REX-C100 PID (cheapest PID on ebay)

HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

fermentednonsense

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
417
Reaction score
21
Do you even need an SSR if you're using the Rex-C100 for a keezer? or is this not even possible?
 

thargrav

Banned
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
817
Reaction score
41
Location
Huntsville
The REX C100 controller is available with SSR control or relay contacts but for some reason everything I see for sale on eBay has relay contacts.

If yours has relay contacts, you need to slip off the cover and look at the relay - the current and voltage rating will be marked on the relay housing and there will likely be a DC and a AC rating. If it's at least 5 amps @ 120 VAC then you can wire your keezer through the relay.
 

XploD

New Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hi!

I got REX C-100 from eBay and I removed it's internal relay to get SSR outputs, it works like a charm.

But I don't know how to set it up. I don't have ANY knowledge about PIDs and english instructions didn't help me neither. I want it to work like a temperature controler. For example, if I set the temperature on 60c, it should turn on the output if the temperature falls under 60c.

I tried it without any adjusting but it's acting very weird. I turned it on and set the temperature on 60c, the outputs were opened untill I heated the termocouple with a lighter on 60c and then it turned off the output. Great! Then I let it cool down but it turned on the outputs on 45c?? I repeated the process, and now it turned on the outputs after the temperature had fallen on 55c?? Furthermore, the output was not on all the time. While the temperature was falling, it was turning on and off its output for random reason. I can't figure out how this thing works but sure it doesn't work not even close as I need.

If somebody can help me with adjusting, please tell me here or I can give you my e-mail/skype.

Thanks a lot!
 

thargrav

Banned
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
817
Reaction score
41
Location
Huntsville
These are set-up in heat mode by default. The instruction sheet has a set of programming instructions that you step through.

As far as the wild swings are concerned - these are normal until the PID "learns" what's needed to maintain your temperature. And the swings won't be so wild in your keezer.
 

XploD

New Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Thank you! So I don't have to adjust anything? I hope there is a reset to factory settings because my uncle and I were playing with settings and probably messed up something.

But we were using it just to try, "in air", by heating the thermocouple with cigarette lighter. I think my uncle will use it to control water temperature in home heating system (probably in bolier, I have to ask him). But before integrating it we have to be sure that everything is set up correctly.

As I said, I have these instructions: http://www.fmfranklin.com.au/products/data/rkc/c100inst.pdf but I don't know what these terms mean. So this instructions are not helping me at all. I was looking more for a step-by-step tutorial; which things do I have to change, and with which values? Why is my device acting such weird?
 

9am53

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
83
Reaction score
0
Location
kingston
I got a pair of Rex-c100s on ebay with a thermocouple and SSR, and it indeed is the SSR output (I would say obviously, but it's from China afterall so nothing can be assumed) I powered them both up to see if they worked, and they did, BUT one was reading my house te4mp correctly, and the other read it 5 degrees too high. Is there anyway to recalibrate these? The instructions they send you are as bad as I have ever seen.

Thanks
 
OP
Walker

Walker

I use secondaries. :p
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
10,982
Reaction score
110
Location
Cary
I got a pair of Rex-c100s on ebay with a thermocouple and SSR, and it indeed is the SSR output (I would say obviously, but it's from China afterall so nothing can be assumed) I powered them both up to see if they worked, and they did, BUT one was reading my house te4mp correctly, and the other read it 5 degrees too high. Is there anyway to recalibrate these? The instructions they send you are as bad as I have ever seen.

Thanks
Yeah, there is a way to calibrate them. I have a manual around here somewhere that is my personal translation of the garbage that came with the one my friend bought.

I'll see if I can find it.

In short, there is one setting that you can use to tell the probe error. Set that parameter and it will read correctly.
 
OP
Walker

Walker

I use secondaries. :p
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
10,982
Reaction score
110
Location
Cary
I can't find my translation of the thing, but looking at the 3 horrible versions I had dug up online back when I was messing with this thing, I think it *might* be the setting labeled "Sc".
 

9am53

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
83
Reaction score
0
Location
kingston
Thanks. I played around with my PID's and I think I may have jsut gotten a bad reading on the first day. The 2 seem to both be reading the same, and correct value. I will keep the Sc in mind for later though. THanks.
 

ferari12

Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
haifa
Reverse the thermocouple connections. You probably messed up the + and - leads.
 

cgherrington3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
70
Reaction score
9
Location
West Palm Beach
Nope, when I switch them I get the error code. It reads room temp correctly.

Oh well, just did a buy it now on the bay for another one. $12.49 shipped.
 

cgherrington3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
70
Reaction score
9
Location
West Palm Beach
you guys were right I had it backwards, but.... when wired correctly I get "oooo" for PV

New PID came in. Got the same result. Thinking bad thermocouple.

