New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I've been thinking about conditioning time a lot. These beers really need time to condition, and Henry from Monkish mentioned on CB&B podcast that they don't sell their IPA's until day ~30 after brewing.

Does anyone else see their hoppy beers hit their stride around 4 weeks after brewing?
Couldn't agree more. It's 4-5 weeks for me when they peak. When I started brewing this style I saw the grain to glass in 10 days or so and was rushing mine. I really take my time with them and is definitely paying off. I'm at about 2.5-3 weeks depending on my schedule before it goes into the serving keg.
 
View attachment 674304

12.5 lb 2 row
3 lb Flaked oats
0.75 lb Wheat
0.3 lb Honey malt

0.7 oz Warrior 60 min
4 oz Mosaic whirlpool (30 min 170 degrees)
4 oz Mosaic dry hop
2 oz Amarillo dry hop
2 oz Vic Secret dry hop

Imperial Barbarian

Peach, mango, pineapple, pine and a hint of melon in the aroma. Flavor has some strong dankness upfront with more peach, mango, pineapple, pine and a bit of berry/vanilla smoothness in the background. Overall I'm enjoying this combination - it definitely has a lot going on but it works relatively well. My only complaint is that this beer took a full 4 weeks in the keg to start hitting its stride (I'm looking at you Vic Secret).

I am going to try one of your NEIPA's.
How would you describe the bitterness of your recipe? Is it to the sweet or bitter side? I like it sweet, but still with all the fruit-flavor.
 
Sits in the keg. I have a conical so it never sits on the yeast for extended periods of time. But overall I think not rushing any one step in the process leads to a better product.

Sounds like semantics then, grain to glass in 2 weeks doesn’t mean all the beers gone. Fermentation is over by day 5 at the latest with just about all strains. Dry hopping shouldn’t last a week, I think we can all agree on that. Finished product by two weeks, maturation in the keg while carbonating. That’s not rushing, that’s good decision making!

Couldn't agree more. It's 4-5 weeks for me when they peak. When I started brewing this style I saw the grain to glass in 10 days or so and was rushing mine. I really take my time with them and is definitely paying off. I'm at about 2.5-3 weeks depending on my schedule before it goes into the serving keg.

If it peaks at 4-5 weeks, then it’s downhill from there. Why not enjoy the improvement on the way up too?
 
Sounds like semantics then, grain to glass in 2 weeks doesn’t mean all the beers gone. Fermentation is over by day 5 at the latest with just about all strains. Dry hopping shouldn’t last a week, I think we can all agree on that. Finished product by two weeks, maturation in the keg while carbonating. That’s not rushing, that’s good decision making!



If it peaks at 4-5 weeks, then it’s downhill from there. Why not enjoy the improvement on the way up too?
For me conditioning is based on the beer. All my Ipas get kegged by day 10-14. Few beers are solid and ready on keg day. Most are perfect in another week or two. Very few beers need to condition longer than that. So 4 weeks from keg day shouldn’t occur unless it’s got hopburn out the ass, but 4 weeks from grain, probably within the typical range for me
 
Sounds like semantics then, grain to glass in 2 weeks doesn’t mean all the beers gone. Fermentation is over by day 5 at the latest with just about all strains. Dry hopping shouldn’t last a week, I think we can all agree on that. Finished product by two weeks, maturation in the keg while carbonating. That’s not rushing, that’s good decision making!



If it peaks at 4-5 weeks, then it’s downhill from there. Why not enjoy the improvement on the way up too?
I’m usually a little over two weeks after letting it rest a couple days post fermentation, soft crash, DH, cold crash.... and even if it’s in the keg on day 14 it’s going to taste much better on day 21, and more than likely even better on day 28. When I hear grain to glass I think finished product that you’d be happy to share with friends.
 
What if we could speed up conditioning time by upping the temps to 12c as cloudwater does?
Anyone tested this out? It seems to me something happens to the hop oils. They go from raw to smooth.
 
I can drink mine on keg day as i use a floating dip tube and they are pretty good with no hop burn as i dry hop at 60F but by the two week point in the keg they really shine and gives the true interpretation of the beer. I like sampling along the way to plot the evolution of the beer.
 
I am going to try one of your NEIPA's.
How would you describe the bitterness of your recipe? Is it to the sweet or bitter side? I like it sweet, but still with all the fruit-flavor.

