New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[RoguePixels]

Brewed this today following the grain bill and had no issues until it came time for the post boil hop addition. I ordered citra, mosaic and galaxy hops and picked them up from my home brew shop the other day. I should have checked prior to this but they mixed it up and gave me centennial instead of citra. I rolled with it and did 2 oz each of centennial, mosaic and galaxy. When it's time to dry hop should I omit the centennial so it doesn't dry out the finish too much and use something else? If so what? My home brew shop is close so I should have access to most hop strains.

 

[couchsending]

Brewed this today following the grain bill and had no issues until it came time for the post boil hop addition. I ordered citra, mosaic and galaxy hops and picked them up from my home brew shop the other day. I should have checked prior to this but they mixed it up and gave me centennial instead of citra. I rolled with it and did 2 oz each of centennial, mosaic and galaxy. When it's time to dry hop should I omit the centennial so it doesn't dry out the finish too much and use something else? If so what? My home brew shop is close so I should have access to most hop strains.

Are you referring to hop creep drying it out? Mosiac has just as high of a likelihood of causing hop creep as Centennial. You have no idea if the hops you have have the enzymes or not. I’d just roll with what you have.

 

[SRJHops]

Brewed this today following the grain bill and had no issues until it came time for the post boil hop addition. I ordered citra, mosaic and galaxy hops and picked them up from my home brew shop the other day. I should have checked prior to this but they mixed it up and gave me centennial instead of citra. I rolled with it and did 2 oz each of centennial, mosaic and galaxy. When it's time to dry hop should I omit the centennial so it doesn't dry out the finish too much and use something else? If so what? My home brew shop is close so I should have access to most hop strains.

I'd roll with what you have... While I don't see a ton of recipes with Centennial, I don't see why it would be a bad choice for a NEIPA. Should get some floral and hopefully some lemon/citrus...

 

[stickyfinger]

after a few comparisons i’m thinking mosaic added before cold or soft crashing results in a different flavor than when added after cold/soft crashing. others agree? i like that resinous flavor when added warmer.

 

[aaronm13]

Just catching up on this post as I haven't read it for a while. I've just brewed my latest version with Citra, El Dorado and Idaho 7. For the amount of hops in it I'm definitely not blown away by flavor or aroma. There's 400g/14oz of dry hops in it.

Reading the last few pages and my mind is blown with the whole idea of not using hops 24-48 hours into fermentation. The brewery's that don't use this practice is definitely leading me to at least try it out for my next batch. So a question for the people that don't dry hop till fermentation is finished, do you find the haze of the beer suffers because of this or is there no visible difference?

I don't get a lot of hop bite from my beers once they condition for around a week but would definitely like to lock the aroma in. My practice is, first dry hop in fermenter. Then transfer to keg by closed transfer and do the second dry hop, then to another keg for the third dry hop. Finally to a serving keg. My fridge smells amazing when I dry hop in the fermenter so this aroma is definitely going somewhere besides the beer.

 

[LumberZach]

Just catching up on this post as I haven't read it for a while. I've just brewed my latest version with Citra, El Dorado and Idaho 7. For the amount of hops in it I'm definitely not blown away by flavor or aroma. There's 400g/14oz of dry hops in it.

Reading the last few pages and my mind is blown with the whole idea of not using hops 24-48 hours into fermentation. The brewery's that don't use this practice is definitely leading me to at least try it out for my next batch. So a question for the people that don't dry hop till fermentation is finished, do you find the haze of the beer suffers because of this or is there no visible difference?

I don't get a lot of hop bite from my beers once they condition for around a week but would definitely like to lock the aroma in. My practice is, first dry hop in fermenter. Then transfer to keg by closed transfer and do the second dry hop, then to another keg for the third dry hop. Finally to a serving keg. My fridge smells amazing when I dry hop in the fermenter so this aroma is definitely going somewhere besides the beer.

Let me see if I understand you correctly. You transfer your beer 3 times before getting it into a serving keg? If that's right, I have to ask why. You shouldn't have to transfer more than once (from your fermenter to your serving keg).

The last beer I made I did a very small dry hop charge (2oz.) on day 2. After fermentation was complete on day 7, I did a soft crash at 58F for 24 hours and then hopped it with 6oz. I let that sit for 48 hours, and did a 24 hour crash at 48F before transferring to my keg. It was probably the most hop saturated and aromatic beer I've brewed in recent memory. Haze stability was excellent. Lasted right around two months, and was just as hazy as it was on day 1.

