New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[exit8]

yes actually... not to full Co2 levels but close enough.

I think natural carb does help certain characteristics of foam as well.

My experience as well.

 

[ttuato]

Agree with spunding too!

Cheers!

 

[isomerization]

I figured, but always good to confirm. I can do this with my single infusion beers as well (at least I think I can, going to confirm that tonight lol).

NZ Pils
No dry hop
Single infusion (148 F)
3% wheat malt, rest base (all mecca grade)

Brewed 2 months ago to the day.

 

[jturman35]

Get that clear crap out of here! Lol ^

 

[marchuk96]

NZ Pils
No dry hop
Single infusion (148 F)
3% wheat malt, rest base (all mecca grade)

Brewed 2 months ago to the day.

View attachment 670529

How was the mecca grade? Did you notice a difference in quality over plain old pilsner malt?

 

[isomerization]

How was the mecca grade? Did you notice a difference in quality over plain old pilsner malt?

Would need a real side by side to be for sure, but I’ve enjoyed all the beers I’ve used it in (Pelton, Lamonta, Shaniko and have Vanora but haven’t used yet). My palate is terrible, so can’t be much more helpful, sorry.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

yes actually... not to full Co2 levels but close enough.

I think natural carb does help certain characteristics of foam as well.

Your CAMRA membership is in the post...

 

[InspectorJon]

Yea to the corn sugar sorta to the rest. It doesn’t really reduce fg but stops it from being higher. I think it’s better stated as increasing abv without adding fg, whereas adding more grain to do the same increase to og would also increase your fg.

the only way to consider it would decrease fg, is by targeting a certain og, say 1.060. If you did all grain to get there it would likely have a higher fg than if you replace a portion of that grain with dextrose

I see that now. If I start the equation by targeting a specific OG, say 1.095 in this case, adding sugar would lower the grain bill and result in a lower FG. If I start the equation by targeting a specific FG adding sugar allows me to get there with less grain.

 

[InspectorJon]

This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

personally i throw turbinado sugar in my neipa it is only a 7.5abv beer though so not sure that it pertains to your particular goal.

 

[Dgallo]

This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?

Trillium has a Cutting Tiles series of NEIPAS that use raw wild flower honey in them and they are great. Maple I personally wouldn’t try but there are options like lactose too if that’s what you’re going for

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Planning my next brew and although I loved my previous citra/I7/strata, Ive decided to brighten it up a little more on the dry hop side of things. Any thoughts on this schedule? Ive been keeping total hop dosage at 12.5oz but have since moved from a balanced hot/cold side to more hops on the cold side. Target IBUs is 40.

FWH: Warrior 0.50oz
5min boil: 0.25 each of citra/idaho7/strata
Whirlpool: 45min - 0.50oz each citra/I7/strata
30min - 0.50oz each citra/I7/strata
15min - 0.25oz each citra/I7/strata
Dry Hop: 3days - 1.5oz Citra, 1.25oz strata, 1.0oz Azacca
2days - 1.5oz Citra, 1.25oz strata, 1.0oz Azacca

EDIT: Whirlpool Ive been doing at 150degrees for all additions.

 

[marchuk96]

Would need a real side by side to be for sure, but I’ve enjoyed all the beers I’ve used it in (Pelton, Lamonta, Shaniko and have Vanora but haven’t used yet). My palate is terrible, so can’t be much more helpful, sorry.

I used the mecca opal 22 malt for a brown ale and while this was my first brown ale I felt like the malt from them actually lived up to the description...even at only 1 lb of the grain bill...I am planning on trying the pale ale malt and pilsner malt from them in some n/e's to see how they do and if it makes a noticeable difference...i know malt profile is not what you typically go for in a new england but if it lays a better platform/building block than traditional brands than why not right? I have read good things so was just trying to get some more feedback

 

[stickyfinger]

this is very subjective. i don't like honey in beer at all. maple takes a ton to give much flavor and doesn't play well with hops imho. i've come to the conlusion that simple sugars should be either sucrose or dextrose and should be used to thin out the malt flavor if that effect is desired or don't use it if not.

This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?

 

[stickyfinger]

lookin good! what kettle hops do you use? i've started doing Pils and IPLs with firm bittering (40-50 IBus calculated), lots of sulfate (like 100-150 ppm), w-34/70 yeast and always lots of Ekuanot in the kettle and/or in the dry hop. Comes out great every time! dry, crisp, hoppy, malty. very nice change of pace!

NZ Pils
No dry hop
Single infusion (148 F)
3% wheat malt, rest base (all mecca grade)

Brewed 2 months ago to the day.

View attachment 670529

 

[secretlevel]

No foam problems here

GW Idaho Select
8% Carafoam
2% Honey
.5% Caraaroma

View attachment 670400

That's quite some haze for not adding any oats/wheat, what's the secret?

 

[couchsending]

That's quite some haze for not adding any oats/wheat, what's the secret?

Carafoam and step mashing

 

[secretlevel]

Carafoam and step mashing

Very interesting, I'll have to give it a shot! Do you do 20 min for each step?
Also specifically for NEIPAs - since the first step is quite a low mash temp, you don't find your beers to be too dry and with lower body than single step mash?

 

[aaronm13]

Carafoam and step mashing

What step times and temperatures do you use for NEIPA's? Would like this for my next attempt. Usually just do a single infusion for 90 minutes and 15 minute mash out.

 

[couchsending]

It depends on the beer but the yeast I use doesn’t like to attenuate. For a 6.5% beer I’ll do

145- 45 or 60 (depending)
154- 15
162 - 20
Mashout for 10

plus a bit of dextrose

Not sure if I really need the 154 I just do it.