I'm really just following Braufessor's recipe with some small tweaks. I would say my NEIPA skews just slightly to the bitter end for the style. I calculate 30 IBUs from the boil and 50 including whirlpool. You may want to decrease the bittering addition to 20 IBUs or so. The Mosaic/Amarillo/Vic Secret recipe was good, but the one below was my best. I don't think it makes a huge difference whether you use all 2 row or 2 row + GP, or whether you use honey malt or crystal 15.

6 gal

6.25 lb 2 row
6.25 lb Golden Promise
3 lb Flaked Oats
0.75 lb Wheat
0.3 lb Crystal 15

0.7 oz Warrior 60 min
3 oz Citra whirlpool (30 min 170 degrees)
3 oz Mosaic whirlpool (30 min 170 degrees)
4 oz Citra dry hop
3 oz Amarillo dry hop
1 oz Galaxy dry hop

Imperial Juice

75:150 sulfate:chloride
mash temp = 154
mash pH = 5.2

O.G. = 1.071
F.G. = 1.017
 
in case you were wondering if you can do a 60 minute boil and 1 hr hop stand with lid on with Best Pilsen Malt and avoid DMS. YES is the answer, at least for a 1.058 OG and 150F hop stand. *relief!*
 
For me conditioning is based on the beer. All my Ipas get kegged by day 10-14. Few beers are solid and ready on keg day. Most are perfect in another week or two. Very few beers need to condition longer than that. So 4 weeks from keg day shouldn’t occur unless it’s got hopburn out the ass, but 4 weeks from grain, probably within the typical range for me

10-14 days is my heuristic as well.
 
I have hit terminal gravity on my latest hazy. I’ve been using my house grain bill and experimenting with different hops/schedules, and different yeasts. This batch I used:

White Labs WLP013
Mosaic, Columbus, and Motueka

42E52FC4-6135-4E4E-A5EC-BBE3D528B043.jpeg
 
For me conditioning is based on the beer. All my Ipas get kegged by day 10-14. Few beers are solid and ready on keg day. Most are perfect in another week or two. Very few beers need to condition longer than that. So 4 weeks from keg day shouldn’t occur unless it’s got hopburn out the ass, but 4 weeks from grain, probably within the typical range for me
In my very limited home brewing experience (10 were NEIPAs), I think that all were very drinkable at kegging, but notice the most improvement at about 5days after kegging and carbonating. It seems to be a "magical" turn of events at about 5days after. So after a week after kegging, they are great for me and continue to improve until about the second week after kegging.
 
I'm really just following Braufessor's recipe with some small tweaks. I would say my NEIPA skews just slightly to the bitter end for the style. I calculate 30 IBUs from the boil and 50 including whirlpool. You may want to decrease the bittering addition to 20 IBUs or so. The Mosaic/Amarillo/Vic Secret recipe was good, but the one below was my best. I don't think it makes a huge difference whether you use all 2 row or 2 row + GP, or whether you use honey malt or crystal 15.

6 gal

6.25 lb 2 row
6.25 lb Golden Promise
3 lb Flaked Oats
0.75 lb Wheat
0.3 lb Crystal 15

0.7 oz Warrior 60 min
3 oz Citra whirlpool (30 min 170 degrees)
3 oz Mosaic whirlpool (30 min 170 degrees)
4 oz Citra dry hop
3 oz Amarillo dry hop
1 oz Galaxy dry hop

Imperial Juice

75:150 sulfate:chloride
mash temp = 154
mash pH = 5.2

O.G. = 1.071
F.G. = 1.017

haha this is very similar to my own recipe, minus small tweaks. My base malt is all GP.
 
It’s good but it will eventually clear. I used it for a Psuedo Sue clone and the beer cleared on me after a few weeks. Still a great yeast, but if your stuck on the appearance for this style you may want to go another route. I just ordered Imperial Dry hop and can’t wait to give it a spin. Imperial Juice has been my go to.
 
It’s good but it will eventually clear. I used it for a Psuedo Sue clone and the beer cleared on me after a few weeks. Still a great yeast, but if your stuck on the appearance for this style you may want to go another route. I just ordered Imperial Dry hop and can’t wait to give it a spin. Imperial Juice has been my go to.
I love A24 dry hop. I’ve tried barbarian (Conan) which makes up 50% of a24 but not as good imo. Haven’t tried juice yet. A24 has very nice esters but not overbearing although I haven’t pushed the temps or underpitched more as much as others have on it to get even more esters. It’s a great compliment to the hops for this style imo.
 
