• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

ebay aquarium temp controller build

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Also, check out reptilebasics.com That is where I got my heat tape. It was just a little cheaper there than the bean farm place.

Ok soooo I really liked that reptile basics site, they will wire up your heat tape and everything, very cheap..... 5ft of 4" heat tape wired up for aorund $14, not bad.

WTF shipping here to alaska is 28 bucks... looks like this is not an option.
What ever happened to flat rate boxes.
 
Ok soooo I really liked that reptile basics site, they will wire up your heat tape and everything, very cheap..... 5ft of 4" heat tape wired up for aorund $14, not bad.

WTF shipping here to alaska is 28 bucks... looks like this is not an option.
What ever happened to flat rate boxes.
Maybe ask them if they can ship USPS instead, as long as your order is small (volume wise).
I have a dead mini fridge so cooling is not going to be hooked up at the moment.

Also, just because you are in AK doesn't mean you can close up a fermenter inside an insulated box, and expect not to need cooling. People in cold regions sometimes have it tougher than people in the deep south where the only concern, ever, is cooling (at least for single vessel/chamber systems). When ambient temps are in the 20-??F (insert max ferm temp here) range, things get funny. When fermenting in a fridge/freezer, you have a heat source trapped inside an insulated box, at least until it stops producing heat. Therein lies the rub.

In dealing with this problem myself, and not wanting to code and/or rig up or rely on an arduino, brewtroller, bcs, some hombebaked rig, etc.; I plan on wiring up a set of SS relays (one for every controller/fermenter) which will feed the control input of another relay (to switch the coolingfridge). My goal is to allow having multiple fermenters in one chest freezer without having to set the temp to some arbitrarily low number to guarantee a max temp for the most active ferm. The cooling will only come on when any one of the fermenters needs it. This approach is very similar to the method of using a a dual input relay so only one fan is needed for either heat or cool using (although IMO there is no reason not to run a fan full time in either a kegerator or (especially) in a fermenter).

The price of discrete low current SSRs is cheap enough to not bother searching for some esoteric x number input IC relay available at radio shack. Just wire up a bunch of low amp discrete relays to the control input of one capable of handling the fridge/freezer current. That is the magic that would be happening inside a similar IC anyway.
 
Yea I emailed reptile basics shortly after my post and asked about shipping.
Got it in a flat rate usps box the next day and now my flexwatt tape is on it way.

Awesome customer service with those guys.


Anyways, I plan on having a fan running in my dead mini fridge and maybe put some frozen bottles in there as well just to keep the ambient temp on the downtrend. The flexwatt will take it over once it dips.
 
Maybe ask them if they can ship USPS instead, as long as your order is small (volume wise).


Also, just because you are in AK doesn't mean you can close up a fermenter inside an insulated box, and expect not to need cooling. People in cold regions sometimes have it tougher than people in the deep south where the only concern, ever, is cooling (at least for single vessel/chamber systems). When ambient temps are in the 20-??F (insert max ferm temp here) range, things get funny. When fermenting in a fridge/freezer, you have a heat source trapped inside an insulated box, at least until it stops producing heat. Therein lies the rub.

In dealing with this problem myself, and not wanting to code and/or rig up or rely on an arduino, brewtroller, bcs, some hombebaked rig, etc.; I plan on wiring up a set of SS relays (one for every controller/fermenter) which will feed the control input of another relay (to switch the coolingfridge). My goal is to allow having multiple fermenters in one chest freezer without having to set the temp to some arbitrarily low number to guarantee a max temp for the most active ferm. The cooling will only come on when any one of the fermenters needs it. This approach is very similar to the method of using a a dual input relay so only one fan is needed for either heat or cool using (although IMO there is no reason not to run a fan full time in either a kegerator or (especially) in a fermenter).

The price of discrete low current SSRs is cheap enough to not bother searching for some esoteric x number input IC relay available at radio shack. Just wire up a bunch of low amp discrete relays to the control input of one capable of handling the fridge/freezer current. That is the magic that would be happening inside a similar IC anyway.

