New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

My latest NEIPA with Hornindal and Citra Cryo and Galaxy pellets. Turns out very juicy, first time using hornindal kveik strain and i think it will be my favorite strain for NEIPA's. Next batch I plan with Idaho Gem and Citra - any advices with Idaho hops?

I have only every had Idaho gem in two beers and they were my brother in laws hb (he’s a very good brewer). Our take away from it was it was very similar to el dorado with that candi like sweetness to it. First beer he used a good portion hotside and the second was primarily in dryhop. I preferred the Dryhopped version but I also am not a fan of hotside el dorado so my review may be slightly bias. I would say it’s a solid complementary hop but not the star of the show

 

[Frieds]

Poured my first pint of my Sabro/Rakau/Cashmere imperial ipa today and it was great. Noticeably different to anything I’ve made before, had a bit of a herbal aspect to it but it’s quite impressive how much Sabro stands out in such small quantities as well. I think I’m a pretty damn good hazy ipa Brewer now and this thread is definitely a testament to how good we all are.

 

[anteater8]

I have a NEIPA on tap right now with a 6oz Vic Secret dry hop. I'm getting some really interesting melon, overripe tropical fruit and pine from it. Distinctly different from anything else I've used. The downside is that it took a full 3 weeks in the keg before it was drinkable, which is a similar conditioning time to beers with Galaxy or Idaho 7. I think NEIPAs with these hops are really great once they're ready, but I question whether its worth waiting the extra week or two.

 

[SRJHops]

I have a NEIPA on tap right now with a 6oz Vic Secret dry hop. I'm getting some really interesting melon, overripe tropical fruit and pine from it. Distinctly different from anything else I've used. The downside is that it took a full 3 weeks in the keg before it was drinkable, which is a similar conditioning time to beers with Galaxy or Idaho 7. I think NEIPAs with these hops are really great once they're ready, but I question whether its worth waiting the extra week or two.

You make a good point - it can take a while for NEIPA's to peak or even be ready to drink. But keep in mind there are some beer styles that take MUCH longer to be ready.

For me the question is how much flavor can I get? If I can maximize the flavor, but have to wait a few weeks, that is OK with me. Otherwise, I might as well make a regular 'ol IPA, right?!

I think one of the myths about NEIPA's is that they have to be consumed quickly. I have actually found that mine peak after about 4 or 5 weeks of conditioning. Mine start to fade at around 7 or 8 weeks. (I bottle condition, so mileage may vary for those who keg.)

 

[Dgallo]

Don’t know if anyone missed the email but YVH has some great deals until Monday including 1# 2019 Azacca for $10. Worth checking it out https://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/category_s/2096.htm

 

[BeerFst]

Don’t know if anyone missed the email but YVH has some great deals until Monday including 1# 2019 Azacca for $10. Worth checking it out https://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/category_s/2096.htm

The cyber deal pack seemed like a solid deal...so I got one. Half pounds of Citra mosaic galaxy and sabro (all 2019) for 41 (full pounds for ~75). not to mention 2018 cascade is 3 for a half and 5 per pound....it would have been a crime not to buy that half pound for 3 bucks.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Yeah I placed a big VYH order and got that $40 cyber deal bundle and the lb of azacca and 8oz of El Dorado. I'll probably be good for deep into next year on hops. I also got a bunch of 2018 2 oz packs of stuff I use less frequently and in smaller amounts like cascade(75 cents for 2 oz pack!). I've learned I need to buy the hops I use less of in smaller packages for freshness. Last time I bought a lb of cascade it took me way too long to use it and the freshness noticeably faded.

 

[dannowatts]

Don’t know if anyone missed the email but YVH has some great deals until Monday including 1# 2019 Azacca for $10. Worth checking it out https://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/category_s/2096.htm

thanks for the heads up, dude! picked up 3 pounds to play around with!

 

[Loud Brewing]

Same here. Got some 2019 Strata, Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo, El dorado, and 6 of the 75 cent cascades. The free 40$ book was enough to make me spend the hundo.

 

[BeerFst]

Got my box today. Mistake or otherwise they threw in an extra half pound of 2018 cascade, only really a 2 dollar bonus with the sale but nifty just the same!

expecting to make some classic pales but any luck with cascade in neipa? Late got side?

 

[Loud Brewing]

Got my box today. Mistake or otherwise they threw in an extra half pound of 2018 cascade, only really a 2 dollar bonus with the sale but nifty just the same!

expecting to make some classic pales but any luck with cascade in neipa? Late got side?