It’s good but it will eventually clear. I used it for a Psuedo Sue clone and the beer cleared on me after a few weeks. Still a great yeast, but if your stuck on the appearance for this style you may want to go another route. I just ordered Imperial Dry hop and can’t wait to give it a spin. Imperial Juice has been my go to.

That hasn't been my experience at all. S04 is my go to for NEIPA. After having tried Conan, 1318, 644, A24 I found I liked S04 the best, it seemed to present the hops in the best way. In ~10 batches using S04 I haven't had any batch clear with some sitting in the keg (cold) for up to 2-3 months.

I belive the rest of the process is also an important factor in whether a batch might clear or not. I always use irish moss and since a few batches back I always cold crash before dry hopping. Also, I don't use any flaked grains.
 
I love A24 dry hop. I’ve tried barbarian (Conan) which makes up 50% of a24 but not as good imo. Haven’t tried juice yet. A24 has very nice esters but not overbearing although I haven’t pushed the temps or underpitched more as much as others have on it to get even more esters. It’s a great compliment to the hops for this style imo.

I'm curious how much A24 to pitch for a 5 gallon batch to get significant esters. I'll usually propagate 1oz of slurry into a 1L starter then pitch but I have to say the esters are still relatively low.
 
In my very limited home brewing experience (10 were NEIPAs), I think that all were very drinkable at kegging, but notice the most improvement at about 5days after kegging and carbonating. It seems to be a "magical" turn of events at about 5days after. So after a week after kegging, they are great for me and continue to improve until about the second week after kegging.
Is that where they stabilize or go down hill?
 
Is that where they stabilize or go down hill?
With my limited experience I’ve noticed a continued improvement until about week two after keg and then it’s stable for rest of way. Although my legs have all been kicked somewhere between weeks 4-5 after kegging at the longest and most are kicked around week 3if I’m sharing lots which I do. None of my NEIPAs have cleared one bit but once they are kegged, I put them into keezer and they don’t move again until empty.
 
I have hit terminal gravity on my latest hazy. I’ve been using my house grain bill and experimenting with different hops/schedules, and different yeasts. This batch I used:

White Labs WLP013
Mosaic, Columbus, and Motueka

View attachment 675411
Care to share your grain bill? That color looks incredible.
 
That hasn't been my experience at all. S04 is my go to for NEIPA. After having tried Conan, 1318, 644, A24 I found I liked S04 the best, it seemed to present the hops in the best way. In ~10 batches using S04 I haven't had any batch clear with some sitting in the keg (cold) for up to 2-3 months.

I belive the rest of the process is also an important factor in whether a batch might clear or not. I always use irish moss and since a few batches back I always cold crash before dry hopping. Also, I don't use any flaked grains.


I stand corrected, just looked back at my recipe and used "A01 House yeast" not S04. Sorry for the confusion, for some reason i swore i used S04. Here is the beer that I was referring to that cleared using House yeast and only 1lb flaked oats. I now used Imperial Juice and more malted oats & white wheat with much better results.

img_5877-jpg.626545
 
I've used a S-04 blend. As with 1318 and other yeasts, if you pitch a high cell count, it gives you a pretty decent ale.

If you severely underpitch it, it gives you the estery goodness of a great NEIPA. 1318 is really, really good when under-pitched, though. S-04 doesn't shine nearly as bright, but maybe I still haven't dialed it back enough.
 
I'm curious how much A24 to pitch for a 5 gallon batch to get significant esters. I'll usually propagate 1oz of slurry into a 1L starter then pitch but I have to say the esters are still relatively low.
The way you’re doing it would be very difficult to calculate your pitch rate. Are you using 1oz of slurry from the pack or from a harvest? Sounds to me like you are underpitching by too big of a scale
 
Sure!

66.9% Golden Promise
20.1% Flaked Oats
8.4% White Wheat
2.5% Honey Malt
2.1% Acid malt (for ph adjustments)

I shoot for a Mash PH of 5.1 to 5.3.
Just curious if you have done a mash Ph between 5.3-5.4ish. Ive always targeted to get under 5.4 and usually hit 5.35. From what Ive read, lower Ph in the 5.2 range will give more fermentable wort but a thinner body whereas 5.3-5.4 will help with the mouthfeel/fuller body. I haven't targeted a lower Ph yet in the range you are using so was just curious if you have done it both ways yourself and perceived any difference in mouthfeel.
 