 

[aaronm13]

Let me see if I understand you correctly. You transfer your beer 3 times before getting it into a serving keg? If that's right, I have to ask why. You shouldn't have to transfer more than once (from your fermenter to your serving keg).

The last beer I made I did a very small dry hop charge (2oz.) on day 2 and then did a 6oz. dry hop after fermentation was done and I did a soft crash to 58F. It was probably the most hop saturated and aromatic beer I've brewed in recent memory. Haze stability was excellent. Lasted right around two month and was just as hazy as it was on day 1.

You understand correctly. Because of the high amount of hops I want to increase contact area. It's a bit of extra work but would like to think it's worth it. Was pretty underwhelmed as I said even with the high level of dry hops.

 

[LumberZach]

You understand correctly. Because of the high amount of hops I want to increase contact area. It's a bit of extra work but would like to think it's worth it. Was pretty underwhelmed as I said even with the high level of dry hops.

I would ditch all the transfers personally. I have a 6 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid and floating dip tube to do pressure transfers to my serving keg. I have no issue with getting plenty of contact area.

The last neipa I brewed was the first time I went light on the biotransformation dry hop and did a post fermentation dry hop. I think the key is to do a soft crash between 58-60F for 24 hours before doing the final dry hop.

 

[Dgallo]

You understand correctly. Because of the high amount of hops I want to increase contact area. It's a bit of extra work but would like to think it's worth it. Was pretty underwhelmed as I said even with the high level of dry hops.

Are all your kegs completely void of o2? Like @LumberZach noticed, that’s a lot of transfers. Every transfer is a opportunity for oxidation to occur, especially if the kegs are properly purged.

Regardless of the process, a slight amount of oxygen will get in every transfer, usually such a small amount that will not affect the beer as long as all other processes are sound, But with more racks that increases this slight oxidation. If I were you I’d look into some better practices for your keg. Maybe a CBD system in a keg so it can become a dryhop/serving keg

 

[aaronm13]

I would ditch all the transfers personally. I have a 6 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid and floating dip tube to do pressure transfers to my serving keg. I have no issue with getting plenty of contact area.

The last neipa I brewed was the first time I went light on the biotransformation dry hop and did a post fermentation dry hop. I think the key is to do a soft crash between 58-60F for 24 hours before doing the final dry hop.

I've started doing the soft crash to 58 my last few brews. I use the Ss Brewtec bucket and would not like to dump that amount of hops into it and expect a smooth transfer.

The Shellhammer study is leading me to think I might be using too much hops. The hops I can get in my country are a terrible quality so have switched to ordering in hops from Yakima valley to see if that helps. Would like them to last a little longer that they do as shipping is very expressive.

 

[Dgallo]

I'd roll with what you have... While I don't see a ton of recipes with Centennial, I don't see why it would be a bad choice for a NEIPA. Should get some floral and hopefully some lemon/citrus...

Just saw this today at the beverage center. KCBC just put out a collab with barrier using centennial

 

[kevink]

I'm getting ready to brew a batch this weekend with whatever hops I have laying around and I'm looking for some ideas. I have a few, but curious if anyone comes up with something I haven't thought of. I still have time to buy dry hops, so feel free to recommend something that isn't listed here! What do you think?

These weights are in ounces:
mosaic 32.85
mandarina 16
citra 20
galaxy 32
strata 8
lemon drop 8
vic secret 13
amarillo 12
huell melon 11.85
centennial 4

 

[Dgallo]

I'm getting ready to brew a batch this weekend with whatever hops I have laying around and I'm looking for some ideas. I have a few, but curious if anyone comes up with something I haven't thought of. I still have time to buy dry hops, so feel free to recommend something that isn't listed here! What do you think?

These weights are in ounces:
mosaic 32.85
mandarina 16
citra 20
galaxy 32
strata 8
lemon drop 8
vic secret 13
amarillo 12
huell melon 11.85
centennial 4

I did a mosaic, huel melon, mandarina quit a few months maybe even close to a year which had a lot of depth and complimentary flavors. Didn’t have fresh huell melon at the time, so I always wonder, what if?

Amarillo, Centennial, mandarina would probably be really interesting with an orange floral note. Maybe throw some citra in the dryhop to brighten it up a bit.

Strata is a really cool hop that is really nice on the hotside. Prob would work with all of them.