Ordered new thermocouples. One is 0-600C and one is 0-400C. Is that a major issue?

I'm only going to use it for strike temp, so I can just set the SC to match strike temp and call it a day. Right?

I have a 555 for boil control. That works.

If the thermocouples don't work, I'm throwing in the towel.
 

mattd2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
3,816
Reaction score
334
Location
Papamoa
you guys were right I had it backwards, but.... when wired correctly I get "oooo" for PV

New PID came in. Got the same result. Thinking bad thermocouple.

Ordered new thermocouples. One is 0-600C and one is 0-400C. Is that a major issue?

I'm only going to use it for strike temp, so I can just set the SC to match strike temp and call it a day. Right?

I have a 555 for boil control. That works.

If the thermocouples don't work, I'm throwing in the towel.
What type of sensor do you have - make sure you have the controller set up for the correct type of input. oooo indicates a overscale value so I could be that the unit is not set up for the correct probe. Reading through the manual it looks like you will need to set both the senosr type and the range (well that's what I can make out from the limited info they give)
 

betadave

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
27
Reaction score
3
Location
Lodi
I have no trouble with the REX C100 but the instructions are sometimes confusing. My unit appears to only be able to use the K type thermocouple. When I look at eBay, I see labels that specify K but the downloaded manual suggests the usual types are OK and that you have to set the type is the unit. It may be that your unit only runs on K and that you don't have that. Check what you bought, check the controller to see if you can select the type you bought and maybe that can resolve things. I am always uncertain about what the Chinese cheap stuff really is. The price is so low that I expect to find it does not work exactly as advertised but that it will work. There is probably some huge market that makes chips that they exploit and some large use of thermocouples they exploit. We get the bargains but the stuff may take some extra effort to use.
 

betadave

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
27
Reaction score
3
Location
Lodi
You need to know the type of thermocouple, not the temperature range. If they specify 0-600 it is likely to mean that the quality of the wire will be such that the voltage will be appropriate over that temperature range. The controller will have a selection of what type of thermocouple you are using and that will tell the controller what the voltage should be so the readout is correct. My experience is that the REX is built for the K only (from what I own) but there is a manual on line that tells how to set the controller to others. If you have the programmable version, download and read the manual and follow the instructions. If that does not seem to be the case, assume it is a K.

The programming is done with the set button and the appropriate arrows. Only the manual can tell you what the display should have. You will probably also want to run the autotune to set the proportional, integral and derivative settings as it will drive almost anybody nuts to do it manually.
 

cgherrington3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
70
Reaction score
9
Location
West Palm Beach
Both the thermocouples worked :)

Not too thrilled with the PID action until I tossed my Harbor Freight Wort Chiller Pump (HFWCP) in the keggle to move the water around.

Cheers!
 

varocketry

Banned
Joined
Apr 24, 2013
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Location
Detroit
I read posts that advise use of a FUSE or protection in the element line and would appreciate some KNOWLEDGEABLE PERSON's counsel on the proper FUSE to buy. I've been trying to research to know exactly what I need.

I have the <chinese> RKC REX C100 PID discussed in this thread and a 40amp SSR to control a 5500w 240vac heater element.

This diagram from the AUBERINS.com site is roughly what I'm trying to build, it shows a fuse on one of the 240vac leads to the SSR from the contactor.



http://www.sutton.org/images/auber-PID-contactor-diagram.JPG <larger image>

What type of fuse should this be?

Thanks.

auber-PID-contactor-diagram.jpg
 

betadave

Active Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
27
Reaction score
3
Location
Lodi
I am not sure what you mean by KNOWLEDGEABLE. I will suggest a bit but you can decide if you want to consider what I say as sensible. I am not an electrical engineer. If you need professional advice, you probably need to hire somebody. First, read what Omega has to say about fuses here:

http://www.omega.com/auto/pdf/REF_FuseSizingGuide.pdf

Since you have a resistive load, you will have no issues with startup surges, etc. I would suggest a fast acting fuse. If your current jumps, it would likely mean there is a short to ground or a serious overvoltage condition. You want the system to shut down quickly. You might want to put two fuses in since you have hot leads to both sides of the heating element. If the fuse in the schematic blows, the heater will stop but will still have a voltage of 110 V to ground. It is possible that the heating element would continue running at half power. Since failures occur in unexpected ways, you would have to imagine the consequences of having the voltage remain on.

Fuses with a delay would make sense with something like motors where there might be a high current starting load. You will not have that. The current your system should pull is 22.9 amps if everything is spot on for voltage and power. It would be a good idea to measure the current to know what you really have. I would think something like a 25 or 30 amp fuse would be a good size.

Good luck.
 

varocketry

Banned
Joined
Apr 24, 2013
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Location
Detroit
There is an auction on EBAY for this C100 PID unit, a thermocouple and a SSR.
and the shipping is free.

