New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Yakima 728
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Dgallo said:
Sorry, I think I’m confused then. If 0.75lbs of dextrose would be 7% of your grainbill, that means your grainbill is just around 10.5 lbs. If this is a 5 gallon batch, how is this making a triple IPA. I think I may have miss read one of your previous posts
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I don’t think he ever specified the lbs if dextrose, looks like the 0.75 lb was on your recipe?

Dgallo said:
Def has to be a slow pour. Def looks good. If you’ve ever been to Suarez, they slow pour all their beers before serving it to you. Def the best commercial foam I’ve seen
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I figured, but always good to confirm. I can do this with my single infusion beers as well (at least I think I can, going to confirm that tonight lol).
 
couchsending said:
Step mashing is key.. and proper cellaring techniques.. grain bill is probably the third most important.. trying to think if I’ve ever read anything about pH when it comes to head. I can’t think of anything. Oh and properly cleaned glassware!

The 160-162 step is the step that’s optimum for producing the proteins that will aid in head retention. It can also help in palate fullness. It’s also the optimum temp for Alpha.

I will generally step most beers at 145/162/170. Sometimes I’ll change the temps a few degrees or change the amount of time at the lowest step.

There is an interesting article with KC Bier in the latest CB&B where they talk about adding a 126 step to a beer which they did point out with today’s malts shouldn’t be needed but it did result in the best head on any beer they’ve ever made.... Tried it in a Helles earlier this week.

The malt I’ve found to make the biggest difference in head retention is Chit malt. I don’t think Carafoam really does much.. wheat is somewhere in between.

What goes on in the fermenter is also key. Keeping as much trub out of the fermenter as possible. Keeping fermentation under control. Getting the yeast out of the beer or the beer off the yeast as soon as possible. Conditioning times/temps and how you chose to get there. These all have an impact on foam.
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  • I agree with step mashing impact on foam - in fact it was @couchsending that opened my eyes to that technique about a year & half ago.
  • Clean glassware - yep that too
  • Clear wort to fermenter - yep that too, but going to extreme measures to eliminate trub... meh. Some is good for the yeast. I let about a pint go through - no appreciable difference in foam
  • Chit malt, flaked barley, carahell - all are comparable in my experience to enhancing foam, but do not appear to be "additive" or "synergistic" in my experience. Use either and get a substantial improvement but using all three at same time does not make the foam any better - you will hit a threshold. (All my recipes have one or the other in them now)
  • Proper pressure in beer & proper draft line length
  • Getting the beer of the yeast - I humbly disagree with this notion. I have been brewing for almost five years and have never pulled beer off the yeast / dropped the yeast cake. By doing ALL of the above however, I can make every IPA/Pilsner I brew look like the slow pour head that @couchsending posted above (looks awesome BTW).

  • Fermentation control - I have done this from day one and have never tested, so I cannot speak to this
  • Yeast selection - absolutely makes a difference but it is subtle in my experience. I have noticed differences in bubble size / lacing depending on the yeast.
  • Polyphenols - possibly, not enough science here

The one anecdotal point I will share is if you want to brew a NEIPA that has the best foam in a NEIPA you have ever seen - brew a NEIPA using all of the above. Then use ALL Galaxy in a 1.25oz/gal dryhop (yes that much) and Kveiking yeast from Imperial Organic. The foam literally feels like shaving cream and is 2-3fingers after 15-20mins in the glass
 
ttuato said:
Getting the beer of the yeast - I humbly disagree with this notion. I have been brewing for almost five years and have never pulled beer off the yeast / dropped the yeast cake. By doing ALL of the above however, I can make every IPA/Pilsner I brew look like the slow pour head that @couchsending posted above (looks awesome BTW).
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Going to humbly disagree with this too. I routinely leave my beers for a minimum 3-4, but more often 6, weeks in primary on the yeast and that does not affect head retention in a negative way, at least for me. But I have no real terms of comparison here, other than anectodal.

