I have pin lock kegs and they all weigh 10.5 lbs +/- 1 oz. Filled to the brim with water they hold, by weight, 5.6 gal.Weigh it. An empty corny keg will weigh in the neighborhood of 10.5 pounds. Full it will about 55 pounds.
I have pin lock kegs and they all weigh 10.5 lbs +/- 1 oz. Filled to the brim with water they hold, by weight, 5.6 gal.Weigh it. An empty corny keg will weigh in the neighborhood of 10.5 pounds. Full it will about 55 pounds.
When I put 5 gallons of beer into an empty keg, the keg contains 5 gallons, according to my calculations. I'm not quite sure how to break it down more than that. That means that a standard corny keg is pretty near full.How do you know? Maybe itll help me out when i do mine.
Agree. When it comes to hoppy beers, if they taste better bottle conditioned, it says more about your oxygen ingress while kegging because the refermentation in the bottle will clean up some of the oxygen that is picked up in the bottling operation itself. If the same amount gets in the kegged beer, that's that.Oxygen murders hoppy beers. To get an IPA in a keg without it self-destructing requires all kinds of diligence...
Cheers!
I would've said this until a move to a one level house eliminated my excellent basement storage zone for beer (and wine). But I have no opinion about quality differences, at least now that I have good oxygen avoidance going in my kegging. And a couple of hefty bottled batches will do okay stored in closets.Kegging just isn't in my future.
This is a nice alternative to spunding. On occasion I've transferred a finished beer into a purged keg with priming sugar in it. Not only do yeast break down some oxidation products, but tank CO2 is usually poorly specced for oxygen content, and there's at least a theoretical problem there.I’m going to throw this out there: just because it’s kegged doesn’t mean that you can’t “bottle condition” your beer.
About the same time that I learned about closed transfers, I also started naturally carbonating my beers in the keg. I use a floating dip tube and don’t have to worry about picking up any yeast.
The combination of closed transfers and “bottle conditioning” my kegs has improved my beer and made things way easier for me over bottling.
But wouldn’t the same apply to conditioning in bottles? When I did bottle, I didn’t chill them immediately, but left them in a closet while they carbonated and conditioned. I only transferred them to my refrigerator a few at a time as they were consumed.The down side is that keg conditioning means you can't immediately chill the keg, which is usually a good idea to maintain freshness.
Closed transfer into a CO2 purged keg is the key here...Oxygen murders hoppy beers. To get an IPA in a keg without it self-destructing requires all kinds of diligence...
Cheers!
My Opinion is some styles this maybe true or closer to what you associate with being ( better) based off of or closer to a commercial example thats was probably bottled conditioned.I've recently started making 12 gallon split batches and bottling a 6 pack of each to save.
I've noticed all anecdotally of course that I'm enjoying the bottle conditioned beers more. I feel the flavor is deeper and richer, the aroma is more prominent and I'm really enjoying them more than off the tap.
Anyone else digging their bottled beers more than off the tap?
My own experience is completely opposite. Kegs are much better than bottles. Having to be careful pouring, and avoiding the little trub stain of blech in each bottle... No thanks. I can also be more consistent with how much to carb each batch in total, as opposed to each bottle having a slightly different carb profile.I've recently started making 12 gallon split batches and bottling a 6 pack of each to save.
I've noticed all anecdotally of course that I'm enjoying the bottle conditioned beers more. I feel the flavor is deeper and richer, the aroma is more prominent and I'm really enjoying them more than off the tap.
Anyone else digging their bottled beers more than off the tap?
^this!^more consistent with how much to carb
But hefty brews are often the ones that benefit most from bottle conditioning (and for a fairly long time at that). My big stouts and Belgians get the cork and cage treatment with bottling yeast (and patience).Super slow or inadequate carbonation (with hefty brews) was one of my biggest frustrations with bottle conditioning.
Draft beer or a bottle? Umm, I know what I prefer and I doubt billions of beer drinkers are wrong in making the came call.
But no worries. You be you. I am getting draft beer.
I was just offering my own beer experience. For me, the biggest upgrade in quality came from moving from bottles to draft. (A keezer with 6 taps). My bottles beers were a joy... But the move to draft was next level. That is been my experience.Billions of beer drinkers?
Kinda passive agressive no? It’s just beer bub.
Draft beer or a bottle? Umm, I know what I prefer and I doubt billions of beer drinkers are wrong in making the came call.
I know what I prefer and I doubt billions of beer drinkers are wrong in making the came call.
Beer sales for off-premises consumption are about 30% higher than beer sales for on-premises consumption (in the US anyway). And some of what is consumed on-premises is bottled or canned. Bottled beer dominates the global market, with close to 50% of sales. And then consider that about 25% of the world's population is under age 14, billions of aduts don't drink alcohol at all and plenty of people who do drink alcohol don't drink beer. So yeah, it might be a a bit of a stretch to get to billions plural choosing draft.Billions of beer drinkers?
I keg all my bitters, I have 3 corny kegs so can only have 3 bitters on the go at any one time. I bottle all other beer types which allow me to have 20ish beers on the go. It horses for courses for me. I found that my bitter from a bottle is not as good as the kegged version, probably due to being over carbonated.
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