Yeah, I'm sure the slope of the lines would be different based on initial concentrations of O2. I'm no scientist, but I would also assume that the point at which the line gets down to 0.1ppm would be closer to the same than you'd think even for a low starting ppm. Because I would assume the net ppm O2 reduced in each purge would be lower with a lower starting O2 concentration, especially in the first few purges. Does that make sense, or am I talking out of my ass? The latter is definitely possible.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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Yeah, I'm sure the slope of the lines would be different based on initial concentrations of O2. I'm no scientist, but I would also assume that the point at which the line gets down to 0.1ppm would be closer to the same than you'd think even for a low starting ppm. Because I would assume the net ppm O2 reduced in each purge would be lower with a lower starting O2 concentration, especially in the first few purges. Does that make sense, or am I talking out of my ass? The latter is definitely possible.
This sounds like it deserves it's own topic...I'd love to hear what those with more in depth knowledge of this sort of thing have to say.
Good point. Best not to derail this thread too much. I'd also love to hear what someone with a better knowledge of the science would say about that.
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LOL, I know what you mean.
Because it's how I roll, here it is anyway....
This explains a lot as to why my ipas loose flavor after 4 weeks even after my CO2 blanket. Thanks!
How about you, and anyone else's, experience with hop flavor lose?
Yeah, O2 is 20% concentration in atmosphere. At 20,000ppm its 2% and 2,000 it's .2%. Thinking myself that should be good enough.
The beer came out great but I'd be lying to you if I told you I could discern with my palette any distinguishable flavor contribution with so much flavor coming from the hops. The attenuation ended up being pretty low which was one of the goals for the style; leave some residual sweetness to aid in the "juicy" perception. Aesthetically I thought the beer was very pleasing. Although only the first few glasses were super cloudy, the rest of the keg has a nice haze. I played it safe with the temp on this one but as another member suggested in a previous post, I plan to do another split batch in the future so I can try a side by side at each end of the temp range. I did end up stumbling on an article where someone took part in a sensory panel to test the results at different temps:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewin...perience_with_omega_hothead_ale_oyl057_yeast/
I've been meaning to share a technique I've been using recently to cold crash with virtually no oxygen exposure. It doesn't require hooking up CO2, a second regulator, or any extra equipment other than $2 worth of drilled stoppers.
I think cold crashing this beer is important. Before I started cold crashing, I would get at least a week or two of harsh bite from suspended hop particles. Sometimes it never really went away. I would also have a bunch of sludge at the bottom of the keg when it kicked, which would mess up my beer lines, etc.
I also think avoiding oxygen exposure is very important to this style, and I'm just not OK with sucking a bunch of air into the headspace while cold crashing. Before I started doing this, I could actually see a thin dark layer of oxidized beer forming at the top of the fermentor while crashing.
So, here's what I came up with for storing some CO2 from fermentation, and feeding it back into the primary while cold crashing. I had seen some other threads on this talking about mylar balloons and all kinds of stuff, but I think this is a more elegant, sanitary approach.
Here's how it works: I start off with the blowoff tube (the yellowed one) in a normal jar or whatever. Once I am past any potential blowoff risk, but still actively fermenting, I put that hose into the top of the first jug, which starts off filled to the top with star san. The CO2 pressure pushes that star san through the jumper line into the second jug, which fills up and then just allows excess CO2 to bubble out into the atmosphere. The first jug is now full of CO2. This is what's pictured below.
When I start to cold crash, the headspace contracts, which sucks star san from the second jug back into the first, and CO2 from the first jug back into the fermentor. That fermentor is a thin-walled plastic Fermonster, and there's little enough negative pressure that it doesn't even buckle. At the end of the cold crash, the first jug is filled back up about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way.
When I'm done cold crashing, I just take the stopper out of the fermentor and hang a CO2 line in there, trickling CO2 to maintain positive pressure as the beer siphons out. There's no rush of air when I take the stopper out because there's no negative pressure. I siphon into a keg that has been filled with star san and purged with CO2, so the beer comes into no contact with oxygen.
I do all of my dry hopping loose in primary, but by cold crashing I get almost no trub or hop matter into the keg. When the keg kicks, the bottom is nearly clean.
