REX-C100 PID (cheapest PID on ebay)

[ferari12]

Reverse the thermocouple connections. You probably messed up the + and - leads.

 

[betadave]

Check the polarity of the thermocouple. It might be backwards

 

[cgherrington3]

Nope, when I switch them I get the error code. It reads room temp correctly.

Oh well, just did a buy it now on the bay for another one. $12.49 shipped.

 

[cgherrington3]

you guys were right I had it backwards, but.... when wired correctly I get "oooo" for PV

New PID came in. Got the same result. Thinking bad thermocouple.

Ordered new thermocouples. One is 0-600C and one is 0-400C. Is that a major issue?

I'm only going to use it for strike temp, so I can just set the SC to match strike temp and call it a day. Right?

I have a 555 for boil control. That works.

If the thermocouples don't work, I'm throwing in the towel.

 

[mattd2]

you guys were right I had it backwards, but.... when wired correctly I get "oooo" for PV

New PID came in. Got the same result. Thinking bad thermocouple.

Ordered new thermocouples. One is 0-600C and one is 0-400C. Is that a major issue?

I'm only going to use it for strike temp, so I can just set the SC to match strike temp and call it a day. Right?

I have a 555 for boil control. That works.

If the thermocouples don't work, I'm throwing in the towel.

What type of sensor do you have - make sure you have the controller set up for the correct type of input. oooo indicates a overscale value so I could be that the unit is not set up for the correct probe. Reading through the manual it looks like you will need to set both the senosr type and the range (well that's what I can make out from the limited info they give)

 

[betadave]

I have no trouble with the REX C100 but the instructions are sometimes confusing. My unit appears to only be able to use the K type thermocouple. When I look at eBay, I see labels that specify K but the downloaded manual suggests the usual types are OK and that you have to set the type is the unit. It may be that your unit only runs on K and that you don't have that. Check what you bought, check the controller to see if you can select the type you bought and maybe that can resolve things. I am always uncertain about what the Chinese cheap stuff really is. The price is so low that I expect to find it does not work exactly as advertised but that it will work. There is probably some huge market that makes chips that they exploit and some large use of thermocouples they exploit. We get the bargains but the stuff may take some extra effort to use.

 

[cgherrington3]

It was the thermocouple. I got 2 off the bay.

One of them is 0-600. Does anyone know how to set up the Rex for that?

Thanks

 

[betadave]

You need to know the type of thermocouple, not the temperature range. If they specify 0-600 it is likely to mean that the quality of the wire will be such that the voltage will be appropriate over that temperature range. The controller will have a selection of what type of thermocouple you are using and that will tell the controller what the voltage should be so the readout is correct. My experience is that the REX is built for the K only (from what I own) but there is a manual on line that tells how to set the controller to others. If you have the programmable version, download and read the manual and follow the instructions. If that does not seem to be the case, assume it is a K.

The programming is done with the set button and the appropriate arrows. Only the manual can tell you what the display should have. You will probably also want to run the autotune to set the proportional, integral and derivative settings as it will drive almost anybody nuts to do it manually.

 

[cgherrington3]

Both the thermocouples worked

Not too thrilled with the PID action until I tossed my Harbor Freight Wort Chiller Pump (HFWCP) in the keggle to move the water around.

Cheers!

 

[varocketry]

I read posts that advise use of a FUSE or protection in the element line and would appreciate some KNOWLEDGEABLE PERSON's counsel on the proper FUSE to buy. I've been trying to research to know exactly what I need.

I have the <chinese> RKC REX C100 PID discussed in this thread and a 40amp SSR to control a 5500w 240vac heater element.

This diagram from the AUBERINS.com site is roughly what I'm trying to build, it shows a fuse on one of the 240vac leads to the SSR from the contactor.

http://www.sutton.org/images/auber-PID-contactor-diagram.JPG <larger image>

What type of fuse should this be?

Thanks.

 

[betadave]

I am not sure what you mean by KNOWLEDGEABLE. I will suggest a bit but you can decide if you want to consider what I say as sensible. I am not an electrical engineer. If you need professional advice, you probably need to hire somebody. First, read what Omega has to say about fuses here:

http://www.omega.com/auto/pdf/REF_FuseSizingGuide.pdf

Since you have a resistive load, you will have no issues with startup surges, etc. I would suggest a fast acting fuse. If your current jumps, it would likely mean there is a short to ground or a serious overvoltage condition. You want the system to shut down quickly. You might want to put two fuses in since you have hot leads to both sides of the heating element. If the fuse in the schematic blows, the heater will stop but will still have a voltage of 110 V to ground. It is possible that the heating element would continue running at half power. Since failures occur in unexpected ways, you would have to imagine the consequences of having the voltage remain on.

Fuses with a delay would make sense with something like motors where there might be a high current starting load. You will not have that. The current your system should pull is 22.9 amps if everything is spot on for voltage and power. It would be a good idea to measure the current to know what you really have. I would think something like a 25 or 30 amp fuse would be a good size.

Good luck.

 

[Lucio]

anyone has ever tried these ones? They appear to have a SSR included.


http://dx.com/p/c100-ssr-digital-temperature-controller-thermocouple-black-137496


http://dx.com/p/c700-ssr-output-temperature-controller-black-149595

 

[varocketry]

There is an auction on EBAY for this C100 PID unit, a thermocouple and a SSR.
and the shipping is free.