I had once a Doppelbock showing a bit less head retention compared to my usual, that I left for ca. 2.5 months in primary on the yeast. But that beer was also borderline undercarbed, so it's difficult to tell whether it was the long time on the yeast, or the lower carbonation (probably the second).

Does bottle conditioning (or generally, natural carbonation) also affect foam/head retention?
I am still a bottler and was wondering now about that aspect, too.
 
Dgallo said:
Sorry, I think I’m confused then. If 0.75lbs of dextrose would be 7% of your grainbill, that means your grainbill is just around 10.5 lbs. If this is a 5 gallon batch, how is this making a triple IPA. I think I may have miss read one of your previous posts
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You might be mixing me up with another poster, you do help a lot of people on here. I just mentioned that the amount of dextrose was 7% of the grain bill, not the actual amounts of it. To get me a TIPA of 11.4% my grain bill is 23.32lbs. 7.5% is dextrose @ 1.74lbs. I think I might scale this back to around the 3-4% mark.
 
aaronm13 said:
You might be mixing me up with another poster, you do help a lot of people on here. I just mentioned that the amount of dextrose was 7% of the grain bill, not the actual amounts of it. To get me a TIPA of 11.4% my grain bill is 23.32lbs. 7.5% is dextrose @ 1.74lbs. I think I might scale this back to around the 3-4% mark.
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My bad brother. I probably wouldn’t go over a lb personally but yours is also a whole percent higher than mine was so it might help it’s drinkability
 
ttuato said:
The one anecdotal point I will share is if you want to brew a NEIPA that has the best foam in a NEIPA you have ever seen - brew a NEIPA using all of the above. Then use ALL Galaxy in a 1.25oz/gal dryhop (yes that much) and Kveiking yeast from Imperial Organic. The foam literally feels like shaving cream and is 2-3fingers after 15-20mins in the glass
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My experience agrees with this, 7oz in 4 gallons definitely meets this threshold. see post #11339
 
Dgallo said:
My bad brother. I probably wouldn’t go over a lb personally but yours is also a whole percent higher than mine was so it might help it’s drinkability
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I'm going to dial it back alright, 7% does seem a bit on the high side. Thanks for all your help on this. Doing an 8% one this weekend with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so I'll experiment with a bit of dextrose on this one to see how it goes.
 
Agree with spunding too!

Cheers!
8CB27200-1382-4636-9075-E7186B177428.jpeg
 
marchuk96 said:
How was the mecca grade? Did you notice a difference in quality over plain old pilsner malt?
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Would need a real side by side to be for sure, but I’ve enjoyed all the beers I’ve used it in (Pelton, Lamonta, Shaniko and have Vanora but haven’t used yet). My palate is terrible, so can’t be much more helpful, sorry.
 
BeerFst said:
Yea to the corn sugar sorta to the rest. It doesn’t really reduce fg but stops it from being higher. I think it’s better stated as increasing abv without adding fg, whereas adding more grain to do the same increase to og would also increase your fg.

the only way to consider it would decrease fg, is by targeting a certain og, say 1.060. If you did all grain to get there it would likely have a higher fg than if you replace a portion of that grain with dextrose
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I see that now. If I start the equation by targeting a specific OG, say 1.095 in this case, adding sugar would lower the grain bill and result in a lower FG. If I start the equation by targeting a specific FG adding sugar allows me to get there with less grain.
 
This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?
 
InspectorJon said:
This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?
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Trillium has a Cutting Tiles series of NEIPAS that use raw wild flower honey in them and they are great. Maple I personally wouldn’t try but there are options like lactose too if that’s what you’re going for
 
Planning my next brew and although I loved my previous citra/I7/strata, Ive decided to brighten it up a little more on the dry hop side of things. Any thoughts on this schedule? Ive been keeping total hop dosage at 12.5oz but have since moved from a balanced hot/cold side to more hops on the cold side. Target IBUs is 40.

