Spike Complete System

[augiedoggy]

I think there just suggesting using a simple piece of hose as the sparge arm and moving it around at the end to rinse over the grainbed...

 

[Bohern]

I think there just suggesting using a simple piece of hose as the sparge arm and moving it around at the end to rinse over the grainbed...

What are your thoughts as the best way recirculating in the mash with the tube as it is?
My only concern the tube coming down the side and causing channeling

 

[Bohern]

OK, I am going to ask this question here even though it is a water question it does pertain with how to use this system.

My question regards use of Campden tablets in mash tun and HLT.

SO, if I am doing a 10 gallon batch on the system and treat my HLT with one campden tablet which has 14 gallons of water in it let's say, then transfer out of my HLT to my Mash Tun for my mash volume, then top off the HLT again with water out of my tap to get above the herms coil, do I need to add another tablet or will the one be enough?

 

[daveerickson]

OK, I am going to ask this question here even though it is a water question it does pertain with how to use this system.

My question regards use of Campden tablets in mash tun and HLT.

SO, if I am doing a 10 gallon batch on the system and treat my HLT with one campden tablet which has 14 gallons of water in it let's say, then transfer out of my HLT to my Mash Tun for my mash volume, then top off the HLT again with water out of my tap to get above the herms coil, do I need to add another tablet or will the one be enough?

Since a Campden tablet can dechlorinate up to 20 gallons you could fill your HLT all the way up and treat with one tablet, then transfer what you need to your MT.

My understanding is you can't really overdo Campden tablets so you have some flexibility. My current process is to heat strike water in my BK, and heat my HLT up to mash temp. I put 1 tablet in each vessel. BK is treating about 8 gallons, and HLT about 15.

 

[Bohern]

Thanks Dave, you answered my second question that I didn't ask yet as well. I wondered if adding an additional would be any harm too.

My mash tun is a 15G tun so I will be transferring and then having to refill.

 

[Gibberoni]

So my wife and I wanted to do a gose, so we started a brew on Wednesday to allow it to kettle sour until tomorrow. I really wanted to make sure that I got every ounce of efficiency that I could based on everyone suggestions so I took my time and made sure that I did everything I could.

1) I recirculated the mash as slowly as I possibly could with my setup
2) I added a locline semi circle to allow the mash to recirc around the mash, rather than though the silicone hose into 1 spot.
3) I stirred the mash every 15 minutes

Even with doing all of these things, I missed my OG by 8 points... 1.030 instead of 1.038. I checked my system in beersmith to make sure I didn't accidentally set my BH efficiency way to high, but it is set at 72% I was always easily able to hit at least 72% with my previous gas setup.

Alright, so my buddy and I brewed on Saturday. My on my Spike 20 gallon system, and him with my old cooler mash method. One would think that the $5K setup would deliver much better results...

Overall the mash in a cooler method yielded 78% efficiency on a 5 gallon batch. Missed OG by going over 1pt (1.051 v 1.050). My Spike system yielded 62%, and missed again by many points (1.040 v 1.050) for a 7 gallon batch. Almost the exact same recipe, same crush from the same store.

This is really starting to tick me off...

 

[augiedoggy]

Alright, so my buddy and I brewed on Saturday. My on my Spike 20 gallon system, and him with my old cooler mash method. One would think that the $5K setup would deliver much better results...


Overall the mash in a cooler method yielded 78% efficiency on a 5 gallon batch. Missed OG by going over 1pt (1.051 v 1.050). My Spike system yielded 62%, and missed again by many points (1.040 v 1.050) for a 7 gallon batch. Almost the exact same recipe, same crush from the same store.

This is really starting to tick me off...

if you think more expensive equipment means better results your surely going to be disappointed.. Its no different than any other hobby... people spend more to have the cooler toys. a $400 golf bag isnt going to improve your game either but it might do what you really bought it to do... Just like that Audi in your avatar.. do you really think that it will end up getting you from point A to point B in the time you own it more effectively while being more cost effective? No thats not why you bought it. you bought it because it was nice.. luxurious and marketed to be more prestigious... well the spike system is like an Audi so to speak.

