REX-C100 PID (cheapest PID on ebay)

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augiedoggy

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Yes, Ebay and Asian sellers is a great combo - look hard to find the exact info... find some vague info... buy... wait 3 weeks - 3 months shipping holding breath that all turns out alright... sigh of relief when arrives (only been stung once :D)
Over 500 purchases on eBay myself according to my feedback.... and I've only been burned once which coast me under $20..... compared to the thousands I've saved I'm not complaining.

I'm not sure if you guys know but a lot of amazon venders are also in Asia..
And if not your just paying to go through a middleman in the states who marks it up and resells it.
 

mattd2

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dual-Di...431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd7898407

Its not hard to tell by the picture. The TD4 has a grey face and the TA series is black.
As I stated seller is in Staten island NY not Asia..... but they all come from Asia including the auber .... something you just have to get used to
Can't get on Ebay at the moment, but since I am not in the US and closer to China than the US anyway I get a lot of my gear from Asian sellers. Good to know about the actual external difference between the two!
 

mattd2

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Over 500 purchases on eBay myself according to my feedback.... and I've only been burned once which coast me under $20..... compared to the thousands I've saved I'm not complaining.

I'm not sure if you guys know but a lot of amazon venders are also in Asia..
And if not your just paying to go through a middleman in the states who marks it up and resells it.
While I've not as many buys I have not really been stung - Last 2 items did not show up within 4 weeks so I raise a cse with the ebay seller; 1 refunded imediately the other made me wait another 2 weeks then refunded.
 

nobodyfamous

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Sorry to post this here, but you seem to be the only people I can find who have used the REX C100

I want to use it in a cooling type setup

Can I set it to activate control once a temperature has reached say 175C and stay on as long as it is above like 145C? I have read about this feature on other simple controllers and was referred to as "Hysteresis" Does this REX C100 have this? Will it operate in a cooling mode?

This is an ebay one for around $20.00 model # should be REX-C100KF02M*AN

Thanks for any info.
 

loucurr

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Sorry to post this here, but you seem to be the only people I can find who have used the REX C100

I want to use it in a cooling type setup

Can I set it to activate control once a temperature has reached say 175C and stay on as long as it is above like 145C? I have read about this feature on other simple controllers and was referred to as "Hysteresis" Does this REX C100 have this? Will it operate in a cooling mode?

This is an ebay one for around $20.00 model # should be REX-C100KF02M*AN

Thanks for any info.

What are you going to use it for?
 

augiedoggy

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I've read that it only have the heating mode... I use an stc-1000 for cooling controller myself.... they are only 15 bucks and come with the temp probe... lots of fermentation chamber and aquarium temp controller builds on YouTube featuring them.
I only use my Rex for temp readout and even at that job its not optimal since it only displays celcius and I'm in the states...
 

nobodyfamous

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It is to control a fan on a wood stove. So I am dealing with temperatures up to about 300C/572F (some times higher by accident)

The idea is that once the chiminey is up to temp (around 175C) the fan kicks in to extract the extra heat, and should continue to do so until the exhaust temp falls back down to around 145C. If the fan keeps running too much heat is removed and I get a partial draft collapse which smothers the fire causing a full draft collapse and thats bad.

I looked at the stc-1000, but it's temp range is to low. I am looking at the WH7016D which goes from -20 to 572F. The draw back with it is it will only allow for a 15C swing or hysteresis. I'd like a lot more control then that. (the idea is to let the fire get hot enough that it has really good draft before taking that draft energy away, but keep taking it during the diminishing stage of a burn)

I may have to go with an Auberins SYL-2342 or SYL-2362 but they are a lot more then $10-$20.00 I can go either celsius or fahrenheit as I am in Canada and the big old USA pushes that imperial crap on us ;)

I don't really need PID control, just simple on off based on temp.
 

loucurr

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You may want to go with the auberins...the REX lids have many issues but should be able to change the settings to cool vs heat.
 

augiedoggy

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The my pin might have heating and cooling at half the cost of the auber not sure but its worth checking the specs...I know they go to Ike 900 degrees or something ridiculous like that.
 

big_len

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On my cheapo china clone, Heating or Cooling is set using parameter SL6 on the initialisation menu:

0001 = Heating
0000 = Cooling
 

augiedoggy

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On my cheapo china clone, Heating or Cooling is set using parameter SL6 on the initialisation menu:

0001 = Heating
0000 = Cooling
Your right that's correct for the Rex c100.... see what I get for listening to others saying it can't be done...
It was easily overlooked in the "Engrish" directions...

