when I was using a more "traditional" water profile for west coast IPAs. Your results look like they're turning out just fine w/o however!

Who knows, there could be better ways!

My thinking is that the ratio I gave is based on water profile alone and that the end ratio would be different because malts contribute a huge amount of chloride during a mash. I really should get one of my beers lab analyzed...

I wanted to add to this, since I didn't really dig into the question earlier.[/QUOTE]
I wanted to expand on this a little since my answer doesn't really get into the deeper stuff. This article is killer to get into some psuedo science on the topic of mineral contributions from malts;
lab analysis of Heady Topper. (posted earlier in this thread)

I basically go about 3:2 S04/Cl (roughly) as far as my additions. I am counting on my malt to contribute a substantial amount of Cl as shown in the analysis in the thread above. At the end of the day I aim to end up 2:1 at about 150:300 PPM SO4/Cl in my finished beer.

So what you are saying here is aligned with my intentions, my approach to balancing the end water just involves using malt contributions as well. If only I could get my water and every beer lab analyzed I would be nerding out on this stuff so hard.

 

[user 307594]

I wanted to add to this, since I didn't really dig into the question earlier.

I wanted to expand on this a little since my answer doesn't really get into the deeper stuff. This article is killer to get into some psuedo science on the topic of mineral contributions from malts;
lab analysis of Heady Topper. (posted earlier in this thread)

I basically go about 3:2 S04/Cl (roughly) as far as my additions. I am counting on my malt to contribute a substantial amount of Cl as shown in the analysis in the thread above. At the end of the day I aim to end up 2:1 at about 150:300 PPM SO4/Cl in my finished beer.

So what you are saying here is aligned with my intentions, my approach to balancing the end water just involves using malt contributions as well. If only I could get my water and every beer lab analyzed I would be nerding out on this stuff so hard.[/QUOTE]

I just realized your hop bill is the same as our house IPA, although I use equal proportions of Amarillo, citra, and mosaic.

 

[GuzzleMcBrew]

I wanted to add to this, since I didn't really dig into the question earlier.
I wanted to expand on this a little since my answer doesn't really get into the deeper stuff. This article is killer to get into some psuedo science on the topic of mineral contributions from malts;
lab analysis of Heady Topper. (posted earlier in this thread)

I basically go about 3:2 S04/Cl (roughly) as far as my additions. I am counting on my malt to contribute a substantial amount of Cl as shown in the analysis in the thread above. At the end of the day I aim to end up 2:1 at about 600-700:300-350 PPM SO4/Cl in my finished beer, but a lot of that Cl should be coming from the malts.

So what you are saying here is aligned with my intentions, my approach to balancing the end water just involves using malt contributions as well. If only I could get my water and every beer lab analyzed I would be nerding out on this stuff so hard.

I messed this post up yet again. Fixed for me.

I just realized your hop bill is the same as our house IPA, although I use equal proportions of Amarillo, citra, and mosaic.

I liked that hop bill a lot, I will use it again. Right now I am really Citra x Nelson.

 

[More Betterness]

NE Pale Ale is effing delicious! Best aroma I've had in a hoppy beer!

 

[Vogt52]

NE Pale Ale is effing delicious! Best aroma I've had in a hoppy beer!

What hops did you use?

 

[FTowne1]

NE Pale Ale is effing delicious! Best aroma I've had in a hoppy beer!

Not murky/sludgy enough.


Reported.

 

[More Betterness]

What hops did you use?

Equal parts Simcoe/Citra/Mosaic at every addition.

Not murky/sludgy enough.


Reported.

Hahaha every time I use Vermont Ale it actually "clears" up a bit more compared to 1318.

 

[andrewdrinks]

Hell yeah, Andrew! Rad. What hops did you use?

Next time you are heading to VT hit me up and maybe we can share a beer at HF again. I will bring some homebrews .

Bittered with Simcoe, late hop and whirlpool with equal parts 2015 Mosaic and new harvest Nelson Sauvin. Dry hopped with equal parts Mosaic and Nelson too.

Next time I come I'll pack some bottles! This was all kegged - played a bit fast and loose with it, kegged on a Monday, the high-pressure/agitate method, served on Saturday - but it's definitely being brewed again. It's a great jump off point for brewing soft, juicy IPA.

 

[koplamp]

Hey guys,

First attempt at brewing beer was a NE IPA, dryhopped it today. Plan on kegging some too. If you dryhop with a decent amount of hops, would it be recommended to dryhop a second time in the keg?

Murky pics incoming!

Cheers!

 

[WesM631]

Hey guys,

First attempt at brewing beer was a NE IPA, dryhopped it today. Plan on kegging some too. If you dryhop with a decent amount of hops, would it be recommended to dryhop a second time in the keg?

Murky pics incoming!

Cheers!

A lot of people do.

I used 1272 on this last batch. Loral seems to be fairly lemon-lime in large quantities.

 

[into the white]

So this may warrant a very RDWHAHB response for a first post, but I've got a couple questions here. About a week and a half ago I brewed a 3.5 gallon batch and am finishing putting together my kegging setup this afternoon. Aiming to get the beer in the keg via closed transfer in the next couple days and hopefully have it ready to serve by next weekend. It's my third all grain batch so I'm definitely a beginner, but I used distilled and treated it, fermented under temperature control, and in general was more careful this time than my first attempts, so so far I think it's on track to be good.