Or just go with the fool proof citra mosaic galaxy.

 

[beervoid]

Have any of you experienced the following.
After cold crashing for 2 days and transferring to serving keg. Beer tastes good little to no hop or yeast bite. After moving the keg a few days later a substantial hop/yeast bite shows up and does not clear up.
It seems to be more so the case with dry hopping during or at end fermentation.

I recall at least one member experiencing this. @Dgallo perhaps?

How long does everyone cold crash?

 

[couchsending]

Brewing an all Citra IIPA today. Going to use all forms of Citra available to me.

Warrior for Bittering and 30
Citra Pellets @ 5
Citra Cryo WP
Citra Leaf in Hopback
American Noble Citra during ferment
Blend of Cryo, Leaf, Pellets from a bunch of different sources in the DH.

 

[aaronm13]

Brewing an all Citra IIPA today. Going to use all forms of Citra available to me.

Warrior for Bittering and 30
Citra Pellets @ 5
Citra Cryo WP
Citra Leaf in Hopback
American Noble Citra during ferment
Blend of Cryo, Leaf, Pellets from a bunch of different sources in the DH.

What's your grain bill and your process/schedule for dry hopping couchsending if you don't mind me asking? Reading back your posts and I really want to stop adding hops at 24-48 hour mark.

 

[couchsending]

Grain bill for all hoppy beers is basically

Rahr 2 Row
- or blend of 2 row/Pils
8-10% Carafoam
2-3% Carahell
Acid Malt

Using Dextrose in this beer to make sure it dries out.

I don’t usually dry hop during very active fermentation. However I’m going to try something with these American Noble hops. I’m not a proponent of the dry hopping early in fermentation as the long contact time between hops and yeast can cause the yeast cells to get coated with alpha acids/oil and burst, causing all sorts of sulphur based off flavors and aromas. Aromas that I’m rather sensitive to.

However with these American Noble versions they are super low in alpha/oil but still contain a lot of the biotransformative material that’s found in the leaf matter of the hop. So hopefully some of the positive aspects of adding hops during fermentation without the negative consequences.

Lately I’ve been adding a small DH charge (roughly 1/3 of total) when fermentation is complete and after I’ve removed some yeast but haven’t cooled the beer. I’ll leave for 2 days at this temp (68-70 usually), check for Diacetyl or additional fermentation. If those are negative I’ll cool to 60, wait 24 hours, remove as much yeast/hops as possible then add the second larger DH charge. Leave that for 2-4 days then slowly cool and continue to pull yeast/hops.

Edit: this time I might try transferring the beer into keg for the final DH. Use the Co2 from fermentation to purge it. Leave it at room temp for a week and hopefully rely on a little hop creep to carbonate it, then crash cool and transfer to a serving keg or can it off that keg.

 

[aaronm13]

Grain bill for all hoppy beers is basically

Rahr 2 Row
- or blend of 2 row/Pils
8-10% Carafoam
2-3% Carahell
Acid Malt

Using Dextrose in this beer to make sure it dries out.

I don’t usually dry hop during very active fermentation. However I’m going to try something with these American Noble hops. I’m not a proponent of the dry hopping early in fermentation as the long contact time between hops and yeast can cause the yeast cells to get coated with alpha acids/oil and burst, causing all sorts of sulphur based off flavors and aromas. Aromas that I’m rather sensitive to.

However with these American Noble versions they are super low in alpha/oil but still contain a lot of the biotransformative material that’s found in the leaf matter of the hop. So hopefully some of the positive aspects of adding hops during fermentation without the negative consequences.

Lately I’ve been adding a small DH charge (roughly 1/3 of total) when fermentation is complete and after I’ve removed some yeast but haven’t cooled the beer. I’ll leave for 2 days at this temp (68-70 usually), check for Diacetyl or additional fermentation. If those are negative I’ll cool to 60, wait 24 hours, remove as much yeast/hops as possible then add the second larger DH charge. Leave that for 2-4 days then slowly cool and continue to pull yeast/hops.

Edit: this time I might try transferring the beer into keg for the final DH. Use the Co2 from fermentation to purge it. Leave it at room temp for a week and hopefully rely on a little hop creep to carbonate it, then crash cool and transfer to a serving keg or can it off that keg.

Thanks so much for the detailed reply. I'm definitely going to try adding the first hops after fermentation is finished with and the rest of the dry hop with the tips you've mentioned to see if it makes a difference.

