cranium213
Active Member
Both my fermentation fridge and keezer are working great after nearly a year...although i am still thinking I should order 2 more units in case one or both do eventually fail.
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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I can not get my controller wired up properly. I'm just trying to get it to cool only for my keezer so I was going to wire it per the instructions. I have power to the controller and the probe is working. For some reason I can not figure out how to get power to my outlet. Any ideas from anyone?
Have you waited for the compressor delay period (factory set at 3 mins) to finish?
And just to be sure, you are running a hot line to one of the controller "cool" terminals then from the other "cool" terminal to the hot on the outlet socket? neutral and ground just go straight to the outlet socket in the normal places.
used this controller in my fermentation cabinet build
it works great
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-new-fermentation-cabinet-310521/
it works great
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-new-fermentation-cabinet-310521/
Very Nice!!!!!!
I finished my Sou Vide controller build this weekend. I first had it wired wrong. Pretty standard for me though. Got in a hurry and wasn't thinking.
At any rate, I plan on using that controller for my ferm chamber, but my sous vide test had it holding a crock pot at 135F all day long Never off more than 1 degree in either direction.
I planned on swapping a Love controller into that box but it turns out the box is not deep enough for it, so I might have to find another box. I really like the look of having the STC-1000 mounted right in the fridge.
At any rate, I plan on using that controller for my ferm chamber, but my sous vide test had it holding a crock pot at 135F all day long Never off more than 1 degree in either direction.
I planned on swapping a Love controller into that box but it turns out the box is not deep enough for it, so I might have to find another box. I really like the look of having the STC-1000 mounted right in the fridge.
LWayBrewing
Member
I'm no electrician by any means, but I'm curious about whether or not these controllers need a to be grounded. Does anybody know?
Obviously, they don't have a ground, but would it be a smart idea to ground it?
Obviously, they don't have a ground, but would it be a smart idea to ground it?
arkham_razors
Well-Known Member
LWayBrewing said:
It would be a good idea to ground whatever enclosure you use for these contollers. These contollers are meant to be installed as one part of a power switching system, and are not really a stand-alone device, like the Johnson controllers.
Got mine put together tonight. Looked good and turned the fridge on no problem, but... it never turned off. I went out there to check on it and it was at 14* and I had it set for 18*. It's too late to mess with it now so I just turned it off.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
Did you break off the metal tab on the outlet?
timdsmith72
Well-Known Member
Once you set the temp, you have to "save" the setting.. Otherwise, it'll revert back to the default. Which is 10 degrees... I think?
timdsmith72
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Glad you figured it out.
Is that the little piece on the side that connects the 2 screws? Both sides?
yes the little tab that connects between the screws
ONLY remove the tab on the HOT / Black Side
American Wiring, will be different if you live outside US
this is pretty standard to most out lets that you can but in Lowes / home depot
Black wire (HOT/ LIVE) wire connect to gold darker screws
White wire (Neutral) wires connect to silver lighter screws
Green or Bare Copper wire (Ground / Earth) connects to green screw
I ended up getting two jacks. One single jack (they sell those - they're about $2) for the hot side and one double for the cooling side. I figure I might want to wire up a fan and my keezer at the same time.
I may also add a jack inside for straight power - I'm planning on mounting this inside the collar - right now it's exposed wiring (except for some electrical tape), but it works fine.
I may also add a jack inside for straight power - I'm planning on mounting this inside the collar - right now it's exposed wiring (except for some electrical tape), but it works fine.
I've seen other charts, but I had to make my own.
This ranges from 0 to 224°F in a Google Docs spreadsheet. I also included a (very) quick ref for the controller. These could be easily cut apart from each other to paste separately (Wives who scrapbook make this look pretty nice).
http://goo.gl/bH09S
Choose "No Gridlines" when printing.
This ranges from 0 to 224°F in a Google Docs spreadsheet. I also included a (very) quick ref for the controller. These could be easily cut apart from each other to paste separately (Wives who scrapbook make this look pretty nice).
http://goo.gl/bH09S
Choose "No Gridlines" when printing.
rstump
Member
Mine just took12 days to Central Missouri.
Purchased on 12 March, delivered yesterday via snail mail.
e-bay tracking info leads one to believe the pkg was in Los Angeles on the 19th.
Must wait till I'm in town on Tuesday to pick up a project box,
Some Fun now, hay....
Just got mine. Took 2weeks to get here. Its wired up but im going to add a computer fan to it. We need the wiring diagrams added to a sticky in the first link. Its a pain trying to go through all these posts to find them.
A wiring diagram is on the first post...
Unless there's a better one somewhere I haven't read to yet??
janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
This is the one I drew up.
Double-R
Well-Known Member
This is the one I drew up.
Which side, "Tab" are you breaking.
To have one side for cool and other for heat
From His drawing above
Grey is Neutral
Black is Hot
Green is Earth / Ground
and the Blue is switched Hot from the STC-1000
you would have to break the tabs on the hot side shown in blue
which are the Gold /Hot screws on the outlet.
janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
From His drawing above
Grey is Neutral
Black is Hot
Green is Earth / Ground
and the Blue is switched Hot from the STC-1000
you would have to break the tabs on the hot side shown in blue
which are the Gold /Hot screws on the outlet.
What he said.
Theres a second diagram that shows how to wire in a fan buried around pages 30ish also. But I realized if I used an outlet splitter I can just plug it into that. Only using the cool side so I don't need to worry about the heat.
Running the fan continuously works better to reduce stratification, overshoot, and hot faucet syndrome than only running it when heating/cooling is active. If for some reason you only want the fan to run when heating/cooling is active, using 2 separate fans is a simpler and cheaper solution than wiring up a relay.
If you are only using the cold side. you could just not run the switched hot wire for the heat.
This means you would not have to cut out the tab between outlets and both would be usable for cooling.
beerhound
Active Member
Ordered the unit and talked SWMBO out of our 13 c.f. freezer in the garage. (that last batch in the spare bedroom is the culprit I'm sure ).
Thanks to all who posted for all of the useful information!
). Thanks to all who posted for all of the useful information!
