New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Noob_Brewer]

No starter is really need. I literally use a tablespoon of slurry from pouch for a 5gallon batch and it hits final gravity less than 3 days. The growth stage is when esters are produced. So will a starter it won’t need to multiple much at all

Thanks! Do you normally soft crash immediately after FG without worry of yeast cleanup with this yeast? From what I’ve read waiting a couple days for yeast cleanup isn’t necessary due to it cleaning up off flavors quickly

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks! Do you normally soft crash immediately after FG without worry of yeast cleanup with this yeast? From what I’ve read waiting a couple days for yeast cleanup isn’t necessary due to it cleaning up off flavors quickly

I don’t soft crash with kviek personally. It flocs really well for me naturally. It also seems to clean its self up in less than a day if it needs to at all.

My only negative I have with it is Its ester profile can take over the flavor profile quite a bit and can even outshine the hops.

 

[BarryBrews]

You really need to disperse the extract. Whirlpool wont cut it. Better to use a pump to really beat it into the wort- think emulsify. Try and dose it right into the pump during whirlpool. A drill might work, but id be a bit skeptical due to fact it’ll cling to paddle, kettle walls, etc.

 

[BarryBrews]

Try dissolving the extract in some vodka or rum before adding to reach the maximum solubility in your wort. Also keep in mind that adding salts to your brewing water increases the ionic strength which works against oil solubility. For NEIPA's, I find calcium at around 50 ppm with a 2:1 Cl:SO4 to taste the best. I always start with RO water and add CaCl2 and CaSO4 brewing salts as needed for whatever style I'm brewing, keeping the total Ca to around 50 ppm.

 

[BarryBrews]

So Im brewing my first NEIPA this friday with Voss Kviek. Going simcoe/amarillo route on the hops in hops of highlighting the "orange" character from amarillo along with the Voss (from what Ive read, this character shines). Anyways, since its first time using this yeast I have a couple Qs:

1) Im planning on pitching the yeast starter with the wort at 90 degrees, the starter will certainly be cooler at ~64-68 degrees ambient temp. I crash my starters the day before and let them warm up to ambient on brew day. Is this temp differential between the wort and yeast actually ok to the yeast? I know the kvieks like it warm, but this is just different from what Im used to doing i.e. pitching yeast starter at ambient temp into wort that is also about 68degrees.

2) I plan on letting this ferment in the 90s and from what I've read on here, the yeast could be completely done in ~72hrs and all cleaned up (no off-flavors) as well. I will have enough wort to take one hydro sample to check on FG. But will I really not get any off-flavors if I simply soft crash the yeast as soon as I think the yeast are done fermenting in ~3-5days? I typically give the yeast 2-3days at 70-72 after I take the hydro sample (around day 6-7) but since this is first time using Voss Kviek, Would appreciate any recommendations/comments on this strain.

Have not tried the Voss Kveik yeast YET, but the Kveiking, Loki, Hornindal, Citrus and Tropical Kveik yeasts have changed my whole brewing experience. Brew day to the first delicious glass of NEIPA is 28 days! This means less equipment and more time for those other beers that really need the extra maturation time. Fermenting at 90 F seemed crazy at first, but wow! Besides a low initial hops addition all my hops are whirlpooled for 20 mins @ 170 F and then allowed to settle out overnight in the boil kettle at ~70 F. Clear wort goes into the fermentors which makes these very recyclable Kveik yeasts simple to harvest and by not dry hopping eliminates the oxidation potential in my beers. My starters and wort temperatures are the same as you've mentioned above and I haven't had any problems.

You know that urban legend ingredient McDonald's adds that kids find irresistible? Well I have this funny feeling the Kveik yeast has the same type thing going on, but for adult beer drinkers. Proof, my last 3 brew days were Kveik NEIPA's and that's all I want to drink anymore! Frightfully I also see my family and friends heading down that same road..LOL. Really, this is good stuff.