The one thing that may be tricky is finding a double-drilled stopper. The guy at my LHBS has a drill bit in the back that does it, so he just gave me those two stoppers for $1 each. I think I've seen threads about people doing it themselves with a piece of copper pipe or something. I guess a normal drill bit doesn't work too well. The jugs are 1-gallon fermentors I had lying around.
Anyway, hope someone finds this helpful. This is the best balance I've found between (relative) simplicity and feeling like I'm doing the best I can do avoid O2 and improve my beer.
Sounds good. How are you siphoning? Co2 pushs into keg? If you can get a pic of this that would be awesome. Just not understanding getting co2 and siphoning without pulling the stopper.
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Hey everyone, I had a ton of issues with a brew similar to this style. Let's just say Murphy's Law held up for the duration of this batch for me. Pretty much from start to finish. Beer is still salvaged, but my patience is almost out.
I'm in quite the predicament right now. So I used a corny keg as my secondary vessel. Purged and pressure transferred from my primary. I had two sanitized muslin bags for dry hopping hanging from string and tied to the relief valve, anchored down by shot glasses. After 1 day in the secondary, I notice I could only see one bag tied to the relief valve, so one of my hop bags fell to the bottom of the keg. Not a huge deal, instead of just lifting my dry hop bags out and carbonating, I pressure transferred over to the final purged keg. As I was transferring (3-4psi) I noticed a stoppage in flow. I immediately thought the hop bag was clogging the dip tube. right when I went to detach the liquid out disconnect to stop the transfer, I heard a pop and could see a ton of sediment coming through. Luckily I stopped it a second after the pop. So now I have an exploded muslin bag at the bottom of my secondary. I was able to transfer about half of the keg over. I ordered a filter earlier this week, so my options are..
1. wait for the filter and filter inline between the secondary and the final keg, adding into the already transferred beer. I've been reading that this could increase oxidation in these NEIPA's so I'm not sure about this. I would do a closed transfer, transferring sanitizer solution through the filter with co2 before transferring the beer.
2. remove the dip tube and put nylon or some sort of screen over it and transfer the rest immediately
3. Carb up the one keg and keep the second half of the batch separate. Since this half is mostly free of hop sediment and the burn from the fines, I'm worried that adding on top of this would decrease the quality of the beer.
4. Alternate idea that I haven't thought of.
I really want to salvage the 2ish gallons that are in the secondary. FYI roughly 3 ounces of hops were in that bag so it is murky!
Right now both kegs are purged with co2 and sitting sealed.
What are your thoughts on keeping the batch split into two? I have keg space and tap space, so they aren't issues. Let me know what you think my path forward should be. Tonight I'll either be filter transferring into the already transferred keg, or filter transferring into a new keg.
Sorry for the novel..
I'm in quite the predicament right now. So I used a corny keg as my secondary vessel. Purged and pressure transferred from my primary. I had two sanitized muslin bags for dry hopping hanging from string and tied to the relief valve, anchored down by shot glasses. After 1 day in the secondary, I notice I could only see one bag tied to the relief valve, so one of my hop bags fell to the bottom of the keg. Not a huge deal, instead of just lifting my dry hop bags out and carbonating, I pressure transferred over to the final purged keg. As I was transferring (3-4psi) I noticed a stoppage in flow. I immediately thought the hop bag was clogging the dip tube. right when I went to detach the liquid out disconnect to stop the transfer, I heard a pop and could see a ton of sediment coming through. Luckily I stopped it a second after the pop. So now I have an exploded muslin bag at the bottom of my secondary. I was able to transfer about half of the keg over. I ordered a filter earlier this week, so my options are..
1. wait for the filter and filter inline between the secondary and the final keg, adding into the already transferred beer. I've been reading that this could increase oxidation in these NEIPA's so I'm not sure about this. I would do a closed transfer, transferring sanitizer solution through the filter with co2 before transferring the beer.
2. remove the dip tube and put nylon or some sort of screen over it and transfer the rest immediately
3. Carb up the one keg and keep the second half of the batch separate. Since this half is mostly free of hop sediment and the burn from the fines, I'm worried that adding on top of this would decrease the quality of the beer.