Personally I don’t like beers other than porters/stouts to finish much higher than 1.014 max 1.016. There’s better ways to achieve mouthfeel that doesn’t affect drink ability IMHO.

 

[Sbe2]

This brings up another question for me. Some beers use sugar additions specifically to add flavor. Since NEIPA is all about flavor, are there any sugars that might play well? Dextrose should have little or no flavor I think. Maybe honey or maple added at the right time?

This would be considered a braggot, I think. 10 lbs Rahr Two Row and 7 lbs of Honey and 20 oz of hops with 6 gallons in the fermenter. Wound up being around 10%. I am usually forced to take about a half gallon of honey from my in laws. I wouldn’t pay the retail price for that much honey, but with it being free, I make high gravity experiments with it.

 

[ihavenonickname]

This was my "Hazy Aussie" - doing my best to support their hop market after all the fires - I'm so selfless I know, all the proceeds of this beer went right into the koala's pockets :/

Water: Ca 90, Cl 160, So4 130

10 lb 2-row
1.5 lb white wheat
1 lb malted oats

mashed at 152

0.5 oz Idaho7 30 mins
WP with 6oz of Idaho7 / Columbus / Galaxy
DH with 4 oz Galaxy and 2 oz Vic Secret

LAIII at 68 ramped to 72. Crashed on Day 7 to 40F, DH'd at 60F in keg on day 9, transfer to keg on day 11.

First pic is 2 weeks in the keg - has that dense haze I seem to get with malted oats. no hop burn, some fresh green hop aroma and pretty pronounced not-yet-ripe pineapple.
2nd pic after 8 weeks in the keg - has more of that glowing haze i like the look of. Still tasted and smelled fantastic, I was really happy with how well this held up.

 

[Dennis C.]

I use the Fermonster and have made my lid with the proper ball lock connections to pressure transfer with the floating dip tube. When I transfer from the fermonster to my keg, I see A LOT of tiny bubbles in the line. My transfer is very slow, 30 minutes to get 5 gallons in the keg. I also have to run about 8 psi, maybe a bit more. I think the hops may be slowing the transfer thru the ball lock. My hoses are all sealed with clamps and very tight, so I cannot see air getting in, but I could be wrong. Are these tiny bubbles C02? Anyone else have a lot of tiny bubbles in there beer line as they pressure transfer? Also how long does it take to transfer 5 gallons?

 

[Genuine]

I was gonna ask what people are doing to up the ABV on these (Say, 8% range-ish) without effecting color too much? I was thinking of using regular table sugar or dextrose but didn't want to have a lower final gravity. I usually aim for 1.017-1.020.

 

[jjw5015]

I was gonna ask what people are doing to up the ABV on these (Say, 8% range-ish) without effecting color too much? I was thinking of using regular table sugar or dextrose but didn't want to have a lower final gravity. I usually aim for 1.017-1.020.

More malt...using more of a pale malt isn't going to make it darker

 

[SRJHops]

So, thoughts on Warm vs Cold dry hopping?

For my latest brew, I followed the advice from the recent Janish article and dry hopped cold for 3 days at about 50 degrees. (It was my second dry hop -- the first was at fermentation temps at 3.5 days with a few points left.)

The result is a smooth drinking NEIPA with very little "hop bite" or astringency. HOWEVER, it is also less flavorful/juicy than the ones I brewed that DID have some hop bite/astringency - and were dry hopped at 60 or above.

So how to thread the needle? My guess is that for my system, there is a perfect temperature for that last dry hop. I believe it's below fermentation temp, but probably closer to 60 degrees than 50. Maybe the perfect temp is the one Scott suggested, 58 degrees?

What seems to work best for you?

http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/

 

[Dgallo]

So, thoughts on Warm vs Cold dry hopping?

For my latest brew, I followed the advice from the recent Janish article and dry hopped cold for 3 days at about 50 degrees. (It was my second dry hop -- the first was at fermentation temps at 3.5 days with a few points left.)

The result is a smooth drinking NEIPA with very little "hop bite" or astringency. HOWEVER, it is also less flavorful/juicy than the ones I brewed that DID have some hop bite/astringency - and were dry hopped at 60 or above.

So how to thread the needle? My guess is that for my system, there is a perfect temperature for that last dry hop. I believe it's below fermentation temp, but probably closer to 60 degrees than 50. Maybe the perfect temp is the one Scott suggested, 58 degrees?

What seems to work best for you?

http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/

Warm has always worked better for me for extraction and flavor/aroma. Eliminating fermentation dry hopping and getting the most yeast out of suspension before hand has greatly reduced the hopburn. It’s extremely rare that I get it anymore after doing these two things

 

[HopsAreGood]

Warm has always worked better for me for extraction and flavor/aroma. Eliminating fermentation dry hopping and getting the most yeast out of suspension before hand has greatly reduced the hopburn. It’s extremely rare that I get it anymore after doing these two things

So do you soft crash to 58-60 to drop the yeast, then let it warm back up to room temperature before dry hopping?

I’ve done this with pretty good success, just curious if this is also how you do it.

 

[braindead]

Anyone played with Sabro and these recipes, finally got my hands on some?

 

[Dgallo]

So do you soft crash to 58-60 to drop the yeast, then let it warm back up to room temperature before dry hopping?

I’ve done this with pretty good success, just curious if this is also how you do it.

I crash lower, I go down to 40ish just because it’s easier for me. Then yeah I’ll let it warm back up to 68-70 to dryhop