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Willy

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Over the last year I did well over 40 batches - and improved my efficiency a lot. I began focusing on all grain batches and had much to learn.
But overall - how did the brew day go?

A + = you did every little thing perfectly. Mash temps were spot on. PH, and expected ABV - yes! Perfect!

A- = really great day. Followed all the small steps with military precision. Rock solid. Gonna be great beer. Mission accomplished.

B+ = okay there were some issues - nothing critical, just not by the "book". Some troubles, but did fine. Very good beer expected. Could be excellent.

B- = not a sh*t show by any stretch, but dang - I have much to learn. That's okay, expecting very good beer.

C = not a disaster but dang it - I screwed up. Nothing catastrophic but oh dear. Let's hope that never happens again. Should be good beer. Well shall see.

D = I got about 33% of the Don't Do That thread covered. Stuck mash, overflowing kettle, sprung leaks, rained hard, the dog caught a poisonous snake... I was making a 11g batch and got 6.5 g. out of it. Still made good beer. But dang.

F - had to dump it. Euthanize it. No one should ever taste that. The horror!

Here are my grades for 2024 sample of 40+ brew days.

A+ ...... 0%
A- ....... 25%
B+ ....... 45%
B - = ..... 10%
C = ...... 12.5%
D = ...... 5%
F = ....... 2.5%

So, a great year... Getting better. My goal this year is to get more A's. And get the C brew days below 5%.

Nothing better than a brew day that is as slick as warm butter. Curious to see what other homebrewers think about their brew day performance.
 
Hmmm.
It's interesting to experience the different reasons people brew. I can see your point. Like a scientist doing an absolutely perfect titration or spot-on water analysis. I've always thought of the brewday that, while the result certainly matters, the journey should be quite chilled. Was it Mosher or another beer writer who, on every second page wrote "don't worry, relax, have a homebrew"?
On the other hand, does a musician ever play just to relax? How many duff notes is he/she happy with?

I started reading your post thinking, No! No! Dont make a pleasure into a day's work.
But now you've got me thinking.

... and I hate thinking. It hurts my head. 😂😂😂
 
Hmmm.
It's interesting to experience the different reasons people brew. I can see your point. Like a scientist doing an absolutely perfect titration or spot-on water analysis. I've always thought of the brewday that, while the result certainly matters, the journey should be quite chilled. Was it Mosher or another beer writer who, on every second page wrote "don't worry, relax, have a homebrew"?
On the other hand, does a musician ever play just to relax? How many duff notes is he/she happy with?

I started reading your post thinking, No! No! Dont make a pleasure into a day's work.
But now you've got me thinking.

... and I hate thinking. It hurts my head. 😂😂😂
The rating exercise is merely a game that I enjoy. I don't sweat it. But you bet - I go into every brew day trying it kill it. Put love into it. Also the exercise led me to go over notes, and details. And had to laugh... Yup, a guitar player too. Zero duff notes is the goal.
 
When I'm dialed in by myself it's almost always an A+ or A-. Factor in guests or alcohol and yeah...it's more fun, but mistakes will be made.
 
The rating exercise is merely a game that I enjoy. I don't sweat it. But you bet - I go into every brew day trying it kill it. Put love into it. Also the exercise led me to go over notes, and details. And had to laugh... Yup, a guitar player too. Zero duff notes is the goal.
Haha. And as I write, I'm consulting my notes going back to 2001, to formulate a new recipe for my Pilsner Urquel clone and trying to figure out what went wrong with my current version of NZ pilsner (which is going down the sink) so I guess we're singing from the same hymn book.

But not necessarily in the same key. 😂🗝️😂
 
Haha. And as I write, I'm consulting my notes going back to 2001, to formulate a new recipe for my Pilsner Urquel clone and trying to figure out what went wrong with my current version of NZ pilsner (which is going down the sink) so I guess we're singing from the same hymn book.

But not necessarily in the same key. 😂🗝️😂
More similar than you know. I did 6 batches attempting to perfect the Pilsner Urquell clone. Inch by inch better. Yes, Saaz by the pound. Haha. Reached nirvana too and brewing up some more in the next few days for spring & summer.
 

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    PXL_20250126_184416488.jpg
    2.1 MB
D = I got about 33% of the Don't Do That thread covered. Stuck mash, overflowing kettle, sprung leaks, rained hard, the dog caught a poisonous snake... I was making a 11g batch and got 6.5 g. out of it. Still made good beer. But dang.

I feel like I want to give myself a “D”, just so I have an excuse to use this description. Love it!!

