I seriously dislike the idea that european beers should be judged by American guidelines. The other way around would also be a disaster if you ask me.
I only know of the CAMRA guidelines, but they are much less detailed. There have been some efforts to consolidate national homebrew clubs' guidelines, but they have not come to fruition yet.Just curious, is there a European version of BJCP?
I think that @Miraculix did some modifications to his mill suggested earlier in the thread. Perhaps they loosened up?I just gotta ask, how does a Corona mill fail? I use one too and that thing is built! I can't even think of a way it could fail under normal use.
Kind of. The screw that pushes against the rotating disc when tightened (it defines the "mill gap")is actually pushing against a metal ball, which is then pushing against the rotating disc. Makes sense, because otherwise the disc would not be rotating anymore if the screw pushes too tight. However, this ball was held in place by a short piece of spring or metal wire, however you would want to call it. This piece got dislocated and was somehow between the rotating disc and the counter part which is not rotating. This caused a lot of friction and my drill was constantly failing because of lack of power. I opened the gap further... two washers instead of one between the thingys that are holding the discs in place... worked but only 30% of the grain got crushed... so back again to one washer, drill fails... man it was a desaster . Then It made a noise and suddenly everything went just through uncrushed. I checked and found that the ball went missing, I found it in the grain. Together with the spring-wire type of thing. Rearragned everything, put the ball back into it's place (without the wire), everything crushed and smooth from then on.I think that @Miraculix did some modifications to his mill suggested earlier in the thread. Perhaps they loosened up?
Kind of. The screw that pushes against the rotating disc when tightened (it defines the "mill gap")is actually pushing against a metal ball, which is then pushing against the rotating disc. Makes sense, because otherwise the disc would not be rotating anymore if the screw pushes too tight. However, this ball was held in place by a short piece of spring or metal wire, however you would want to call it. This piece got dislocated and was somehow between the rotating disc and the counter part which is not rotating. This caused a lot of friction and my drill was constantly failing because of lack of power. I opened the gap further... two washers instead of one between the thingys that are holding the discs in place... worked but only 30% of the grain got crushed... so back again to one washer, drill fails... man it was a desaster . Then It made a noise and suddenly everything went just through uncrushed. I checked and found that the ball went missing, I found it in the grain. Together with the spring-wire type of thing. Rearragned everything, put the ball back into it's place (without the wire), everything crushed and smooth from then on.
Btw. looks like high Kräusen already happened within one day. Two packs of yeast on 16.5 litres are doing their thing quickly.
Thumbs up for my highly technical wording please!
I've brewed summer lightning by accident, turned out great, must be a nice beer!My top 10 favourite UK bitters (includes Golden Ales which is bitter rebranded)
- 5 Points Best
- Summer Lightning
- Timothy Taylor Landlord
- Sussex Bitter
- Jail Ale
- Exmoor Gold
- Tribute
- Otter Ale
- Sea Fury
- Devon Dumpling
Sorry for the resurrection but I've actually never tapped the database and am unclear whether's it's in the recipe section, or another place. I searched for Northern's recipe in the "ales" section of the recipes, and came up empty.I love English beers.... I always have and ordinary bitter or Dark Mild on tap. Two good places to start with ordinary bitters - Northern Brewer's "The Innkeeper" recipe or the "Boddington's Clone" in the Homebrewtalk database.
Good british malts, good yeast..... I have become partial to 1318 or 1469. Also like 1968.
My most recent version is roughly as follows:
90% Maris Otter
2.5% of each of the following -
Carapils
British Crystal 40
British Crystal 120
Wheat
3 additions of EKG - 1 ounce at 60, 45 and 0 (40IBU's).
(I am making about 6 gallons)
Shooting for gravity of around 1.038-1.042
Do not shoot for "burton water".
If you use B'run water - I am targeting water numbers that are basically around this:
Calcium: 75
Sulfate: 125-150
Chloride: 25-35
Bicarbonate:50
Others are all relatively low
Getting Mash pH of 5.2-5.3
I dilute my tap water quite a bit with Reverse Osmosis water (80% or so)
Control ferm temps...... mid-upper 60's beer temps.
Carbonate on the low side.
I believe "The Innkeeper" is a recipe kit at northernbrewer.com. Actually I just checked and they still sell that one. The InnkeeperSorry for the resurrection but I've actually never tapped the database and am unclear whether's it's in the recipe section, or another place. I searched for Northern's recipe in the "ales" section of the recipes, and came up empty.
A lot has transpired over the last several years, medical and associated challenges (mild heart attack, mini-strokes, Grave's disease, the usual) and the upshot is that I've forgotten so much of what I once knew. To be truthful, feels like almost everything. Going back to literal brew school and Northern_Brewer has always been a rock solid guide, to me, and I'd love to find this Innkeeper recipe. Can someone point it out? Many thanks.
Oh, lol, thanks. I'd thought it was a good, basic bitter recipe from member Northern_Brewer here. Cheers for letting me know, Brewskey.I believe "The Innkeeper" is a recipe kit at northernbrewer.com. Actually I just checked and they still sell that one. The Innkeeper
Recipe Database
Inverting the turbinado will give you glucose which helps the yeast grow and produce esters. If you just heat to 245F (with acid) for 20 or 30min you will not get much if any color change.
Thanks good idea. I usually use a #3 in my mild anywayInverting the turbinado will give you glucose which helps the yeast grow and produce esters. If you just heat to 245F (with acid) for 20 or 30min you will not get much if any color change.
Source? My research so far has suggested that the combination of inversion and heating does indeed produce caramelisation. No maillard ist correct, since that needs proteins (amino acids). But caramelisation definitely takes place, since Fructose caramelises at 110°C and we create Fructose by the inversion.he prolonged cooking resulting in partial caramellisation and maillard effects for darkening often present in homebrew lore has no basis in reality.
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