I do 2-3 days in primary (drop them about 24 hours post pitch) and then second drop in the keg which I keep in there. Since we're spunding, keg is carbed and ready in a day or two after racking. So about a week total timeline
I do 2-3 days in primary (drop them about 24 hours post pitch) and then second drop in the keg which I keep in there. Since we're spunding, keg is carbed and ready in a day or two after racking. So about a week total timeline
So im curious. Are you dry hopping from day 1? Or leaving hops in the fermenting keg and racking off? Doesnt seem like much contact time if youve already racked and conditioned. Whats the timeline look like?
I don't temp control the keg so let it get to low 70s.never any diacetyl developing in the keg?
The last one I did I racked to a keg the“old school” way from my spigot, but with 6 pts left. It’s been three weeks in the keezer and the hoppiness is still there. I racked it on day 4, left it to condition/carb for a week at room temp, keezer for a day, tapped. It will probably be my process from here on because of not having a clogged poppet during a closed transfer.I dry hopped just under 3 days after pitching, and racked to the serving keg 4 days and 7 hours post pitch with about 2 gravity points remaining. Dry hops had contact time of a little over a day.
The hoppyness is off the charts.
Julius is my favorite by far. Eureka is the only one below 5%, and it's very good also.what’s the best? what is the lowest ABV beer that still tastes good?
Julius is my favorite by far. Eureka is the only one below 5%, and it's very good also.
I had just made a batch of braufessors recipe here and it came out great with a soft mouthfeel and big hop flavor. Its really fantastic. But the mouthfeel of these tree house beers is something else entirely.
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The screen is specifically made for the clear beer system and is sold on their website. I can’t speak to how useful it is because Ive never not used it. I bring kegs to gatherings a lot (sentiment gets kicked up) and use FC intertap faucets that can clog easy from hop particles, so for me it was worth the extra money. Plus transferring or serving off dry hops means I can get as much beer as possible at the bottom of the keg without getting a glass full of hop particulate. I know the keg it’s kicked when the beer stops flowing because the pick up is sitting in the muck down in the bottom and the screen is clogged up.
Idk. I ferment in a keg. I use the CB system in my fermentation keg then I jump it to a 3 gallon keg with normal dip tube. The beer coming over is completely free of debris, I imagine if you end up transferring hop material it would clog up that screen from the inside.Do you transfer into the keg closed, with the screen already on? I need to keg a couple neipas this weekend and will be my first time using the floating diptube. I bought the screens with them, but was wondering if use the screen when transferring to the keg will i get floaters in the wrong side of the screen giving me issues later? Wondering if you or anyone else had any advice. Thanks.
Went with full golden promise for the first time, had 1lb of unopened Eureka! for like 6 months in the freezer... needed to try this instead of simcoe...
Just made the dry hop when the beer was at 1.025 (3 days of fermentation)
Will post result in 2 weeks.
Cheers
hey all, i’ve used denny’s fav in neipa before, wy 1450, but it’s been a long time. has anyone compared it with another common strain in an neipa? i had a friend’s stout this weekend and it had amazing mouthfeel from the 1450. i fermented my half of the stout with 1318 and it was much sharper tasting.
I have always thought it would be a good one for this beer, but have not used it much myself. Maybe I will put it on deck and run it through all my beers. Might be a really good one for that session wheat beer/NE IPA I have been brewing too. Good for an amber as well.
Kegged the beer this afternoon after 30 hours of cold crash, 12 days in the fermenter. Very smooth closed no oxygen transfer again (took about 5-6 min to fill up) but man I got again 81% of attenuation with 1318, finished at 1.011 -1.010. I mashed at 155-156 to test 1318 with a higher FG but no, can't do that..... I brewed 3 neipa with 1318 and they all finished between 81 and 83% of attenuation. The only yeast that finished with low attenuation to me is Vermont Ale... Am I alone here?
Nonetheless, great beer, great and wonderful aroma. It doesnt taste very good yet because the beer is green and there is a yeast bite in all of my NEIPA under 2 weeks. I always judge my neipa after 2-3 weeks in the keg at least.
Will post pics and taste result in 2-3 weeks. I did not forcecarb this time. 12 psi.
Spec and data of this brew.
hey all, i’ve used denny’s fav in neipa before, wy 1450, but it’s been a long time. has anyone compared it with another common strain in an neipa? i had a friend’s stout this weekend and it had amazing mouthfeel from the 1450. i fermented my half of the stout with 1318 and it was much sharper tasting.
if you're using a racking cane are you pushing the beer directly into the kegs OUT post or are you racking into an open, non-purged keg? If so, thats your issue.I transferred pushing with co2 , but i did open the fermenter to take a gravity reading and put a filter over the racking cane. Definitely disappointed, the beer was really starting to taste great... now its back to not much aroma or flavor
Force carbing is automatic oxidation too due to impurity of bottle gas.
Probably not too bad if you force carbed at 30 psi on day 1 and drank all on day 2, but beyond that YMMV.
i've honestly never experienced oxidation due to force carbing.....
natural carbonation can go quite fast.
if you rack with a few points left and then just seal the receiving keg you'll probably be at pressure within 1-2 days.
This may have been discussed upthread, but how do you handle dry hopping with this approach? For this style, I typically hop a few days into fermentation. Do you think you still get the bio transformation effect by putting the dry hop in the keg, and letting fermentation finish there?To be clear, there are two methods to natural carbonation.
Ideally you'd "spund" or rack to your serving vessel with a few points (around 4-5 for this style) and let the each yeast cell act like a carbonating stone while also reducing O2 to 0 in the vessel. If you're not perfect with your timing, a spunding valve should be used or at least a careful eye on the pressure inside the keg to avoid overcarbonation. If you undercarb, you can either supplement using the next method or force carb the rest of the way (not ideal but you've already reduced to zero and gotten most of the way there so...)
If you miss the spund or your dry hopping schedule doesn't allow for racking with points, you can always prime the primary (yes the primary, not the serving vessel), and rack to your serving vessel once you see yeast activity again. The reason for priming the primary is again to ensure that all oxygen intake during racking is negated as quickly as possible. The downside to this approach is that it takes longer as you have a lot less yeast to do the job and there's always the folks that say they can pick out the "priming" flavor in a beer...I can't but YMMV.
I dry hop once in the fermenter, then transfer to a keg with another round of of dry hops, and a bit of sugar. After 4 or 5 days in the keg w/hops, I transfer to a serving keg.This may have been discussed upthread, but how do you handle dry hopping with this approach? For this style, I typically hop a few days into fermentation. Do you think you still get the bio transformation effect by putting the dry hop in the keg, and letting fermentation finish there?
Ok, thanks. You don't have issues with the 1st dry hop clogging the poppets, since you aren't cold crashing (I presume)?I dry hop 24 hours into fermentation. If I'm DDH, I add the second round to a water purged serving keg at that same time and then I hook up my blow off to the liquid out and continue to purge with fermentation gas until it's time to spund.
I've also just opened the keg and added the second round of dh after racking spund...you introduce o2 but the active yeast should take care of it.
This is a bit more challenging if you want a Brite IPA as you really want to wait until fermentation is complete before dry hopping. I haven't figured out a great solution for that however those beers are a little less susceptible to falling off so quickly
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