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- Jan 3, 2020
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Decided it was time to rewire my brew panel and make some updates. The original design is a Skril panel with two Inkbird ITC-106 PIDs and an Auber DSPR1 power controller for the BK for a three vessel two pump EHERMS. It had all the components installed when I bought it but needed to be wired. I had a lot of wire available from rewiring my house so I used a lot of that, which was not a good idea as it was solid copper wire. I had a lot of difficulty crimping on connectors and even tried adding solder but my soldering iron was weak and my crimper of dubious quality. I bought a much nicer crimper in the interim. Before this update it looked like this.
I also decided to swap in two Auber DSPR-320s, one for the HLT and one for the BK. I kept the Inkbird on the MT but moved it to the middle of the row. I switched out the HLT-BK selector with a lighted selector. The wort pump lighted push switch was changed to 3 position selector (NO , NC, NO). Operationally, one position is ON when programmed by the HLT or the BK EZ-Boil, middle is OFF, and the other position is ON without programming. Four Auber R30A (120V coil) relays were also added to be run off the EZBoil as pump relays. I added in a third 120V outlet and a third temperature probe for the BK. I also added a ground bus instead of having everything under the ground screw. Added strain relief to the main power cord.
The HLT EZBoil runs the water pump and the wort pump using one relay on the 1&2 pins and the second relay on 11&12 pins. The BK EZBoil runs the wort pump and cooler pump (perpetual chiller). I the wort pump relay again on the 11&12 pins and the chiller relay on pins 1 & 2. The wort pump is therefore on Alarm Relay 2 for both EZBoils when the relay programming is considered. I forgot that useful initial replication when I first tested the programming but now it’s sticking!
The HLT EZBoil is nice in that it automates step mashing and ramping up to mash out and sparging temp. What I am really looking forward to is using the BK EZBoil for whirlpooling. I will be able to have the cooling pump connected, drop the temperature down to whirlpool temperature, and then hold at whirlpool temperature without needing to monitor the power and temperature.
Here’s the updated panel:
Although not gorgeous, it’s a much better wiring job with more effort attempted to route the wires. Another 98 updates and maybe it will look like it came off an assembly line.
Important Considerations-The box called for in this build fits everything I added but a bigger box would make life easier. I properly noted that the EZBoils were deeper and left space for them. However, I did not think ahead enough for the four relays and needed to turn them to fit wiring runs and the original alarm selector. The bigger size boxes that are typical with other full sized panels would be a better choice in my opinion vs the size suggested in the original plans for this panel.
A second space consideration was that since I was using braided wire, everything had connectors. In my first go around, I gave up on crimping connectors and soldering as the wire was solid. With the addition of all the connectors, many with heat shrink insulation, the connectors on edge components ended up bumping the lip of the main box and made closing the box nearly impossible. I liked the cleaner look of the heat shrink connectors I bought but perhaps unnecessary. The other crimp connectors I also used have insulation and were in general shorter. I ended up swapping in some non-heat shrink connectors, rerunning a few wires, and judiciously using zip ties to pull wires away from the edges.
Test programs were run and the pumps are working as they should. I will add some programs as I write them for upcoming brews.
I also decided to swap in two Auber DSPR-320s, one for the HLT and one for the BK. I kept the Inkbird on the MT but moved it to the middle of the row. I switched out the HLT-BK selector with a lighted selector. The wort pump lighted push switch was changed to 3 position selector (NO , NC, NO). Operationally, one position is ON when programmed by the HLT or the BK EZ-Boil, middle is OFF, and the other position is ON without programming. Four Auber R30A (120V coil) relays were also added to be run off the EZBoil as pump relays. I added in a third 120V outlet and a third temperature probe for the BK. I also added a ground bus instead of having everything under the ground screw. Added strain relief to the main power cord.
The HLT EZBoil runs the water pump and the wort pump using one relay on the 1&2 pins and the second relay on 11&12 pins. The BK EZBoil runs the wort pump and cooler pump (perpetual chiller). I the wort pump relay again on the 11&12 pins and the chiller relay on pins 1 & 2. The wort pump is therefore on Alarm Relay 2 for both EZBoils when the relay programming is considered. I forgot that useful initial replication when I first tested the programming but now it’s sticking!
The HLT EZBoil is nice in that it automates step mashing and ramping up to mash out and sparging temp. What I am really looking forward to is using the BK EZBoil for whirlpooling. I will be able to have the cooling pump connected, drop the temperature down to whirlpool temperature, and then hold at whirlpool temperature without needing to monitor the power and temperature.
Here’s the updated panel:
Although not gorgeous, it’s a much better wiring job with more effort attempted to route the wires. Another 98 updates and maybe it will look like it came off an assembly line.
Important Considerations-The box called for in this build fits everything I added but a bigger box would make life easier. I properly noted that the EZBoils were deeper and left space for them. However, I did not think ahead enough for the four relays and needed to turn them to fit wiring runs and the original alarm selector. The bigger size boxes that are typical with other full sized panels would be a better choice in my opinion vs the size suggested in the original plans for this panel.
A second space consideration was that since I was using braided wire, everything had connectors. In my first go around, I gave up on crimping connectors and soldering as the wire was solid. With the addition of all the connectors, many with heat shrink insulation, the connectors on edge components ended up bumping the lip of the main box and made closing the box nearly impossible. I liked the cleaner look of the heat shrink connectors I bought but perhaps unnecessary. The other crimp connectors I also used have insulation and were in general shorter. I ended up swapping in some non-heat shrink connectors, rerunning a few wires, and judiciously using zip ties to pull wires away from the edges.
Test programs were run and the pumps are working as they should. I will add some programs as I write them for upcoming brews.