FWH: Warrior 0.50oz
5min boil: 0.25 each of citra/idaho7/strata
Whirlpool: 45min - 0.50oz each citra/I7/strata
30min - 0.50oz each citra/I7/strata
15min - 0.25oz each citra/I7/strata
Dry Hop: 3days - 1.5oz Citra, 1.25oz strata, 1.0oz Azacca
2days - 1.5oz Citra, 1.25oz strata, 1.0oz Azacca

EDIT: Whirlpool Ive been doing at 150degrees for all additions.
 
Last edited:
isomerization said:
Would need a real side by side to be for sure, but I’ve enjoyed all the beers I’ve used it in (Pelton, Lamonta, Shaniko and have Vanora but haven’t used yet). My palate is terrible, so can’t be much more helpful, sorry.
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I used the mecca opal 22 malt for a brown ale and while this was my first brown ale I felt like the malt from them actually lived up to the description...even at only 1 lb of the grain bill...I am planning on trying the pale ale malt and pilsner malt from them in some n/e's to see how they do and if it makes a noticeable difference...i know malt profile is not what you typically go for in a new england but if it lays a better platform/building block than traditional brands than why not right? I have read good things so was just trying to get some more feedback
 
this is very subjective. i don't like honey in beer at all. maple takes a ton to give much flavor and doesn't play well with hops imho. i've come to the conlusion that simple sugars should be either sucrose or dextrose and should be used to thin out the malt flavor if that effect is desired or don't use it if not.

InspectorJon said:
This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?
Click to expand...
 
lookin good! what kettle hops do you use? i've started doing Pils and IPLs with firm bittering (40-50 IBus calculated), lots of sulfate (like 100-150 ppm), w-34/70 yeast and always lots of Ekuanot in the kettle and/or in the dry hop. Comes out great every time! dry, crisp, hoppy, malty. very nice change of pace!

isomerization said:
NZ Pils
No dry hop
Single infusion (148 F)
3% wheat malt, rest base (all mecca grade)

Brewed 2 months ago to the day.

View attachment 670529
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It depends on the beer but the yeast I use doesn’t like to attenuate. For a 6.5% beer I’ll do

145- 45 or 60 (depending)
154- 15
162 - 20
Mashout for 10

plus a bit of dextrose

Not sure if I really need the 154 I just do it.

Personally I don’t like beers other than porters/stouts to finish much higher than 1.014 max 1.016. There’s better ways to achieve mouthfeel that doesn’t affect drink ability IMHO.
 
InspectorJon said:
This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?
Click to expand...
01C6F590-80BE-4E27-A72A-C6DE19CB4165.jpeg
This would be considered a braggot, I think. 10 lbs Rahr Two Row and 7 lbs of Honey and 20 oz of hops with 6 gallons in the fermenter. Wound up being around 10%. I am usually forced to take about a half gallon of honey from my in laws. I wouldn’t pay the retail price for that much honey, but with it being free, I make high gravity experiments with it.
 
This was my "Hazy Aussie" - doing my best to support their hop market after all the fires - I'm so selfless I know, all the proceeds of this beer went right into the koala's pockets :/

Water: Ca 90, Cl 160, So4 130

10 lb 2-row
1.5 lb white wheat
1 lb malted oats

mashed at 152

0.5 oz Idaho7 30 mins
WP with 6oz of Idaho7 / Columbus / Galaxy
DH with 4 oz Galaxy and 2 oz Vic Secret

LAIII at 68 ramped to 72. Crashed on Day 7 to 40F, DH'd at 60F in keg on day 9, transfer to keg on day 11.