I think if I averaged out all of my brewdays, which doesn’t even hit your 2024 total, it would be a “B”. Ish…probably worse, starting up was pretty rough.
 
B- = not a sh*t show by any stretch, but dang - I have much to learn. That's okay, expecting very good beer.
Being honest. First time doing all grain. Took a few batches to get the system dialed in. Which I still haven't based on some hop schedules that I overlooked....

Still can get a decent lager...that diacetyl is killing me!!!

Overall my ales are good. My current is the The Pliny Elder clone from MB and my abv is showing ~9.8% and still fermenting.

My other issue, I get my pre-boil SG within 1-2 points, but my OG is always WAY higher. As noted by the above line. (1.090 when expected was ~1.070ish). I made a post about this but still can't figure it out. FV volume is always on target.

Can anyone provide over the shoulder coaching?

EDIT: If there were a C+ I might lean that direction.
 
Can anyone provide over the shoulder coaching?
Thats weird. Could you link back to where you posted about this and give recipe details.
I never measure the pre boil gravity, myself, and deliberately brew a couple of litres short so that I can liquor back to the target OG. But that's got nothing to do with it.
I find that most malts give me my calculated OG while some european malts consistently give about 10% less extract and one, Irish malt, always gives about 15% more. But none of this accounts for your discrepancy.
 
Being honest. First time doing all grain. Took a few batches to get the system dialed in. Which I still haven't based on some hop schedules that I overlooked....

Still can get a decent lager...that diacetyl is killing me!!!

Overall my ales are good. My current is the The Pliny Elder clone from MB and my abv is showing ~9.8% and still fermenting.

My other issue, I get my pre-boil SG within 1-2 points, but my OG is always WAY higher. As noted by the above line. (1.090 when expected was ~1.070ish). I made a post about this but still can't figure it out. FV volume is always on target.

Can anyone provide over the shoulder coaching?

EDIT: If there were a C+ I might lean that direction.
Could be
1) brew house efficiency and mash efficiency may be too when calculating recipe.
2) you needed more water
3) you OG measuring device is wonky and your adding too many fermentables

Probably one of those 3
 
I call my brewery FatFinger because I screw something up every brew day. That being said, my first brew day of 2025 was a back-to-back Irish Stout and Citra IPA. I'm giving myself an A++ as both went extremely well, hit all my numbers and the timing was perfect. Only added a little less than 100-minutes to a normal single batch brew day. That extra time was the time to sparge, boil and chill the second batch. Now the grade is never set until the beer is kegged and tasted.
 
Still can get a decent lager...that diacetyl is killing me!!!

Regarding diacetyl, are you cold fermenting and then have a way to raise temp for diacetyl rest? If so, try starting the d-rest earlier. I try to do it when the beer is 80% fermented. For example, a 1.050 beer that is expected to finish at 1.010, needs to ferment out 40 points. 80% of 40 is 32...50-32=18, so start the D rest at 1.018. I think a lot of people tend to raise the temp after fermentation is complete, which is really too late at that point. Also don't rush the beer off the yeast, let the yeast try to clean up after itself.

Option 2 - There is an enzyme called ALDC (Alpha Acetolactate Decarboxylase) that you can add. It helps prevent diacetyl from forming. More Beer sells it, though they were sold out last week. One dropper full for a 5 gallon batch.

Option 3 - Pitch large and ferment BELOW 50, if you ferment cold, like 48F the reaction that creates diacetyl does not form. With this method, you keep it cold the whole time, no raising it. You need to pitch at a rate between 1.5M/ml/degree Plato to 2M/ml/degree Plato for this option. Have used this method now and then, it definitely works, just a slightly longer ferment period.
 
Could be
1) brew house efficiency and mash efficiency may be too when calculating recipe.
2) you needed more water
3) you OG measuring device is wonky and your adding too many fermentables

Probably one of those 3
1. I don't understand what you mean here?
2. I am not sure why when my FV end where it should. Can you expand on this?
3. I have hydrometer and refractometer and they agree.
 
Option 3 - Pitch large and ferment BELOW 50, if you ferment cold, like 48F the reaction that creates diacetyl does not form. With this method, you keep it cold the whole time, no raising it. You need to pitch at a rate between 1.5M/ml/degree Plato to 2M/ml/degree Plato for this option. Have used this method now and then, it definitely works, just a slightly longer ferment period.
This is what I am going to try next. Someone else on this forum said they ferment ~48-49 for 30 days. I have plenty of time so this might be a set and forget. Fingers crossed.
 
