New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Braufessor]

Unfortunately it looks like I missed my intended window for dry hopping. Came home from work and the airlock was barely bubbling so I took a reading and it shows 1.014 which is likely fully attenuated.

Looks like I'll have to do it the boring old fashioned way and wait until the next batch to see what adding the hops in early does to the flavor profile.

Anybody else missed their window and any noticeable differences in your opinion?

Not the end of the world. When I first started brewing this, I was dry hopping it in the 5-7 day range...... which was probably after fermentation was basically dying down. Beer was still great. I do add the first round early now - day 3 or so. But, to be honest, I can't say that I definitely notice a huge difference or anything.

 

[Hannabrew]

Not the end of the world. When I first started brewing this, I was dry hopping it in the 5-7 day range...... which was probably after fermentation was basically dying down. Beer was still great. I do add the first round early now - day 3 or so. But, to be honest, I can't say that I definitely notice a huge difference or anything.

Thanks Braufessor! If this one turns out nearly as good as my Sue clone you helped me on I'll be in good shape. You're a great mentor!

 

[Nomofett]

Made it with Denali, Mandarina Bavaria, and Mosaic. Only a week into the bottle conditioning but I tried one yesterday, lots of **** floating around in it so hopefully that'll settle down when I refrigerate it. Great though! Thanks for the recipe, I've made and tasted beers I thought we very fruity but my girlfriend hated every one. This one she actually drank half the bottle and said was delicious!

 

[02RedWS6TA]

My second one done and tapped. Really good, mosaic, citra, and Amarillo again for hops but changed up the grain bill. Split the base grains 50/50 Maris otter and 2 row.

 

[NHBrews]

My second one done and tapped. Really good, mosaic, citra, and Amarillo again for hops but changed up the grain bill. Split the base grains 50/50 Maris otter and 2 row.

That sure looks tasty. Just kegged mine with same hop trifecta. I used 100% golden promise for the base, hoping it adds a bit of extra sweetness vs straight 2-row

 

[griffi]

My second one done and tapped. Really good, mosaic, citra, and Amarillo again for hops but changed up the grain bill. Split the base grains 50/50 Maris otter and 2 row.

Same hops and same grain bill here. I agree this is a good combo. Only thing I'd do different next time is mash a bit higher. Enjoying a little right now while brewing a hefe.

 

[jekeane]

Trying a sample today. It has been on gas for about 2 days. It's decent and am interested to see what it's like in a couple more days when some of the dry hop grassiness fades.

The seems a bot more bitter that I recall for the style and the mouthfeel is definitely more medium light and dry than fuller.

My initial dry hop was lacking a bit of citra as the leaf hops never settled. I probably should have krausened the beer a bit before tossing them in. I never use leaf hops. live and learn.

 

[Oldskewl]

Brewing the 1418 post with some added oat malt. Using harvested Bells yeast this time as Bruafessor says 1272 is very good as well.

 

[mintyice]

Not the end of the world. When I first started brewing this, I was dry hopping it in the 5-7 day range...... which was probably after fermentation was basically dying down. Beer was still great. I do add the first round early now - day 3 or so. But, to be honest, I can't say that I definitely notice a huge difference or anything.

I never primary dryhop during active fermentation. I usually wait til day 14 or so and dry hop loose in the keg. I think that makes a bigger difference than whatever biotransformation voodoo might be taking place.

 

[marjen]

Man this WY1318 ferments fast. Room temp is 62, fermenter 70. Tons of activity.

Tried adding a video but would not work.

 

[Redtab78]

Just wondering, but what kindmofmflavors are you guys getting outmof these compared to a typical IPA? mine is kegged, carbed and at 38F and while the initial taste is very good and i would easily describe it as juicy, but i am getting a very wierd after taste.....one that i have never experianced before......the only way i can describe it is "green".

Is there a taste description list somewhere that i could read and figuremout what it is?

 

[isomerization]

Just wondering, but what kindmofmflavors are you guys getting outmof these compared to a typical IPA? mine is kegged, carbed and at 38F and while the initial taste is very good and i would easily describe it as juicy, but i am getting a very wierd after taste.....one that i have never experianced before......the only way i can describe it is "green".