Your post is hard to understand without a diagram, but it sounds like you are basically going to wire the freezer to be on whenever none of the fermenter heaters is heating. Without additional logic that is going to be inefficient because it will result in the freezer kicking on when there is really no need. You are going to pay to heat and then pay to cool.
 
I have read some (but not all) of this thread. Thought it'd be better to just ask in case others are wondering as well. I am looking for a temperature controller for a keezer, do I need something like the stc-1000 or is there something simpler? What is the best option cost-wise? I am just looking to control when the cooling mechanism kicks in.
 
weeple2000 said:
I have read some (but not all) of this thread. Thought it'd be better to just ask in case others are wondering as well. I am looking for a temperature controller for a keezer, do I need something like the stc-1000 or is there something simpler? What is the best option cost-wise? I am just looking to control when the cooling mechanism kicks in.

This is about as good and cost efficient as it gets. There are single phase that read in F as well. You don't need to heat a keezer.
 
I have read some (but not all) of this thread. Thought it'd be better to just ask in case others are wondering as well. I am looking for a temperature controller for a keezer, do I need something like the stc-1000 or is there something simpler? What is the best option cost-wise? I am just looking to control when the cooling mechanism kicks in.

I used a Johnson controller to run my lagering fridge. When I decided I needed a controller to keep fermenters warm, I came across the STC1000 on Ebay for half the cost of the Johnson. Initially, I just wired it into an extension cord. Materials were a 6'-8' cord and a couple wire nuts.
Since then, I've seen this thread and built it into a box with a split receptacle for heating and cooling capabilities. Besides being cleaner looking, it also looks more impressive when friends are over.
If you're looking for simple, you can get controllers already built, you just have to pay for it.
 
Your post is hard to understand without a diagram, but it sounds like you are basically going to wire the freezer to be on whenever none of the fermenter heaters is heating. Without additional logic that is going to be inefficient because it will result in the freezer kicking on when there is really no need. You are going to pay to heat and then pay to cool.
If you read my post carefully, I proposed my method specifically to avoid cooling when no fermenter needs it. Think about the problem being solved along with my description, and it should make sense. The freezer will only come on when any one of the fermenting vessels needs it. These are dual stage controllers, so they can call for heating or cooling.

One additional thing I thought of is the need for a compressor delay timer for the final stage that powers the fridge/freezer. I will probably just use an additional STC-1000. The ASD is triggered automatically on power up, so it should work (although the delay will always be in effect, but no big deal) This way I don't have to read the specs for a hundred different ebay listings for timers to make sure they will work. I am not sure how long settings are retained when not powered, but think it is at least a week.

You don't even need the relay scheme for a dedicated setup. All of the cooling outputs (from a single house circuit only) can be hard wired to one outlet; however, you would lose any independent use of the controllers for all but heating only applications. You would still need the additional ASD timer.
 
I am just looking to control when the cooling mechanism kicks in.
You don't need to heat a keezer.
There are many situations where a keezer needs to be heated, the most common being when it is kept in the garage in the winter.

The STC-1000 is now down to $20 shipped, last time I ordered anyway. So, I just spring for the extra $3 for dual stage so I can use it to control a fermenter, or even turn my keezer into one, as well. In their defense, the single stage units do have a programmable/audible over/under temperature alarm which can come in handy for things like mashing. That feature can be supplied by a cheap stand-alone device (even with separate power for an unattended setting like fermenting), whereas dual-stage functionality cannot be replicated (easily) by adding another controller.
 
Over 300 posts is a long read so I am just going to ask this question and hope for an answer... Has anyone extended the length of the sensor that came with this termometer. The supplied wire is too short to make it into my keezer from where I would like the controller mounted.
 
Over 300 posts is a long read so I am just going to ask this question and hope for an answer... Has anyone extended the length of the sensor that came with this termometer. The supplied wire is too short to make it into my keezer from where I would like the controller mounted.

Yes. Depending on the length, type of wire, and how solid your connections are, you might need to adjust the calibration. Several people have used 1/8" headphone jacks to connect the sensor wire with the controller.
 