4. Alternate idea that I haven't thought of.
I really want to salvage the 2ish gallons that are in the secondary. FYI roughly 3 ounces of hops were in that bag so it is murky!
Right now both kegs are purged with co2 and sitting sealed.
What are your thoughts on keeping the batch split into two? I have keg space and tap space, so they aren't issues. Let me know what you think my path forward should be. Tonight I'll either be filter transferring into the already transferred keg, or filter transferring into a new keg.
Sorry for the novel..
OP
OP
Honestly - if you have 3ish gallons of good beer in one keg already, I would count my blessings and leave that 3 gallons alone. As for the the 2 gallons left in the other keg...... I would cold crash it to get as much out of suspension as possible and then try your filtering technique to jump it to its own keg, or even siphon it out of the main keg opening if you have to. But, I personally would not risk turning all 5 gallons into mediocre or worse beer.
Just about anyone who has made enough of these has a story or two about plugged kegs/posts/difficult transfers/etc...... I have been there myself.
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That's what I'm leaning towards. Thanks for the feedback
BTW I just checked out your NE IPA recipe and it is eerily similar to the one I'm working with now. The only difference is I used WY1318 and a 40/40 2row/maris otter ratio and slightly more oats. My Chloride to sulfate ratio is also slightly less than yours, but the hop schedule is almost identical! This is my first stab at this style, so I'm hoping it turns out well.
BTW I just checked out your NE IPA recipe and it is eerily similar to the one I'm working with now. The only difference is I used WY1318 and a 40/40 2row/maris otter ratio and slightly more oats. My Chloride to sulfate ratio is also slightly less than yours, but the hop schedule is almost identical! This is my first stab at this style, so I'm hoping it turns out well.
armenianbrewer
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Just went back to your updated main post addendum or whatever you want to call it and noticed your link for the transferring to CO2 purged dry hopping keg link is dead.. any chance you have a working link? definitely want to consider this
http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html
The author likely edited the title which therefore messed with the URL
bigmunchez
Active Member
I'm gonna brew something very similar to this tomorrow - just wondering, has anyone tried to brew it with a kolsch strain? I'm planning to use 2565 in mine.
That could be really good. Curious to hear how that turns out - I might give that a try soon
Going back to back weekends as my kegs are empty and my stash of Trillium is just about gone
Kegging last Saturdays batch tomorrow morning, will hit it with the quick carb tomorrow night and hope to drink Sunday. That is a Mosaic focused beer with galaxy, exp grapefruit and citra accents. This week will be a Citra focused beer with El Dorado and mosaic accents. Both bittered with Columbus. Also mixing in some flaked wheat and reducing the flaked out as I only have about 4oz left. Hoping to get my boil better so I end up with more beer in the kegs, adding more water this time and going to try a roller boil. I usually just crank the thing but I am losing a TON of water each brew day so hoping to reign that in a little this time.
Kegging last Saturdays batch tomorrow morning, will hit it with the quick carb tomorrow night and hope to drink Sunday. That is a Mosaic focused beer with galaxy, exp grapefruit and citra accents. This week will be a Citra focused beer with El Dorado and mosaic accents. Both bittered with Columbus. Also mixing in some flaked wheat and reducing the flaked out as I only have about 4oz left. Hoping to get my boil better so I end up with more beer in the kegs, adding more water this time and going to try a roller boil. I usually just crank the thing but I am losing a TON of water each brew day so hoping to reign that in a little this time.
So I've made a few of these now. So easy to keep the grain bill, change up the hops a little, maybe try a new strain of yeast, and baam, another great tasting beer. Makes sense how all the NE style breweries crank out so many diff kind every couple of weeks.
I agree once you get your process and base malt locked in, should be easy to keep cranking out tasty beers. At least that's the hope.
OP
OP
Yep - I brew this probably 3 times per month at least. 1 or 2 of them are the post #1418 recipe and then I play around with something a touch different here and there. A keg almost never survives more than 2-3 weeks on tap. Wife kicked a keg yesterday serving it to the guys putting solar panels on our house, put a new keg on tap last night that I had brewed two weeks ago, another one in the fermenter and brewing another tomorrow..... so it goes.
