New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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First pour of hb neipa, 5,0%, citra, citra Lupo, mosaic, nectaron & motueka (1.5 oz/gal DH). Intentionally low ABV for nice summer days. Tastes great and very happy with results. Followed most recommendations from this string, aldc, campden, Fermcap-s, A24, oxygen control, ferm & serve from same corny keg with top draw. I’m loving this batch and should get better with age.
 

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First time using Sabro, finally. Wow! What a potent hop. Tons of ripe tropical fruit and complexity. I wonder if it would pair well with some dank columbus?
 
I recently brewed an adaption of the recipes I found in this thread, and I experienced significant hop burn that never really settled out of the beer. I ended up splitting 16oz of Citra and Nectaron between the whirlpool and dry hop. Thinking I should have backed off on the whirlpool hops? Any ideas?

Next time I am going with DGallo's suggestion to back off on the whirlpool hop in favor of dryhopping.

Everything about the beer was good, other than that burn in the back of the throat. Thx in advance!

-Mark



1689696595497.png
 
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I recently brewed an adaption of the recipes I found in this thread, and I experienced significant hop burn that never really settled out of the beer. I ended up splitting 16oz of Citra and Nectaron between the whirlpool and dry hop. Thinking I should have backed off on the whirlpool hops? Any ideas?

Next time I am going with DGallo's suggestion to back off on the whirlpool hop in favor of dryhopping.

Everything about the beer was good, other than that burn in the back of the throat. Thx in advance!

-Mark



View attachment 824992
I recently brewed a NEIPA with just 4 oz of Nectaron along with Columbus and Citra and it had the craziest hop burn I ever experienced, it finally settled down but it took like 6 weeks. Now I think of Nectaron as being similar to Galaxy, so I will either use it very sparingly, or be more careful to dry hop cool & short, and use whirlfloc and gelatin to try to drop the polyphenols in suspension.
 
This is a question I know has been discussed many times but here goes again:

I ferment and serve from the same keg and am unwilling to change. In the past, to dryhop I've added the pellet hops to a bag, added to the keg post ferment, and immediately put the keg on gas, purged, cold crashed, and left the hops in the keg during the duration of consumption, usually 2-4 weeks.

Honestly it's worked well. But curious if anyone else in the thread also ferment/serves in same keg and what their method is
 
This is a question I know has been discussed many times but here goes again:

I ferment and serve from the same keg and am unwilling to change. In the past, to dryhop I've added the pellet hops to a bag, added to the keg post ferment, and immediately put the keg on gas, purged, cold crashed, and left the hops in the keg during the duration of consumption, usually 2-4 weeks.

Honestly it's worked well. But curious if anyone else in the thread also ferment/serves in same keg and what their method is
This is a question I know has been discussed many times but here goes again:

I ferment and serve from the same keg and am unwilling to change. In the past, to dryhop I've added the pellet hops to a bag, added to the keg post ferment, and immediately put the keg on gas, purged, cold crashed, and left the hops in the keg during the duration of consumption, usually 2-4 weeks.

Honestly it's worked well. But curious if anyone else in the thread also ferment/serves in same keg and what their method is
Since your unwilling to change the only option to improve your current process is, install a Janish filter for your keg and eliminate the hop bag and add them loose.

Fermenting, dryhoping and serving from the same keg certainly limits your ability to gain the brightest expression from the hops. I would would suggest you reconsider possibly changing your process. I have a thread on HBT and an article that I wrote for Brew Your Own magazine that modifies a fermonster solid lid to be able to completely close transfer. It cost about $80 for the fermenter and the materials needed for the build, which is far cheaper than any FV you can buy with close transfer capabilities.
 
Since your unwilling to change the only option to improve your current process is, install a Janish filter for your keg and eliminate the hop bag and add them loose.

Fermenting, dryhoping and serving from the same keg certainly limits your ability to gain the brightest expression from the hops. I would would suggest you reconsider possibly changing your process. I have a thread on HBT and an article that I wrote for Brew Your Own magazine that modifies a fermonster solid lid to be able to completely close transfer. It cost about $80 for the fermenter and the materials needed for the build, which is far cheaper than any FV you can buy with close transfer capabilities.
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
 
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
Certainly that will play some part but more the presence of yeast and stripping of compounds. Also some of your dryhop load sinking into the trub and not contacting the beer. Then possible clogging where attempting to fix it may cause oxidation.

Also just the fact that it’s a expensive and very labor intensive style to brew, so by fermenting, dryhoping in the same vessel you serve from is going to greatly limit your yield, which for me would be a big issue
 
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
You could always use a floating diptube to transfer the finished beer to a purged serving keg via CO2. Requires no extra gear except another keg. But for the cost of @Dgallo setup, you might want to consider it. Personally, I wouldn't want my neipa on the dry hops for 2-4 weeks...
 