Best of luck with your new brew, sounds interesting with all the different versions of Citra in it.

 

[muddy1015]

Is anyone using a bit of potassium metabisulfite/campden in kegs to help with oxygen? Would be tough to do if you're pushing sanitizer out of keg and then doing a closed transfer to it, I can't do closed transfers yet so I've started adding in some crushed campden when I rack to the keg. I can only offer anecdotally that my past couple of NEIPAs have held up quite well, but I've also made some other changes to be more careful with oxygen. Curious what others experiences are if you use it

 

[couchsending]

Just an interesting observation here in regards to Chit malt. I’ve made 4 hoppy beers now where I substituted Chit malt for Carafoam. 6-8% of total grain bill. Every one of those beers has cleared rather quickly in the keg where as the same recipe with Carafoam never clears.

However the head retention/formation is absolutely bonkers. I’m pretty obsessed with foam and do as much as possible to promote it and the head on these Chit malt beers really stands out.

 

[Sbe2]

Brewing an all Citra IIPA today. Going to use all forms of Citra available to me.

Warrior for Bittering and 30
Citra Pellets @ 5
Citra Cryo WP
Citra Leaf in Hopback
American Noble Citra during ferment
Blend of Cryo, Leaf, Pellets from a bunch of different sources in the DH.

Did a smash NEIPa with Rahr 2 row and citra pellet and cryo. Had been brewing a lot of southern hemisphere hopped beers recently and kinda wanted to do an OG brew. It turned out real nice: tons of citrus, some dank, and some grapefruit rind.

 

[beervoid]

Just an interesting observation here in regards to Chit malt. I’ve made 4 hoppy beers now where I substituted Chit malt for Carafoam. 6-8% of total grain bill. Every one of those beers has cleared rather quickly in the keg where as the same recipe with Carafoam never clears.

However the head retention/formation is absolutely bonkers. I’m pretty obsessed with foam and do as much as possible to promote it and the head on these Chit malt beers really stands out.

Did a 10% chit malt and 10% malted wheat and it cleared also. Heard from other brewer as well that chit malt clears the beer.
using it at only 4% now and got a nice foam and haze..

 

[kevink]

I did a mosaic, huel melon, mandarina quit a few months maybe even close to a year which had a lot of depth and complimentary flavors. Didn’t have fresh huell melon at the time, so I always wonder, what if?

Amarillo, Centennial, mandarina would probably be really interesting with an orange floral note. Maybe throw some citra in the dryhop to brighten it up a bit.

Strata is a really cool hop that is really nice on the hotside. Prob would work with all of them.

Or just go with the fool proof citra mosaic galaxy.

Thanks, man! I decided on Galaxy, Mosaic, and Mandarina. I'm brewing right now

 

[Loud Brewing]

Anyone here been brewing lighter versions of the NE style/hazys or hybrid ipas?
Lately I have been building my "hazys" with no adjuncts, higher mash temps, higher ibu and using neutral yeasts to showcase hops and make a more crushable version of the style.
My latest was all Pilsen malt with us-05, as simple as it gets. Used my typical NE water profile and did a somewhat basic whirlpool and dryhop dosage.
What resulted was a well ballanced hopiness that is much rounder and more refined as opposed to my typical juice bomb hazys. I will definitely be experimenting more with this type of recipe.
You can find the full recipe here; https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/906286/smooth-sailing-hazy-pale

 

[crusader1612]

Anyone here been brewing lighter versions of the NE style/hazys or hybrid ipas?
Lately I have been building my "hazys" with no adjuncts, higher mash temps, higher ibu and using neutral yeasts to showcase hops and make a more crushable version of the style.
My latest was all Pilsen malt with us-05, as simple as it gets. Used my typical NE water profile and did a somewhat basic whirlpool and dryhop dosage.
What resulted was a well ballanced hopiness that is much rounder and more refined as opposed to my typical juice bomb hazys. I will definitely be experimenting more with this type of recipe.
You can find the full recipe here; https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/906286/smooth-sailing-hazy-pale
View attachment 653791

Sounds really good.
This is actually a new style as well. Because I’m not in the US we get a few different interpretations of this style.
- There’s the NEIPA which by rights should use Conan or similar (a USA derived yeast strain).
- hazy IPA which falls under the more London ale, London fog type yeasts. With any typical hip presence (Galaxy Nelson citra etc are all good).
- Juicy IPA which is what yours falls under. Essentially a hazy IPA but using a neutral yeast strain and higher mash temps to gain body without adding “thickness”. Something really special about this style as if you can balance body hops and neutral grain characters then they’re fantastic. You could almost do this and eliminate the dry hop for a juicy blonde too.