Cascade is the essential OG IPA/pale hop imo. It has worked great for me in various applications including hotside for neipa. People may disagree but I think it does well in most styles. The grapefruit shines on the cold side, but it also does a good job of bittering in the kettle and also increasing those piney floral notes at flameout/whirlpool

 

[SRJHops]

So, I feel like I "cheated" on this thread. For the past two years I have ONLY brewed NEIPA's. My pals (and I) dig them, but most of my extended family finds them "too hoppy." So I decided to make them a beer they might like: a weizenbock. Wow, are they EASY to make compared to NEIPA's! Just one ounce of hops at 60 mins. That's all. What?!!! The entire grain and hops bill was less than $25 at the LHBS, instead of my usual $70 for a NEIPA.

I don't have to worry about the beer oxidizing at all... Seems like a nice break! I will even transfer it to secondary, and might even use a bottling bucket! Whoa!

I'm realizing that brewing NEIPA's can make you a better brewer overall. It's really a tough style to master, compared to many of the styles, so props to all of you who are on the journey.

Back to NEIPA's for my next brew.... I think I REALLY have the recipe and hop additions down this time! (But that's what I always think!)

 

[Dgallo]

So, I feel like I "cheated" on this thread. For the past two years I have ONLY brewed NEIPA's. My pals (and I) dig them, but most of my extended family finds them "too hoppy." So I decided to make them a beer they might like: a weizenbock. Wow, are they EASY to make compared to NEIPA's! Just one ounce of hops at 60 mins. That's all. What?!!! The entire grain and hops bill was less than $25 at the LHBS, instead of my usual $70 for a NEIPA.

I don't have to worry about the beer oxidizing at all... Seems like a nice break! I will even transfer it to secondary, and might even use a bottling bucket! Whoa!

I'm realizing that brewing NEIPA's can make you a better brewer overall. It's really a tough style to master, compared to many of the styles, so props to all of you who are on the journey.

Back to NEIPA's for my next brew.... I think I REALLY have the recipe and hop additions down this time! (But that's what I always think!)

Don’t use the secondary and bottle the way you are now. Malt compounds still oxidize and will not be as wonderful if they do

 

[leesmith]

I don't have to worry about the beer oxidizing at all... Seems like a nice break! I will even transfer it to secondary, and might even use a bottling bucket! Whoa!

I’m not familiar with the style but that’s not a good approach to any beer.

 

[SRJHops]

Don’t use the secondary and bottle the way you are now. Malt compounds still oxidize and will not be as wonderful if they do

I probably won't use the bottling bucket, but I am thinking of transferring to secondary. Three reasons:

1. Before I made NEIPA's I made some pretty tasty regular IPA's and quite a few lagers (with a secondary and bottling bucket) and they didn't oxidize (that I could tell). To your point, though, maybe they would have been even tastier without the secondary and the bottling bucket 02 exposure...

2. I read that hefe yeasts are more prone to autolysis, though I doubt much would happen in two weeks. One thing is for sure: the hefe yeast (Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan) gives off some nasty sulphur odors -- my wife asked me if we had a gas leak! So I kind of lean toward getting the beer off that yeast cake...

3. If I bottle right from the fermenter, it would be great to have one that isn't full of yeast and hops, which end up in the first and last few bottles in my current process.

 

[Dgallo]

I probably won't use the bottling bucket, but I am thinking of transferring to secondary. Three reasons:

1. Before I made NEIPA's I made some pretty tasty regular IPA's and quite a few lagers (with a secondary and bottling bucket) and they didn't oxidize (that I could tell). To your point, though, maybe they would have been even tastier without the secondary and the bottling bucket 02 exposure...

2. I read that hefe yeasts are more prone to autolysis, though I doubt much would happen in two weeks. One thing is for sure: the hefe yeast (Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan) gives off some nasty sulphur odors -- my wife asked me if we had a gas leak! So I kind of lean toward getting the beer off that yeast cake...

3. If I bottle right from the fermenter, it would be great to have one that isn't full of yeast and hops, which end up in the first and last few bottles in my current process.

I mean you’re more than entitled to do what you’d like but I would still advise against in.

There is no benefit you will gain from pulling it off the yeast and into the secondary. Sulfer and other off flavors tend to occur because of not enough yeast, enough nutrients, or pulling off the yeast before it had time to clean up.