Certainly that will play some part but more the presence of yeast and stripping of compounds. Also some of your dryhop load sinking into the trub and not contacting the beer. Then possible clogging where attempting to fix it may cause oxidation.
Stripping of compounds?
 
You could always use a floating diptube to transfer the finished beer to a purged serving keg via CO2. Requires no extra gear except another keg. But for the cost of @Dgallo setup, you might want to consider it. Personally, I wouldn't want my neipa on the dry hops for 2-4 weeks...
I do the floating dip tube already. I resist because I'm lazy, and because I am apparently a dummy, about 2 years ago I tried closed transfers a couple times and it never worked and was a huuuuuge PITA, and I've been happy with my results of dryhopping the same ferment/serve keg. But I think I'll try the closed transfer again, worst case it ****s up again and I expose beer to oxygen and I'll just have to chug it all quickly
 
Stripping of compounds?
Yeast had a positive attractions to some hop oils and compounds. Some studies that came out (probably 5 or more years ago now) showed that dry hoping while high yeast counts are present results in a less expressive beer because when the yeast does floc out of suspension it pull these hop compound out with them.
 
Yeast had a positive attractions to some hop oils and compounds. Some studies that came out (probably 5 or more years ago now) showed that dry hoping while high yeast counts are present results in a less expressive beer because when the yeast does floc out of suspension it pull these hop compound out with them.
Ah, got it. I'll look that up, because I remember all teh debate about dry hopping during krausen or post ferm, so maybe not appicable to what I'm doing but worth re reading anyway
 
I do the floating dip tube already. I resist because I'm lazy, and because I am apparently a dummy, about 2 years ago I tried closed transfers a couple times and it never worked and was a huuuuuge PITA, and I've been happy with my results of dryhopping the same ferment/serve keg. But I think I'll try the closed transfer again, worst case it ****s up again and I expose beer to oxygen and I'll just have to chug it all quickly
I was you for 5 years. I was afraid to try it, for fear of the unknown. I now have gear that enables me to pressure transfer, and it's made a HUGE difference in aroma and flavor.

For you, all you'd need to do after fermentation is complete is hook up your regulator to push beer from fermentation keg to serving keg, before carbing. (You could do this after carbing, but then you need a spunding valve to regulate pressure between kegs.) Simplest way would be to cold crash fermentation keg and hook liquid line out on ferm keg to liquid out on purged serving keg. Then run a gas line out on serving keg into a bucket of sanitizer. Closed transfer, no oxygen. Shouldn't have too many issues (clogs) using the floating diptube.
 
My method for ipas

3 kegs, 2 floating dip tubes. Oxygen free transfers.

Fermentation keg1 with fdt. Post fermentation chill to 50-ish degrees to drop yeast, and then transfer via O2 purged lines to fermentation-purged keg2 containing loose hops and another fdt. 50-60 degrees for 3-4 days rousing occasionally. Transfer via O2 purged lines to the serving keg3.
 
My method for ipas

3 kegs, 2 floating dip tubes. Oxygen free transfers.

Fermentation keg1 with fdt. Post fermentation chill to 50-ish degrees to drop yeast, and then transfer via O2 purged lines to fermentation-purged keg2 containing loose hops and another fdt. 50-60 degrees for 3-4 days rousing occasionally. Transfer via O2 purged lines to the serving keg3.
How much beer do you end up with?
 
It’s a great method! I start with a 10 or 7 gallon keg. Start with 24-25 liters. Usually lose a liter to yeast, 3-4 liters to dry hops.

I’m not convinced which is better - hops in the DH keg getting purged by fermentation (warmer) or adding the hops to the DH keg after transferring. I think I prefer the latter actually, but I also use a purged hop bong on my leg and use some k meta for insurance. Also, I should add sometimes im lazy and don’t use a DH keg. Just drop yeast in fermenter, dry hop directly and dont agitate. (Like is pretty common) I'm not convinced which is better. Anyone strong opinions on the differences?
 
My process is strictly ferment, loose dry hop and serve from same keg (13.5 g Kegmenter or 5 g corny) with floating dip tube. After fermentation, will soft crash to 50F for minimum of 2 days (possibly longer depending when dry hops are added). For DH, I open lid (with low volume of gas on) dump hops and purge. Keep DH for 2-3 days at 50F, then cold crash to serving temp and carbonate. This method limits oxygen exposure and is simple.

I‘m interested in @ihavenonickname use of a purged hop bong and may explore that. Also plan to trial closed transfer after fermentation to second DH and serve keg similar to @wepeeler. I noticed @BongoYodeler comment about transferring to a 3rd keg for serving. That may be something to look at down the road. For $80, I might even try @Dgallo set-up.

My brew list is mostly NEIPA’s because that’s what I like to drink. I do have a Peroni clone that will be first tapped today (a friend asked for that one). Next up will be a modern west coast IPA, based on suggestions from @ihavenonickname on a different thread.