My new favorite malt bill for these IPAs is

80% Great Western Pale Malt
20% Best Wheat Malt

If I go higher than like 1.070 or so I add sugar instead of malt to get the higher gravity.

It's very simple but it really makes a nice beer. Nothing in the way of the hops, some sweetness in the finish but pretty dry overall. I'm really moving away from any character malts like caramel or honey or aromatic. They can be good once in awhile, but I like this most of the time.

I've also done it with Rahr and don't like that quite as much - seems too malty over a certain OG somehow. Briess is also awesome. I was surprised, as a lot of people complain about Briess or used to anyway. It's great malt. Just a 50# sack instead of 55ish# for most maltsters, so it's not as cost effective if the brew store sells them both for the same price...
 
Just curious if you have done a mash Ph between 5.3-5.4ish. Ive always targeted to get under 5.4 and usually hit 5.35. From what Ive read, lower Ph in the 5.2 range will give more fermentable wort but a thinner body whereas 5.3-5.4 will help with the mouthfeel/fuller body. I haven't targeted a lower Ph yet in the range you are using so was just curious if you have done it both ways yourself and perceived any difference in mouthfeel.

Over the last (almost) two years, I’ve been brewing and experimenting with hazy IPAs with yeast, mash temps, water chemistry, PH, and hop pairing/schedule.

some things I found was that lower mash temps (148F) and lower ph made for juicer beers, but lacked on head retention. As I’m digging into Scott Janish’s book, there’s so many variables to making these beers great. I still made good beers at 5.3-5.4 Ph and higher mash temps (up to 156), but those beers weren’t as juicy. Surprisingly, high or low temp mashes did not change mouthfeel (which I found fascinating).

Of course, your experience can, and will, vary differently than mine. I would recommend you running some experiments yourself and take some notes on what you learn.
 
Over the last (almost) two years, I’ve been brewing and experimenting with hazy IPAs with yeast, mash temps, water chemistry, PH, and hop pairing/schedule.

some things I found was that lower mash temps (148F) and lower ph made for juicer beers, but lacked on head retention. As I’m digging into Scott Janish’s book, there’s so many variables to making these beers great. I still made good beers at 5.3-5.4 Ph and higher mash temps (up to 156), but those beers weren’t as juicy. Surprisingly, high or low temp mashes did not change mouthfeel (which I found fascinating).

Of course, your experience can, and will, vary differently than mine. I would recommend you running some experiments yourself and take some notes on what you learn.

Interesting.. I know that mashing at 154 or higher can improve head retention by leaving longer dextrin chains. What do you speculate leads to juicier beer at lower mash temps? You would usually get lower FG/less sweetness at lower mash temps, but not sure how that relates?

P.S. I currently feel like higher sweetness is part of the juiciness I seek, so I have settled at a target FG of 1.020.
.
 
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Over the last (almost) two years, I’ve been brewing and experimenting with hazy IPAs with yeast, mash temps, water chemistry, PH, and hop pairing/schedule.

some things I found was that lower mash temps (148F) and lower ph made for juicer beers, but lacked on head retention. As I’m digging into Scott Janish’s book, there’s so many variables to making these beers great. I still made good beers at 5.3-5.4 Ph and higher mash temps (up to 156), but those beers weren’t as juicy. Surprisingly, high or low temp mashes did not change mouthfeel (which I found fascinating).

Of course, your experience can, and will, vary differently than mine. I would recommend you running some experiments yourself and take some notes on what you learn.
Yup agreed with experiences varying from person to person as so many variables are in play here. While you've been experimenting with Hazys for about 2 years, Ive only been brewing for 3 months lol. Most all of my beers (Ive brewed 11 now) have been NEIPAs as Im sticking to one style while I learn brewing in general and learning my own system. For the first 4-5 NEIPAs, I was mashing at 152 with the mash Ph target of just under 5.4 and I generally hit 5.35ish. Those beers finished at 1.011-1.012 and while I didn't think they were necessarily "dry" I did think they were a bit "thin" and wanted a fuller mouthfeel. So ever since batch #6, Ive mashed at 154 and like clock work they finished at 1.013-1.014 with the same mash Ph (5.35ish). For me, the beers mashed at 154 and finished at about 1.014 were juicier with a fuller mouthfeel than the beers mashed at 152 and finishing lower at 1.012. So your comment about mash Ph in the 5.2 range intrigued me. Have you actually mashed higher but with lower mash Ph (5.2ish)? Your comments suggest you manipulated both at the same time which is why I was really asking I think. Nevertheless, I may try mashing at 154 but lower the Ph a little to the 5.2 range. Unsure if this will change the perceived mouthfeel which is what Im predominately interested in right now. Haven't even looked at head retention yet beyond grain bill choices. thanks for your response!
 