To make beer it's all about the best process for you and following through with attention to details like temp and time. The spike system requires a lot more processes that the cooler method so theres more to possibly go wrong along with the possible advantages.. its similiar to going from extract to all grain- more to possibly go wrong but more advantages too.

It's all a tradeoff.. for example a plastic cooler makes a better insulated mash tun than any stainless one but the bling factor gets us all.. and then we tell ourselves it will perform better or be more durable (as if it really needs to be). But with temp control as well as just holding it we can do more once we know how to utilize it. you can get better conversion, better head retention and so on..
The best analogy I can give you for this would be two cars racing each other. One guy goes from driving an automatic to a stick and starts losing races is it because the stick is inferior ? No it's because he just doesn't quite know how to drive it with as much skill and accuracy once he does he will be able to blow away the automatic. You just went from the auto to the stick so to speak... you need to learn how it handles and what works to get the best performance out of it..

 

[mongoose33]

if you think more expensive equipment means better results your surely going to be disappointed.. Its no different than any other hobby... people spend more to have the cooler toys.. to make beer it's all about the best process and following through with attention to details like temp and time. The spike system requires a lot more process that the cooler method so theres more to possibly go wrong along with the possible advantages..
It's all a tradeoff.. for example a plastic cooler makes a better insulated mash tun than any stainless one but the bling factor gets us all.. and then we tell ourselves it will perform better or be more durable (as if it really needs to be). But with temp control as well as just holding it we can do more once we know how to utilize it.
The best analogy I can give you for this would be two cars racing each other. One guy goes from driving an automatic to a stick and starts losing races is it because the stick is inferior ? No it's because he just doesn't quite know how to drive it with as much skill and accuracy once he does he will be able to blow away the automatic. You just went from the auto to the stick so to speak... you need to learn how it handles and what works to get the best performance out of it..

I used to make and sell custom golf clubs. I had people approach me who thought that if they just could get better clubs, their game would magically improve.

My clubs were matched--matched--on either swingweight or moment of inertia, were matched on frequency (flex), and could be made to create an entire set of irons that felt like someone's favorite club from their old set. They were more consistent, often much more so, than what people could get from major manufacturers.

People wanted the promise new golf clubs presented, because they didn't want to do the work to improve, and didn't want to learn what it takes to actually golf well.

They wanted to buy a game, in other words. Well, that can't be done. New clubs aren't going to change a bad swing path, they're not going to help you course manage your way around a golf course, and they certainly aren't going to get you a short game, where the goal is to change three shots into two, or even one, around the green.

But once you have the other things fixed, new clubs can make a difference.

*****

I'm struck by the parallel metaphor, @augiedoggie. A new system will not automatically make one a better brewer. You can't buy a game here either.

Last fall, I upgraded, if you can call it that , my brewing operation to electric brewing with RIMS (you know this, of course). It has taken me half a year to get the system dialed in, to get it to where I control what happens and the way it happens.

It is most definitely a standard transmission brewing setup, and early on, I kept grinding the gears here, and there, and forgetting to downshift when necessary.

But now that I have finally learned to use it, it's almost magical at times. I'm struck by the similarities to golf in some ways, the nuances, the little things that, added together, can produce great consistency of process.

 

[Bohern]

Alright, so my buddy and I brewed on Saturday. My on my Spike 20 gallon system, and him with my old cooler mash method. One would think that the $5K setup would deliver much better results...

Overall the mash in a cooler method yielded 78% efficiency on a 5 gallon batch. Missed OG by going over 1pt (1.051 v 1.050). My Spike system yielded 62%, and missed again by many points (1.040 v 1.050) for a 7 gallon batch. Almost the exact same recipe, same crush from the same store.

This is really starting to tick me off...

Gibberoni, what size did you do, 5G as well?