Cheers for the recipe btw.

 

[beervoid]

Anyone here been brewing lighter versions of the NE style/hazys or hybrid ipas?
Lately I have been building my "hazys" with no adjuncts, higher mash temps, higher ibu and using neutral yeasts to showcase hops and make a more crushable version of the style.
My latest was all Pilsen malt with us-05, as simple as it gets. Used my typical NE water profile and did a somewhat basic whirlpool and dryhop dosage.
What resulted was a well ballanced hopiness that is much rounder and more refined as opposed to my typical juice bomb hazys. I will definitely be experimenting more with this type of recipe.
You can find the full recipe here; https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/906286/smooth-sailing-hazy-pale
View attachment 653791

I succesfully made a session hazy by upping the fg to around 1.025+ using some more adjuncts and skipping the bittering additions.

 

[Dgallo]

I succesfully made a session hazy by upping the fg to around 1.025+ using some more adjuncts and skipping the bittering additions.

I mean I’m no authority on styles but if I’m drinking a session I want it to be truly sessionable, low abv, low cal so I can drink them all day and not feel full. I don’t know if I would consider it a session ipa if it finished that high, even if it was a low abv.

 

[beervoid]

I mean I’m no authority on styles but if I’m drinking a session I want it to be truly sessionable, low abv, low cal so I can drink them all day and not feel full. I don’t know if I would consider it a session ipa if it finished that high, even if it was a low abv.

I agree it needs to be sessionable. Finishing high with a small malt bill wont make it cloying in my experience. It just gives it a bit more flavor and body so it can carry enough hops to still be hoppy enough to be juicy.
Beer in case clocked in at 3.8%

 

[Northern_Brewer]

- There’s the NEIPA which by rights should use Conan or similar (a USA derived yeast strain).
- hazy IPA which falls under the more London ale, London fog type yeasts. With any typical hip presence (Galaxy Nelson citra etc are all good).

You're overthinking those - Conan is a Whitbread yeast, that has only been in the US since 1988. It's still a British yeast like 1318 etc - and I think people outside the UK don't realise quite how aromatic true British yeasts are, the typical homebrew ones are as lacking in character as the recent performance in the cricket...

 

[NatiTime]

So as a beginner that would be Brewing something similar and then bottling it. Is it crazy to think I could be successful and not get oxidation from a NE IPA?

 

[Dgallo]

So as a beginner that would be Brewing something similar and then bottling it. Is it crazy to think I could be successful and not get oxidation from a NE IPA?

It is very difficult to minimize oxidation bottling this style, especially if youre slightly inexperienced. That being said, ask @SRJHops for his process. He bottles NEIPAs and had sent me a bottle and there weren’t any perceived oxidation issues that I could detect. Idk his exact process but it must be sound.

 

[Oldskewl]

So as a beginner that would be Brewing something similar and then bottling it. Is it crazy to think I could be successful and not get oxidation from a NE IPA?

Honestly if you can bottle directly from the fermenter and use something similar to Domino dots in each bottle you can be successful if you cap immediately. Personally I keg my NE IPAs but if I have some left over in the fermenter I will bottle what is left using the above method. I just found a bottle buried in the fridge last night. It was over 6 months old and had not oxidized that I could tell. Still bright yellow with no off flavors. Although it did lose about half of its haze and some of its aroma.

 

[SRJHops]

So as a beginner that would be Brewing something similar and then bottling it. Is it crazy to think I could be successful and not get oxidation from a NE IPA?

Hi NatiTime, I just sent you a message with the processes, but as Oldskewl noted, the main trick is to bottle right from primary into bottles (bombers are best) with sugar already in them. I use Cooper's drops (one drop is all it takes).

Try to limit oxygen exposure any way you can, including only opening the carboy to dry hop -- and then purge with Wine Preserver gas if you DH after active fermentation.

If you are careful, there is no reason your bottled NEIPA will oxidize. In fact, the yeast will scavenge some of the oxygen as it carbonates the bottle, so bottling has that advantage.