Yup agreed with experiences varying from person to person as so many variables are in play here. While you've been experimenting with Hazys for about 2 years, Ive only been brewing for 3 months lol. Most all of my beers (Ive brewed 11 now) have been NEIPAs as Im sticking to one style while I learn brewing in general and learning my own system. For the first 4-5 NEIPAs, I was mashing at 152 with the mash Ph target of just under 5.4 and I generally hit 5.35ish. Those beers finished at 1.011-1.012 and while I didn't think they were necessarily "dry" I did think they were a bit "thin" and wanted a fuller mouthfeel. So ever since batch #6, Ive mashed at 154 and like clock work they finished at 1.013-1.014 with the same mash Ph (5.35ish). For me, the beers mashed at 154 and finished at about 1.014 were juicier with a fuller mouthfeel than the beers mashed at 152 and finishing lower at 1.012. So your comment about mash Ph in the 5.2 range intrigued me. Have you actually mashed higher but with lower mash Ph (5.2ish)? Your comments suggest you manipulated both at the same time which is why I was really asking I think. Nevertheless, I may try mashing at 154 but lower the Ph a little to the 5.2 range. Unsure if this will change the perceived mouthfeel which is what Im predominately interested in right now. Haven't even looked at head retention yet beyond grain bill choices. thanks for your response!

Absolutely! I may have also misspoken now that I’m looking at my notes. My wort was 5.3 going into the kettle. I mashed at 154, and I’m sitting at TG of 1.016 (1.057 OG). My fermented beer ph is 4.27. I also adjusted my water chemistry a bit for this batch as well. I’m kegging it sometime this week and excited to try it.
 
Sure!

66.9% Golden Promise
20.1% Flaked Oats
8.4% White Wheat
2.5% Honey Malt
2.1% Acid malt (for ph adjustments)

I shoot for a Mash PH of 5.1 to 5.3.
Awesome, that's my identical grain bill too give or take a .1%-.2% here and there. That's very interesting about your observations of a lower ph resulting in a juicer feel. I usually shoot for 5.35 but might try and go lower on my next brew.
 
The way you’re doing it would be very difficult to calculate your pitch rate. Are you using 1oz of slurry from the pack or from a harvest? Sounds to me like you are underpitching by too big of a scale

I overbuild starters since harvesting A24 may give you a different yeast blend, then store 1-2oz of slurry for next time. Using several calculators, it looks like I'm pitching about 150 - 200b cells per 4 gallons. This is around half of what I should be pitching, but I'm not noticing crazy esters even ramping the yeast up to 75F, and my fermentation is usually finished within 5 days. Is that a good indicator that there's enough yeast in the wort?
 
I overbuild starters since harvesting A24 may give you a different yeast blend, then store 1-2oz of slurry for next time. Using several calculators, it looks like I'm pitching about 150 - 200b cells per 4 gallons. This is around half of what I should be pitching, but I'm not noticing crazy esters even ramping the yeast up to 75F, and my fermentation is usually finished within 5 days. Is that a good indicator that there's enough yeast in the wort?
I’m having a hard time following. I could just not be fully understanding what your process is

How are you calculating the starting cell count in your 1oz slurry from an overbuilt starter? This is where I’m lost I think. Is there a calculator for it that I just don’t know about?

Also based on the info you gave, 150-200 billion cells for a 4 gallon pitch would not be consider under pitching.
For a 1.065 beer (don’t know what your actual og is, I just used a typical one for the style) at 4 gallons of wort 175 billion cells would be roughly a .75 million cells/ml/p* which is a very health pitch rate (if your og is lower than my example it would raise the pitch rate and visa versa if your og is higher)To underpitch you’re looking to be around .4/.5 million cells/ml/p*. The last info I saw is that Shaun Hill is even lower than that at .35 for his strain.

**edit - Kimmich is closer to .35 not Hill**
 
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