I fired mine up and it seems to work fine and as expected. :rockin:

I did find out and confirmed in other POSTS that this REX C100 PID displays temperature in degrees Celsius ONLY. It doesn't do Fahrenheit.

If you want Fahrenheit, choose another unit.

 

[ferari12]

I bought the first unit (C100) about two years ago and it didn't have an SSR. I had to open it up, remove the physical relay and wire the connections closed so it could output to an SSR. It wasn't difficult and I posted detailed instructions with pictures earlier in this thread. It may have changed. I don't have any experience with the C700.

 

[ferari12]

Here are the instructions:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/bbqzfm58c7lpsbo/c100.pdf

 

[mattd2]

anyone has ever tried these ones? They appear to have a SSR included.


http://dx.com/p/c100-ssr-digital-temperature-controller-thermocouple-black-137496


http://dx.com/p/c700-ssr-output-temperature-controller-black-149595

The ones in the link do not seem to have an SSR included as far as I can tell, just seem to have an output suitable to run an SSR (maybe).
DX can get some good deals, but you do take a risk with the extreame lack of information

 

[RoGrrr]

What I don't understand is why remove the relay ? I don't know how much drive the SSR requires but why not pick off the +5VDC in the PID and connect it to the N.O. set of contacts so when the PID CALLS FOR SSR enable, there is +5 to drive it.

 

[mattd2]

What I don't understand is why remove the relay ? I don't know how much drive the SSR requires but why not pick off the +5VDC in the PID and connect it to the N.O. set of contacts so when the PID CALLS FOR SSR enable, there is +5 to drive it.

Because a mechanical relay is not rated for quick switching and will fail prematurly (I'm sure I calculated the life of the mech relay to still be about 3 years based on the normal 10,000 operations most are rated for!)

 

[alien]

+1 I removed the relay on my Watlow PID and use the output to drive an SSR. It's the way to go.

 

[RoGrrr]

If you're switching rated current, yes, the relay might fail. 10,000 ops ? I'd say they will operate well beyond that, especially if you're simply switching milliamps. But go ahead and remove it if it makes you feel any better.

Because a mechanical relay is not rated for quick switching and will fail prematurly (I'm sure I calculated the life of the mech relay to still be about 3 years based on the normal 10,000 operations most are rated for!)

 

[loucurr]

Just finished modifying my REX C100 and it works fine. Here is a good video link on how to modify the unit to power the SSR. [ame]http://youtu.be/2NpcMycHDvk[/ame]

 

[N2GN2]

When I turn my PID on and it is cold (-7*C) the PV flashes. The heating element only turns on for a few seconds before turning off permanently. I have to turn the PID off and on a few times for the the PID probe to register a higher temperature before it will stay on by itself. Does anyone have any ideas to fix this issue? I'm not sure what settings to mess with. Thanks!

 

[augiedoggy]

I have both the rex c100 and a couple my pin pids and hands down the mypin 's are way better and worth the extra $10..... you get manual boil control and Fahrenheit readouts....plus its easier to understand and navigate menus...
The my pin TD4 is better than the TA4 because the TA4 doesn't not have the manual control option.

 

[alien]

I have both the rex c100 and a couple my pin pids and hands down the mypin 's are way better and worth the extra $10..... you get manual boil control and Fahrenheit readouts....plus its easier to understand and navigate menus...
The my pin TD4 is better than the TA4 because the TA4 doesn't not have the manual control option.

Plus you can actually locate some documentation.

 

[mattd2]

Plus you can actually locate some documentation.

How much is a MyPin TD4? Compared to an Auber?

 

[augiedoggy]

How much is a MyPin TD4? Compared to an Auber?

$25.99 including shipping from eBay.... shipping from NY.... not sure on the auber but I'd bet its around double plus shipping....
I brewed my first batch with my new electric setup yesterday and everything went well except I realized I need a powerful exhaust hood.

 

[mattd2]

$25.99 including shipping from eBay.... shipping from NY.... not sure on the auber but I'd bet its around double plus shipping....
I brewed my first batch with my new electric setup yesterday and everything went well except I realized I need a powerful exhaust hood.

Hahaha, I think I read your reply on another thread where you answered my question! And $20 for the TA4 right? Aubers are around the $45 mark.
I use a Sestos PID which have an annoying error that the control period can not be reduced lower than 10 seconds, set at anything less than 10 and it stays at 10 - except if you set it at 0, 1 or 2 it is set at 72 seconds! Not too much of an issue as I have 2x 2kW elements in my kettle so the 10 second control period isn't too noticable with the other ellment 100% on.

 

[alien]

How much is a MyPin TD4? Compared to an Auber?

I've seen them on Amazon for about $35.

Might be cheaper on ebay but you have to look hard to find the model number sometimes.

 

[mattd2]

I've seen them on Amazon for about $35.

Might be cheaper on ebay but you have to look hard to find the model number sometimes.

Yes, Ebay and Asian sellers is a great combo - look hard to find the exact info... find some vague info... buy... wait 3 weeks - 3 months shipping holding breath that all turns out alright... sigh of relief when arrives (only been stung once )

 

[augiedoggy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dual-Di...431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd7898407

Its not hard to tell by the picture. The TD4 has a grey face and the TA series is black.
As I stated seller is in Staten island NY not Asia..... but they all come from Asia including the auber .... something you just have to get used to