I used the following hop schedule:

60 min: .25 oz Warrior
5 min: .5 oz Columbus
Flameout/Hop steep for 20 min: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo
Dry hop at high krausen: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo

So, 1 - do I have enough hops in there yet? Ideally it'd be in the Zombie Dust/Fort Point Pale Ale ballpark rather than "DDH" ballpark.

2 - if not, am I more at risk of oxidation opening the lid to dry hop more now, or in keg hopping (which would make it so I can't water/starsan purge the keg before transfer)? Fwiw it's in a 5 gallon big mouth bubbler so there's nearly 2 gallons of headspace right now - I'm assuming this makes opening the lid a little/lot worse than it would be if I were full.

3 - Do I need to cold crash at some point and am I better off doing that now or when it's in the keg?

Last thing, I'm going to have to open the lid anyways at some point to set up the closed transfer, as I just got the dual port lid in the mail yesterday. I figure that's less of a big deal if I'm transferring right after the exchange, rather than today when it'd be sitting in the fermenter for at least another 48 hours after.

 

[Ziggy]

So this may warrant a very RDWHAHB response for a first post, but I've got a couple questions here. About a week and a half ago I brewed a 3.5 gallon batch and am finishing putting together my kegging setup this afternoon. Aiming to get the beer in the keg via closed transfer in the next couple days and hopefully have it ready to serve by next weekend. It's my third all grain batch so I'm definitely a beginner, but I used distilled and treated it, fermented under temperature control, and in general was more careful this time than my first attempts, so so far I think it's on track to be good.

I used the following hop schedule:

60 min: .25 oz Warrior
5 min: .5 oz Columbus
Flameout/Hop steep for 20 min: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo
Dry hop at high krausen: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo

So, 1 - do I have enough hops in there yet? Ideally it'd be in the Zombie Dust/Fort Point Pale Ale ballpark rather than "DDH" ballpark.

2 - if not, am I more at risk of oxidation opening the lid to dry hop more now, or in keg hopping (which would make it so I can't water/starsan purge the keg before transfer)? Fwiw it's in a 5 gallon big mouth bubbler so there's nearly 2 gallons of headspace right now - I'm assuming this makes opening the lid a little/lot worse than it would be if I were full.

3 - Do I need to cold crash at some point and am I better off doing that now or when it's in the keg?

Last thing, I'm going to have to open the lid anyways at some point to set up the closed transfer, as I just got the dual port lid in the mail yesterday. I figure that's less of a big deal if I'm transferring right after the exchange, rather than today when it'd be sitting in the fermenter for at least another 48 hours after.

Seems like enough hops to me. Only way to really find out, is to keg it and try.

Ive never worried about oxidation from opening the lid on the fermenter. The transfer is where oxidation can happen. If you are doing a closed transfer with co2, then you really have nothing to worry about.

Rdwhahab

 

[reverseapachemaster1]

It's probably enough hops. I would keg and sample once it's carbonated. If you feel like it needs more then open the keg and add more hops.

 

[user 307594]

It's probably enough hops. I would keg and sample once it's carbonated. If you feel like it needs more then open the keg and add more hops.

that's a good way to mentos and diet coke your keg.

 

[reverseapachemaster1]

that's a good way to mentos and diet coke your keg.

Sorry for partying

 

[into the white]

Despite the foam, seems a little undercarbed. Color looks better in real life. This is....not bad at all. Getting a ton of the amarillo, and I think the late Columbus helped a bit it keeping it properly bitter. Looking forward to seeing how it tastes in a couple days when it's properly carbed and less green. This thread was super helpful, definitely pretty confident about making batch 3 in a couple weeks, gonna mess with the grain bill a little and add galaxy and motueka to the hop bill. Really excited to see where I can get this stuff to with a few more attempts.

 

[YungCoolship]

I ended up brewing a 10 gallon batch of NE pale for the 4th of July. I subbed out my go-to base malt of Golden Promise, opting for 2-row. The rest of the bill is white wheat, a very minimal amount of c20 for slight color, flaked oats for head retention, and 1lb of sugar added at flameout. The hop schedule for the 60 minute boil was: 1oz Southern Cross @ 60, 2oz Galaxy @ 5, 3oz Galaxy at flameout, 3oz Galaxy dryhop at first sign of vigorous active fermentation (5 days), 3oz Galaxy dryhop at kegging (5 days then counter pressure transfer into serving keg). The last few batches of IPA I had used the Vermont Ale strain by TYB, but I ended up going with 1318 this time and it confirmed my overall preference for using it for this style. The RO water I brew with was treated with 2:1 gypsum/calcium chloride... the night after brewing this I ended up stumbling on Scott Janish's post about mouthfeel and I wish I would have treated my water inversely, but now I have something fun to test out. Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out; The carbonation level was just how I wanted it, limited bitterness/highly aromatic, and it was crushable. Next time I brew something similar I would add a little bit more c20 and I would like to try it with a higher calcium chloride ratio.