 

[BarryBrews]

No starter is really need. I literally use a tablespoon of slurry from pouch for a 5gallon batch and it hits final gravity less than 3 days. The growth stage is when esters are produced. So will a starter it won’t need to multiple much at all

I agree about under pitching for additional ester formation, but a starter is prudent when using harvested yeast. And along the same line don't forget the importance of oxygen levels on yeast reproduction. I shoot for about 70% the recommended yeast count when under pitching. Does that sound right to you?

 

[SRJHops]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here on the forum. I am extremely new to brewing. I’ve only made about 10 batches. I have the Anvil Foundry 2.5 gallon set up and ordered some ingredients hoping to make a good neipa. Any feedback would be great, thanks!

5lbs — 2-Row
1lb — Flaked Oats
1lb — Oat Malt

yeast: London Ale III 1318

2oz Citra - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Simcoe - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Galaxy - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)

day 3
1.5oz - galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

day 7
1.5oz - Galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

Sure looks good to me. A few thoughts for consideration, perhaps for the next brew:

I am not sure what your target ABV calculates to, but the style seems to work pretty well around 7% or higher.

You might also consider a lower temp steep for the 2nd or 3rd whirlpool -- lots of folks on this forum are going lower, into the 50's.

Citra is good for dry hopping too, so if there's any way to get a bit in there it could be good. Maybe swap out some Galaxy?

I personally like to use a little wheat, as well as some carafoam and flaked barley, to help with head retention. I have had way too many NEIPA's with NO head retention...

Happy brewing and please let us know how it turns out!

 

[Dgallo]

I agree about under pitching for additional ester formation, but a starter is prudent when using harvested yeast. And along the same line don't forget the importance of oxygen levels on yeast reproduction. I shoot for about 70% the recommended yeast count when under pitching. Does that sound right to you?

For kviek I don’t do a starter regardless. You can literally dry Hornindal out and use it years later at 1gram per 5 gallons, it really is an incredible in that sense. I pitch kviek at much less of a rate. I believe there are roughly 5.5 tablespoons of slurry in a 091 pack that has 100 billion cells if fresh. So I’m probably only pitching 180-200 million cells. So it drastically under pitched. Typical yeast strains I pitch at aroun .5million cell/ milliliter/*p

Now when it come to oxygenating, I don’t do anything more with any yeast I use except for transferring it hard allowing slashing when racking.

 

[echoALEia]

Random yeast experiment tonight. Haven’t used dry yeast in a looooong time.

1.066
GW Pure Idaho Pils
10% Carafoam
2% Honey
1% Caraaroma
145/154/162/170

Touch of Brewers Crystals to up OG

kCL in kettle.

Magnum @ 60
Nugget @ 20
Nelson @ 5
Citra/Nugget WP
Idaho 7 leaf in Hopback
DH will be once at .5p from Terminal
- Nelson/Citra/Nugget
- hoping to spund as well

So4/S-33/K-97

pitch at 72, ferment at 62 for two days then let free rise.

Any updates on this? Curious to see what you found

 

[couchsending]

It’s fine. Not quite carbonated yet. There are some additional fruity esters but nothing that’s drastically different.

I pulled as much yeast as I could before dry hopping (which was a lot) but I didn’t soft cool to try to drop more yeast. I just added hops right before terminal and left it there at 68 and spunded. Still waiting until it ages a bit longer to pass judgment but so far it definitely lacks the impact that my beers have when I dry hop after a soft crash. Mouthfeel is nuts from the natural carbonation. Didn’t hit full carb levels but probably got to 2ish volumes.

I repitched the yeast a few days ago into a HBC586/Citra combo beer. I’m going to soft crash this one before DH to see how they compare.

On another note I’ve been doing some single hop beers as of late but trying to use all available variations of the same hop. Have an Idaho 7 variant that’s pretty mind blowing. One lot of 2019 pellets in the kettle, I7 hop hash in the WP, 2019 I7 leaf in the Hopback, then dry hop with two different lots of 2019 pellets. Wish I7 cryo was available to homebrewers, woulda added some Of that. It is straight candied tangerine. Maybe the craziest aroma I’ve experienced in a while. Tiny bit of black tea in the taste but everything else is just all sorts of orange flavor and aroma. Kinda crazy. The hop hash especially smelled almost like intense orange/tangerine extract. Really intense.

