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Do you mean connector for external antenna? OK - ESP32 WROOM-32UThat doesn't seem to have an external antenna.
Mylo
Last edited:
Do you mean connector for external antenna? OK - ESP32 WROOM-32UThat doesn't seem to have an external antenna.
Mylo
I *think* the original BrewPi had a means to turn the heater on when teh door was opened. The functionality there was using a 60w bulb to heat the chamber, and the same bulb for lighting it. I've never seen it work myself, and I've never looked for the code in the original controller sketch.So I see that both you and Thorrak have a "door" pin marked on your boards. I haven't dug through the source code yet - and I don't see anything about it in Vito's Wiki. My assumption is that it's just informational?
It does have a report in teh logs. Can't say what BPL does with it. My shoddy memory is telling me I think @pocketmon may have removed door functionality.Does it appear on the the graph or logs?
Not natively. It may be used for something else in BPL - as I hsared privately, the boards that Thorrak and I did are specific to BrewPi Remix and Fermentrack implementations, but I understand they work with BPL.Does it temporarily suspend cooling when the door is open?
Going to give a big shrug there and refer you back to the BPL experts.What about the chamber fan and chamber light pin types?
You can run BPL on thorraks board with the proper .bin file. I have a board set up to run BPL with an OLED displayNot natively. It may be used for something else in BPL - as I hsared privately, the boards that Thorrak and I did are specific to BrewPi Remix and Fermentrack implementations, but I understand they work with BPL.
Ther is a walk around to this, power the display with 5v and the I2C adapter with 3V3.Yes to the logic shifter, unless you find a 3V3 LCD. No need for a shifter on the OneWire. OneWire is pulled up with 3V3 which is safe for the ESP8266 logic. It can be powered by 3V3 or 5V safely, although my experience is that the 5V is more reliable, especially with longer wires.
Is that the jumper found on many of these?Just do not connect display Vcc to the adapter Vcc. Works like a charm.
Is that the jumper found on many of these?
You can use D5, D7, and D8. Use D8 for heating, I would suggest.
Or, you can try ESP32. It has more PINs available.
This looks more like a typo or a missed config. I fight PIO on a daily basis. If you want to zip up your project directory and drop it in a PM, I'd be happy to look with you.I get a compilation error on line 46 of the OneWireTempSensor.cpp file: " 'class OneWire' has no member named 'pinNr' ".
Finally got the PlatformIO stuff setup. Starting to play around with the config options. I am not able to turn on DEBUG mode, though. When I do, I get a compilation error on line 46 of the OneWireTempSensor.cpp file: " 'class OneWire' has no member named 'pinNr' ".
Maybe the OneWire library has changed? Anybody know how to fix that one?
Mylo
It's not a magic value. 4k7 is the "correct" value when pulled up with 5V. Since you are using a lower voltage data line, it would be recommended to use a stronger pull-up to get the same benefit. Some folks use 10K with decent results, although I have been seeing an awful lot of people lately (in this and other projects) getting drop-outs which are solved by stronger pull-ups and 5V sensor power (not pull up.)The 4.7k is the pull-up for the OneWire data line. I've always seen that value used with the one-wire data line...?
Correct, for both 5V and the 3V3 that comes off the controller.As far as the caps are concerned, are you saying that they should physically be closer to where the power comes into the board?
Right. On my boards, I have a 4-pin and a 2-pin header for the same - to avoid confusion.you have to remove the jumper, and connect the JDVcc to 5v. So if I made that relay header 5 pins, and added a 5vdc, I can break it out at the relay board into a 4 pin and a 1 pin header
Yep, works fine. Been using that for quite a few years on multiple projects.I assume that should be plenty to operate the emitter in the opto-isolator.
No need, they have internal pull-ups and this is not a data line so much as a relay actuator.Maybe I should put 10k pull-ups to 3v3 on the heat and cool pins, too?
Same idea. Some folks using the parallel LCD screens and Arduinos experience some screen garbage. They have done all sorts of things inckuding a completely separate power supply for the relay. It's not an issue here.I see people are tying the Vcc pin (next to IN2 on the 4 pin header on the relay board) to the 5v reference on an Arduino.
I *think* the original BrewPi had a means to turn the heater on when teh door was opened. The functionality there was using a 60w bulb to heat the chamber, and the same bulb for lighting it. I've never seen it work myself, and I've never looked for the code in the original controller sketch.
It does have a report in teh logs. Can't say what BPL does with it. My shoddy memory is telling me I think @pocketmon may have removed door functionality.
Not natively. It may be used for something else in BPL - as I hsared privately, the boards that Thorrak and I did are specific to BrewPi Remix and Fermentrack implementations, but I understand they work with BPL.