Is there a taste description list somewhere that i could read and figuremout what it is?

I think these types of beers need to be drank at about 50 F or so, obviously you need to serve coldered from the keg, but I always find there to be more harsh flavors/bitterness at low temp.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Just wondering, but what kindmofmflavors are you guys getting outmof these compared to a typical IPA? mine is kegged, carbed and at 38F and while the initial taste is very good and i would easily describe it as juicy, but i am getting a very wierd after taste.....one that i have never experianced before......the only way i can describe it is "green".

Is there a taste description list somewhere that i could read and figuremout what it is?

What yeast did you use? I used 1318 and wasn't a huge fan of the flavors it imparted. This batch I have in the fermenter now I used Conan. Curious to see what the difference in taste will be.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

What yeast did you use? I used 1318 and wasn't a huge fan of the flavors it imparted. This batch I have in the fermenter now I used Conan. Curious to see what the difference in taste will be.

So far I've done 3 batches between pale ale and IPA, two IPA batches one PA. I've used 1056, 1318, and Conan/WLP 095 in each one. Both IPA's were the same hop schedule but pretty different grain bills. It's hard to compare since things aren't exact but the 1056 IPA would smell up an entire room when it poured from the tap. Since it was the same hop schedule and the 1318 was said to add an extra boost in juice I expected this one to just be crazy but it didn't pack the punch the 1056 batch did. On my next 1318 batch I'll be collecting the yeast to reuse as I hear second and so forth generations get better.

That said they're both fantastic. I have some more experimenting to do before I decide what I'm going to stick with but right now I'm leaning towards the 1318 in the regular 6.5% IPA and going with the 1056 on an imperial version of the beer, hoping it carries through extra sweetness to counter the bigger alcohol. This could all be way wrong but it's my plan for now.

 

[marjen]

Man this 1318 is crazy stuff, blew the top off my carboy last night. What a mess. Airlock was going nuts all afternoon. There is about 4.25 gallons in a 5 gallon carboy. The entire orange cap was on the floor and Kruzen all down the sides of the carboy. I cleaned it up and taped the cap back on and taped the airlock to the cap. A couple hours later there was kruzen in the airlock so I cleaned it out again. This morning all was ok. Still getting good activity but seems to have died down a little. Not even 2 days in yet. I assume the beer will be ok, but we will see. Hope so.

 

[JohnK93]

Brewed this over the weekend using 1318 and 2:1 Citra:Galaxy hopping on the same schedule as the original recipe. My mash pH might have been a little low. The best I could tell with the test strips is that it was between 5.0 and 5.4. Nothing to be too worried about, but I was shooting for 5.35 and it was probably a bit lower. Other than that, hit my OG of 1.059 and brew day went really good.

It's bubbling away at about 66F and looks like a healthy fermentation...doesn't look to be any threat of a blow off, but there's a steady stream of bubbles. Can't wait to try this one.

 

[Braufessor]

Brewed this over the weekend using 1318 and 2:1 Citra:Galaxy hopping on the same schedule as the original recipe. My mash pH might have been a little low. The best I could tell with the test strips is that it was between 5.0 and 5.4. Nothing to be too worried about, but I was shooting for 5.35 and it was probably a bit lower. Other than that, hit my OG of 1.059 and brew day went really good.

It's bubbling away at about 66F and looks like a healthy fermentation...doesn't look to be any threat of a blow off, but there's a steady stream of bubbles. Can't wait to try this one.

If you used RO water, similar Gypsum/CaCl additions to recommended and similar grain bill your pH was just fine. Those test strips are sketchy at best..... even the good ones. I have measured pH in this beer dozens and dozens of times - it always comes in right in the ballpark.

I would keep rechecking in regard to 1318/blowoff...... that yeast almost always blows off whenever I have used it - usually in the 48 hour range or so.

 

[Braufessor]

Man this 1318 is crazy stuff, blew the top off my carboy last night. What a mess. Airlock was going nuts all afternoon. There is about 4.25 gallons in a 5 gallon carboy. The entire orange cap was on the floor and Kruzen all down the sides of the carboy. I cleaned it up and taped the cap back on and taped the airlock to the cap. A couple hours later there was kruzen in the airlock so I cleaned it out again. This morning all was ok. Still getting good activity but seems to have died down a little. Not even 2 days in yet. I assume the beer will be ok, but we will see. Hope so.