Just passing this along. This PDF really helped me in my build. The parts #s are all good as well.

http://nordeastbrewersalliance.file...age_temp_controller_creation_instructions.pdf

I used that pdf as my guide, built it up today, worked first time I plugged it in! Modified the plans by getting the 25' 14 GA extension cord (my beer chamber will likely be in the garage or unfinished portion of the basement, both of which have limited plugs), took the power cord first to an 'always on' outlet for circulation fans, work light (for illumination, not heating), etc., and put in a 15A fuse prior to the controller.

In the spirit of paying forward my good luck with finding a steal on Craigslist for my new-to-me kegging equipment, I offer up the following stuff for this project that was packaged as 'twofers' from Radio Shack:

1 red neon light
1 green neon light
1 fuse holder
2 15A ceramic fuses

First to PM me an address gets a goodie bag via USPS 1st class mail!

Edit: Congrats to lhommedieu, first to reply! No more callers, please!
 
cwi said:
There are many situations where a keezer needs to be heated, the most common being when it is kept in the garage in the winter.

The STC-1000 is now down to $20 shipped, last time I ordered anyway. So, I just spring for the extra $3 for dual stage so I can use it to control a fermenter, or even turn my keezer into one, as well. In their defense, the single stage units do have a programmable/audible over/under temperature alarm which can come in handy for things like mashing. That feature can be supplied by a cheap stand-alone device (even with separate power for an unattended setting like fermenting), whereas dual-stage functionality cannot be replicated (easily) by adding another controller.

I guess being a Central Cali boy I don't understand the concepts of the garage getting too cold for beer.

I'm intrigued by your comment about using it for mash control. I was unaware that it had the audible alarms. Are you saying you can control a mash heater of some sort with it? I thought the general consensus was that a PID was needed because it controls with tighter parameters?

I ask because I'm getting ready to put an heating element under a false bottom in my mash tun and recirculate. This would be way cheaper and easier to rig up than a PID for me.
 
Yes. Depending on the length, type of wire, and how solid your connections are, you might need to adjust the calibration. Several people have used 1/8" headphone jacks to connect the sensor wire with the controller.

I'm a little leery of the wires connected to the sensor as they seem almost too small for the controller. How would you connect the sensor to 1/8" headphone jacks?
 
I'm a little leery of the wires connected to the sensor as they seem almost too small for the controller. How would you connect the sensor to 1/8" headphone jacks?

Buy panel mount headphone jack and plug, solder the probe wires to the plug, solder some short wires to the jack connecting the other ends to the controller, drill a hole in the enclosure and install the jack.

pRS1C-2265992w345.jpg

pRS1C-2266810w345.jpg
 
I'm intrigued by your comment about using it for mash control. I was unaware that it had the audible alarms.
Only the single stage version has the audible alarm. There are other dual stage controllers with actual alarm outputs for not much more money. There are also simple add on temp monitors with alarms, although that would require another probe.

Are you saying you can control a mash heater of some sort with it? I thought the general consensus was that a PID was needed because it controls with tighter parameters?
Quit putting words in my mouth!
In case you didn't notice, I recommend buying the dual stage for their versatility. In previous posts I recommend PIDs for anything heat related, again because of their versatility. As you stated, yes, the general consensus is to use a 'PID' for heating elements. Although, it has more to do with the ability of most PIDs to vary/limit the power using PWM and SSR relays than the theoretical tighter control. The fancy PID control functionality is over-hyped for most brewing applications, and unless you get the tuning just right, is actually worse than a simple on/off controller . Even used for RIMS, it doesn't behave much differently than an on/off controller.

I ask because I'm getting ready to put an heating element under a false bottom in my mash tun and recirculate.
I believe most people using these (correctly) as mash controllers are using them for a HERMS rig. On/off control (at full power) is generally not suitable direct heat input to the mash. A lot of folks think any direct heat input, even a PID'd RIMS with an ULWD element, is unsuitable for the mash. The liquid is where mashing occurs, more so than the grain bed, and with direct/RIMS there is localized heating well above the mash temp, especially when ramping.