First pic is 2 weeks in the keg - has that dense haze I seem to get with malted oats. no hop burn, some fresh green hop aroma and pretty pronounced not-yet-ripe pineapple.
2nd pic after 8 weeks in the keg - has more of that glowing haze i like the look of. Still tasted and smelled fantastic, I was really happy with how well this held up.
0DD75FA8-D2DA-4A1A-8E14-1FC2D5AB7CB0.JPG 2BCC817E-04FF-4B65-9624-CF9385B1D82A.JPG
 
I use the Fermonster and have made my lid with the proper ball lock connections to pressure transfer with the floating dip tube. When I transfer from the fermonster to my keg, I see A LOT of tiny bubbles in the line. My transfer is very slow, 30 minutes to get 5 gallons in the keg. I also have to run about 8 psi, maybe a bit more. I think the hops may be slowing the transfer thru the ball lock. My hoses are all sealed with clamps and very tight, so I cannot see air getting in, but I could be wrong. Are these tiny bubbles C02? Anyone else have a lot of tiny bubbles in there beer line as they pressure transfer? Also how long does it take to transfer 5 gallons?
 
I was gonna ask what people are doing to up the ABV on these (Say, 8% range-ish) without effecting color too much? I was thinking of using regular table sugar or dextrose but didn't want to have a lower final gravity. I usually aim for 1.017-1.020.
 
Genuine said:
I was gonna ask what people are doing to up the ABV on these (Say, 8% range-ish) without effecting color too much? I was thinking of using regular table sugar or dextrose but didn't want to have a lower final gravity. I usually aim for 1.017-1.020.
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More malt...using more of a pale malt isn't going to make it darker
 
So, thoughts on Warm vs Cold dry hopping?

For my latest brew, I followed the advice from the recent Janish article and dry hopped cold for 3 days at about 50 degrees. (It was my second dry hop -- the first was at fermentation temps at 3.5 days with a few points left.)

The result is a smooth drinking NEIPA with very little "hop bite" or astringency. HOWEVER, it is also less flavorful/juicy than the ones I brewed that DID have some hop bite/astringency - and were dry hopped at 60 or above.

So how to thread the needle? My guess is that for my system, there is a perfect temperature for that last dry hop. I believe it's below fermentation temp, but probably closer to 60 degrees than 50. Maybe the perfect temp is the one Scott suggested, 58 degrees?

What seems to work best for you?

http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/
 
SRJHops said:
So, thoughts on Warm vs Cold dry hopping?

For my latest brew, I followed the advice from the recent Janish article and dry hopped cold for 3 days at about 50 degrees. (It was my second dry hop -- the first was at fermentation temps at 3.5 days with a few points left.)

The result is a smooth drinking NEIPA with very little "hop bite" or astringency. HOWEVER, it is also less flavorful/juicy than the ones I brewed that DID have some hop bite/astringency - and were dry hopped at 60 or above.

So how to thread the needle? My guess is that for my system, there is a perfect temperature for that last dry hop. I believe it's below fermentation temp, but probably closer to 60 degrees than 50. Maybe the perfect temp is the one Scott suggested, 58 degrees?

What seems to work best for you?

http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/
Click to expand...
Warm has always worked better for me for extraction and flavor/aroma. Eliminating fermentation dry hopping and getting the most yeast out of suspension before hand has greatly reduced the hopburn. It’s extremely rare that I get it anymore after doing these two things
 
Dgallo said:
Warm has always worked better for me for extraction and flavor/aroma. Eliminating fermentation dry hopping and getting the most yeast out of suspension before hand has greatly reduced the hopburn. It’s extremely rare that I get it anymore after doing these two things
Click to expand...
So do you soft crash to 58-60 to drop the yeast, then let it warm back up to room temperature before dry hopping?

I’ve done this with pretty good success, just curious if this is also how you do it.
 
HopsAreGood said:
So do you soft crash to 58-60 to drop the yeast, then let it warm back up to room temperature before dry hopping?

I’ve done this with pretty good success, just curious if this is also how you do it.
Click to expand...
I crash lower, I go down to 40ish just because it’s easier for me. Then yeah I’ll let it warm back up to 68-70 to dryhop
 

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