Do this in the future..... room for all that gunk to get out and not plug up your airlock....
https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/552/bubbles1.jpg

 

[arnobg]

If you used RO water, similar Gypsum/CaCl additions to recommended and similar grain bill your pH was just fine. Those test strips are sketchy at best..... even the good ones. I have measured pH in this beer dozens and dozens of times - it always comes in right in the ballpark.

I would keep rechecking in regard to 1318/blowoff...... that yeast almost always blows off whenever I have used it - usually in the 48 hour range or so.

I have never had a brew blow off in 3 years of brewing until I brewed this beer. Even the stout that I brewed with 1318 last year didn't blow off. I use 7.8 gallon buckets which leaves plenty of headspace, but I guess the healthy 1318 starter mixed with the 6 gallons of oxygenated wort in the fermenter was the perfect recipe for the massive blow off this gave me...

 

[Braufessor]

Just wondering, but what kindmofmflavors are you guys getting outmof these compared to a typical IPA? mine is kegged, carbed and at 38F and while the initial taste is very good and i would easily describe it as juicy, but i am getting a very wierd after taste.....one that i have never experianced before......the only way i can describe it is "green".

Is there a taste description list somewhere that i could read and figuremout what it is?

I have gotten that with some hops I have used..... not sure if you went with the Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combo in the ratios I recommended - or some other combo.
I find I get a grassy/green/somewhat harsh flavor when I use hops like Columbus, Eureka, Apollo...... etc...... some of the hops that are more "dank" in nature.
Sometimes it can be the quality of the hops, over-hopping of ounces:gallons of beer, getting too much hop matter into keg, etc. Sometimes it fades/mellows - sometimes not. I have had the same thing with some hop combinations though.

 

[JohnK93]

If you used RO water, similar Gypsum/CaCl additions to recommended and similar grain bill your pH was just fine. Those test strips are sketchy at best..... even the good ones. I have measured pH in this beer dozens and dozens of times - it always comes in right in the ballpark.

I would keep rechecking in regard to 1318/blowoff...... that yeast almost always blows off whenever I have used it - usually in the 48 hour range or so.

I'm using tap water, not RO water, and targeted 125ppm Chloride and 75ppm Sulfate, so my additions were a little different. Got a water test about 6 months ago and adjusted based on Bru'n Water with Gypsum, CaCl, and lactic acid. I know the test strips are not the most accurate, but at least they tell me I'm in the right ball park until I get a pH meter.

I'll keep an eye on the airlock...coming up on the 48 hour mark this afternoon. I did as you suggested and pitched low (about 62) and I'm letting it free rise up to about 67-68, so once the temps are a little higher I expect the fermentation to take off.

 

[Redtab78]

I have gotten that with some hops I have used..... not sure if you went with the Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combo in the ratios I recommended - or some other combo.
I find I get a grassy/green/somewhat harsh flavor when I use hops like Columbus, Eureka, Apollo...... etc...... some of the hops that are more "dank" in nature.
Sometimes it can be the quality of the hops, over-hopping of ounces:gallons of beer, getting too much hop matter into keg, etc. Sometimes it fades/mellows - sometimes not. I have had the same thing with some hop combinations though.

I used Amarillo, citra, mosaic in a 1:1:1 ratio, and added .5oz of vic secret (milder version of galaxy) at the day 4/12 dry hop, and used a second gen starter of conan (yeast bay).

 

[curtisbrewer]

just brewed one on saturday that included:

OG 1.070
10 gallon batch
ibu- 80
6.8 srm
7.3 %

2-row- 62%
golden promise-21%
flaked oats-12%
caramel 60 - 3%
honey malt - 2%

edit: not sure if i will get questions about going full 80% 2 row and/or why i added 20% golden promise. golden promise without a doubt creates a richer,maltier, deeper feel to me at a small scale( which just adds a slight edge off setting the pound of hops .. when experimenting i have done equal parts 2row and golden promise without desirable effects.