I fired mine up and it seems to work fine and as expected. :rockin:

I did find out and confirmed in other POSTS that this REX C100 PID displays temperature in degrees Celsius ONLY. It doesn't do Fahrenheit. :(

If you want Fahrenheit, choose another unit.
 

ferari12

Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
haifa
I bought the first unit (C100) about two years ago and it didn't have an SSR. I had to open it up, remove the physical relay and wire the connections closed so it could output to an SSR. It wasn't difficult and I posted detailed instructions with pictures earlier in this thread. It may have changed. I don't have any experience with the C700.
 

mattd2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
3,816
Reaction score
334
Location
Papamoa

RoGrrr

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
What I don't understand is why remove the relay ? I don't know how much drive the SSR requires but why not pick off the +5VDC in the PID and connect it to the N.O. set of contacts so when the PID CALLS FOR SSR enable, there is +5 to drive it.
 

mattd2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
3,816
Reaction score
334
Location
Papamoa
What I don't understand is why remove the relay ? I don't know how much drive the SSR requires but why not pick off the +5VDC in the PID and connect it to the N.O. set of contacts so when the PID CALLS FOR SSR enable, there is +5 to drive it.
Because a mechanical relay is not rated for quick switching and will fail prematurly (I'm sure I calculated the life of the mech relay to still be about 3 years based on the normal 10,000 operations most are rated for!)
 

alien

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
1,234
Reaction score
68
Location
Philadelphia
+1 I removed the relay on my Watlow PID and use the output to drive an SSR. It's the way to go.
 

RoGrrr

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
If you're switching rated current, yes, the relay might fail. 10,000 ops ? I'd say they will operate well beyond that, especially if you're simply switching milliamps. But go ahead and remove it if it makes you feel any better.

Because a mechanical relay is not rated for quick switching and will fail prematurly (I'm sure I calculated the life of the mech relay to still be about 3 years based on the normal 10,000 operations most are rated for!)
 

loucurr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
112
Reaction score
14
Just finished modifying my REX C100 and it works fine. Here is a good video link on how to modify the unit to power the SSR. [ame]http://youtu.be/2NpcMycHDvk[/ame]
 

N2GN2

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
When I turn my PID on and it is cold (-7*C) the PV flashes. The heating element only turns on for a few seconds before turning off permanently. I have to turn the PID off and on a few times for the the PID probe to register a higher temperature before it will stay on by itself. Does anyone have any ideas to fix this issue? I'm not sure what settings to mess with. Thanks!
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,207
Reaction score
2,240
Location
North Tonawanda NY
I have both the rex c100 and a couple my pin pids and hands down the mypin 's are way better and worth the extra $10..... you get manual boil control and Fahrenheit readouts....plus its easier to understand and navigate menus...
The my pin TD4 is better than the TA4 because the TA4 doesn't not have the manual control option.
 

alien

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
1,234
Reaction score
68
Location
Philadelphia
I have both the rex c100 and a couple my pin pids and hands down the mypin 's are way better and worth the extra $10..... you get manual boil control and Fahrenheit readouts....plus its easier to understand and navigate menus...
The my pin TD4 is better than the TA4 because the TA4 doesn't not have the manual control option.
Plus you can actually locate some documentation.
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,207
Reaction score
2,240
Location
North Tonawanda NY
How much is a MyPin TD4? Compared to an Auber?
$25.99 including shipping from eBay.... shipping from NY.... not sure on the auber but I'd bet its around double plus shipping....
I brewed my first batch with my new electric setup yesterday and everything went well except I realized I need a powerful exhaust hood.
 

mattd2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
3,816
Reaction score
334
Location
Papamoa
$25.99 including shipping from eBay.... shipping from NY.... not sure on the auber but I'd bet its around double plus shipping....
I brewed my first batch with my new electric setup yesterday and everything went well except I realized I need a powerful exhaust hood.
Hahaha, I think I read your reply on another thread where you answered my question! And $20 for the TA4 right? Aubers are around the $45 mark.
I use a Sestos PID which have an annoying error that the control period can not be reduced lower than 10 seconds, set at anything less than 10 and it stays at 10 - except if you set it at 0, 1 or 2 it is set at 72 seconds! Not too much of an issue as I have 2x 2kW elements in my kettle so the 10 second control period isn't too noticable with the other ellment 100% on.
 

mattd2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
3,816
Reaction score
334
Location
Papamoa
I've seen them on Amazon for about $35.

Might be cheaper on ebay but you have to look hard to find the model number sometimes.
Yes, Ebay and Asian sellers is a great combo - look hard to find the exact info... find some vague info... buy... wait 3 weeks - 3 months shipping holding breath that all turns out alright... sigh of relief when arrives (only been stung once :D)
 
Top