 

[Gibberoni]

if you think more expensive equipment means better results your surely going to be disappointed.. Its no different than any other hobby... people spend more to have the cooler toys. a $400 golf bag isnt going to improve your game either but it might do what you really bought it to do... Just like that Audi in your avatar.. do you really think that it will end up getting you from point A to point B in the time you own it more effectively while being more cost effective? No thats not why you bought it. you bought it because it was nice.. luxurious and marketed to be more prestigious... well the spike system is like an Audi so to speak.

To make beer it's all about the best process for you and following through with attention to details like temp and time. The spike system requires a lot more processes that the cooler method so theres more to possibly go wrong along with the possible advantages.. its similiar to going from extract to all grain- more to possibly go wrong but more advantages too.

It's all a tradeoff.. for example a plastic cooler makes a better insulated mash tun than any stainless one but the bling factor gets us all.. and then we tell ourselves it will perform better or be more durable (as if it really needs to be). But with temp control as well as just holding it we can do more once we know how to utilize it. you can get better conversion, better head retention and so on..
The best analogy I can give you for this would be two cars racing each other. One guy goes from driving an automatic to a stick and starts losing races is it because the stick is inferior ? No it's because he just doesn't quite know how to drive it with as much skill and accuracy once he does he will be able to blow away the automatic. You just went from the auto to the stick so to speak... you need to learn how it handles and what works to get the best performance out of it..

I apologize if I came off as "crybaby"ish in that post. Only frustrated. I have been brewing for around 10 years and up until recently, I was brewing really well with my cooler setup. I was hitting my numbers and making great beer, and I wanted to take my experience and brewing to the next level by buying a Spike system. I did not, in any way, think that this system would immediately "make better beer", that is not what I was aiming for. I really bought this because I knew it would make it easier to get more "consistent" beer.

What makes me frustrated is that I was able to hit all my numbers and temps almost every time with my old setup, and here I am struggling. I am slowly getting better and better with the temps, but the damn conversion step is killing me. I just cant figure out why my system cannot get the conversion that I am used to. Thats really all that I am ticked about, and it came out in a different way in the post.

I will keep trying and tweaking, and hopefully I will get there sooner rather than later!

 

[Gibberoni]

Gibberoni, what size did you do, 5G as well?

This was a 7 gallon (5 to be kegged) batch. I usually do 14 gallon batches (10 to keg and whatever is left to bottle), but I am out of kegs! Need more friends to drink faster

 

[Bohern]

This was a 7 gallon (5 to be kegged) batch. I usually do 14 gallon batches (10 to keg and whatever is left to bottle), but I am out of kegs! Need more friends to drink faster

I only asked cause I was going to buy the 20G system but changed my mind cause I was concerned about the mash being too thin. Was just thinking out loud and wondering if that may be an issue? Not sure if you had done a larger batch if that would change anything.

Edit: when doing small batches

 

[augiedoggy]

I apologize if I came off as "crybaby"ish in that post. Only frustrated. I have been brewing for around 10 years and up until recently, I was brewing really well with my cooler setup. I was hitting my numbers and making great beer, and I wanted to take my experience and brewing to the next level by buying a Spike system. I did not, in any way, think that this system would immediately "make better beer", that is not what I was aiming for. I really bought this because I knew it would make it easier to get more "consistent" beer.

What makes me frustrated is that I was able to hit all my numbers and temps almost every time with my old setup, and here I am struggling. I am slowly getting better and better with the temps, but the damn conversion step is killing me. I just cant figure out why my system cannot get the conversion that I am used to. Thats really all that I am ticked about, and it came out in a different way in the post.

I will keep trying and tweaking, and hopefully I will get there sooner rather than later!

Oh I get it.. No apology needed. And I apologize if my response seemed snarky. I changed my homebrewing setup more than once myself.. it takes time to familiarize yourself with what works and what doesnt and what seems to have what effect.. Just when I think I have things figured out I end up "upgrading" or changing something. Some brewers end up questioning the whole thing and going back to simple BIAB for their wants...