Been really enjoying this process on one hop beers. Definitively adds a lot more intrigue and complexity. Done Citra and Mosaic with pellet, leaf, cryo, and American Noble. Going to do a Simcoe with cryo, pellet, American Noble today as well.

 

[Soursean]

Hey guys, a quick question.
Does anyone here use fermcap or something similar to reduce the amount of krausen?
I ferment in kegs and have limited head space.
Cheers!

 

[tld6008]

Hey guys, a quick question.
Does anyone here use fermcap or something similar to reduce the amount of krausen?
I ferment in kegs and have limited head space.
Cheers!

Yes, see post # 11163

 

[stickyfinger]

I used US-05 for fun on a recent batch of IPA after many many months away from using it. Wow! It is incredibly bland! If you want to remove yeast flavor from your beer completely, I highly recommend US-05! ha ha. I'll never use it again in IPA. I like the Dryhop, 1318 and 1272 best I think. The Treehouse yeast blend that people are experimenting with was also very good.

 

[SRJHops]

Hey guys, a quick question.
Does anyone here use fermcap or something similar to reduce the amount of krausen?
I ferment in kegs and have limited head space.
Cheers!

I haven't tried them yet, but I ordered these drops as an alternative to fermcap. I was researching this topic just recently and found several posts that said not to use fermcap unless you can filter it out of your beer. Though there were others who said a little wasn't harmful.... Anyway, here is what I purchased: https://www.homebrewing.org/Foam-Control_p_1773.html

 

[secretlevel]

This is the follow up post about all my questions with Idaho 7 - I thought it'd be too dank/resiny for a NEIPA and my god was I wrong.

4 Gal batch
OG: 1.068
FG: 1.015

65% 2-row
10% Flaked oats
10% Matled oats
10% White wheat
5% Carafoam

WP@160F
1.5 Idaho
1 Mosaic
0.5 Citra

Dry Hop Day 3
0.35 Citra
0.7 Idaho
0.7 Mosaic

Dry Hop Day 9
2.5 Idaho
1.1 Citra
2 Mosaic

Keg Hop Day 12
1.1 Citra
0.7 Idaho 7

Yeast: A24, @Dgallo 's advice, thanks!

Tasting Notes
Nose: Strong tangerine, lots of peach, tropical
Flavors: Very tropical, lots of cantaloupe, a little peachy, and a lovely hint of resin.

@couchsending great observations on Idaho 7 - I do get a slight hint of black tea as well, but it's very mellow and pleasant. Great hop!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

This is the follow up post about all my questions with Idaho 7 - I thought it'd be too dank/resiny for a NEIPA and my god was I wrong.

4 Gal batch
OG: 1.068
FG: 1.015

65% 2-row
10% Flaked oats
10% Matled oats
10% White wheat
5% Carafoam

WP@160F
1.5 Idaho
1 Mosaic
0.5 Citra

Dry Hop Day 3
0.35 Citra
0.7 Idaho
0.7 Mosaic

Dry Hop Day 9
2.5 Idaho
1.1 Citra
2 Mosaic

Keg Hop Day 12
1.1 Citra
0.7 Idaho 7

Yeast: A24, @Dgallo 's advice, thanks!

Tasting Notes
Nose: Strong tangerine, lots of peach, tropical
Flavors: Very tropical, lots of cantaloupe, a little peachy, and a lovely hint of resin.

@couchsending great observations on Idaho 7 - I do get a slight hint of black tea as well, but it's very mellow and pleasant. Great hop!

View attachment 669631

That hop combo was my second brew! Great combo!

 

[skleice]

This is the follow up post about all my questions with Idaho 7 - I thought it'd be too dank/resiny for a NEIPA and my god was I wrong.

