• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My process is strictly ferment, loose dry hop and serve from same keg (13.5 g Kegmenter or 5 g corny) with floating dip tube. After fermentation, will soft crash to 50F for minimum of 2 days (possibly longer depending when dry hops are added). For DH, I open lid (with low volume of gas on) dump hops and purge. Keep DH for 2-3 days at 50F, then cold crash to serving temp and carbonate. This method limits oxygen exposure and is simple.

I‘m interested in @ihavenonickname use of a purged hop bong and may explore that. Also plan to trial closed transfer after fermentation to second DH and serve keg similar to @wepeeler. I noticed @BongoYodeler comment about transferring to a 3rd keg for serving. That may be something to look at down the road. For $80, I might even try @Dgallo set-up.

My brew list is mostly NEIPA’s because that’s what I like to drink. I do have a Peroni clone that will be first tapped today (a friend asked for that one). Next up will be a modern west coast IPA, based on suggestions from @ihavenonickname on a different thread.

I have gained a ton of very useful information from this thread. Thanks to all for your contributions and help.
 
I noticed @BongoYodeler comment about transferring to a 3rd keg for serving. That may be something to look at down the road.
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?
 
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?

I've done this for my last 2 dry hopped beers, granted they were a WCIPA and WC pilsner, and didn't notice any negative impact for the month or so they were on tap. Each of them had the dry hop keg loaded with dry hops, ALDC, and biofine at beginning of fermentation and was purged using fermentation CO2.

My next dry hopped beer will use the dry hop keg as the serving keg but will revisit tossing the dry hops in after I've transferred the beer into the dry hop keg. For me, the jury is still out on whether the dry hops sitting at warm temps for a week+ has any negative impact... I will say that the blowoff jar with star san has a persistent smell of weed. My gut tells me that stuff should be in my beer.
 
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?
Since I started fermenting in kegs a few years ago I usually add dry hops at the same time I put the keg on gas and leave them in for the duration of consumption. I've always been very pleased with the results but haven't done side-by-side comparisons with other methods
 
Since your unwilling to change the only option to improve your current process is, install a Janish filter for your keg and eliminate the hop bag and add them loose.

Fermenting, dryhoping and serving from the same keg certainly limits your ability to gain the brightest expression from the hops. I would would suggest you reconsider possibly changing your process. I have a thread on HBT and an article that I wrote for Brew Your Own magazine that modifies a fermonster solid lid to be able to completely close transfer. It cost about $80 for the fermenter and the materials needed for the build, which is far cheaper than any FV you can buy with close transfer capabilities.
Adding in the Fermzilla All Rounder as another cheap fermenter for closed transfers (also pressurizable and small enough to fit in a dorm fridge). Been very happy with mine. FermZilla All Rounder Fermenter | 7.9 gal. | 30 L | MoreBeer
 
It’s a great method! I start with a 10 or 7 gallon keg. Start with 24-25 liters. Usually lose a liter to yeast, 3-4 liters to dry hops.

I’m not convinced which is better - hops in the DH keg getting purged by fermentation (warmer) or adding the hops to the DH keg after transferring. I think I prefer the latter actually, but I also use a purged hop bong on my leg and use some k meta for insurance. Also, I should add sometimes im lazy and don’t use a DH keg. Just drop yeast in fermenter, dry hop directly and dont agitate. (Like is pretty common) I'm not convinced which is better. Anyone strong opinions on the differences?
I’ve also noticed no real difference when just dry hopping in the fv directly after soft crashing yeast. I used to use the DH keg but was forced to skip it one batch because my kegs were all in use. i suppose I might be missing out on some hop aroma/expression from not being able to rouse hops, but certainly have not had any off flavors or hop burn from leaving the yeast cake at the bottom during DH.
 
I ferment in 6 gallon Torpedo kegs with a floating dip tube. I soft crash and then dh loose in the keg and then cold crash. I then have typically closed transferred to a serving keg, but have also tried serving from the same keg (to work around the CO2 shortage). I do feel like the beers served directly from the fermentation/dh keg changed after a couple of weeks, developing a strong and unpleasant bitterness.

Next, I think I am going to try transferring off of the yeast to a dry hop keg, and then transferring to serving keg next.
 
Last edited:
Funny, because I'm thinking for my next neipa I may drop the serving keg and try serving directly from the dry hop keg. Have you noticed any flavor issues that can be directly tied back to sitting on the hops for a month or so?
I started using one keg to ferm, DH & serve with floating dip tube a couple years ago. It was a game changer for me. Only guessing, but I give most of the credit to greater control over oxygen ingress. Have used k-meta (campden) before change to single keg. Did start adding ALDC and bio fine recently and feel both help.

Since this is the only way I brew, I’m limited to comparing, but my neipas are good (even great) and much better than I can buy locally (north GA summers & so FL winters). I have not noticed any off flavors after a couple months on the hops. On occasion I get hop burn, but attribute that to southern hemisphere hops (brought to my attention by @Dgallo . Loaded up on those types during a sale and working my way through). I’m only thinking of trying a separate DH keg to make a comparison. I’m a firm believer in the kiss method.
 