 

[Gibberoni]

I only asked cause I was going to buy the 20G system but changed my mind cause I was concerned about the mash being too thin. Was just thinking out loud and wondering if that may be an issue? Not sure if you had done a larger batch if that would change anything.

Edit: when doing small batches

I did change from a 1.25 ratio to 1.5... maybe I am too thin now? I thought the spike system needed a bit thinner of a mash to help with the recirculation.

Another thing on the list to try then!

1) Add alpha amylase (to help with the conversion)
2) Drop back to a 1.25 liquid to grain ratio
3) Stir the **** out of the mash for the first 5-10 minutes, then again at 30 minutes
4) Rework my numbers in beersmith

 

[mongoose33]

I apologize if I came off as "crybaby"ish in that post. Only frustrated. I have been brewing for around 10 years and up until recently, I was brewing really well with my cooler setup. I was hitting my numbers and making great beer, and I wanted to take my experience and brewing to the next level by buying a Spike system. I did not, in any way, think that this system would immediately "make better beer", that is not what I was aiming for. I really bought this because I knew it would make it easier to get more "consistent" beer.

What makes me frustrated is that I was able to hit all my numbers and temps almost every time with my old setup, and here I am struggling. I am slowly getting better and better with the temps, but the damn conversion step is killing me. I just cant figure out why my system cannot get the conversion that I am used to. Thats really all that I am ticked about, and it came out in a different way in the post.

I will keep trying and tweaking, and hopefully I will get there sooner rather than later!

Is *everything* else the same? Water amendments, thinness of mash, etc?

One thing you might try is to do the mash w/o recirculation, and insulate the mash tun as necessary to keep the heat at the right levels. Take recirc out of the equation and see if you can reproduce your former results.

Another thing I learned is that it might be valuable to go another 15 minutes in recirculation.

A third thing comes from my son (has a Grainfather). He'd been struggling w/ low efficiencies, then decided to add more strike water (less sparge water). His efficiency shot up with the thinner mash.

Just a few thoughts and ideas....

 

[Blazinlow86]

I did change from a 1.25 ratio to 1.5... maybe I am too thin now? I thought the spike system needed a bit thinner of a mash to help with the recirculation.

Another thing on the list to try then!

1) Add alpha amylase (to help with the conversion)
2) Drop back to a 1.25 liquid to grain ratio
3) Stir the poopy out of the mash for the first 5-10 minutes, then again at 30 minutes
4) Rework my numbers in beersmith

I would suggest you try milling at different settings. Most people on "the electric brewery" forum find a looser gap works better with the Kal clone herms systems. If your milling tight *and* trying to circulate fast enough to get good heating performance your likely getting channeling and or a compacted grain bed. A easy way to tell is if your site glass level drops while recirculating. If it does you need to mill looser or circulate slower. Milling at .040 seems to be the most common. Cheers

 

[Bohern]

I did change from a 1.25 ratio to 1.5... maybe I am too thin now? I thought the spike system needed a bit thinner of a mash to help with the recirculation.

Another thing on the list to try then!

1) Add alpha amylase (to help with the conversion)
2) Drop back to a 1.25 liquid to grain ratio
3) Stir the poopy out of the mash for the first 5-10 minutes, then again at 30 minutes
4) Rework my numbers in beersmith

I had ordered the 20G but changed my mind just after placing the order. Some of the fine folks here suggested that a 20G tun may the mash to be too thin of a mash (thinkness not water to grist) that i may get channeling on a small batch. I was just wondering if you may be see that yourself based off your low eff number. But wasn't sure if you had did a big batch to strike that off the list as a possible cause.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I had ordered the 20G but changed my mind just after placing the order. Some of the fine folks here suggested that a 20G tun may the mash to be too thin of a mash (thinkness not water to grist) that i may get channeling on a small batch. I was just wondering if you may be see that yourself based off your low eff number. But wasn't sure if you had did a big batch to strike that off the list as a possible cause.