10 minutes (2 OZ of each)
amarillo
azaaca
centennial

20 min steep:
2 oz citra
2 oz mosaic
1.5 oz azaaca

first dry hop ( 2.5 days in gravity reading at 1.020)
2oz azaaca
2oz citra
1oz mosaic

after sampling it at 1.020 this beer seems extreme in the juicy floral fruity departments, but holds the pine as well. i plan on splitting it, and throwing an additional keg hop in to one of them which will be complicated/crazy with a stupid blend.

will report back with pics / final results.

edit: added slight explanation to the grain bill

 

[hajenad]

How do you guys dryhop in keg? Someone mentioned loose. I have dryhopped in a muslin bag in the keg before but didn't really notice too much of a benefit. Just lookin to get some input on this.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

How do you guys dryhop in keg? Someone mentioned loose. I have dryhopped in a muslin bag in the keg before but didn't really notice too much of a benefit. Just lookin to get some input on this.

I have superfine nylon mesh bags (from BSG) that work well with pellet hops. Tie a shot glass (sanitized) inside the bag to make it sink.

 

[Sbe2]

Let us know how it turns out, I've been thinking about the same hop combo.

If you haven't brewed this yet, it is a danky grapefruit bomb, with a clean bitterness. It is a funky combo, but I like it, a good change up if you will.

 

[crusader1612]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=625331

Just forthose of you interested in the Milkshake beers that have been talked about in earlier posts. should be an interesting read.

 

[TimmyWit]

Sure thing. This was actually a 15G recipe split 3-ways. 5G is sitting on OYL-212 and 5G is on OYL-218. So, I went ahead and scaled the recipe back to 5G. It is tasty but when I do it again, I'll probably scale it back a tad; maybe shoot for 1.070/1.018. It was pushed to the serving keg on day 15.

Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.0 gal
Mash: 60 min @ 154
Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Eff: 75%
OG: 1.076
FG: 1.020
ABV: 7.3

Grain
8 lbs 7.4 oz Maris Otter (Bairds) (4.0 SRM) Grain 1 61.6 %
3 lbs 7.7 oz Munich 10L (Best) (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 25.3 %
1 lbs 12.8 oz Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 3 13.1 %

Hops
0.36 oz Apollo - First Wort 60.0 min
0.36 oz Citra - Boil 10.0 min
0.36 oz Galaxy - Boil 10.0 min
0.36 oz Mosaic - Boil 10 min
1.00 oz Amarillo - @ flameout, chill to 160, whirlpool 30 min
0.67 oz Citra - @ flameout, chill to 160, whirlpool 30 min
0.67 oz Galaxy - @ flameout, chill to 160, whirlpool 30 min
0.67 oz Mosaic - @ flameout, chill to 160, whirlpool 30 min
2 oz Citra - 5 day dry hop
1 oz Mosaic - 5 day dry hop
1 oz Citra - 10 day dry hop
1 oz Galaxy - 10 day dry hop
1 oz Amarillo - 10 day dry hop

Yeast
2L starter - Omega Hothead Ale (OYL-057)

Water
RO with .9g/G Gypsum + 1g/G CaCl
152 Calcium, 134 Sulfate, 173 Chloride
Between the grain & mineral additions, estimated mash PH was 5.25 so no acid was added to the mash.

Poured the first glass of the Brett version (OYL-218) tonight. It finished at 1.010 for an ABV of 8.7%. The dry hop on this one got one addition of 4oz (2oz each Citra and Mosaic). So far it seems to have a higher perceivable bitterness and drinks a little closer to a standard IIPA, I assume due to the lower FG. While both beers came out quite different, they are both very tasty. It is pretty smooth considering it's 8.7%. I brought a glass up for the wife to taste, told her what it is and she asks "is this on tap?" I told her it is and she says "well, that's dangerous". Looking forward to seeing how that final 3rd on OYL-212 comes out in a few months

 

[JohnConnor]

Poured the first glass of the Brett version (OYL-218) tonight. It finished at 1.010 for an ABV of 8.7%. The dry hop on this one got one addition of 4oz (2oz each Citra and Mosaic). So far it seems to have a higher perceivable bitterness and drinks a little closer to a standard IIPA, I assume due to the lower FG. While both beers came out quite different, they are both very tasty. It is pretty smooth considering it's 8.7%. I brought a glass up for the wife to taste, told her what it is and she asks "is this on tap?" I told her it is and she says "well, that's dangerous". Looking forward to seeing how that final 3rd on OYL-212 comes out in a few months

How did you like the Hothead? It's next on my list to try.

