bellhp
Well-Known Member
Yes , this morning I was told , just make your own invert ... it's easy !The rabbit hole is incredibly deep


Keep going guy's I'm soaking it in.
Yes , this morning I was told , just make your own invert ... it's easy !The rabbit hole is incredibly deep
I got the guide for Christmas. It is quite distinct from the other books since it's much more than just his blog posts. Also it has a great layout and you get lots of colours to guide you through the text. Highly recommended.I got them, except the guide to vintage beer.
noooo.... now I need to buy it. What you are describing is what I was missing in his other books... I already got 3 or 4 of them.I got the guide for Christmas. It is quite distinct from the other books since it's much more than just his blog posts. Also it has a great layout and you get lots of colours to guide you through the text. Highly recommended.
I bottle my beer as well, and do it on the dishwasher door so there is no mess.Packaging - just wanted to pass on a tip (possibly).
I’ve been brewing for a pretty long time and started bottle conditioning, went to kegging and even cask beer with an engine. I’m now back to bottle conditioning and will probably be staying there.
I brew 80% British style and 15% Belgian styles - and have always preferred bottle conditioned beers, but the time spent bottling got to be too much.
I’ve finally streamlined it with brewing 2.5 gallons at a time, 22oz bottles, carbonation drops, primary fermentor with spout (I use an SS Brewbucket)
So 2.5 gallons will give me an exact twelve 22oz bottles which is plenty.
Primary for 1.5-2 weeks, sanitize bottles + add 1 carb drop, hook up bottle wand direct to fermenter, bottle then cap. Let sit 2 weeks, right into fridge and drinking.
1 carb drop gives you a really nice low carbonation for British styles. I use 1 in 33cl bottles for my Belgian beers.
I can now bottle in maybe 30 mins and it’s not so much of a chore.
Hope someone might pick up a few tips.![]()
Brett takes care of the little additional co2 anyway, all good!The Imperial Stout is in secondary with about 9g of boiled oak cubes, 12g of Styrian Bobek and 1.5 shot glass of Brett'd stock ale. Guesstimated amount of beer in carboy is ~12L.
I sucked in a bit of air through the airlock when pouring some of the stock ale to inocculate the stout, but for the last 2 weeks it has been relatively lively producing co2 so I am not overly worried about it.
This bad boy is gonna be strong when finished.
Ron just figured out today that apparently it was normal for wooden vats to be lined, not unlined as he thought before Being slow
This is not different from what I said, but thanks for underlining that.A historian has found a loose thread that needs exploring. He hasn't yet overturned his prior understanding.
This is not something he found in the last few days! He had the Truman records for years and had done rough sighting through them a long time ago. He only showed it to his readers recently.In the last few days, he's also found evidence of Truman mixing gyle wort's before and after fermentation!
By the way, the line that puzzled him because he read "is unlined [...] must," is something I read to "is inclined to must", so maybe it is all much ado about nothing. Including my post # 4,269![]()
I had thought all these Truman docs were something he's had for years but never dug into. Maybe I read that wrong.
I had been working my way through their records. My first sweep was every 10 years - 1820, 1830, 1840, etc. Then 1835, 1845, etc. The final sweep - which remains incomplete - was to fill in the remaining years. Starting with the 1880s. It's these years that I'd left untouched.
Reread today's post
By the way, the line that puzzled him because he read "is unlined [...] must," is something I read to "is inclined to must", so maybe it is all much ado about nothing. Including my post # 4,269![]()
Is it worth checking the pH and if so are we aiming for neutral?My proven anti-OCD method:
Add sugar to a pot, add water, dissolve, boil, add a dash of lemon juice, boil for 20 minutes to half an hour, add a dash of baking soda, taste. Sour and/or lemon taste? More baking soda! Tastes like baking soda? Too much, add a bit of lemon juice. Tastes just sweet and neutral caramell-ish? perfect, job done.
There is no need for prolonged heating after neutralisation of the acid.
I know you weren't asking me. But, I don't check the final pH, just taste it and make sure it's not tart tasting. I've been using 88% lactic and baking soda to neutralize at about 1:1. Working good so far. I think I got the baking soda thing here.Is it worth checking the pH and if so are we aiming for neutral?
Check the taste, use your tongueIs it worth checking the pH and if so are we aiming for neutral?
I have zero problems with people doing what suits them - merely expressing my philosophyAnd yet, the strive to uncover what our forbears did (and get as close as possible to recreating it) remains an ever-interesting pursuit.
I have zero problems with people doing what suits them - merely expressing my philosophy
Beauty of homebrewing is you get to do what you want to do.Indeed. I brew and make my invert just as you do, with the same philosophy. But, I also read Shut Up daily.
Fine tune the picture of the ideal, but don't worry too much whether I truly approach it. I brew historically-inspired beers, not historically.
Better than some of the “new” stuff thats been invented - cloudy ipas that look like a glass of orange juice, beers intentionally made sour, or “pastry stouts”. Things like that make me want to look back to the past instead of living in dread of what the next fad/obsession is going to be. I’ll take a well made pre-prohibition lager over the “best” NEIPA or any sour beer any day.And yet, the strive to uncover what our forbears did (and get as close as possible to recreating it) remains an ever-interesting pursuit.