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Has anyone used Bravo as an NEIPA hop?
I've never used it but the recent Hop Chronical article on it makes me think it might fit.
In fact I'm considering an ABC blend: Azacca, Bravo, Citra.
I've never used it but the recent Hop Chronical article on it makes me think it might fit.
In fact I'm considering an ABC blend: Azacca, Bravo, Citra.
plazola86
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Used Funk Weapon#2 yeast. Hopped with equal parts mosaic, citra, azzaca. Aroma has the classic funk Brett smell. The taste is a good combo of hop juice and Brett funk/tartness. Me best one yet!! If your curious about this yeast try it you won't be disappointed!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1492296711.825210.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1492296711.825210.jpg
tlucarelli
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First attempt. Made some mistakes but still very drinkable. Can't wait to fix my mistakes and give it a 2nd go
View attachment 1492297266725.jpg
View attachment 1492297266725.jpg
OP
OP
I was just going to repost an update on my version of this too.... so..... I put it in primary for 4 weeks or so and sampled it. It was great. Let it sit for another week to ensure that gravity was stable. Tasted it again and it was horrendous..... acetone/finger nail polish remover/hot alcohol. Almost dumped it on the spot. Decided to let it sit again. Poured a sample today (about 3 weeks since the "acetone" sample). It was really good again. Not sure what to make of that period. But, I am bottling it tomorrow. It is distinctly a brett IPA....for sure. However, it is quite good, and I am hoping it will get even better in the bottle.
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Sorry, Brett IPA?
Not for me. Sounds awful.
To each his own.
Not for me. Sounds awful.
To each his own.
OP
OP
It isn't as good as aa normal IPA (in my opinion). However, I tend to brew more than I can drink, and sometimes I want to brew....... but really don't need more beer "now." So, I like brewing some things from time to time that can age. This was a split brew day with a friend - Citra Saison, and Funky IPA.... splitting both batches.
This is the first time I used a full brett/funk fermentation. I have been playing around with brewing saisons with a regular saison yeast, and then bottling them with Brett C. It eats the remaining sugar, dries it out, produces high carbonation, subtle brett flavors, and Brett C. produces a tart/fruity aspect..... It has produced some really great saisons for me.
This particular IPA used Funk Weapon #2 from Bootleg Biology - billed as producing fruity brett flavors in IPA's - we shall see.
EndOfLine
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This past week I was at the craft beer conference in DC, and was able to get my hands on "extra strength" hop pellets. Specifically Citra and palisades, about 25% and 15% AA. This is not hop hash nor hop dust from what I can tell.
Citra ofc is amazing. I have not used palisades in like 7 years tho. I wonder what the combo will taste like.
Citra ofc is amazing. I have not used palisades in like 7 years tho. I wonder what the combo will taste like.
ultravista
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marjen - looks good. I too am brewing my first NEIPA today.
plazola86
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Fruity esters mixed with fruity hops. It's horrendous I can't stop drinking it trying to get rid of it as fast as possible.
plazola86
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I was just going to repost an update on my version of this too.... so..... I put it in primary for 4 weeks or so and sampled it. It was great. Let it sit for another week to ensure that gravity was stable. Tasted it again and it was horrendous..... acetone/finger nail polish remover/hot alcohol. Almost dumped it on the spot. Decided to let it sit again. Poured a sample today (about 3 weeks since the "acetone" sample). It was really good again. Not sure what to make of that period. But, I am bottling it tomorrow. It is distinctly a brett IPA....for sure. However, it is quite good, and I am hoping it will get even better in the bottle.
I left mine in the primary for 4 weeks before kegging and force carbing. Tasted it at 2 weeks and it had a slight apple cider vinegar taste that didn't carry over to the finished beer I had yesterday. Never got the acetone flavor though. Brett will probably just keep on changing flavors the longer you keep it. I'm digging this yeast.