 

[JohnK93]

I've been trying to follow this recipe & process as closely as possible. I'm on day 4 of fermentation today, but I'm trying to figure out my plan for dry hopping because I don't have the screen for the purged-keg method described. I do have two empty kegs, I just don't have the filter screen. I'll throw the first dry hop into the primary tonight, but trying to figure out the next dry hop.

Option 1 - both dry hops in primary. Why not do both dry hops in the primary before kegging? There should be a blanket of C02 in the primary, so what's the worry?
Option 2 - first dry hop in primary, second dry hop in a bag in the serving keg.

Would one be better than the other?

Thanks,
John

 

[Braufessor]

I've been trying to follow this recipe & process as closely as possible. I'm on day 4 of fermentation today, but I'm trying to figure out my plan for dry hopping because I don't have the screen for the purged-keg method described. I do have two empty kegs, I just don't have the filter screen. I'll throw the first dry hop into the primary tonight, but trying to figure out the next dry hop.

Option 1 - both dry hops in primary. Why not do both dry hops in the primary before kegging? There should be a blanket of C02 in the primary, so what's the worry?
Option 2 - first dry hop in primary, second dry hop in a bag in the serving keg.

Would one be better than the other?

Thanks,
John

I have actually been doing both dry hops in primary over the last couple months - it takes a little more care when it comes time to transfer to keg (because there is a lot more debris in the primary) - however, flavor wise - it works just as well.
*I have SS brew buckets with a cone shaped bottom, and I let them sit on the counter for 1-2 days before keg transfer to let as much debris settle out as possible. Still not perfect - but I manage to get pretty clean beer into the serving keg doing this.

I think people have good success doing either - so, it kind of comes down to what is going to work best for your particular system/process.

 

[JohnK93]

I have actually been doing both dry hops in primary over the last couple months - it takes a little more care when it comes time to transfer to keg (because there is a lot more debris in the primary) - however, flavor wise - it works just as well.
*I have SS brew buckets with a cone shaped bottom, and I let them sit on the counter for 1-2 days before keg transfer to let as much debris settle out as possible. Still not perfect - but I manage to get pretty clean beer into the serving keg doing this.

I think people have good success doing either - so, it kind of comes down to what is going to work best for your particular system/process.

Thanks, Braufessor! Pulled a sample yesterday (3.5 days) and it's at about 1.022...planning on first dry hop tonight. Looked amazing, smelled good, but still tasted like a yeast factory.

 

[Hannabrew]

I've been trying to follow this recipe & process as closely as possible. I'm on day 4 of fermentation today, but I'm trying to figure out my plan for dry hopping because I don't have the screen for the purged-keg method described. I do have two empty kegs, I just don't have the filter screen. I'll throw the first dry hop into the primary tonight, but trying to figure out the next dry hop.

Option 1 - both dry hops in primary. Why not do both dry hops in the primary before kegging? There should be a blanket of C02 in the primary, so what's the worry?
Option 2 - first dry hop in primary, second dry hop in a bag in the serving keg.

Would one be better than the other?

Thanks,
John

If the keg is not going to move, I don't think it would be a big deal to throw loose pellet hops in there without a screen. You'd get a pint or two of debris but after that I would think it would be fine.

 

[303Dan]

I've been trying to follow this recipe & process as closely as possible. I'm on day 4 of fermentation today, but I'm trying to figure out my plan for dry hopping because I don't have the screen for the purged-keg method described. I do have two empty kegs, I just don't have the filter screen. I'll throw the first dry hop into the primary tonight, but trying to figure out the next dry hop.

Option 1 - both dry hops in primary. Why not do both dry hops in the primary before kegging? There should be a blanket of C02 in the primary, so what's the worry?
Option 2 - first dry hop in primary, second dry hop in a bag in the serving keg.