IMG_20140111_112128.jpg
 

augiedoggy

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Sweet now I can make a temp controller for my reef tank out of mine when I pull it out of my brew panel to replace it with the my pin I ordered...
 

pickles

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augiedoggy said:
Sweet now I can make a temp controller for my reef tank out of mine when I pull it out of my brew panel to replace it with the my pin I ordered...
In fact you can use it for anything requiring calefaction :)
 

augiedoggy

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In fact you can use it for anything requiring calefaction :)
Lol nice :p The only catch is I now remember the YouTube videos were someone tested a handful of these and found they don't work correctly if at all on 120v.... I will have to confirm this for myself of course.
 

big_len

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Cal`e`fac´tion
n. 1. The act of warming or heating; the production of heat in a body by the action of fire, or by communication of heat from other bodies.
2. The state of being heated.

Of all the places I expected to learn a fancy new word, a chinese instruction manual was not one of them :ban:
 

augiedoggy

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Of all the places I expected to learn a fancy new word, a chinese instruction manual was not one of them :ban:
Lol well it only makes sense..... Aren't they printing our dictionaries yet?
Seriously though that reference aside these directions are the worse I've seen to date, and I have bought a lot of electronics from china.
 

priest77

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I received today my rex C100 but I can't find the option to calibrate it, where it is?
 

priest77

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What is auto tune doing?

I want to calibrate its sensor probe. When it shows me that the temperature now is 37,7C and I have a precise thermometer near to it that shows me 37.4C, than I want to correct my C100 to show me the same real temperature.
 

jeffmeh

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What is the margin of error on the probes, and how do you know that the reference probe is the correct one? Just curious.
 

priest77

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The other two I calibrated using mercury thermometer for laboratory as a reference, but on the REX-C100 I can't find that option.
 

jeffmeh

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If the probe or PID has a margin of error of +- 0.5C, you are as close as you are likely to get, as you are within it. That is what I was getting at. Unfortunately, I have no idea regarding your original question, so I am no real help.
 

priest77

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Yes, it could be in the probe margin of error of +- 0.5C, but I would like to correct it if is possible.
 

Huddie_Leadbetter

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So I also got the REX C100 but I dont know if its the one that needs to be modified by taking out the relay and replacing wire...as in this video

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NpcMycHDvk&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

can anyone take a look at the guts of mine to see if it is legit or a fraud that needs a mod...
this is going into a panel with SSR etc.

2014-06-07 22.37.42.jpg


2014-06-07 22.36.50.jpg


2014-06-07 22.37.17.jpg
 

mattd2

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You have a version with SSR output. So you don't need any mods. Just connect an SSR

.
Agree, just for future reference I thought the problem wasn't the actual controllers having incorrect internals but it was the ebay sellers were misleading in the listings or sending the relay models instead of the SSR model.
 

v12nut

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Hi All,
I need a little help with this PID I bought,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REX-C100-Du...165?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ada02eead

anyhow needless to say the unit is not what it claims to be! surprise surprise!

Can anyone help identify this PID? there is only 1 relay on board as in the pic, when I hook it up to power the unit lights up ok and a few secs later the relay clicks but no power at the 'out' terminals, I thought it would be a simple case of doing the SSR mod on it but it looks so different to all the others I have seen. any pointers would be really appreciated.
cheers

SAM_1284.JPG


SAM_1281.JPG


SAM_1283.JPG


SAM_1282.JPG
 

betadave

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The way I dealt with the SSR issue with my cheap controller was to locate the power to the relay. It happened to be 5 volts and that was enough to run an SSR. I simply soldered a wire to the positive line to the relay and one to another ground point and brought the wires out the back. The relay could be used to switch a 5 volt supply if you want but that seemed pointless once you have the unit open. So, if the unit is responding to temperature, put the thermocouple in a cold spot where the relay should not be hot and check the terminals. Move the thermocouple to a hot water spot so the unit turns on and check the voltages. The one that changed from 0 to 5 is the one you want.