4 Gal batch
OG: 1.068
FG: 1.015

65% 2-row
10% Flaked oats
10% Matled oats
10% White wheat
5% Carafoam

WP@160F
1.5 Idaho
1 Mosaic
0.5 Citra

Dry Hop Day 3
0.35 Citra
0.7 Idaho
0.7 Mosaic

Dry Hop Day 9
2.5 Idaho
1.1 Citra
2 Mosaic

Keg Hop Day 12
1.1 Citra
0.7 Idaho 7

Yeast: A24, @Dgallo 's advice, thanks!

Tasting Notes
Nose: Strong tangerine, lots of peach, tropical
Flavors: Very tropical, lots of cantaloupe, a little peachy, and a lovely hint of resin.

@couchsending great observations on Idaho 7 - I do get a slight hint of black tea as well, but it's very mellow and pleasant. Great hop!

View attachment 669631

Is that really all the hot side hops you used? What was ibu?

I'm working on a Idaho 7/Amarillo NEIPA fermented with Voss kveik.

 

[isomerization]

I know this has been mentioned in the past, particularly by @couchsending, but I’ve had really great results with mashing at 5.4 and then dropping to 5.1 with lactic acid in the BK (before hopping). No true side-by-sides for direct comparison, but the hop character seems to pop more without bringing accompanied bitterness. Definitely recommend it!

 

[secretlevel]

Is that really all the hot side hops you used? What was ibu?

I'm working on a Idaho 7/Amarillo NEIPA fermented with Voss kveik.

Yeah, I was going for a relatively soft NEIPA so Brewfather's only giving me 11 IBU's. I was a little worried that I'd get very dank west coast flavors if I boiled any Idaho 7 so I just waited until WP to add hops.

Your beer sounds great, I anticipate awesome orange notes!

I know this has been mentioned in the past, particularly by @couchsending, but I’ve had really great results with mashing at 5.4 and then dropping to 5.1 with lactic acid in the BK (before hopping). No true side-by-sides for direct comparison, but the hop character seems to pop more without bringing accompanied bitterness. Definitely recommend it!

I remember reading something along the lines of this and the poster said that it really helps brings the esters out of A24 and London Ale III. Have you noticed anything of sorts?

 

[BeerFst]

Yeah, I was going for a relatively soft NEIPA so Brewfather's only giving me 11 IBU's. I was a little worried that I'd get very dank west coast flavors if I boiled any Idaho 7 so I just waited until WP to add hops.

Your beer sounds great, I anticipate awesome orange notes!



I remember reading something along the lines of this and the poster said that it really helps brings the esters out of A24 and London Ale III. Have you noticed anything of sorts?

I had read that sacc trois will convert lactic acid to ethyl lactate(pineapple) but I haven’t really noticed it. My first A24 batch i made a fruited Blonde (passion fruit and guava) and added an extra 5ml at flameout to push that conversion. I had read some ppl do that much per gallon (88% no less) but that seems insane to me. I didn’t get much pineapple but maybe it was overshadowed by everything else going on.

 

[Dgallo]

I had read that sacc trois will convert lactic acid to ethyl lactate(pineapple) but I haven’t really noticed it. My first A24 batch i made a fruited Blonde (passion fruit and guava) and added an extra 5ml at flameout to push that conversion. I had read some ppl do that much per gallon (88% no less) but that seems insane to me. I didn’t get much pineapple but maybe it was overshadowed by everything else going on.

That’s literally like 40 ml of lactic acid for mash and sparge, sounds absolutely absurd. Based on my water I only need like 2.4 ml mash, 2.2 ml sparge. Lactic acid has a genuine flavor of used in excess so I personally wouldn’t trust the info

 

[BeerFst]

That’s literally like 40 ml of lactic acid for mash and sparge, sounds absolutely absurd. Based on my water I only need like 2.4 ml mash, 2.2 ml sparge. Lactic acid has a genuine flavor of used in excess so I personally wouldn’t trust the info

5ml per post boil, so less than 40 but no less insane.

