New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[RTHP99]

The hop burn is mostly gone and this beer is tasting great

 

[stickyfinger]

hey all, i’ve used denny’s fav in neipa before, wy 1450, but it’s been a long time. has anyone compared it with another common strain in an neipa? i had a friend’s stout this weekend and it had amazing mouthfeel from the 1450. i fermented my half of the stout with 1318 and it was much sharper tasting.

 

[schematix]

I’ve used 1450 across many ale styles and it’s pretty versatile. Think 1056 with lower attenuation.

I’ve decided for my tastes I like all my IPAs in the dry side though so I’ve backed away from it in this style. It makes a great oat stout though.

 

[Braufessor]

hey all, i’ve used denny’s fav in neipa before, wy 1450, but it’s been a long time. has anyone compared it with another common strain in an neipa? i had a friend’s stout this weekend and it had amazing mouthfeel from the 1450. i fermented my half of the stout with 1318 and it was much sharper tasting.

I have always thought it would be a good one for this beer, but have not used it much myself. Maybe I will put it on deck and run it through all my beers. Might be a really good one for that session wheat beer/NE IPA I have been brewing too. Good for an amber as well.

 

[stickyfinger]

I have always thought it would be a good one for this beer, but have not used it much myself. Maybe I will put it on deck and run it through all my beers. Might be a really good one for that session wheat beer/NE IPA I have been brewing too. Good for an amber as well.

i think i'm going to give it a go again soon then and see how it compares with other yeast now that i've done a fair number of these.

 

[popquizkid]

Kegged the beer this afternoon after 30 hours of cold crash, 12 days in the fermenter. Very smooth closed no oxygen transfer again (took about 5-6 min to fill up) but man I got again 81% of attenuation with 1318, finished at 1.011 -1.010. I mashed at 155-156 to test 1318 with a higher FG but no, can't do that..... I brewed 3 neipa with 1318 and they all finished between 81 and 83% of attenuation. The only yeast that finished with low attenuation to me is Vermont Ale... Am I alone here?

Nonetheless, great beer, great and wonderful aroma. It doesnt taste very good yet because the beer is green and there is a yeast bite in all of my NEIPA under 2 weeks. I always judge my neipa after 2-3 weeks in the keg at least.
Will post pics and taste result in 2-3 weeks. I did not forcecarb this time. 12 psi.

Spec and data of this brew.

You are not alone. I have used 1318 a few times and I always get really high attenutation with it. I always mash from 154 - 156

I ferment at 67 and ramp it after high krausen (I ramp and dry hop in the fermenter at the same time)

 

[kinginthenorth]

hey all, i’ve used denny’s fav in neipa before, wy 1450, but it’s been a long time. has anyone compared it with another common strain in an neipa? i had a friend’s stout this weekend and it had amazing mouthfeel from the 1450. i fermented my half of the stout with 1318 and it was much sharper tasting.

I’ve found 1450 to be very expressive in malt/hops aroma as well as giving that nice mouthfeel. I usually get 77-78% attenuation with it, which is more than adequate imo.

For a style like this, I’ve found it will clear up faster than a 1318 or Conan. Two weeks in the keg and it only retains a slight residual haze, most likely from amount dry hops (1oz/gal++.)

 

[Beer-lord]

Got my version in the keg this weekend and the aroma is outstanding! First tastes were a little more bitter than I would like but I think that may settle after carbing. First hop drop at 10 minutes with the next done for a 30 minute whirlpool then 2 dry hops. I think the next time I'll only do 15 minute whirlpool or reduce the hops (would save money I guess if I cared). But, I'm definitely gonna play around more with my recipe but the info in this thread has been very helpful so thanks to all who have contributed.

 

[braindead]

Whats everyones preferred method of carving this in a corny?
Looking for 2.2 psi?