BetaDave
 

v12nut

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Hi,
OK, I powered the pid up and found a switched 14v supply to the relay, no 5v that I could find.
Removed the relay and jumped the supply to the terminals, I now have 14v to the SSR which is within range so I think I am good to go!
cheers
 

augiedoggy

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I would like to use the Thermoworks Pro-Series Needle Probe with the Rex c-100 PID. The manual says that the device uses a thermistor. Does anybody know the settings for the PID that will make it work with this probe?
thanks!
Unfortunately that doesnt really narrow anything down to tell us what type of probe it is... You could put the probe in some ice water and try different probe type settings till it reads right.
 

mattd2

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Unfortunately that doesnt really narrow anything down to tell us what type of probe it is... You could put the probe in some ice water and try different probe type settings till it reads right.
If it is a thermistor probe it will not work - from the REX manual the only probe input types are thermocouples or RTD.
 

robberbaron

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For all you people that are hooking up SSRs to mechanical relay inputs, beware you are likely to burn your house down if you do not lower the cycle time to below a second. Mechanical relays are driven in long intervals to reduce mechanical wear from switching back and forth. SSRs like quick switching, but long intervals can cause expansion and contraction that can cause the parts to fail or even decouple from heat sinks or from the heat dissipating casing. This could cause a meltdown:

 
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robberbaron

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also, speaking of fire hazards, this guys does a teardown and analysis of those 25 amp SSRs they sell super cheap and makes a pretty good argument that they are probably no good over 10 amps:

 
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augiedoggy

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also, speaking of fire hazards, this guys does a teardown and analysis of those 25 amp SSRs they sell super cheap and makes a pretty good argument that they are probably no good over 10 amps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxEhxjvifyY
Yeah this is true and its has been covered in a few threads including one recently started by alphaomega... Only its 12 amps from what Ive seen. these are only the fotek knockoffs and possibly other brands that use the same generic manufacturer like POSSIBLY the mypin and inkbird as well as the white ones ebrew supply used to sell but appears to be discontinuing. there are many other brands and designs of SSRs that do not have these issues. These white ssrs are manufactuered for about one dollar... bottom of the barrel when it comes to an SSR relay.

If the ssr came bundled with the rex pid like mine did theres a very good chance its one of these 12A models though.


As far as long cycle times being a fire hazard?

I have been servicing equipment that uses SSR's to cycle heating elements for fairly long periods of time to maintain constant temps and I have never seen an issue from it in the 20 years Ive been doing it.
 

morzh

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Been a while since that thread had opened...

Wanted to share: on eBay there sometimes are the real ones, not counterfeits being sold.
About a month ago while dealing with a real one at work bought directly from RKC Instruments (for cooling prj) I decided to see if they are sold (used obviously) for reasonable money on the Bay.
They are too!

I bought a heating (reversed action) CB100 used in excellent shape (without the mounting bracket) for the best offer of $22 plus $3 shipping = $25.
I played with it....well, real thing feels good! For starters it is in full agreement with the manual and its list of parameters. Which is more than one needs :)

Considering the rigmarole I went through with the previous one.....so, look for a real used PID, haggle a bit....they are out there.

Cheers!

Mike.
 

augiedoggy

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Been a while since that thread had opened...

Wanted to share: on eBay there sometimes are the real ones, not counterfeits being sold.
About a month ago while dealing with a real one at work bought directly from RKC Instruments (for cooling prj) I decided to see if they are sold (used obviously) for reasonable money on the Bay.
They are too!

I bought a heating (reversed action) CB100 used in excellent shape (without the mounting bracket) for the best offer of $22 plus $3 shipping = $25.
I played with it....well, real thing feels good! For starters it is in full agreement with the manual and its list of parameters. Which is more than one needs :)

Considering the rigmarole I went through with the previous one.....so, look for a real used PID, haggle a bit....they are out there.

Cheers!

Mike.
I guess Im missing the point but for $22 you can get the non counterfeit mypin ta4 New which is vastly superior in function and for about $25 you can get the T4d which has the manual pwm mode for controlling the boil as well as fuzzy logic so why buy a limited Celsius only pid which has limited probe connectivity used for the same money?
 

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