I do think kegging has at least one advantage, though: keg hopping, which must preserve aroma better than bottling. (I have been experimenting with adding hop oils right into the bottles, but so far my experiments are inconclusive.)

 

[H20ENG]

Some pages back someone mentioned transferring without the poppets in the fittings but that proccess was not detailed.
Do you use a valve on the transfer line to prevent flow until ready to rack? No poppets means an open keg so I'd like to learn more about this.
My several attempts at transferring with hops in the keg failed miserably due to clogs. After this marathon thread I have new hope! An inline filter, CBDS, and new crashing methods may make me a believer.
Thanks all!

 

[crusader1612]

You're overthinking those - Conan is a Whitbread yeast, that has only been in the US since 1988. It's still a British yeast like 1318 etc - and I think people outside the UK don't realise quite how aromatic true British yeasts are, the typical homebrew ones are as lacking in character as the recent performance in the cricket...

I'm sure you're right, however, I don't think I'm over thinking it at all.
Conan and "coastal haze" may have a british background, but they're still mostly considered in the mainstream as american yeasts.

What a great Test match.................................................
Shame about the RWC, CWC and T20 though....................

 

[Dgallo]

Sounds really good.
This is actually a new style as well. Because I’m not in the US we get a few different interpretations of this style.
- There’s the NEIPA which by rights should use Conan or similar (a USA derived yeast strain).
- hazy IPA which falls under the more London ale, London fog type yeasts. With any typical hip presence (Galaxy Nelson citra etc are all good).
- Juicy IPA which is what yours falls under. Essentially a hazy IPA but using a neutral yeast strain and higher mash temps to gain body without adding “thickness”. Something really special about this style as if you can balance body hops and neutral grain characters then they’re fantastic. You could almost do this and the dry hop for a juicy blonde too.

Cheers for the recipe btw.

I also think your over thinking and sub categorizing it too much. I’ll make a NEIPA with a Kviek yeast which is Norwegian, I’ve also seen them done with with a kolsh yeast. I’ve also had NEIPAs from Captain Lawrence bco that does mixed fermentation with a Belgian strain blended in. It’s all about preference

This is the bjcp profile of NEIPA https://dev.bjcp.org/beer-styles/21b-specialty-ipa-new-england-ipa/
Literally every adjective you used to subcategories it is in its comments

 

[stickyfinger]

Some pages back someone mentioned transferring without the poppets in the fittings but that proccess was not detailed.
Do you use a valve on the transfer line to prevent flow until ready to rack? No poppets means an open keg so I'd like to learn more about this.
My several attempts at transferring with hops in the keg failed miserably due to clogs. After this marathon thread I have new hope! An inline filter, CBDS, and new crashing methods may make me a believer.
Thanks all!

it works ok in a pinch, not a method to use routinely imho. i used to have transfer issues before adopting the cold crash and transfer with CBDS method. If my line clogged i’d take poppets out, put the keg in a bucket of some sort and then let the beer just run onto the keg and into the bucket as i quickly pushed it onto the poppetless keg. when done racking i’d unscrew the keg fitting, insert poppet and then purge headspace 6x at 10psi. the beers likely didn’t suffer too too much but it made a mess and introduced some oxygen. cold crashing is a much better approach though. you just need to prevent air ingress during the crash.

 

[H20ENG]

Thanks stickyfinger,
I was reading too much into it I guess.

Have yet to ferment in a corny. I used to put a hop bag around the transfer tubing and purge CO2 while filling kegs. Having experienced the devastating, complete loss of aroma in as little as 2 weeks, I'm adopting the methods listed here. I do have an old rubberized half barrel that I keep eyeing to convert to a fermenter. Would love to switch to all SS.

 

[stjimmyjos]

My latest NEIPA with Hornindal and Citra Cryo and Galaxy pellets. Turns out very juicy, first time using hornindal kveik strain and i think it will be my favorite strain for NEIPA's. Next batch I plan with Idaho Gem and Citra - any advices with Idaho hops?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Conan and "coastal haze" may have a british background, but they're still mostly considered in the mainstream as american yeasts.

Read any article about them and you'll see a reference to their British origins, and them being contrasted against "American" yeasts like US-05 and WLP001. It's about more than just where they've been used most recently, it's about their general character in the same way that "Belgian" yeasts have a distinct character.

Shame about the RWC, CWC and T20 though....................

I was trying to be kind in not mentioning them, but RWC finals are over-rated if you ask me...