Ive only ever once did a 5g batch of light pilsner on my Kal clone with a 20g mashtun. It worked fine but did look abit funny as the grain bed was probably only 2 inches tall. Cheers

 

[Bohern]

Ive only ever once did a 5g batch of light pilsner on my Kal clone with a 20g mashtun. It worked fine but did look abit funny as the grain bed was probably only 2 inches tall. Cheers

I think it could be done and as you pointed out it can, I just got a little tun shy once that was brought to my attention.

 

[mongoose33]

I think it could be done and as you pointed out it can, I just got a little tun shy once that was brought to my attention.

Tun shy?

Wow.

 

[augiedoggy]

Tun shy is a good one... for what its worth I have a 16 gallon stainless mash tun with 3 gallons under the false bottom and average about the same whether in doing 6 or 10.50g brews..

 

[Bohern]

That is good to know, I have a 15G tun on the way. I read many of your posts talking about using a 15G tun and that is what helped me make my decision.

 

[tmschmal]

A few questions for the group. I'm currently using a typical cooler system, and looking to move to 10 gallon batches. I'm also leaning towards moving from natural gas to electric, which means I've got a lot to learn. I'm considering the Spike 20g system.

1) Has anyone used this on a 5' long table? I can make a 6' table work in my space, but it'll push my conical out into the walkway a bit.
2) I know Spike uses their quick connect hoses. I've been using camlocks from brewhardware. Any reason I should stick with what I have, or switch?
3) How about using a RipTide pump instead of the chugger?
4) Has anyone used Electric Brewing 360 panel? It sounds and looks cool, just don't see much in the ways of testimonials for it yet.

 

[Bohern]

A few questions for the group. I'm currently using a typical cooler system, and looking to move to 10 gallon batches. I'm also leaning towards moving from natural gas to electric, which means I've got a lot to learn. I'm considering the Spike 20g system.

1) Has anyone used this on a 5' long table? I can make a 6' table work in my space, but it'll push my conical out into the walkway a bit.
2) I know Spike uses their quick connect hoses. I've been using camlocks from brewhardware. Any reason I should stick with what I have, or switch?
3) How about using a RipTide pump instead of the chugger?
4) Has anyone used Electric Brewing 360 panel? It sounds and looks cool, just don't see much in the ways of testimonials for it yet.

I am still waiting on mine but I'll do my best to answer these. For reference I didn't order the entire system.
I ordered the kettles, all fittings and hoses (system minus pumps and control panel)

1 - I am waiting to get my kettles which are a 20G BK and 15G MT and HLT then will figure out table size and height.
2 - I think they only sell the TC or the QC connections but I guess you could order without the connections. The sales staff was very helpful with me and let me pick and choose what I needed.
3 - I too bought my own Riptide pumps, I wanted the precise control their valve will gove so I can really tweak the flow for mash and sparge.
4 - I bought the same panel Spike sells with the system from Electric Brewing supply. Ryan was so helpful to me in answering my questions I felt compelled to buy the panel from him direct. So I can't really say anything about the 360 one. But contact Ryan he is very helpful.

That is my 2 cents.

Cheers!

 

[mongoose33]

A few questions for the group. I'm currently using a typical cooler system, and looking to move to 10 gallon batches. I'm also leaning towards moving from natural gas to electric, which means I've got a lot to learn. I'm considering the Spike 20g system.

1) Has anyone used this on a 5' long table? I can make a 6' table work in my space, but it'll push my conical out into the walkway a bit.
2) I know Spike uses their quick connect hoses. I've been using camlocks from brewhardware. Any reason I should stick with what I have, or switch?
3) How about using a RipTide pump instead of the chugger?
4) Has anyone used Electric Brewing 360 panel? It sounds and looks cool, just don't see much in the ways of testimonials for it yet.

I have camlocks; I wish they were the quick connects like Spike uses, but they're just too darned expensive for me.

As far as using a RipTide, given a choice, I would. I have one. It's a great pump.

I have a spike 10-gallon kettle, also another non-spike 10-gallon, it's the same diameter. Here they are on my bench; the right side of the spike kettle is 5 feet from the left edge of the bench.