OP
OP
They can't all be cloudy German Pilsner that I screwed up by accidentally throwing an ounce of Citra in at flame out (I was doing a few too many beer chores at once and got my hops mixed up.) By the way, I recommend screwing up your next pilsner with an ounce of citra
German Pilsner that I screwed up by accidentally throwing an ounce of Citra in at flame out (I was doing a few too many beer chores at once and got my hops mixed up.) By the way, I recommend screwing up your next pilsner with an ounce of citra
armenianbrewer
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So did my own little version of this recipe on Friday and wanted to share what I did (and plan to do for the dry hops/kegging):
In Braufessor's updated post #1418, he went with:
60min 0.75 oz warrior
flameout 3.0 oz of citra/mosaic/galaxy
whirlpool 3.0 oz of citra/mosaic/galaxy @160deg
dry hop1 3.0 oz of 3:2:1 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy
dry hop2 3.0 oz of 3:2:1 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy
which is 12.75 oz of hops
in my case I went with the following:
FWH 0.50 oz warrior
flameout 4 oz of 1:1:1:1 amarillo/citra/mosaic/galaxy (whole leaf amarillo)
whirlpool 4 oz of 1:1:1:1 amarillo/citra/mosaic/galaxy (whole leaf amarillo) @160deg
dry hop1 2.5 oz of 1:1:0.5 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy (day 3, about 60 hours post pitch)
dry hop2 2.5 oz of 1:1:0.5 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy (3 days before transferring from primary to keg, adding a little priming sugar to get yeast going just a little bit to scrub any oxygen that may enter during dry hopping, just not sure how much I'll add)
in total my batch will have used 14.5 oz of hops, a little bit more but hoping it doesn't turn out more bitter than I want
Also I'll add I went with the same exact boil volume start, final kettle final volume, and final fermenter volume as braufessor's recipe but the only difference was a slight chance in the grain bill:
5 lb, Golden Promise, 40%
5 lb, Maris Otter Pale, 40%
1.5 lb, Flaked Oats, 12%
0.5 lb, White Wheat, 4%
0.5 lb, Honey Malt, 4%
Will keep everyone updated on how this goes... also I don't have temp control so pitched around 65-66 deg and it's currently now sitting at 68 according to my SS brew bucket thermometer
In Braufessor's updated post #1418, he went with:
60min 0.75 oz warrior
flameout 3.0 oz of citra/mosaic/galaxy
whirlpool 3.0 oz of citra/mosaic/galaxy @160deg
dry hop1 3.0 oz of 3:2:1 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy
dry hop2 3.0 oz of 3:2:1 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy
which is 12.75 oz of hops
in my case I went with the following:
FWH 0.50 oz warrior
flameout 4 oz of 1:1:1:1 amarillo/citra/mosaic/galaxy (whole leaf amarillo)
whirlpool 4 oz of 1:1:1:1 amarillo/citra/mosaic/galaxy (whole leaf amarillo) @160deg
dry hop1 2.5 oz of 1:1:0.5 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy (day 3, about 60 hours post pitch)
dry hop2 2.5 oz of 1:1:0.5 ratio of citra/mosaic/galaxy (3 days before transferring from primary to keg, adding a little priming sugar to get yeast going just a little bit to scrub any oxygen that may enter during dry hopping, just not sure how much I'll add)
in total my batch will have used 14.5 oz of hops, a little bit more but hoping it doesn't turn out more bitter than I want
Also I'll add I went with the same exact boil volume start, final kettle final volume, and final fermenter volume as braufessor's recipe but the only difference was a slight chance in the grain bill:
5 lb, Golden Promise, 40%
5 lb, Maris Otter Pale, 40%
1.5 lb, Flaked Oats, 12%
0.5 lb, White Wheat, 4%
0.5 lb, Honey Malt, 4%
Will keep everyone updated on how this goes... also I don't have temp control so pitched around 65-66 deg and it's currently now sitting at 68 according to my SS brew bucket thermometer
This is very similar to what I planned on brewing next. I just did a galaxy, amarillo, citra 1:1.5:1.5; all post boil additions.
Keep us updated!
OP
OP
Ok...... changed my mind a bit..... the Brett IPA is actually really good. Just bottled it all up and a little left over. Have to see how it carbs up and conditions. @Cavpilot2000 and @schematix ..... might have to send you a bottle as I was skeptical as well, but this turned out (so far) to be very fruity and drinkable.
plazola86
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Its crazy just how much fruity esters this yeast gives out. I got pineapple, apple flavors. My wife got apricot, pear flavors from it. I let it warm up a bit and it got sweeter tasting with a bit of cherry tartness. What got me is the aroma versus the flavor. The aroma is definitely Brett funkiness but the taste is sweet fruit.