 

[Beerdrinker85]

I tried force carb, 30 psi for 24h-36 hours, vent then set it at 11-12 psi with good success.
Recently, I serve my neipa at 45F @ 11-12 psi (set and forget for 1-2 weeks) and according to the carbonation table it is at around 2.17 - 2.26

Honestly I did not noticed any difference in both way... 2.2 is the sweet spot to me.

 

[jjw5015]

Golden Promise and flaked oats. Galaxy, vic secret, ella, motueka

 

[RTHP99]

The window of this beer being at peak seems to have been very short for me, maybe 2 days. Hop burn and now seems to be oxidizing shortly after the burn subsiding

 

[Hannabrew]

I used to have the same problem and it drove me nuts.

I don't wanna go all lodo on this thread but this style is the main reason I started looking into it and eventually incorporating all the recommended cold side processes...now kegs are in their prime for many weeks, probably more if they'd last that long. In fact I did a split batch once and didn't tap the 2nd keg for 4 weeks after the first keg was in it's prime. No dropoff whatsoever in aroma/flavor.

Say what you want about the hot side but the cold side is just good practice... especially for this style

The two things I changed that had the biggest impact IMO were closed transfers and spunding (or priming the keg if spund was missed). I know co2 is 99.9% pure but when you're forcing it through your beer when force carbing, I do think that starts the oxidation a lot faster than we think.

 

[RTHP99]

I transferred pushing with co2 , but i did open the fermenter to take a gravity reading and put a filter over the racking cane. Definitely disappointed, the beer was really starting to taste great... now its back to not much aroma or flavor

 

[grassfeeder]

I transferred pushing with co2 , but i did open the fermenter to take a gravity reading and put a filter over the racking cane. Definitely disappointed, the beer was really starting to taste great... now its back to not much aroma or flavor

if you're using a racking cane are you pushing the beer directly into the kegs OUT post or are you racking into an open, non-purged keg? If so, thats your issue.

 

[schematix]

Force carbing is automatic oxidation too due to impurity of bottle gas.

Probably not too bad if you force carbed at 30 psi on day 1 and drank all on day 2, but beyond that YMMV.

 

[grassfeeder]

Force carbing is automatic oxidation too due to impurity of bottle gas.

Probably not too bad if you force carbed at 30 psi on day 1 and drank all on day 2, but beyond that YMMV.

i've honestly never experienced oxidation due to force carbing.....

 

[RTHP99]

The keg is purged, I push star san through the system, keg remains closed and I push through the out post

 

[schematix]

i've honestly never experienced oxidation due to force carbing.....

My experience was quite a bit different, but it took me >60 batches and several years to finally be able to teach myself what the flavor was.

Some years ago I came across an article on oxidation and it made sense with what i was experiencing. So i started to slowly tighten up my fermentation and transfers. Each step got a little better, but it always happened.

Once i switched to fully closed fermentation and natural carbonation in the keg the flavor was eliminated.

 

[RTHP99]

I may give natural carbonation a shot next time, seeing as the beer needed some time to mellow out from the hop burn anyway

 

[schematix]

natural carbonation can go quite fast.

if you rack with a few points left and then just seal the receiving keg you'll probably be at pressure within 1-2 days.

 

[RTHP99]

Do you not use priming sugar?

 

[jakturner]

natural carbonation can go quite fast.

if you rack with a few points left and then just seal the receiving keg you'll probably be at pressure within 1-2 days.

Some times when I’m using my spunding valve on a different keg, I will cap the keg 24hrs after first dry hop (day 4-5) The beer is usually 80-90% carbed when I tap it. Haven’t over carbed one yet

 

[Hannabrew]

I wouldn't say that force carbing causes enough oxidation that results in the typical "oxidized" off-flavor, but in my experience (and the other hop head/freshie-chasing junkies that I associate with) it certainly will cause a highly flavor/aroma hopped beer to fall off from it's peak in no time.

There's nothing more frustrating than being so excited about a great batch only to find out that within a few days, it's just average.

I was giving away the last 2 gallons of all my kegs as I couldn't stand to drink them anymore.