I have gained a ton of very useful information from this thread. Thanks to all for your contributions and help.
 
I noticed @BongoYodeler comment about transferring to a 3rd keg for serving. That may be something to look at down the road.
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?
 
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?

I've done this for my last 2 dry hopped beers, granted they were a WCIPA and WC pilsner, and didn't notice any negative impact for the month or so they were on tap. Each of them had the dry hop keg loaded with dry hops, ALDC, and biofine at beginning of fermentation and was purged using fermentation CO2.

My next dry hopped beer will use the dry hop keg as the serving keg but will revisit tossing the dry hops in after I've transferred the beer into the dry hop keg. For me, the jury is still out on whether the dry hops sitting at warm temps for a week+ has any negative impact... I will say that the blowoff jar with star san has a persistent smell of weed. My gut tells me that stuff should be in my beer.
 
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?
Since I started fermenting in kegs a few years ago I usually add dry hops at the same time I put the keg on gas and leave them in for the duration of consumption. I've always been very pleased with the results but haven't done side-by-side comparisons with other methods
 
Since your unwilling to change the only option to improve your current process is, install a Janish filter for your keg and eliminate the hop bag and add them loose.

Fermenting, dryhoping and serving from the same keg certainly limits your ability to gain the brightest expression from the hops. I would would suggest you reconsider possibly changing your process. I have a thread on HBT and an article that I wrote for Brew Your Own magazine that modifies a fermonster solid lid to be able to completely close transfer. It cost about $80 for the fermenter and the materials needed for the build, which is far cheaper than any FV you can buy with close transfer capabilities.
Adding in the Fermzilla All Rounder as another cheap fermenter for closed transfers (also pressurizable and small enough to fit in a dorm fridge). Been very happy with mine. FermZilla All Rounder Fermenter | 7.9 gal. | 30 L | MoreBeer
 
It’s a great method! I start with a 10 or 7 gallon keg. Start with 24-25 liters. Usually lose a liter to yeast, 3-4 liters to dry hops.

I’m not convinced which is better - hops in the DH keg getting purged by fermentation (warmer) or adding the hops to the DH keg after transferring. I think I prefer the latter actually, but I also use a purged hop bong on my leg and use some k meta for insurance. Also, I should add sometimes im lazy and don’t use a DH keg. Just drop yeast in fermenter, dry hop directly and dont agitate. (Like is pretty common) I'm not convinced which is better. Anyone strong opinions on the differences?
I’ve also noticed no real difference when just dry hopping in the fv directly after soft crashing yeast. I used to use the DH keg but was forced to skip it one batch because my kegs were all in use. i suppose I might be missing out on some hop aroma/expression from not being able to rouse hops, but certainly have not had any off flavors or hop burn from leaving the yeast cake at the bottom during DH.
 
I ferment in 6 gallon Torpedo kegs with a floating dip tube. I soft crash and then dh loose in the keg and then cold crash. I then have typically closed transferred to a serving keg, but have also tried serving from the same keg (to work around the CO2 shortage). I do feel like the beers served directly from the fermentation/dh keg changed after a couple of weeks, developing a strong and unpleasant bitterness.

Next, I think I am going to try transferring off of the yeast to a dry hop keg, and then transferring to serving keg next.
 
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Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?
I started using one keg to ferm, DH & serve with floating dip tube a couple years ago. It was a game changer for me. Only guessing, but I give most of the credit to greater control over oxygen ingress. Have used k-meta (campden) before change to single keg. Did start adding ALDC and bio fine recently and feel both help.

Since this is the only way I brew, I’m limited to comparing, but my neipas are good (even great) and much better than I can buy locally (north GA summers & so FL winters). I have not noticed any off flavors after a couple months on the hops. On occasion I get hop burn, but attribute that to southern hemisphere hops (brought to my attention by @Dgallo . Loaded up on those types during a sale and working my way through). I’m only thinking of trying a separate DH keg to make a comparison. I’m a firm believer in the kiss method.
 
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
why not push the beer into a second keg? Getting the beer off the hop ensures you don't pick up any grassiness and help have the hop character brighter.
 
why not push the beer into a second keg? Getting the beer off the hop ensures you don't pick up any grassiness and help have the hop character brighter.
It is also stop introduction of more enzymes so you might be fighting an uphill battle if you dont get the beer off the hops.
 
For those using Asorbic acid at dryhoping, what is the typical dosing rate per gallon?
 
I use it to hit my mash pH .At 1g per gallon I think it drops it by about 0.3, but that’s a vague recollection and I presume it varies with how much carbonate is in your water .
 
Anyone using WLP644 Saccharomyces "Bruxellensis" Trois for a NEIPA?
A tried and tested recipe would be appreciated. I ordered a vial and thought it was a brett strain until I read further and it was already in the post.
I would however brew a 10 gallon batch and ferment one half with a true Brett strain as I read a NEIPA grain bill works well for a Brett beer.

 
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