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Now THAT sounds delicious!They can't all be cloudy
I've been considering screwing up my next Pils with a late addition Mandarina Bavaria.
Cavpilot2000
Well-Known Member
Well, I am always open to being proven wrong.
My experience with Brett beers (only a few, so I don't have much for data points) has not been good. Too much funky/horsy stuff going on, but if you've found a way to make it work, more power to you.
mintyice
Well-Known Member
Glad you tried it out!
Tarpon87
Well-Known Member
Thinking about doing a different take on this for the next go around, tell me what you think.
5gal batch
RO water built up
12lbs Bestmalz Red X
1.5lbs Flaked Oats
1.5lbs Flaked Wheat
.5lbs Honey Malt
.75oz Warrior @60 (I know a lot have done away with this but I like the 60min bittering addition)
1oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ flameout
1oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ 170 whirlpool for 30 min
1oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ dry hop around day 2
1.5oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ dry hop day 7
Other than Warrior I haven't used any of these hops before but looking to do something different than the citrus profile (although it is delicious). Do you guys think this would work out ok?
5gal batch
RO water built up
12lbs Bestmalz Red X
1.5lbs Flaked Oats
1.5lbs Flaked Wheat
.5lbs Honey Malt
.75oz Warrior @60 (I know a lot have done away with this but I like the 60min bittering addition)
1oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ flameout
1oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ 170 whirlpool for 30 min
1oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ dry hop around day 2
1.5oz each Belma, El Dorado, Huell Melon @ dry hop day 7
Other than Warrior I haven't used any of these hops before but looking to do something different than the citrus profile (although it is delicious). Do you guys think this would work out ok?
100% Brett fermentations actually come out quite clean compared to mixed culture fermentations with Sac & Brett. I have a IIPA on tap at the moment fermented with All the Bretts from Omega. You likely wouldn't even know it's a Brett beer if you weren't told.
There is something to be said about mixed-culture IPA's as well. I'm drinking a few right now that were done with Omega's Bit O' Funk and Bring On Da Funk. Those are tasty as well IMO but if you've decided the funky notes aren't for you, probably not your thing.
I started tinkering with Brett in hop forward beers after listening to a Sour Hour podcast with Chad Yakobson. Going from memory but in a nutshell, he talked about how Brett can metabolize compounds contributed by the hops and turn them into other flavors and aromas that are also pleasant such as pineapple.
Brewed a 5 gallon batch on Saturday night and pitched 1098 at 68 degrees. I've got 2.5oz mix of citra and mosaic ready to toss on the beer, but I'm trying to figure out the best time to do so.
The beer has finally shown signs of a good krausen, and I'm thinking about throwing the dry hops in tomorrow morning (about 12 hours from now). Anyone have any thoughts on that plan?
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1492481452.215288.jpg
The beer has finally shown signs of a good krausen, and I'm thinking about throwing the dry hops in tomorrow morning (about 12 hours from now). Anyone have any thoughts on that plan?
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1492481452.215288.jpg
armenianbrewer
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So I'm not sure what I was thinking but I did the dry hop 1 a day ahead of schedule! Though I pitched with 3 month old pack and no starter, last evening to this morning has been what I'd see visibly as the height of fermentation but I tossed the dry hops in yesterday morning... oops. I should be okay and it shouldn't scrub out too much of the delicious hop flavors will it? I'm trying to get the timing of this biotransformation hop perfect but I think I did it a good 36 hours too soon
On the other hand, I did want to mention I did this batch with RO built up with ~1 tsp of CaCl + ~1/2 tsp Gypsum per 5 gallons of mash and again for sparge (actually measured it out to grams per gallon of my exact process but I dont have my notes on me at the moment)
Also I pitched around 66, but this morning I saw it at 71.5 degrees according to my brew bucket thermowell probe so I threw a couple of big wet towels around it and a box fan to cool it off... how does this yeast do in the low 70s? Anyone know?