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
why not push the beer into a second keg? Getting the beer off the hop ensures you don't pick up any grassiness and help have the hop character brighter.
 
why not push the beer into a second keg? Getting the beer off the hop ensures you don't pick up any grassiness and help have the hop character brighter.
It is also stop introduction of more enzymes so you might be fighting an uphill battle if you dont get the beer off the hops.
 
For those using Asorbic acid at dryhoping, what is the typical dosing rate per gallon?
 
I use it to hit my mash pH .At 1g per gallon I think it drops it by about 0.3, but that’s a vague recollection and I presume it varies with how much carbonate is in your water .
 
Anyone using WLP644 Saccharomyces "Bruxellensis" Trois for a NEIPA?
A tried and tested recipe would be appreciated. I ordered a vial and thought it was a brett strain until I read further and it was already in the post.
I would however brew a 10 gallon batch and ferment one half with a true Brett strain as I read a NEIPA grain bill works well for a Brett beer.

 
I recently brewed an adaption of the recipes I found in this thread, and I experienced significant hop burn that never really settled out of the beer. I ended up splitting 16oz of Citra and Nectaron between the whirlpool and dry hop. Thinking I should have backed off on the whirlpool hops? Any ideas?

Next time I am going with DGallo's suggestion to back off on the whirlpool hop in favor of dryhopping.

Everything about the beer was good, other than that burn in the back of the throat. Thx in advance!

-Mark



View attachment 824992

I don't see acid on your brew sheet.

Usually that is caused by forgetting to acidify sparge water and you extract polyphenols (tannins) from the grains. Most common flaw in craft IPAs. The problem seems to present more in highly hopped beer so it is also possible pH went too high after dry-hopping (hops increase pH) and you extracted polyphenols from the hops too.
 
I don't see acid on your brew sheet.

Usually that is caused by forgetting to acidify sparge water and you extract polyphenols (tannins) from the grains. Most common flaw in craft IPAs. The problem seems to present more in highly hopped beer so it is also possible pH went too high after dry-hopping (hops increase pH) and you extracted polyphenols from the hops too.

it's very hard in practice to get tannins from the grains. If this astringency isn't present in any of their other beers that is definitely not the issue. I've seen judges note sparge related issues on scoresheets with hop related astringency and it drives me crazy because it's obviously not the issue in heavily hopped beers when there's a much more likely cause.

It's 100% hop related, either hop polyphenols or an increase in pH with the dry hopping.
 
Not so hazy IPA report:

9 lb 2 row
5 lb pils
3 lb flaked wheat
0.75 lb wheat
0.25 lb honey malt

1 oz Amarillo 15 min (13 IBU)
1 oz Strata 5 min (7 IBU)
1 oz Amarillo whirlpool (175 for 30 min)
1 oz Strata whirlpool (175 for 30 min)
2 oz El Dorado whirlpool (175 for 30 min)
4 oz Strata dry hop
2 oz El Dorado dry hop
4 oz El Dorado lupomax dry hop
2 oz Amarillo dry hop
2 oz Amarillo lupomax dry hop

Whirlfoc 10 min
Yeast nutrient 10 min

Imperial Juice gen 1

75:225 sulfate chloride

O.G. = 1.070
F.G. = 1.019
ABV = 6.7%

1691532879135.png


I decided to try a few newish things on this batch.
1. later boil additions
2. reduce WP to 4 oz and increase DH to 14 oz
3. dry hop after soft crashing without raising temp back up
4. using whirlfloc and gelatin to reduce hop burn
5. bump CaCL up to 225

Clearest NEIPA I’ve ever brewed, probably not passable for a hazy. Pineapple, strawberry, and melon aroma. Pine, strawberry, pineapple, mango taste. Finishes just slightly bitter. The flavors are definitely pretty cool and kind of unique. Mouthfeel is medium but comes across crisp and almost slightly drying. Overall its decent and interesting IPA but I wouldn't call it a NEIPA, more like a fuller bodied modern west coast IPA.

For what its worth I've brewed probably 30 or 40 of these and have gotten medals for 6 of them, but most of those medals were for recipes that used way less hops and no soft crashing or fining agents. Those NEIPAs were really good but not perfect so I've been putting a lot of time into experimenting on how to make them better. It seems like every new technique I try makes no difference or even sends me in the wrong direction. Bit of a rant, sorry. I still wonder what I can actually do to improve, but my next batch is definitely going to be a 'back to basics' NEIPA.
 
