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ebay aquarium temp controller build

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Just got done with wiring this up , thinking of a way to test it some how ... Pretty easy all I had to do was read this forum , cut and drill holes and bend wires done !!
 
hammis said:
so now that my new system is built, i'm going to have some fun and build a cooled fermenter and control it with one of these temp controllers. i somehow lost the NTC probe, but i found this one on ebay which has the same specs and is stainless and threaded. so we'll see how that works out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Water-Temperature-Sensor-fit-Honeywell-Thermostat-NTC-10K-Thermistor-/111003126322?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d84d4a32

Cool. Post back if it works.
 
The two I have are not labeled as Willhi's but they likely have a common source.
7931-label.jpg


The relay is the exact same part as in my STC-1000 and is rated at 15A.
7928-relay.jpg

I have to believe the answer is somewhere in the 328 pages, yet I have searched tirelessly over the last two days trying to find the answer before posting this question.

I also have the CH54 single stage model with ONLY SEVEN terminals on the back. Has anyone developed a wiring diagram for this model? Every other one I've found has 8 terminals.

Would really appreciate the assistance if someone has properly wired this model and has a corresponding diagram!!!

Cheers,
ASD
 
...I also have the CH54 single stage model with ONLY SEVEN terminals on the back. Has anyone developed a wiring diagram for this model? Every other one I've found has 8 terminals.

Would really appreciate the assistance if someone has properly wired this model and has a corresponding diagram!!!

Cheers,
ASD
The single stage model can control temperature by either heating OR cooling, but not at the same time. Heat or Cool mode must be selected on the controller.

As for wiring, it is basically the same as the STC1000 except there is only one switch, between 6 & 7. The function control, which locks settings, can be ignored.

7931-7037.jpg
 
Can anyone tell me how to attach a 15 amp (or should it be a 20 amp?) fuse to the incoming power line? I am assuming that it would be the black line - is this correct?
 
Can anyone tell me how to attach a 15 amp (or should it be a 20 amp?) fuse to the incoming power line? I am assuming that it would be the black line - is this correct?

I put mine (15A breaker) between the service and the relay (black line, the pin 7 line above) because I wanted to protect the internal relay.
 
I put mine (15A breaker) between the service and the relay (black line, the pin 7 line above) because I wanted to protect the internal relay.

Right - that's what I was thinking. I doubt the relay gets above 5-6 amps - but just in case. Is this just a case of stripping the wire, and attaching each end to where it belongs on the fuse?
 
helibrewer said:
I put mine (15A breaker) between the service and the relay (black line, the pin 7 line above) because I wanted to protect the internal relay.

Isn't the stc1000 rated at 240v 10A? It might catch fire before 15a.
 
I put mine (15A breaker) between the service and the relay (black line, the pin 7 line above) because I wanted to protect the internal relay.

Sorry to bump the thread - but could you tell me what kind of fuse I should be installing? I'm using 14 gauge wire running 120 V current.

I know next to nothing about electricity and wiring. I was able to wire the SCT-1000 together using information on this thread and others, and it's been controlling my freezer wonderfully. I don't think the freezer will overheat the wire when it powers on but I'd like to have a fuse on the line just in case...

I've looked high and low on the internet for information about how to install an inline fuse, but most sites are about how to wire an amp or wire from the batteries on a car or boat etc., using smaller gauge wire.

Update: did some more searching and found the answer here.
 
Built one of these with the STC-1000 last night for a buddy. Came in just a little under 3 hours build time. That was with my little girl and my wife kindly interrupting me several times! lol...
 
Ok, I've read thru here a bit, but don't have like 2 weeks to fish thru the entire thread. :) I want to get one of these controllers, but confused a bit by the eBay description. Are there 2 separate controllers for different input voltages? Do I need to find one that is 110vac? Sorry for the basic question....
 
Buy from this ebay seller "NovaPCS" they are in New York/Jersey and are REALLY fast shippers. I have ordered several from them and they get them to me in a few days as opposed to a few weeks from China. Also, since they are in the states, they only send the 120V units out.
 
wickman6 said:
Ok, I've read thru here a bit, but don't have like 2 weeks to fish thru the entire thread. :) I want to get one of these controllers, but confused a bit by the eBay description. Are there 2 separate controllers for different input voltages? Do I need to find one that is 110vac? Sorry for the basic question....

Huaco said:
Buy from this ebay seller "NovaPCS" they are in New York/Jersey and are REALLY fast shippers. I have ordered several from them and they get them to me in a few days as opposed to a few weeks from China. Also, since they are in the states, they only send the 120V units out.

Yup, get one that specifically states 120VAC. Like Huaco said, there are continental resellers that ship quicker. If you don't mind waiting on a slow boat from china you can save about $3.
 
Quick question.
I have not seen anyone wire an STC with just the male and female ends of a cord (which is what I'm doing)

I have a dead mini fridge so cooling is not going to be hooked up at the moment.
After cutting the female end off my extension cord, I plan on wiring that directly into the heat switch and use it for my brewbelt plug in (No outlet will be on my box)

Now, wiring for that is pretty straight forward then right?
Hot/netural (black/red) into the power supply switch via male end, as well as the heat switch via female end, then just wire the ground to each other inside the box?

EDIT: wait the hot wire (male end) would go to the power switch and the heat switch. Neutral would go to female end and spliced to the power supply. Hot wire (female end) goes to heat switch. Ground would just go to eachother. I keep forgetting the STC does not power anything once power is received.
 
Quick question.
I have not seen anyone wire an STC with just the male and female ends of a cord (which is what I'm doing)

I have a dead mini fridge so cooling is not going to be hooked up at the moment.
After cutting the female end off my extension cord, I plan on wiring that directly into the heat switch and use it for my brewbelt plug in (No outlet will be on my box)

Now, wiring for that is pretty straight forward then right?
Hot/netural (black/red) into the power supply switch via male end, as well as the heat switch via female end, then just wire the ground to each other inside the box?

EDIT: wait the hot wire (male end) would go to the power switch and the heat switch. Neutral would go to female end and spliced to the power supply. Hot wire (female end) goes to heat switch. Ground would just go to eachother. I keep forgetting the STC does not power anything once power is received.

The HOT and COLD relays of the STC are simply switches on the hot lead to provide AC power to the desired device. That AC power comes from the supply connected to I believe it's terminal 1, so in that sense, the STC does provide the AC power for your brewbelt.
 
Got it all wired up and working. Used my second way of thinking to wire it up, after my original post I thought about it...and it just didnt make sense.

Used the male end to power the STC, female end as the outlet to the brewbelt.

....now I just need my damn brewbelt. :cross:
 
Got it all wired up and working. Used my second way of thinking to wire it up, after my original post I thought about it...and it just didnt make sense.

Used the male end to power the STC, female end as the outlet to the brewbelt.

....now I just need my damn brewbelt. :cross:

Look at www.beanfarm.com You can buy the FermWrap by the foot and put your own cord on it. I've had better success with FermWrap than my brewbelt...more surface area I guess.
 
Look at www.beanfarm.com You can buy the FermWrap by the foot and put your own cord on it. I've had better success with FermWrap than my brewbelt...more surface area I guess.

Some really cheap stuff on that site, thanks helibrewer.

So for the flexwat heater all I would need is the flexwatt itself, clips with insulators and a cord right?
 
Some really cheap stuff on that site, thanks helibrewer.

So for the flexwat heater all I would need is the flexwatt itself, clips with insulators and a cord right?

Also, check out reptilebasics.com That is where I got my heat tape. It was just a little cheaper there than the bean farm place.
 
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