Compact tap and CO2 regulator for PicoBrew Serving Keg?

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tateconcepts

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Hi all,

So I've been desiring to test out one of these PicoBrew models and recently took the plunge for $300. It's an interesting little wort maker and I do like the FreeStyle crafting options available. In any case, I wasn't getting the Pro model this low and I already had limited space allocated to both brew and less to store in. The PicoBrew fermenting keg and serving keg are about all the space I'm going to get this season but I don't always desire nor want to wait for natural fermentation to occur. I know one can fast ferment with 36psi if I recall (using their regulator) but I didn't see a means to add compact or small tap with it.

I did see an EdgeStar Mini Keg adaptor kit with cartridges and regulator, however I'm not sure I see any type of spigot on this. https://www.kegerator.com/tbc50-acc-edgestar-mini-keg-beer-dispenser-accessory-kit/TBC50-ACC.html

Was I correct in that this was designed to connect to a tap system? Anyone have any suggestions on those I've seen online that can serve as both regulator and a tap?

Thank you!
 
To clarify this, I am referring to the process of forced carbonation after fermentation. I'm already going through "fast fermentation" and will likely move to the standard one for some brews - however, the manual does not really discuss this except in the Pro version, but in mine is basically the racking step (since one would normally add sugar and naturally wait for carbonation). https://picobrewcontent.blob.core.windows.net/content/picoc/PicoC_Manual.pdf
 
No answers are needed on this, I remedied this myself and since I own both Pro and C models - could care less at this point. If anyone comes across this, PicoBrew makes a specific regulator that is not a ball lock type and has a fitting into the top bung of the serving keg. I'm not sure I would advise forced carbonation however, as the serving keg is really not meant to hold up to that. Instead, this regulator is really more for preservation. In that case, buy some bottles if you plan to keep some brews for sampling and QA.
 
I just bought the Pro and made my first beer. It's sitting in my wine cooler as we speak. The CO2 takes about 36 hrs before I can enjoy (at least that's what Annie says in the videos). Anyways, instead of buying CO2 cartridges every time I want to brew is there a way to buy a larger bottle like this:

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draf...3zuMeWuLHcwDe4k2MTLIlZ0pvmxRr4jRoCnO0QAvD_BwE

What do I need to get this to work on the Pico brew kegs? I have two brew kegs and no serving kegs. I assumed I was getting a serving keg when i spent $800 for it so I bought an extra brew keg. Do the serving kegs have a CO2 spout?

I will be buying a 5L oak keg for some of the beer I make just for curiosity sake. Hopefully it comes out good.

Thanks!
 
What do I need to get this to work on the Pico brew kegs? I have two brew kegs and no serving kegs. I assumed I was getting a serving keg when i spent $800 for it so I bought an extra brew keg. Do the serving kegs have a CO2 spout?

I will be buying a 5L oak keg for some of the beer I make just for curiosity sake. Hopefully it comes out good.

Thanks!

You are better off using the brew kegs for serving. The pico serving kegs are a pain to dispense from with the CO2 regular Pico sells. For the 5 lb CO2 cylinder you will need a gas regulator to control pressure, some gas line, clamps and a gas (grey) ball lock connector for the brewing kegs. You can find any of these at a local homebrew shop or online
 
I just bought the Pro and made my first beer. It's sitting in my wine cooler as we speak. The CO2 takes about 36 hrs before I can enjoy (at least that's what Annie says in the videos). Anyways, instead of buying CO2 cartridges every time I want to brew is there a way to buy a larger bottle like this:

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draf...3zuMeWuLHcwDe4k2MTLIlZ0pvmxRr4jRoCnO0QAvD_BwE

What do I need to get this to work on the Pico brew kegs? I have two brew kegs and no serving kegs. I assumed I was getting a serving keg when i spent $800 for it so I bought an extra brew keg. Do the serving kegs have a CO2 spout?

I will be buying a 5L oak keg for some of the beer I make just for curiosity sake. Hopefully it comes out good.

Thanks!
)
First of all, there are "lots" of claims by PicoBrew that I find are "exaggerated". They need those units to sell, otherwise their PicoPak's won't sell and their business model is dead.

Forced CO2 carbonation works I suppose to an extent, although it's pricey. If you bought a Pro and not a Pico C, then you received a CO2 regulator - which is needed anyway to serve the beer from the Corny kegs. My suggestion is to either bottle it and use sugar or buy the serving kegs on Amazon for $20 (for which they are gravity fed and can also be naturally carbonated). If one actually reads Annie's own comments to pro brewers, you will find that she never recommends fast fermentation or forced carbonation. YMMV but I have yet to get most beers to taste right that are forced carbonated. Honestly, it's a neat toy but its just not needed and I have too many craft beers easily available in Texas that I really don't "need" it. I'm probably going to sell it, with tons of freebies and extra packs for $300 I think. If someone local in NTX is interested, please PM me.
 
I find force carbonating works fine in fact thats how all breweries do it, the catch is even though they can fully carbonate in hrs or less most leave the beer sit overnight as it does not taste as good until the co2 sits in the beer for a period of time prior to serving.
I found the same to be true of my blichmann quick carb clone I made.
stout sells a divice for micro and nanobreweries to do the same called a "spox" ..
I have mini regulator that uses the pellet gun co2 cartridges and its extremely touchy and hard to get setup right.
 
I would be wary of any non food labeled disposable co2 canister. Many brands that are for air rifles put a few drops of lubricant in each canister.
 