Would one be better than the other?

Thanks,
John

I do both dry hops in primary. I have an SS Brewtech BME conical, so I do the first dry hop on day 2-3 when primary fermentation is still ripping and able to purge any air introduced out naturally. Then dry hop number 2 goes in around day 7. After that one, I use a low pressure regulator setup I built and the PRV on the fermenter to purge the headspace as best I can. I then keep 1-2 psi of co2 on the fermenter for the rest of the way so I can both dump trub and hop debris, as well as cold crash, using the co2 to replace the displaced volume/pressure in both cases. Then on around day 12-14, I use that 1-2 psi to push to a purged keg.

That's the best solution I've been able to come up with to satisfy my OCD regarding oxygen exposure. . I've never been able to come up with an approach I like enough to do the second dry hop in the keg, but I'm still open to it. To me, I'd have to purge the entire volume of the keg 10-12 times at 30psi to feel like really got the O2ppm down enough and that would use a ton of CO2. It would probably work fine, though.

Dan

 

[Hannabrew]

I do both dry hops in primary. I have an SS Brewtech BME conical, so I do the first dry hop on day 2-3 when primary fermentation is still ripping and able to purge any air introduced out naturally. Then dry hop number 2 goes in around day 7. After that one, I use a low pressure regulator setup I built and the PRV on the fermenter to purge the headspace as best I can. I then keep 1-2 psi of co2 on the fermenter for the rest of the way so I can both dump trub and hop debris, as well as cold crash, using the co2 to replace the displaced volume/pressure in both cases. Then on around day 12-14, I use that 1-2 psi to push to a purged keg.

That's the best solution I've been able to come up with to satisfy my OCD regarding oxygen exposure. . I've never been able to come up with an approach I like enough to do the second dry hop in the keg, but I'm still open to it. To me, I'd have to purge the entire volume of the keg 10-12 times at 30psi to feel like really got the O2ppm down enough and that would use a ton of CO2. It would probably work fine, though.

Dan

I usually do a closed transfer from Primary to C02 purged keg and then add dry hops afterwards, quickly purging any O2 introduced when adding the dry hops by filling the small headspace with C02, purging and repeating a few times. Is this not doing as good of a job as I think?

 

[303Dan]

I usually do a closed transfer from Primary to C02 purged keg and then add dry hops afterwards, quickly purging any O2 introduced when adding the dry hops by filling the small headspace with C02, purging and repeating a few times. Is this not doing as good of a job as I think?

I think that works fine as long as you're purging the keg headspace sufficiently. There's a great chart floating around here somewhere that tells you remaining ppm of O2 left in headspace after x amount of purges at a given psi. To get the O2 down to a level where I'm comfortable based on information I've read about what amounts can cause detectable oxidation levels, that chart says I need At least 13 purges at 30psi. Sounds like a ton of co2, I know.

My method probably isn't any better in terms of results, but uses less co2 for a couple reasons. Really, it's just preference at that point.

Dan

 

[Hannabrew]

Great, I don't think I want to see that chart...

 

[303Dan]

Great, I don't think I want to see that chart...

LOL, I know what you mean.

Because it's how I roll, here it is anyway....

 

[Hannabrew]

LOL, I know what you mean.

Because it's how I roll, here it is anyway....

When you say you would need 13 purges at 30 PSI, isn't that assuming you are starting with 250,000 (ish) PPM of O2 to begin with? Is that our normal air concentration of O2? If not, what is that chart assuming?

If I have a fully CO2 purged keg and open it for 10-15 seconds max to drop in my hop tube, I'm guessing I wouldn't have that high of a concentration of O2. Then again, I know nothing about this sort of thing.

 

[Hannabrew]

Wikipedia answered my question, I'm guessing it's assuming it has no CO2 in there to begin with as the normal PPM of O2 in our air is 209,460 which looks like it lines up nicely with that chart.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth

So I assume (correct me if I'm wrong) that I would need far less purging if I'm starting with 100% CO2 and only introducing air for a limited amount of time and with CO2 being heavier than air O2 I'm guessing it tends to hold it's ground a bit.