Not so hazy IPA report:

9 lb 2 row
5 lb pils
3 lb flaked wheat
0.75 lb wheat
0.25 lb honey malt

1 oz Amarillo 15 min (13 IBU)
1 oz Strata 5 min (7 IBU)
1 oz Amarillo whirlpool (175 for 30 min)
1 oz Strata whirlpool (175 for 30 min)
2 oz El Dorado whirlpool (175 for 30 min)
4 oz Strata dry hop
2 oz El Dorado dry hop
4 oz El Dorado lupomax dry hop
2 oz Amarillo dry hop
2 oz Amarillo lupomax dry hop

Whirlfoc 10 min
Yeast nutrient 10 min

Imperial Juice gen 1

75:225 sulfate chloride

O.G. = 1.070
F.G. = 1.019
ABV = 6.7%

View attachment 826700

I decided to try a few newish things on this batch.
1. later boil additions
2. reduce WP to 4 oz and increase DH to 14 oz
3. dry hop after soft crashing without raising temp back up
4. using whirlfloc and gelatin to reduce hop burn
5. bump CaCL up to 225

Clearest NEIPA I’ve ever brewed, probably not passable for a hazy. Pineapple, strawberry, and melon aroma. Pine, strawberry, pineapple, mango taste. Finishes just slightly bitter. The flavors are definitely pretty cool and kind of unique. Mouthfeel is medium but comes across crisp and almost slightly drying. Overall its decent and interesting IPA but I wouldn't call it a NEIPA, more like a fuller bodied modern west coast IPA.

For what its worth I've brewed probably 30 or 40 of these and have gotten medals for 6 of them, but most of those medals were for recipes that used way less hops and no soft crashing or fining agents. Those NEIPAs were really good but not perfect so I've been putting a lot of time into experimenting on how to make them better. It seems like every new technique I try makes no difference or even sends me in the wrong direction. Bit of a rant, sorry. I still wonder what I can actually do to improve, but my next batch is definitely going to be a 'back to basics' NEIPA.
Yeah, def looks more the process of a modern west coast ipa. Beer sounds like it should produce a nice “clearer” beer. Sounds and looks good to me
 
Last edited:
Clearest NEIPA I’ve ever brewed, probably not passable for a hazy. Pineapple, strawberry, and melon aroma. Pine, strawberry, pineapple, mango taste. Finishes just slightly bitter. The flavors are definitely pretty cool and kind of unique. Mouthfeel is medium but comes across crisp and almost slightly drying. Overall its decent and interesting IPA but I wouldn't call it a NEIPA, more like a fuller bodied modern west coast IPA.
Looks like a very good "Juicy IPA". (In my mind "modern west coast IPA" means the trend toward 100% Pilsner grist IPAs). I am a bit surprised that beer does not have more haze given the large amount of Wheat, use of Imperial Juice and the amount of hops. Would the gelatin have that big of an impact?

I helped to brew a batch of an Hazy IPA for a local brewery that is know for Hazy IPAs. This is their own recipe, and each time I have seen it on tap it has dropped clear after a few weeks. This is at a pilot location, and they brew most of their Hazies at a central brewery. I believe the yeast they use is a blend of London III and Chico, but we used a pitch that came directly from the main brewery and it is the same blend they use for their Hazies. I have wondered if it is just something about the equipment at the pilot brewery.
 
Yeah, def looks more the process of a modern west coast ipa. Beer sounds like it should produce a nice “clearer” beer. Sounds and looks good to me
How so? Gelatin is more of a west coast process, but even that is something I picked up on this thread to try to speed up conditioning time. My west coast recipe uses pretty different grain, water, and yeast.
 
Looks like a very good "Juicy IPA". (In my mind "modern west coast IPA" means the trend toward 100% Pilsner grist IPAs). I am a bit surprised that beer does not have more haze given the large amount of Wheat, use of Imperial Juice and the amount of hops. Would the gelatin have that big of an impact?

I helped to brew a batch of an Hazy IPA for a local brewery that is know for Hazy IPAs. This is their own recipe, and each time I have seen it on tap it has dropped clear after a few weeks. This is at a pilot location, and they brew most of their Hazies at a central brewery. I believe the yeast they use is a blend of London III and Chico, but we used a pitch that came directly from the main brewery and it is the same blend they use for their Hazies. I have wondered if it is just something about the equipment at the pilot brewery.
I think you nailed it with the term Juicy IPA. I was definitely surprised by the appearance as well, but also how it much it seemingly impacted the flavor and mouthfeel. It's weirdly crisp for finishing at 1.019.
 
How so? Gelatin is more of a west coast process, but even that is something I picked up on this thread to try to speed up conditioning time. My west coast recipe uses pretty different grain, water, and yeast.
Yeah I just meant the specific process of using the gelatin. I personally think cold side finings have no purpose in a hazy unless you’re using it prior to dryhoping. I know people will disagree.

I also believe that some people do not get their finings evenly mixed and their beers don’t clear much so they incorrectly assume that it won’t clear a hazy but when it’s mixed evenly, it certainly will and will pull aroma and flavor compounds out
 
Last edited:
Im very surprised by that beers appearance! Wheat, London ale three, and a huge DH yields very reliable haze in my experience. I guess you could have had some oats.
The flaked wheat was supposed to be flaked oats lol, I scooped from the wrong bin by mistake.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top