OK so I decided to just keep using the small CO2 canisters (keep it simple).

Next question...

Ive brewed three batches with the Pico and each batch has resulted in a flat beer with a ton of head...like wait 10 minutes to let it settle in the glass before attempting to fill the glass.

What am I doing wrong? The steps are fairly simple. I use distilled water and I soak everything in Star San for 15 minutes...let it air dry...and leave the racking keg in a dark and cool (50 -60 degree) room. I make sure I drink all of it before moving on (for science purposes) and it tastes like beer..looks like beer but its flat and comes with an overabundance of head.
 
I would be wary of any non food labeled disposable co2 canister. Many brands that are for air rifles put a few drops of lubricant in each canister.
the disposable ones I bought which are the same as air rifle cartridges, are labeled as food grade.. they are $1 each on ebay or at least they were for a 30 pack with free shipping when I bought mine. I do not use these to carbonate, only serve... they are way too small for carbonating. I force carbonate with a regular co2 tank and regulator if I dont use the quickcarb method which I often dont bother with anymore.
 
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OK so I decided to just keep using the small CO2 canisters (keep it simple).

Next question...

Ive brewed three batches with the Pico and each batch has resulted in a flat beer with a ton of head...like wait 10 minutes to let it settle in the glass before attempting to fill the glass.

What am I doing wrong? The steps are fairly simple. I use distilled water and I soak everything in Star San for 15 minutes...let it air dry...and leave the racking keg in a dark and cool (50 -60 degree) room. I make sure I drink all of it before moving on (for science purposes) and it tastes like beer..looks like beer but its flat and comes with an overabundance of head.
What is the temp of everything including the beer line to the tap... if temps arent correct you can get tons of foam. also how long are you letting it carbonate and stabilize for prior to serving?
 
Racking temp is at 60. The beer line is room temp but because it is transparent I can see that I am getting a lot of foam in the line just as it exits the keg. I usually wait two/three weeks while it sits in the racking keg. The racking keg doesn't get moved around.
 
You need to chill the beer to serving temp for it to absorb the proper amount of co2 and serving lines can't be room temp or you will get foam..
 
A simple Google search says serving temp for beer is no lower than 46f. 60f is too high?

One more thing...

Instead of transferring the beer to the racking keg using the Pico rack method, can I transfer it to a serving keg and let it naturally carbonate in that instead of another keg? I'd like to brew two batches but was told to transfer to another Pico keg.
 

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So I have had the Jackass IPA fermenting in my wine fridge for a week. I did this because within 12 hrs. there was foam coming out of the air lock. The temp wouldn't get below 70f so, I put it in at 40f for 3 days then increased to 50f for 3 days. Should I let it sit at 50f or gradually let it increase to 70 again? I don't have a temp controlled place to let it stay at 60f.
 
So I have had the Jackass IPA fermenting in my wine fridge for a week. I did this because within 12 hrs. there was foam coming out of the air lock. The temp wouldn't get below 70f so, I put it in at 40f for 3 days then increased to 50f for 3 days. Should I let it sit at 50f or gradually let it increase to 70 again? I don't have a temp controlled place to let it stay at 60f.
sticking a fermenting ale in a chamber at 40 degrees is a good way to cold crash it and stop fermentation. expect some possible off flavors if it picked back up when you moved it to ale temps from stressing and killing much of the yeast. ( I accidentally did this to an octoberfest last year and it gave it a metallic flavor making it a dumper)

You should have either had a blow off tube on the fermenter or a larger fermenter for the high krausen stage of fermentation. I have no idea what type of propietary setup the pico uses but most use say a 6 or 6.5gallon primary fermenter for making 5 gallons to limit the blowoff (foam) out of the airlock of blowoff tube.

50 degrees is lager yeast temps... if this really is an IPA it uses ale yeast.. the lowest you want to go with most ale yeast strains is the lower 60s...

Temp control is very important in making good beer...
 
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I pulled it out of the cooler and let it sit on the kitchen counter. Within two hours the air lock started showing activity. I've found an area in my house that may keep it in the 60's. How long should I let it sit before going to the racking container? Two weeks? Is there anything I could add that will help?
 
I pulled it out of the cooler and let it sit on the kitchen counter. Within two hours the air lock started showing activity. I've found an area in my house that may keep it in the 60's. How long should I let it sit before going to the racking container? Two weeks? Is there anything I could add that will help?
by racking container do you mean a secondary fermenter? I dont use a secondary because I have conicals myself but usually thats done when primary fermentation slows down after the first week or so... the idea is to transfer when most of the active fermentation has completed. many home brewers dont bother with this stage for ales since its only usually going for 10-14 days... you may find it may take a bit longer due to the delay from chilling it to 40.
 
That's good news. Means I can use both of the kegs to brew beer rather than using one for fermentation and the other for secondary. I've been learning as I go since Pico doesn't make detailed videos. The Pico videos say you need to ferment then transfer to a racking keg. Ive tried asking the question about using the fermentation keg as a serving keg too but didn't get a response.
 
That's good news. Means I can use both of the kegs to brew beer rather than using one for fermentation and the other for secondary. I've been learning as I go since Pico doesn't make detailed videos. The Pico videos say you need to ferment then transfer to a racking keg. Ive tried asking the question about using the fermentation keg as a serving keg too but didn't get a response.
im not familiar with the pico but if your fermenting in the actual serving kegs then yes youll want to transfer to one just because of the dead yeast and trub at the bottom.
 
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