 

[Dgallo]

5ml per post boil, so less than 40 but no less insane.

Missed the flame out part my bad but I target 6.25 at knock out so I’d still be at 30ml lol

 

[BeerFst]

Missed the flame out part my bad but I target 6.25 at knock out so I’d still be at 30ml lol

I had contacted imperial about it way back but they couldn’t confirm that it actually converted. Actual Brett does to some extent to maybe it’s a holdover from when it was thought to be Brett. I’d still choose lactic over malic or phosphoric when using A24/A20 just in case but I’m not gonna dose extra any more. I joined MTF specifically to find out and that’s where I read about the 5/gallon. Not an official post or study just in the comments

 

[joncrook]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here on the forum. I am extremely new to brewing. I’ve only made about 10 batches. I have the Anvil Foundry 2.5 gallon set up and ordered some ingredients hoping to make a good neipa. Any feedback would be great, thanks!

5lbs — 2-Row
1lb — Flaked Oats
1lb — Oat Malt

yeast: London Ale III 1318

1/2lb dextrose - Flameout

2oz Citra - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Simcoe - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)
1oz Galaxy - 180° Whirlpool (20 mins)

day 3
1.5oz - galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

day 7
1.5oz - Galaxy
1/2oz - Simcoe

so I brewed this today. And on paper I should be in the 7% abv range, right ? My OG was only 1.048.

Anybody have any suggestions ? I also threw in my whirlpool hops loose instead of in a muslin bag this time. I’m just stumped. It’s like my fourth NEIPA I’ve brewed and it’s like I’m always at 1.048

 

[Dgallo]

so I brewed this today. And on paper I should be in the 7% abv range, right ? My OG was only 1.048.

Anybody have any suggestions ? I also threw in my whirlpool hops loose instead of in a muslin bag this time. I’m just stumped. It’s like my fourth NEIPA I’ve brewed and it’s like I’m always at 1.048

What were your actual water volumes?

 

[isomerization]

I think this was the thread talking about Pilsner lovibond, Avangard is 1.5 L:

https://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/german-pilsner/pale-and-base-malts

 

[isomerization]

Yeah, I was going for a relatively soft NEIPA so Brewfather's only giving me 11 IBU's. I was a little worried that I'd get very dank west coast flavors if I boiled any Idaho 7 so I just waited until WP to add hops.

Your beer sounds great, I anticipate awesome orange notes!



I remember reading something along the lines of this and the poster said that it really helps brings the esters out of A24 and London Ale III. Have you noticed anything of sorts?

That would be really hard to pick up on in a beer like this (I’d imagine). The pH discussion was more centered around bitterness (hops in BK) and I think cold break formation. Need to look it up, but I routinely have 7-10 mL of lactic acid in a 6 gal batch, with not taste effects.

 

[joncrook]

What were your actual water volumes?

mash 152°

4.2 gallons pre-boil
3.5 gallons post-boil

 

[beervoid]

no, not oils. thats the problem. oils need some serious dispersement. what we used was essence. more like a water based product. wasnt thick at all. poured like water. im not sure exactly where its manufactured but i think it comes from europe, then gets repackaged in the us. but dont quote me on that.

Was it variatal specific or had it's own name?

 

[Frieds]

I know this has been mentioned in the past, particularly by @couchsending, but I’ve had really great results with mashing at 5.4 and then dropping to 5.1 with lactic acid in the BK (before hopping). No true side-by-sides for direct comparison, but the hop character seems to pop more without bringing accompanied bitterness. Definitely recommend it!

I re-listened to the craft beer and brewing podcast with Henry from Monkish again last week and he said that they aim for 5.0

 

[couchsending]

I’ve heard Dan Suarez say 5.0-5.2... Chad Yakobsen say 4.9-5.1 for every beer. Henry say 5.0... brew log for Pliny say 5.07... brew log for a pastry stout at HPB say 5.01 KO pH... Local 50,000 BBL brewery shoots for 5-5.1.