If you are going to recirc/pump anyway, check out HERMS. A separate small cheap kettle for the HERMS bath can easily be controlled using almost any type of controller. Trying to use the HLT as the HERMS bath just complicates matters, a dedicated one is simpler and better. You would need to agitate the bath somehow. What can serve double duty is an immersion chiller as the HERMS coil. The stainless ones are the same price or cheaper than a copper IC, and conduct heat as good or better (much thinner walled tubing). Some use the HERMS bath filled with ice water as a chiller, but that requires a lot of extra ice and pumping, especially if you wouldn't need ice otherwise. There are better solutions if you do need an ice assist.

This would be way cheaper and easier to rig up than a PID for me.
And now you have hit on the main reason someone would use one of these controllers for a heating element. For an HLT or HERMS bath, they will work fine, but should be used with an additional SSR so you don't fry the built in relay. The lifespan of relays declines exponentially as you increase the current.
I don't see the 'way cheaper' part, though. Doesn't Auber have a suitable PID for ~$35 and an SSR for ~$10 (or less if you just match the capacity of the ebay controller)?
As for 'way easier', the rigging is virtually identical for both. Maybe a bit more time to RTFM so you understand how the PID controller works.
 
I believe most people using these (correctly) as mash controllers are using them for a HERMS rig. On/off control (at full power) is generally not suitable direct heat input to the mash.

Yep, I have two of them controlling my gas fired HERMS, where on/off control works fine. I've also run it as a direct fired RIMS and it worked great with the MLT burner dialed down a bit.

Trying to use the HLT as the HERMS bath just complicates matters, a dedicated one is simpler and better.

IMO that depends on your process and how you set your system up. For me using the HLT as the HEX bath makes things much simpler and easier. I understand that it has some limitations and a separate HEX bath would make more sense for a lot of systems, but I don't agree that it's simpler/better in general.
 
Yep, I have two of them controlling my gas fired HERMS, where on/off control works fine. I've also run it as a direct fired RIMS and it worked great with the MLT burner dialed down a bit.
I have tried the direct fired recirc MLT, but it still seemed like there was some localized heating from the heated kettle bottom, even with a clad one.

IMO that depends on your process and how you set your system up. For me using the HLT as the HEX bath makes things much simpler and easier. I understand that it has some limitations and a separate HEX bath would make more sense for a lot of systems, but I don't agree that it's simpler/better in general.
The only benefit I see of using the HLT as a HERMS bath is less equipment by one smallish pot, which I mentioned. There is no advantage to the volume of a typical HLT for a HERMS, and it is actually a hindrance when trying to ramp temps. There is also the additional juggling required when switching from dough-in to HERMS and mash-out to sparge. That is my basis for calling it simpler and better, process wise anyway, and I would be surprised if any part of the process was simpler/better using the HLT as the HERMS bath. While equipment wise it does mean another pot in the mix, it is a similar argument as to whether a swiss army knife or a box of equivalent tools is better/simpler.

The next project I am hording parts for is a HERMS type coil directly in the mash for full volume mashes (BIAB). I don't think I am the first, but I also don't think it has a name yet- hopefully someone comes up with (very) unPC acronym for it. My main reasons are to reduce complexity, and minimize the time the product spends in the 3500 rpm blender most people call a pump- typically ~2 hours (including chilling) for HERMS/RIMS guys.
 
The only benefit I see of using the HLT as a HERMS bath is less equipment by one smallish pot, which I mentioned.

And one less temp controller, and one less heat source..... Either that or a more complicated process with moving pots of hot water around and/or controlling the HLT manually.

There is no advantage to the volume of a typical HLT for a HERMS, and it is actually a hindrance when trying to ramp temps.

It does make ramping temps much slower, but the larger thermal mass makes it easier to hold a steady temp, especially when using a simple on/off controller rather than a PID. I rarely do step mashes, and my HLT burner is powerful enough that ramping temps isn't painfully slow when I do.

There is also the additional juggling required when switching from dough-in to HERMS and mash-out to sparge.

Like I said, it depends on your process. I don't do much juggling at all. To switch from dough-in to HERMS I simply add cold water. I batch sparge, and IMO there's no reason to mash out when batch sparging, so no temp juggling there. I fire the HLT burner up as soon as the MLT starts draining, and by the time the first runnings are transferred, the water is up to sparge temp. It's a very simple, fast, and easy process.