If you're trying to do 3 kettles, well, there's room. Having done the RIMS system now for nearly a year, I much prefer it over what would have been a HERMS setup. It's more controllable, takes up less space, etc. etc.

But it would appear whatever your setup is, a 5-foot table would accommodate it. BTW, it took me a long time to figure out a configuration, in my space, to get the Riptide to serve both the BK and the MT, through the RIMS tube. I can take the hoses and move them from side to side and not have to have all sorts of different lengths to keep track of.

BTW, I'm using a counterflow chiller which is under the bench top, below the BK.

 

[tmschmal]

I am still waiting on mine but I'll do my best to answer these. For reference I didn't order the entire system.
I ordered the kettles, all fittings and hoses (system minus pumps and control panel)

1 - I am waiting to get my kettles which are a 20G BK and 15G MT and HLT then will figure out table size and height.
2 - I think they only sell the TC or the QC connections but I guess you could order without the connections. The sales staff was very helpful with me and let me pick and choose what I needed.
3 - I too bought my own Riptide pumps, I wanted the precise control their valve will gove so I can really tweak the flow for mash and sparge.
4 - I bought the same panel Spike sells with the system from Electric Brewing supply. Ryan was so helpful to me in answering my questions I felt compelled to buy the panel from him direct. So I can't really say anything about the 360 one. But contact Ryan he is very helpful.

That is my 2 cents.

Cheers!

I'm thinking of doing the same thing, i.e. order just the kettles and fittings from them. You raise another question. Why did you choose to go with 15g MT & HLT? I had thought about that, but figured that there was a reason that they didn't make the system that way. I'm on the west coast, so we only know how to make big high gravity beers, so I didn't figure the extra space would be an issue

Yes, I've been talking to Ryan, I was just looking for someone else who had the 360.

 

[tmschmal]

Thanks mongoose!

 

[Bohern]

I bought the 15g MT and HLT cause I was concerned about the 20G MT being too big to do 5G batches (worried mash bed would be too thin)

 

[Bohern]

I'm thinking of doing the same thing, i.e. order just the kettles and fittings from them. You raise another question. Why did you choose to go with 15g MT & HLT? I had thought about that, but figured that there was a reason that they didn't make the system that way. I'm on the west coast, so we only know how to make big high gravity beers, so I didn't figure the extra space would be an issue

Yes, I've been talking to Ryan, I was just looking for someone else who had the 360.

I will tell you this, I only paid about 2100 for the system minus the controller and pumps. After what I priced similar setups for I thought of it as a good deal. And that is with all of the plumbing from them same as you see in the demo's

 

[Bohern]

Nice Setup Mongoose

 

[juggabrew]

I am still waiting on mine but I'll do my best to answer these. For reference I didn't order the entire system.
I ordered the kettles, all fittings and hoses (system minus pumps and control panel)

1 - I am waiting to get my kettles which are a 20G BK and 15G MT and HLT then will figure out table size and height.
2 - I think they only sell the TC or the QC connections but I guess you could order without the connections. The sales staff was very helpful with me and let me pick and choose what I needed.
3 - I too bought my own Riptide pumps, I wanted the precise control their valve will gove so I can really tweak the flow for mash and sparge.
4 - I bought the same panel Spike sells with the system from Electric Brewing supply. Ryan was so helpful to me in answering my questions I felt compelled to buy the panel from him direct. So I can't really say anything about the 360 one. But contact Ryan he is very helpful.

That is my 2 cents.

Cheers!

I went the same route but went with all 15 gallon kettles. After brewing my 3rd batch and my most recent one was an 11% RIS I could’ve went with the 10 gallon mlt/hlt. I wanted the 15 gallon ktl to prevent boil overs since I’m indoors now. I also bought 2 riptide pumps and went with grounded brewing techs 30a panel($1000). All said and done I saved $2500 by not going with spikes complete system. I love spike but paying for the over priced panel wasn’t going to fly with me.