Personally I think especially for very hoppy beers and especially ones with large WP charges it does help with a better fermentation as the yeasties don’t need to work quite as hard to drop pH and get fermentation going. I’ve never bothered doing a side by side (yes I know Brulosophy has) to see how low pH gets when not adjusting at KO. We know hops increase pH. Recently heard on a podcast (can’t remember which) that they do contain alkalinity which I had never really thought about but clearly makes sense. If you’re adding a ton of hops you’re essentially adding more buffering capacity to your wort. In my book the lower the pH of the final beer the cleaner/crisper the flavors become. Especially when adding these huge DH additions which will again raise pH if you start with a lower value you might be better off??? I think there are studies that say certain chemical reactions occur with hops when pH is within a certain band... 4.2-4.4 I believe?

Most of my ferments with VT Ale recently have been bottoming out slightly below 4.1 then rising a bit at the very end then increasing with DH (haven’t measured a post DH in a while). Using the Bells yeast a bit too lately and that yeast never seems to get much below 4.4 or 4.35 for some reason??

 

[Dgallo]

mash 152°

4.2 gallons pre-boil
3.5 gallons post-boil

Based on your post boil volume I got a 1.050 at 70% efficiency or 1.054 at 75%. If you boiled to exactly 2.5 gallons then yes, you would have got a 1.070 at 70% efficiency or 1.075 at 75%.

 

[jturman35]

I am really interested in taking my beer to the next level. I’m basically building my water up from distilled and haven’t paid attention to any ph adjustments other than in my mash.

Do you guys who adjust your ph post boil feel it really made a huge impact? Seems like I got some learning to do!

 

[joncrook]

Based on your post boil volume I got a 1.050 at 70% efficiency or 1.054 at 75%. If you boiled to exactly 2.5 gallons then yes, you would have got a 1.070 at 70% efficiency or 1.075 at 75%.

Alright cool, thank you for clearing that up for me. I’m extremely new to brewing, so some of this stuff is a head scratcher, haha

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I am really interested in taking my beer to the next level. I’m basically building my water up from distilled and haven’t paid attention to any ph adjustments other than in my mash.

Do you guys who adjust your ph post boil feel it really made a huge impact? Seems like I got some learning to do!

I’ve been treating my mash with lactic Acid to target ph to be under 5.4, usually hit 5.35ish. I also make sure my sparge water is under 6.0 but haven’t treated post boil ph myself. I’m finding over the first 7 brews I’ve done, I’m only needing to add about 0.5-1.5ml for mash to hit that target so it’s seems to be a lot less than others are doing here.

 

[pmaster]

Just brewed this (original recipe) on Friday. Added dry hopped today. Can I hope to drink this in 7 days?

 

[SRJHops]

Just brewed this (original recipe) on Friday. Added dry hopped today. Can I hope to drink this in 7 days?

Patience, young padawan. Sure, in theory fermentation could be complete in 3-4 days, and you could give it a few days to clean up diacetyl and such, but what's the rush?

Most any beer really needs 10-14 days in the fermentor, IMHO. Plus this style usually needs some time to condition and settle down a bit.

Yeah, you could probably drink something in 7 days, but it will probably be pretty green and not the best expression of your beer.

 

[jturman35]

My last batch went 16days in the conical.

 

[Oldskewl]

so I brewed this today. And on paper I should be in the 7% abv range, right ? My OG was only 1.048.

Anybody have any suggestions ? I also threw in my whirlpool hops loose instead of in a muslin bag this time. I’m just stumped. It’s like my fourth NEIPA I’ve brewed and it’s like I’m always at 1.048

Looks like you started with too much water. How are you calculating your water volumes? I do BIAB and usually start with approximately 8 gal pre mash on a grain bill that size for a 5 gal batch. Pre boil is then approximately 7 gal and post boil approximately 5.5 gal. Hope this helps. Every system is different. You need to figure out yours.