I'm not trying to convince anyone that a single vessel is the best way to do things, I just don't see how adding a second vessel would be an improvement for my particular system. I'd actually like to make some changes that allow me to reduce my rig from a 3 vessel to a 2 vessel. I may be moving out of state soon, in which case I'd likely sell my current set-up and build a single vessel system.

The next project I am hording parts for is a HERMS type coil directly in the mash for full volume mashes (BIAB). I don't think I am the first, but I also don't think it has a name yet- hopefully someone comes up with (very) unPC acronym for it. My main reasons are to reduce complexity, and minimize the time the product spends in the 3500 rpm blender most people call a pump- typically ~2 hours (including chilling) for HERMS/RIMS guys.

My HEX coil is mounted to the underside of a lid that fits all of my kettles, allowing me to use it in many different configurations. I tried the method you're describing, but found there was too much temp variance between the areas close to the coil and further away. I think it would have worked better with a stir motor, or if my MLT were better insulated so that the HEX was only providing minimal amounts of heat. I've added a lot of insulation to my MLT since then, and might try it again.

I also like to reduce the time the wort spends being pumped. Since adding the insulation I've started leaving the pump off for the first ~30min of the mash. I'm familiar enough with my system that I can hit my temps without the aid of the HERMS, and I don't notice any difference in wort clarity between an hour of re-circulation and 15 min of re-circulation.
 
Although, it has more to do with the ability of most PIDs to vary/limit the power using PWM and SSR relays than the theoretical tighter control. The fancy PID control functionality is over-hyped for most brewing applications, and unless you get the tuning just right, is actually worse than a simple on/off controller . Even used for RIMS, it doesn't behave much differently than an on/off controller.

QFT. In many or most brewing applications, actual PID control is either pointless or meaningless. I think a lot of people use the term PID to refer to temp controllers in general and it is kind of annoying.
 
I'm not trying to convince anyone that a single vessel is the best way to do things, I just don't see how adding a second vessel would be an improvement for my particular system.
And I am not saying the downsides of repurposing the HLT are all that great, but if you have the storage space and few extra bucks, it can make your brewday a bit less chaotic, especially when going solo. Although, there are entire processes that can be eliminated to make things easier and less gear intensive with very few or no drawbacks. BIAB is one way I have been trying out, although it does increase the size of the vessel required unless you do some workarounds.

And one less temp controller, and one less heat source..... Either that or a more complicated process with moving pots of hot water around and/or controlling the HLT manually.
I meant one more complete pot setup, along with the additional storage required being the main, if not the only, benefit of reusing the HLT instead. If power is available, a cheap 110V heater element makes for a compact HERMS pot.

It does make ramping temps much slower, but the larger thermal mass makes it easier to hold a steady temp, especially when using a simple on/off controller rather than a PID.
I expect that a HERMS volume 1/4 the size of the HLT is more than enough buffering/damping for even a simple controller, and as has been commented recently- true PID control is all but useless for this type of system. When I used to do HERMS (combining gear with a friend), I think I used one ~1/3 of the HLT volume, and it was more than enough, even when doing it manually without the controller. I relocated temporarily, and have been reduced to using direct fire BIAB. The BIAB part I like, the direct fire mashing is a pain, at least without acquiring yet more large gear- like a basket.

Like I said, it depends on your process. I don't do much juggling at all. To switch from dough-in to HERMS I simply add cold water.
Every extra step adds one more ball in the air. Some juggle better than others. Having a separate pot makes things simpler that way, and reduces the urgency of some tasks, at least for me.

I batch sparge, and IMO there's no reason to mash out when batch sparging, so no temp juggling there. I fire the HLT burner up as soon as the MLT starts draining, and by the time the first runnings are transferred, the water is up to sparge temp. It's a very simple, fast, and easy process
I with you on the batch sparging. Fly sparging is only good for style points and $1 worth of grain. IMO there is also no reason to worry about sparge water temp, except for it being too hot. Someone reputable did a thorough test that debunked the benefit of heated sparge water for anything except reducing subsequent time to reach boil. I still like a mash-out though, but have little rationale as to why when batch sparging or BIAB, since it can be done just as effectively in the kettle. Maybe a bit more starch is cooked out of the grain, but I am grasping.
I also dough in with mash temp strike water (+2F maybe), and ramp back up to mash temps. Probably unnecessary, and a lot of extra stirring, but that will hopefully be minimized with the mash coil. Again no real ground to stand on, other than maybe treating the proteins a little more gently.