Edit: sorry full disclaimer I did purchase the kettles on cyber Monday so it was 20% off as well. Still saved money tho

 

[Wreck99]

I went the same route but went with all 15 gallon kettles. After brewing my 3rd batch and my most recent one was an 11% RIS I could’ve went with the 10 gallon mlt/hlt. I wanted the 15 gallon ktl to prevent boil overs since I’m indoors now. I also bought 2 riptide pumps and went with grounded brewing techs 30a panel($1000). All said and done I saved $2500 by not going with spikes complete system. I love spike but paying for the over priced panel wasn’t going to fly with me.

Edit: sorry full disclaimer I did purchase the kettles on cyber Monday so it was 20% off as well. Still saved money tho

I did a similar thing. I bought a lot of the Spike System, but not the pumps, table, or panel. I did this for two reasons, to save money and so I could have the panel I really wanted. I bought Riptide pumps and built the Electric Brewery 30A DIY panel kit from Kal's website. The table I found on Amazon for like $150. All in all I saved about $2000 going this route and got more of what I really wanted the build to end up like.

 

[Bohern]

Bunch of smart guys in here

 

[Bohern]

What water to grist ratio's are you all using, I'd be interested to see how everyone stacks up using the Spike System

 

[Wreck99]

What water to grist ratio's are you all using, I'd be interested to see how everyone stacks up using the Spike System

I'm at 1.5 qt / lb ratio.

 

[tmschmal]

Thanks for the pic Wreck99, looks like a nice setup. What size kettles are those, and what length table? Going with the partial system from Spike seems to make the most sense.

My thinking with a 20g system was to do full 10g high gravity batches and not worry about boil overs with maybe a very occasional 13-15g batch. I'm wondering if 15g on the MT/HLT would be large enough? Right now I have a CF10 conical, a could see supplementing that with another CF5 or CF15. (who am I kidding, it'll be at least a CF10)

 

[jready]

What water to grist ratio's are you all using, I'd be interested to see how everyone stacks up using the Spike System

I do 1.25 quarts per pound. I mentioned this earlier in the thread but I set up everything the night before and let it mash overnight if I am not doing a stepped mash. I hit my expected gravity or a little higher every time.

The higher comes from the fact that I had a BIAB set up before and had to add a few extra pounds to get close. Old habits die hard. I crush with a barley crusher on the factory set crush.

Just in case anyone is wondering I have not noticed any difference in my electric bill. Been using my system for a year and a half with at least 25 brews behind me.

For what it’s worth I went all in even got the table. I love the quick disconnects but cursed a little when they came out with the trick amp version.

 

[Bohern]

I did a similar thing. I bought a lot of the Spike System, but not the pumps, table, or panel. I did this for two reasons, to save money and so I could have the panel I really wanted. I bought Riptide pumps and built the Electric Brewery 30A DIY panel kit from Kal's website. The table I found on Amazon for like $150. All in all I saved about $2000 going this route and got more of what I really wanted the build to end up like.

Wreck99, what is that meter above your water filter? I saw someone use something like that in a youtube vid and it measured his water for him? Is that what yours does and can you tell me what it is? Thanks!

 

[Wreck99]

Yes, it measures the water. You tell it how much you want to dispense and that's what it delivers. I have a valve on there to control flow rate as well. Very nice indeed. I use it in all my brewing videos on my YT channel as well if you wanted to see it in action. I picked it up off ebay a while back. Here's a link to it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/G1-2-Water...ter/282357604339?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

 

[Wreck99]

Thanks for the pic Wreck99, looks like a nice setup. What size kettles are those, and what length table? Going with the partial system from Spike seems to make the most sense.

My thinking with a 20g system was to do full 10g high gravity batches and not worry about boil overs with maybe a very occasional 13-15g batch. I'm wondering if 15g on the MT/HLT would be large enough? Right now I have a CF10 conical, a could see supplementing that with another CF5 or CF15. (who am I kidding, it'll be at least a CF10)

I use the 15 gallon Spike kettles on this system. The table is 6 ft long.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016CIGSK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1