Also remember you’re not dryhoping this beer, so as long as you transfer clear wort into your FV, your yeast/trub should be well below your spigot and you should have no issue with trub getting into you’re bottles.

I treat every beer I make likes it’s a NEIPA. Oxygen ruins beers. Even a Barleywine that can benefit from oxidation in aging will crumble if it oxidizes too much. So IMHO, do everything you would do if it was a NE and the beer will be terrific

 

[InspectorJon]

I am doing a NEIPA soon with Citra/Amarillo combination. I was planning on a 50/50 combo with one 170 degree whirlpool and 1 dry hop on day 3 or 4. The guy at the LHBS says do 2 or 3/1 citra to Amarillo or it will taste like nail polish. Is he just opinionated or is there something to this? I'll do a small charge of centennial at 30 minutes for some IBUs. I can't find much advise on ratios for these two hops. I see the combination mentioned a lot and have had some very good NEIPAs at Moonraker in Auburn, CA with this combo.

 

[SRJHops]

I mean you’re more than entitled to do what you’d like but I would still advise against in.

There is no benefit you will gain from pulling it off the yeast and into the secondary. Sulfer and other off flavors tend to occur because of not enough yeast, enough nutrients, or pulling of the yeast before it had time to clean up.

Also remember you’re not dryhoping this beer, so as long as you transfer clear wort into your FV, your yeast/trub should be well below your spigot and you should have no issue with trub getting into you’re bottles.

I treat every beer I make likes it’s a NEIPA. Oxygen ruins beers. Even a Barleywine that can benefit from oxidation in aging will crumble if it oxidizes too much. So IMHO, do everything you would do if it was a NE and the beer will be terrific

You are probably correct. With A LOT less hops, it's not as likely they will get stirred up during bottling. Sticking with it in primary would be the easiest thing too...

I believe sulphur is normal with this yeast strain. Interestingly, the reco is to vastly underpitch and not aerate, in order to coax out the banana and bumblegum, which is what I am going for.

It's a few weeks from being ready, so I have no idea how it will turn out. I was worried about the underpitching, so my goal was 1.060 OG, and I just pitched one packet of yeast. I got to 1.057 OG, which was close enough I figured. The wild card was that I used a pound of honey, so I was trying to guess how many points it would add at flameout. It ended up adding about 4.

BUT the big issue that I did not anticipate is that honey! It caused to beer to significantly over-attenuate. I was shooting for 1.016 and I am at 1.007! Do you think I should add some lactose at bottling to try to add 10 points?

 

[Dgallo]

I am doing a NEIPA soon with Citra/Amarillo combination. I was planning on a 50/50 combo with one 170 degree whirlpool and 1 dry hop on day 3 or 4. The guy at the LHBS says do 2 or 3/1 citra to Amarillo or it will taste like nail polish. Is he just opinionated or is there something to this? I'll do a small charge of centennial at 30 minutes for some IBUs. I can't find much advise on ratios for these two hops. I see the combination mentioned a lot and have had some very good NEIPAs at Moonraker in Auburn, CA with this combo.

I love citra/Amarillo combo. I’m not sure what your lhbs means by solvent like because of the combo. I’ve done this combowith Columbus as the bittering hop. I either do 2 to 1 citra to Amarillo, or the reverse. I prefer 2:1 citra to Amarillo. I’m not sure if you’ve ever had the original bright by th, but I’m almost certain this is the hop ratio for that beer or very close to it

 

[jjw5015]

I am doing a NEIPA soon with Citra/Amarillo combination. I was planning on a 50/50 combo with one 170 degree whirlpool and 1 dry hop on day 3 or 4. The guy at the LHBS says do 2 or 3/1 citra to Amarillo or it will taste like nail polish. Is he just opinionated or is there something to this? I'll do a small charge of centennial at 30 minutes for some IBUs. I can't find much advise on ratios for these two hops. I see the combination mentioned a lot and have had some very good NEIPAs at Moonraker in Auburn, CA with this combo.

Sounds like your LHBS guy doesn't know how to ferment wort properly.

 

[SRJHops]

I am doing a NEIPA soon with Citra/Amarillo combination. I was planning on a 50/50 combo with one 170 degree whirlpool and 1 dry hop on day 3 or 4. The guy at the LHBS says do 2 or 3/1 citra to Amarillo or it will taste like nail polish. Is he just opinionated or is there something to this? I'll do a small charge of centennial at 30 minutes for some IBUs. I can't find much advise on ratios for these two hops. I see the combination mentioned a lot and have had some very good NEIPAs at Moonraker in Auburn, CA with this combo.