I'd actually like to make some changes that allow me to reduce my rig from a 3 vessel to a 2 vessel. I may be moving out of state soon, in which case I'd likely sell my current set-up and build a single vessel system.
If you don't have any issues with batch sparging, BIAB is a small leap and will get you down to at most 2 if you still want HERMS. You can even add a dunk sparge in a spare bucket to get very close to or even match batch sparge efficiency. If not, its nothing $2 worth of grain won't remedy. The HERMS pot can be sized to fit inside the BK for storage. For anything larger than 10 gal batches, I am finding that a basket is a necessity.

My HEX coil is mounted to the underside of a lid that fits all of my kettles, allowing me to use it in many different configurations. I tried the method you're describing, but found there was too much temp variance between the areas close to the coil and further away. I think it would have worked better with a stir motor, or if my MLT were better insulated so that the HEX was only providing minimal amounts of heat. I've added a lot of insulation to my MLT since then, and might try it again.
The stir motor is key, along with insulation, and a very thin, or even better a full volume, mash. A little localized temp variance is probably a good thing, as long as the upper limit is controlled like with HERMS, and the mash is manually stirred a few times during the mash.
Your setup is very close if not exactly what I am building. I will also use the stir motor when chilling and to get the whirlpool going. Although, I haven't had much luck with the whirlpool cone lately with the quantity of flame-out hops I have been using. I have a plan to reuse a soon to be acquired mash basket (needed for 50lb ~25 gal BIAB) as a hop spider/strainer to get rid of most of the hops after chilling, then replace the stirrer lid for whirlpooling. I will also be squeezing the nectar back out of those thieving bastards. I don't mind a losing a couple of bucks in grain to efficiency, but those hops are sponging up a lot of what is close to final product. Maybe less big flameout adds and increased dry hopping is a better solution.

I also like to reduce the time the wort spends being pumped. Since adding the insulation I've started leaving the pump off for the first ~30min of the mash. I'm familiar enough with my system that I can hit my temps without the aid of the HERMS, and I don't notice any difference in wort clarity between an hour of re-circulation and 15 min of re-circulation.
I will not be pumping any product with my revised BIAB setup, but it does require elevating the kettle to fermenter height. The mash coil pump can serve dual duty as a ice bath pump for the chiller in the summer.
I am always jacking with things too much to get really dialed in, but even if I did, I like having the ability to recover gracefully when the SHTF- something systems with no mash heat infusion, like coolers, don't allow.
 
QFT. In many or most brewing applications, actual PID control is either pointless or meaningless. I think a lot of people use the term PID to refer to temp controllers in general and it is kind of annoying.
I always thought QFT was Quote For Truth to prevent someone from editing/backtracking over something you don't agree with them on.
You seem to be in the same camp I am regarding the use of PID control methods for most brewing applications. The time constants are generally too large for any real benefit from PID, especially when combined with only one sided corrective input. There is a whole thread for the Arduino PID library where they finally resorted to a staged proportional only algorithm, since simple on/off logic beat every tuning they tried with full PID. It did take them a few months of jacking around after I told them they were chasing their tails with PID for an HLT. Engineers love fancy sparkly technology.
 
After 333 pages, Thank you :) Didn't have the heart to spend $70 on the Johnson controller. I have bought 2 already.. I did this under $30. Awesome stuff. Thanks!
 
cwi said:
Only the single stage version has the audible alarm. There are other dual stage controllers with actual alarm outputs for not much more money. There are also simple add on temp monitors with alarms, although that would require another probe.