Going to give a big shrug there and refer you back to the BPL experts.
Ther is a walk around to this, power the display with 5v and the I2C adapter with 3V3.
Just do not connect display Vcc to the adapter Vcc. Works like a charm.
Ok, so I'm in the process of getting my window AC-glycol chiller/heating pad setup working. I have brewpiless built on two NodeMCU ESP8266's now. The original plan was to use one to run the glycol chiller (on beer constant mode, I think?) and one to run the pump and heating pad to control beer temp. I just saw in another thread in January 2019 you said you can run three actuators from one board — glycol chiller (AC unit), pump to cool beer, and heating pad/band to heat beer.
I've been reading all I can find through the git documentation and forum and I can't find any recently updated info on the setup for glycol. There's a lot of old information that I worry is leading me down the wrong path.
IS controlling the glycol temp AND the beer temp possible with one board? Or do I need to use one for glycol and one for beer?
If two, do I need to build both boards with EnableGlycolSupport uncommented? I know to reduce PID values to 0 and to match the fridge and beer filters — do I do this just on the glycol control board, just on the beer control board, or both?
There's also unclear info on which sensors to use for what. One sensor in the beer (assigned as beer temp), one sensor taped to the fermenter (as room temp? fridge temp?), one sensor in the glycol (as fridge temp? room temp?).
I know most people just default to using an Inkbird or something to control glycol temp, but I prefer having everything working together. If I can get this setup working properly, I'd be happy to suggest edits to the git wiki for anyone else like me trying to use this setup for glycol.
I have personally smoked a couple of controllers by forgetting and applying 5V pull-ups to data lines on an ESP8266 in a breadboard. I've certainly read as many Internet reports as anyone else about how they are 5V tolerant. If these are 5V tolerant, it's news to Espressif who states "Operating Voltage 2.5 V ~ 3.6 V."ESP8266 is said to be 5V tolerant. I've connected my LCD to 5V power and direct to I2C pins for years, since the beginning of this project. It has been working fine so far. I might be lucky, but you might be as lucky as me.
I have personally smoked a couple of controllers by forgetting and applying 5V pull-ups to data lines on an ESP8266 in a breadboard. I've certainly read as many Internet reports as anyone else about how they are 5V tolerant. If these are 5V tolerant, it's news to Espressif who states "Operating Voltage 2.5 V ~ 3.6 V."
Interesting. I'm experiencing some drop outs of the room temperature on my latest build. I have 3v3 on the sensors. Are you saying that this might get better with 10k pull-up? How do you calculate this anyway?It's not a magic value. 4k7 is the "correct" value when pulled up with 5V. Since you are using a lower voltage data line, it would be recommended to use a stronger pull-up to get the same benefit. Some folks use 10K with decent results, although I have been seeing an awful lot of people lately (in this and other projects) getting drop-outs which are solved by stronger pull-ups and 5V sensor power (not pull up.)
It's not a magic value. 4k7 is the "correct" value when pulled up with 5V. Since you are using a lower voltage data line, it would be recommended to use a stronger pull-up to get the same benefit. Some folks use 10K with decent results, although I have been seeing an awful lot of people lately (in this and other projects) getting drop-outs which are solved by stronger pull-ups and 5V sensor power (not pull up.)
I would not change the data line, but the jumper looks to be on the supply voltage so that's good. The power requirement for the sensor is 3v - 5.5v so powering it with 5v makes sense given the inevitable voltage drop. There's no benefit to, and potential damage from using 5v on the data line pullup.I was planning on running them at 5v anyway. The data line is still at 3v3. I could run that through one the remaining sets of pins on the logic level shifter... better or no benefit?
A 10k is really "down" in terms of pull-up strength. A lower number is a stronger pull-up because it allows more power to the line. So a 4k7 is good on a 5v line (such as when using an Arduino.) I'd use a 2k2 (or 2k7 or 3k3 if that's what you have) with 3v3 on the data line. That's just some dude's opinion on the Internet though. The only way to tell for sure is to test and measure.if not I should go up to 10k?
Sorry, probably a stupid question, but... What is considered long for a sensor line? 2 meters? 5 meters?I have had many problems with longer lines with many DS18B20.
The best solutions was to go down with the pullup.
Datasheet states the Vout low at 7mA, so you can go as low as 820 ohms on 3,3v
I have 4 fermenters in the basement, so there is a 15m line to the first sensor connector , and 2 m between the next and so on. Eache sensor has a 1m o 1.5m line to the line connector.Sorry, probably a stupid question, but... What is considered long for a sensor line? 2 meters? 5 meters?
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