1. I don't understand what you mean here?
2. I am not sure why when my FV end where it should. Can you expand on this?
3. I have hydrometer and refractometer and they agree.
When calculating what the OG is going to be in the recipe planning stage, the software needs to know your brew house efficiency and your mash efficiency. Brewhouse efficiency is calculated by measuring losses during the brewing process, such as mashing, lautering, and hop trub. (Usually about 70-76% for most).
And Mash efficiency is the percentage of sugars extracted from malted grains during the mashing process. If you enter too low a number, you will end up with a higher OG every time, so getting those adjustments right will get you dialed in to what you plan (recipe) and what the OG is expected to be.

Getting the water amounts right and how you brew matters a lot. BIAB, dunk sparge, no sparge, etc will change the amount of water you use and when. The goal is to have it match up with the recipe and how you brew
 
When calculating what the OG is going to be in the recipe planning stage, the software needs to know your brew house efficiency and your mash efficiency. Brewhouse efficiency is calculated by measuring losses during the brewing process, such as mashing, lautering, and hop trub. (Usually about 70-76% for most).
And Mash efficiency is the percentage of sugars extracted from malted grains during the mashing process. If you enter too low a number, you will end up with a higher OG every time, so getting those adjustments right will get you dialed in to what you plan (recipe) and what the OG is expected to be.

Getting the water amounts right and how you brew matters a lot. BIAB, dunk sparge, no sparge, etc will change the amount of water you use and when. The goal is to have it match up with the recipe and how you brew
thanks. I'm not up to speed on doing efficiency calculations myself. I rely on the software/app to do that part. I started with a guess on mash efficiency and slowly adjusted as I learned my equipment. On the G40 I am usually around 75-80 depending on the grain bill. Same with water. I let the app tell me, however I think my boiloff is different sometimes. Does weather account for that or the size of the grain bill? I am usually right at 5.5g in the fv with just a tad left in the lines and pump of the G40.
 
thanks. I'm not up to speed on doing efficiency calculations myself. I rely on the software/app to do that part. I started with a guess on mash efficiency and slowly adjusted as I learned my equipment. On the G40 I am usually around 75-80 depending on the grain bill. Same with water. I let the app tell me, however I think my boiloff is different sometimes. Does weather account for that or the size of the grain bill? I am usually right at 5.5g in the fv with just a tad left in the lines and pump of the G40.
You can check your software to see what they have for your brew house and mash efficiency. If they are too low (64% vs 78%) it will tell you to add more grains (fermentables) to meet targets. Play with those numbers in the software until what you measure as your OG matches what the recipe called for. My brew house and mash efficiency are both around 73%.

My software has Grandfather G40 listed at about 74.4% as a starting point.
 
I use the grainfather app for 5.5g batches and Brewfather for 1 gal batches.
I input mash efficiency for both.

Here is an example of what I get out of BF app. First column is expected (I use 77%) second column is what the app calculated after the brew.
Screenshot 2025-01-29 113019.png


Grainfather is about the same. I used 80% mash efficiency on my Sierra Nevada clone and the app calculated
Mash 76% and brewhouse 78%.

On the other hand, my last brew I input 76% mash efficiency and ended up 82% both mash and brewhouse. I don't recall ever having both numbers the same.


Here is what I am doing this Friday. From BF app.
Screenshot 2025-01-29 114145.png

Screenshot 2025-01-29 114201.png


I apologize for having hijacked the thread.
 
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I use the grainfather app for 5.5g batches and Brewfather for 1 gal batches.
I input mash efficiency for both.

Here is an example of what I get out of BF app. First column is expected (I use 77%) second column is what the app calculated after the brew.
View attachment 867903

Grainfather is about the same. I used 80% mash efficiency on my Sierra Nevada clone and the app calculated
Mash 76% and brewhouse 78%.

On the other hand, my last brew I input 76% mash efficiency and ended up 82% both mash and brewhouse. I don't recall ever having both numbers the same.
Those numbers for mash/brew house efficiency look good. So probably not the culprit.

My next guess is water... Sparge, no sparge, water held in grain. Head space, boil off rate... Do you check the work level after boiling? It should match your batch size used in the software
 
Do you check the work level after boiling? It should match your batch size used in the software
Easy to do on the 1 gal since the pot has lines. The G40 is a guess. It has a sight glass and it shows what it shows, but I think it is reasonably close. When I add water, for instance say 5 gallons, the sight glass might show 1/4 to 1/2 g high or low. Never the same with that thing.
 