Quit putting words in my mouth!
In case you didn't notice, I recommend buying the dual stage for their versatility. In previous posts I recommend PIDs for anything heat related, again because of their versatility. As you stated, yes, the general consensus is to use a 'PID' for heating elements. Although, it has more to do with the ability of most PIDs to vary/limit the power using PWM and SSR relays than the theoretical tighter control. The fancy PID control functionality is over-hyped for most brewing applications, and unless you get the tuning just right, is actually worse than a simple on/off controller . Even used for RIMS, it doesn't behave much differently than an on/off controller.

I believe most people using these (correctly) as mash controllers are using them for a HERMS rig. On/off control (at full power) is generally not suitable direct heat input to the mash. A lot of folks think any direct heat input, even a PID'd RIMS with an ULWD element, is unsuitable for the mash. The liquid is where mashing occurs, more so than the grain bed, and with direct/RIMS there is localized heating well above the mash temp, especially when ramping.

If you are going to recirc/pump anyway, check out HERMS. A separate small cheap kettle for the HERMS bath can easily be controlled using almost any type of controller. Trying to use the HLT as the HERMS bath just complicates matters, a dedicated one is simpler and better. You would need to agitate the bath somehow. What can serve double duty is an immersion chiller as the HERMS coil. The stainless ones are the same price or cheaper than a copper IC, and conduct heat as good or better (much thinner walled tubing). Some use the HERMS bath filled with ice water as a chiller, but that requires a lot of extra ice and pumping, especially if you wouldn't need ice otherwise. There are better solutions if you do need an ice assist.

And now you have hit on the main reason someone would use one of these controllers for a heating element. For an HLT or HERMS bath, they will work fine, but should be used with an additional SSR so you don't fry the built in relay. The lifespan of relays declines exponentially as you increase the current.
I don't see the 'way cheaper' part, though. Doesn't Auber have a suitable PID for ~$35 and an SSR for ~$10 (or less if you just match capacity of the ebay controller)?
As for 'way easier', the rigging is virtually identical for both. Maybe a bit more time to RTFM so you understand how the PID controller works.

I appreciate your comments and insight. I was talking about the single phase for controlling the mash because I have a spare just collecting dust on my work bench that I could easily wire up. My main reason for the low wattage heater in my mash tun is space savings. I have 165 degree water on demand in my garage that I batch sparge with and am mostly concerned with controlling the heat of my mash.
I'll do some more research before I commit to anything.
 
I appreciate your comments and insight. I was talking about the single phase for controlling the mash because I have a spare just collecting dust on my work bench that I could easily wire up. My main reason for the low wattage heater in my mash tun is space savings. I have 165 degree water on demand in my garage that I batch sparge with and am mostly concerned with controlling the heat of my mash.
I'll do some more research before I commit to anything.
An element directly under the tun screen is not suitable for mashing. Getting the flow and temp sensing right, even for a PID and ULWD element, would be difficult. If you add a gas solenoid, what JuanMoore has done, and I have too, will work fairly well- using direct fire while recirc'ing, and adjusting the flame to the point that it almost matches the heat input need. That, combined with a diffuse burner and a conductive kettle, helps prevent hot spots. I used the large Banjo burner and a large clad pot.

Any electric RIMS will need a 'PID' controller with PWM, an SSR, and preferably a ULWD element. Either a HERMS, or mash coil & stirrer if you do loose mashes or BIAB, are the main methods that would allow reuse of an on/off controller with an electric element (or gas).
 
Phew there are a lot of pages here kind of intimidating to try and sort through. I will need one of these for my walk in cooler build I am thinking of building one instead of buying a Johnson Controller can someone post to the easiest most concise directions? I would go by the first page but being two years old I am not sure if the directions are still relevant or if there has been changes in the hundreds of following posts???
 
akthor said:
Phew there are a lot of pages here kind of intimidating to try and sort through. I will need one of these for my walk in cooler build I am thinking of building one instead of buying a Johnson Controller can someone post to the easiest most concise directions? I would go by the first page but being two years old I am not sure if the directions are still relevant or if there has been changes in the hundreds of following posts???

The first in this thread is still accurate. The controller hasn't changed. There are several more threads on it as well. Instead of listing them all out here is a google search string. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...IP68gSipIDoCw&ved=0CDQQrQIwAA&biw=320&bih=504
 
Back
Top