 

[RTHP99]

The beer doesn't taste terrible by any means at the moment, but like you said, its annoying with a beer like this(neipa). I dumped a glass earlier because compared to what it was a few days ago, it stinks. I'll brew up another one asap and try natural carbonation this time

 

[Hannabrew]

To be clear, there are two methods to natural carbonation.

Ideally you'd "spund" or rack to your serving vessel with a few points (around 4-5 for this style) and let the each yeast cell act like a carbonating stone while also reducing O2 to 0 in the vessel. If you're not perfect with your timing, a spunding valve should be used or at least a careful eye on the pressure inside the keg to avoid overcarbonation. If you undercarb, you can either supplement using the next method or force carb the rest of the way (not ideal but you've already reduced to zero and gotten most of the way there so...)

If you miss the spund or your dry hopping schedule doesn't allow for racking with points, you can always prime the primary (yes the primary, not the serving vessel), and rack to your serving vessel once you see yeast activity again. The reason for priming the primary is again to ensure that all oxygen intake during racking is negated as quickly as possible. The downside to this approach is that it takes longer as you have a lot less yeast to do the job and there's always the folks that say they can pick out the "priming" flavor in a beer...I can't but YMMV.

 

[chieftain]

To be clear, there are two methods to natural carbonation.

Ideally you'd "spund" or rack to your serving vessel with a few points (around 4-5 for this style) and let the each yeast cell act like a carbonating stone while also reducing O2 to 0 in the vessel. If you're not perfect with your timing, a spunding valve should be used or at least a careful eye on the pressure inside the keg to avoid overcarbonation. If you undercarb, you can either supplement using the next method or force carb the rest of the way (not ideal but you've already reduced to zero and gotten most of the way there so...)

If you miss the spund or your dry hopping schedule doesn't allow for racking with points, you can always prime the primary (yes the primary, not the serving vessel), and rack to your serving vessel once you see yeast activity again. The reason for priming the primary is again to ensure that all oxygen intake during racking is negated as quickly as possible. The downside to this approach is that it takes longer as you have a lot less yeast to do the job and there's always the folks that say they can pick out the "priming" flavor in a beer...I can't but YMMV.

This may have been discussed upthread, but how do you handle dry hopping with this approach? For this style, I typically hop a few days into fermentation. Do you think you still get the bio transformation effect by putting the dry hop in the keg, and letting fermentation finish there?

 

[jmcquesten]

This may have been discussed upthread, but how do you handle dry hopping with this approach? For this style, I typically hop a few days into fermentation. Do you think you still get the bio transformation effect by putting the dry hop in the keg, and letting fermentation finish there?

I dry hop once in the fermenter, then transfer to a keg with another round of of dry hops, and a bit of sugar. After 4 or 5 days in the keg w/hops, I transfer to a serving keg.

 

[Hannabrew]

I dry hop 24 hours into fermentation. If I'm DDH, I add the second round to a water purged serving keg at that same time and then I hook up my blow off to the liquid out and continue to purge with fermentation gas until it's time to spund.

I've also just opened the keg and added the second round of dh after racking spund...you introduce o2 but the active yeast should take care of it.

This is a bit more challenging if you want a Brite IPA as you really want to wait until fermentation is complete before dry hopping. I haven't figured out a great solution for that however those beers are a little less susceptible to falling off so quickly

 

[chieftain]

I dry hop 24 hours into fermentation. If I'm DDH, I add the second round to a water purged serving keg at that same time and then I hook up my blow off to the liquid out and continue to purge with fermentation gas until it's time to spund.

I've also just opened the keg and added the second round of dh after racking spund...you introduce o2 but the active yeast should take care of it.

This is a bit more challenging if you want a Brite IPA as you really want to wait until fermentation is complete before dry hopping. I haven't figured out a great solution for that however those beers are a little less susceptible to falling off so quickly

Ok, thanks. You don't have issues with the 1st dry hop clogging the poppets, since you aren't cold crashing (I presume)?