Easy to do on the 1 gal since the pot has lines. The G40 is a guess. It has a sight glass and it shows what it shows, but I think it is reasonably close. When I add water, for instance say 5 gallons, the sight glass might show 1/4 to 1/2 g high or low. Never the same with that thing.
Well - that's a problem. I am guessing the sight glass isn't seated (it moves up or down just a little, which accounts for the -/+ 0.5 gal readings). See if you can get it to stay still or at a set point, so 5 gal is always 5 gal.
 
It doesn't have much play, I think it is just the way it reads. Sight glass on my chiller does the same. Not exact, but close.
I can only get the initial water correct by blowing air through the recirculating tube. I have done the same after a boil (cooled of course) and I'm usually withing 1/4 gallon. I would rather there be a way to have markings on the inside of the unit.
 
It doesn't have much play, I think it is just the way it reads. Sight glass on my chiller does the same. Not exact, but close.
I can only get the initial water correct by blowing air through the recirculating tube. I have done the same after a boil (cooled of course) and I'm usually withing 1/4 gallon. I would rather there be a way to have markings on the inside of the unit.
You can use a long stick or wooden spoon and create a "ruler" for water level. Add it, measure a gal at a time
 
It doesn't have much play, I think it is just the way it reads. Sight glass on my chiller does the same. Not exact, but close.
I can only get the initial water correct by blowing air through the recirculating tube. I have done the same after a boil (cooled of course) and I'm usually withing 1/4 gallon. I would rather there be a way to have markings on the inside of the unit.
Hammer and punch. Mark the level on the outside of the pot with a Sharpie then punch the same number of distinct dots as gallons. I've got mine marked at 5 and 8.
 
First of all: minuses are made up. See here for proof.

Second: where's the "E" - that makes it a 'solid 5/7' scale, doesn't it? ;)

Third (and answer to the question): I rate my brew days an A according to this description.

Homebrewing is a hobby I do for fun. I do not brew for judges, badges or trophies. If I do not feel like brewing in the morning on which I planned to brew - I do not do it.

There's always room for improvements and learning - that's why I'm here. I try different things and procedures and recipes, because I'm interested in this. If I do not feel like this is the way I wanna proceed - I skip that in the future.
For a few brews I tried to maximizing my output from ~27 to 45 liters by using two kettles (the thermo-pot was my bottle neck for volume so far), and I discovered the 30l lautering vat is the next bottle neck. Two kettles was an interesting process but I turned it down, felt stressfull. Now I'm into high gravity brewing - almost always diluting the wort after cooling with chilled spring water: increasing my output by 20% plus additional cooling.

I wrote about the 'boring Weizen' in the other thread. The brewday was fun, especially trying the maltase procedure (chilling the mash).
That brings me to the questions: how'd be to rate the brewday/result-ratio ?

How about a grid: 0-5 grains for "satisfying brewday" vs 0-5 pints "love the result". No half steps.

0-5 grains:
⚪⚪⚪⚪⚪️ : I hate Mondays. nothing worked out. Worst brew day ever. I think about quitting.
⚪⚪⚪⚪🌾 : done and dusted - but now I'll go to bed with a bag of crisps/chips and pull the blanket over my head. I'll clean up tomorrow.
⚪⚪⚪🌾🌾 : Murphy was my assistant today. I didn't know how I reached the planned stats, but it will probably taste like beer once fermentation is through. I'll update the 'don't do that' thread.
⚪⚪🌾🌾🌾 : solid brewday. No suprises - good or bad.
⚪🌾🌾🌾🌾 : that went well. Everything went exactly like planned, I'm looking forward to the result.
🌾🌾🌾🌾🌾 : awesome!!!1!oneeleven!! I already made some improvements while brewing and I'm full of new idea for the next time. When I sneak into the scrapyards tonight, I can brew with an extended setup tomorrow!!!

0-5 pints:
⚪⚪⚪⚪⚪️ : ugh! One for the sink.
⚪⚪⚪⚪🍺 : let's add some lemonade and at least make it a radler.
⚪⚪⚪🍺🍺 : interesting - but definitely not what I expected.
⚪⚪🍺🍺🍺 : solid beer. I'm fine with it, but I will definitely change it the next time.
⚪🍺🍺🍺🍺 : wow, that's darn good - although I carried up a mountain for 3 1/2 hours now and it's a bit warm - I still enjoy it!
🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺 : holy smoke - I made this!? I'm gonna remove all the labels and won't tell anyone that there is more of it in the fridge.

According to this my 'boring Weizen' would be a:
🌾🌾🌾🌾/🍺🍺🍺
 
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