I think that LHBS dude is whacked... You didn't list your total ounces, but unless you are going way overboard on the Amarillo, I don't see how it would end up like nail polish. Too much Citra -- like WAY over 3 ounces -- could potentially create some tea notes, but overall I doubt there will be a problem - especially if you save most for after fermentation.

On a related note, has anyone used this calculator from Scott Janish? It seems really cool and I have started using it: http://scottjanish.com/hop-oils-calulator/

 

[aaronm13]

Here's my latest attempt. Citra, El Dorado and Idaho 7. It's 8.1% and a bit too boozy. Really wanted the juice to shine through on this. Going for the Citra/ Mosaic and Galaxy combo on my next attempt with a few more tweeks from what I've read here over the last few weeks.

 

[Loud Brewing]

Here's my latest attempt. Citra, El Dorado and Idaho 7. It's 8.1% and a bit too boozy. Really wanted the juice to shine through on this. Going for the Citra/ Mosaic and Galaxy combo on my next attempt with a few more tweeks from what I've read here over the last few weeks.

Looks good. Give it a little bit of time in the keg to mellow out. Most big beers will benefit with a bit of a rest.

 

[Dgallo]

Here's my latest attempt. Citra, El Dorado and Idaho 7. It's 8.1% and a bit too boozy. Really wanted the juice to shine through on this. Going for the Citra/ Mosaic and Galaxy combo on my next attempt with a few more tweeks from what I've read here over the last few weeks.

Like @Loud Brewing said. You may just need some conditioning time. Any chance fermentation got too hot and produced fusel alcohol?

 

[aaronm13]

Have fermentation control so fermented at 64 then the last few days gradually raised to around 70 to finish off. Used London fog which is a very low attenuator anyway. I've been aiming for a FG of around 1.020 of these beers for my last few attempts to leave a lot of body. Is this maybe a bit too high? Sapwood Cellers aim for around the same so that's what I was shooting for. I'm definitely going to dry hop after fermentation is finished next time as I've always done my first hop addition at 24-48 hours. It's been in the keg about 3 weeks now so don't think the alcohol feel will mellow out.

 

[Dgallo]

Have fermentation control so fermented at 64 then the last few days gradually raised to around 70 to finish off. Used London fog which is a very low attenuator anyway. I've been aiming for a FG of around 1.020 of these beers for my last few attempts to leave a lot of body. Is this maybe a bit too high? Sapwood Cellers aim for around the same so that's what I was shooting for. I'm definitely going to dry hop after fermentation is finished next time as I've always done my first hop addition at 24-48 hours. It's been in the keg about 3 weeks now so don't think the alcohol feel will mellow out.

What was your pitch rate and How long was fermentation?

Its strange for an 8.1% heavily Dryhopped ipa that finished higher to come across boozy. I feel like maybe it was a possible yeast issue more than the recipe itself.

 

[aaronm13]

What was your pitch rate and How long was fermentation?

Its strange for an 8.1% heavily Dryhopped ipa that finished higher to come across boozy. I feel like maybe it was a possible yeast issue more than the recipe itself.

I purposely underpitched this one by around 25% after a seminar at our Brewcon from a yeast company that said to under pitch these English strains of yeast. My first time intentionally underpitching and probably the first time I got this really boozy taste of this style. I usually shoot for an abv in and around the 8% mark for this style as most of the amazing commercial examples are around this strength. Find a lot of the lower ABV versions very thin tasting.

London Fog only attenuates to 65-70 % max according to white labs. My OG was 1.081 and FG 1.020 which was a 73.8% attenuation. This was dry hopped with around 25g/L, so a massive amount of hops.

Fermentation was around 7 days in fermenter then two 3 day intervals for separate keg hopping. Around 13 days in total before transfer to serving keg.

 

[Genuine]

Here's my latest attempt. Citra, El Dorado and Idaho 7. It's 8.1% and a bit too boozy. Really wanted the juice to shine through on this. Going for the Citra/ Mosaic and Galaxy combo on my next attempt with a few more tweeks from what I've read here over the last few weeks.

One of my favorites so far has been 1:1:1 of Citra/Amarillo/Idaho 7 in the dry hop, 2oz of each. On the Hotside my go-to has been 2oz each of Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo and 1oz of Centennial. The aroma on that one was very pungent, due to the Idaho 7. Although my family's favorite so far has been 2oz each Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado for the dry hop. That combo seemed to produce a very juice, slightly dank and some vanilla in the finish.

 

[Loud Brewing]

Has anyone got a shipping notification from yakima valley yet?

 

[jk1rby]

Yea, mine are getting delivered today. Ordered them last Thursday or friday

Has anyone got a shipping notification from yakima valley yet?

 

[Dgallo]

@ttuato and others that saw a post I made this past summer about a keg dropping completely clear. My first theory was using malted wheat verse my traditional bill. Then I started to think it was due to moving my keg in the car to the bev center to can, theory was that the proteins that flocced got resuspended and attracted more proteins to them and dropped more out. This theory seemed like a stretch but this weekend I moved a keg of a sour double ipa and just took my first pour from it since then and it is absolutely clear. Looks like resuspending trub can cause a beer to drop clear.

11-27-19

12/05/19

 

[moreb33rplz]

I'm sure this has been discussed here before, but is there a consensus on what makes these beers hazy?

My personal experience has been that it is simply the a mount of hops, especially dry hops. My beers are almost all clear except my IPA. Regardless of whether oats or wheat (in any form) are used, regardless of yeast strain and including strains like chico, my IPA are always hazy if I hop the hell out of them.

 

[Dgallo]

I'm sure this has been discussed here before, but is there a consensus on what makes these beers hazy?

My personal experience has been that it is simply the a mount of hops, especially dry hops. My beers are almost all clear except my IPA. Regardless of whether oats or wheat (in any form) are used, regardless of yeast strain and including strains like chico, my IPA are always hazy if I hop the hell out of them.

Proteins and polyphenols will cause the majority of the haze in a beer. Especially when they are bound together from fermentation

 

[Noob_Brewer]

@ttuato and others that saw a post I made this past summer about a keg dropping completely clear. My first theory was using malted wheat verse my traditional bill. Then I started to think it was due to moving my keg in the car to the bev center to can, theory was that the proteins that flocced got resuspended and attracted more proteins to them and dropped more out. This theory seemed like a stretch but this weekend I moved a keg of a sour double ipa and just took my first pour from it since then and it is absolutely clear. Looks like resuspending trub can cause a beer to drop clear.

11-27-19
View attachment 655580
12/05/19
View attachment 655579

Dang - second beer almost looks like a budweiser lol. How does it taste now that its dropped clear?

 

[moreb33rplz]

Proteins and polyphenols will cause the majority of the haze in a beer. Especially when they are bound together from fermentation

Then my next question is where do the proteins and polyphenols come from?

 

[aaronm13]

Is the biotransformation hops really not key to getting the haze? Really want to skip this step in my next brew but worried I'll end up with a clearer beer.

 

[moreb33rplz]

Is the biotransformation hops really not key to getting the haze? Really want to skip this step in my next brew but worried I'll end up with a clearer beer.

I only dryhop after fermentation is done and my beers are super hazy

 

[popquizkid]

@ttuato and others that saw a post I made this past summer about a keg dropping completely clear. My first theory was using malted wheat verse my traditional bill. Then I started to think it was due to moving my keg in the car to the bev center to can, theory was that the proteins that flocced got resuspended and attracted more proteins to them and dropped more out. This theory seemed like a stretch but this weekend I moved a keg of a sour double ipa and just took my first pour from it since then and it is absolutely clear. Looks like resuspending trub can cause a beer to drop clear.

This is pretty interesting. I don't move my kegs very often so do not have any experience with this myself, but would be very curious to hear if others have experienced this.

My first thought is wouldn't this occur in commercial cans as well since they often get moved around? Maybe we don't notice it as we drink them before they are old enough to drop the proteins to the bottom.

 

[Dgallo]

Polyphe

Then my next question is where do the proteins and polyphenols come from?

Proteins and poly phenols both come from grains, but the hops provide the most polyphenols.

 

[Dgallo]

Dang - second beer almost looks like a budweiser lol. How does it taste now that its dropped clear?

Still taste great. It was a lactose, passion fruit, Vanilla bean, and Galaxy Dryhopped Sour Double ipa at 7.8% abv. Body is lacking some for sure but if you didn’t have it originally, you wouldn’t think there’s anything off with the body