New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I just kegged a batch yesterday that was a bit different - nothing major. Pretty much my standard recipe from post #1418. Used 1318 yeast. Only real difference was the hopping. Normal CMG combo. But, I just did 2 additions.
*Addition #1: Chilled wort to 160 or below and added 3 ounces of Citra, 2 of Mosaic, 1 of Galaxy.
*Addition #2: Single Dry hop at Day 2. Same as above.

So, did 6 ounces of whirlpool in one addition and did 6 ounces of Dry hop in one addition early in fermentation. Tasted and looked great going into the keg. We will see how it carbs up.I can't say it was necessarily "better" or anything..... but, it was at least just as good as normal and simpler than the extra additions. Also, I think the hops all dropped out a lot better because it was a single addition early in fermentation. Basically NO hop particulate went into the keg.
*I use the SS brew buckets..... I DO NOT use the little racking arm at all in them. I had no problem at all with "plugged" spigot or lots of unwanted debris getting transferred. And, that was with 6 ounces of Dry hops. I transferred this directly from Primary into Serving Keg. It was 12-14 days since brew day.
Usually, when I do that second dry hop addition, I have more debris that ends up going into my Keg. This streamlined approach seemed to work very well.


Can you explain further how you transfer?
I'm assuming you removed the racking arm inside? Then attach a piece of hose to the spigot...the other end of the hose gets a quick disconnect and you connect to the liquid out post of the serving keg?
 
I just kegged a batch yesterday that was a bit different - nothing major. Pretty much my standard recipe from post #1418. Used 1318 yeast. Only real difference was the hopping. Normal CMG combo. But, I just did 2 additions.
*Addition #1: Chilled wort to 160 or below and added 3 ounces of Citra, 2 of Mosaic, 1 of Galaxy.
*Addition #2: Single Dry hop at Day 2. Same as above.

So, did 6 ounces of whirlpool in one addition and did 6 ounces of Dry hop in one addition early in fermentation. Tasted and looked great going into the keg. We will see how it carbs up.I can't say it was necessarily "better" or anything..... but, it was at least just as good as normal and simpler than the extra additions. Also, I think the hops all dropped out a lot better because it was a single addition early in fermentation. Basically NO hop particulate went into the keg.
*I use the SS brew buckets..... I DO NOT use the little racking arm at all in them. I had no problem at all with "plugged" spigot or lots of unwanted debris getting transferred. And, that was with 6 ounces of Dry hops. I transferred this directly from Primary into Serving Keg. It was 12-14 days since brew day.
Usually, when I do that second dry hop addition, I have more debris that ends up going into my Keg. This streamlined approach seemed to work very well.

Wow you are dry hopping earlier every time, day 2?! lol i already thought it was early when i dry hopped at day 4 in my last batch.

Thanks for the info, i will be happy to save some hops by skipping the second dry hop if you report no loss on aroma, i have a batch from yesterday fermenting right now.
 
Wow you are dry hopping earlier every time, day 2?! lol i already thought it was early when i dry hopped at day 4 in my last batch.

Thanks for the info, i will be happy to save some hops by skipping the second dry hop if you report no loss on aroma, i have a batch from yesterday fermenting right now.

Yeah - Threw them in a day or two early because I was going out of town. Stills seemed to do the trick.

I really didn't "save" any hops. I generally did 2x3 ounces in whirlpool and 2x3 ounces in dry hops. This was just 1x 6 ounces and 1x 6 ounces..... so, same overall amount.
 
New technique: racking wort onto spent cake/dry hops from a previous batch. Just did it with an Alien Church-ish clone. I remember reading something that spent dry hops can still pack some punch. This recipe is so hoppy anyway (over 11 ounces in the boil for a 6g batch, plus 7 oz dry hop) that I'm sure I won't be able to tell the difference but it's worth a shot!

Carbing my cucumber NEIPA now and it tastes amazing! Huge melon flavor with a cucumber nose and all that hoppy goodness. Really pleased with it so far.
 
Solid read dude. I've tried the west coast IPA yeast from mangrove jack (m44?) and I reallly think I just under pitched, with old yeast, and really did not like the outcome. Reading some of the tasting notes compared to the recipe I do think you went a little light on the hops for an IPA of this style. I'll do three types of hops at 56 grams each split into to two dry hops, or 168 grams total dry hop, and the same amount for the whirlpool. That said, I tend to knock down the amounts for the single hop APA batches, going 112 grams total whirlpool and 112 total dry hop.

On a side note, how are you rehydrating your dry yeast? I'm not sure if anyone else does this, but I actually rehydrate my dry yeast into starter wort. I know there was once a taboo against it, but one pack s-04 into 1L starter wort shaken as hard as possible takes only a few hours to reach high Krausen. I can get one going the very start of brew day and pitch the whole active starter by the end. I've had amazing results, and I've even sped up grain to glass timings quite a bit.


Sorry if this is a ramble, I've just got out of work and I'm enjoying a few pints of this style as I type this...errors may happen :tank:

Thanks, yeah the Mangrove Jacks packets are 10g ratherthan the 11.5g of the fermentis stuff. Couplethat with longerlag times on these yeasts, and I've found that you're better off over pitching your dry yeast on M44. I've since adopted this for all MJ yeasts I use, with good results.
Depending on US-05 and S-04 as well, sometimes I'll errr o nthe side of caution. (i.e 1.2 packs on mr malty gets 2 packs.)

My rehydration is standard, minimum of 100ml boiled and cooled water, (199ml for 1 pack / 150ml for 2 / 200ml for 3 etc) i then pitch the packs in and let them sit for 10-15mins, then aftethis stir and let sit for an additional 15 mins (vigorous stirring)

Yeah, afte the comp for the brew club on Friday I figured I had underdone my hopping a touch. I've read alot about large dryhops, but i've always been tentative about doing it. i really likethe balance of bitterness to hops in the beer, it just doesnt scream juicey, and i think thats mostly down to not enough dryhopping.
something closer to what you say in dryhop, or even more might be worthwhile. sadly though I was restricted by what hops I had on hand.
 
Hi, i am going to brew this with the following water profile, does this look ok, any issues that anyone can see? Would i then be ok to swap the SO4 and Cl values around and brew the same beer and see how they compare?

Screen Shot 2017-06-21 at 6.17.17 PM.jpg
 
Hi, i am going to brew this with the following water profile, does this look ok, any issues that anyone can see? Would i then be ok to swap the SO4 and Cl values around and brew the same beer and see how they compare?

(Personal Preference) - I think if your goal is to compare high/low ratios of Sulfate/Chloride - this looks good. I think if you are looking for (what I would consider) the best range on minerals..... I personally think pushing 200 on sulfate or Chloride might be going toward or beyond the high end of the range that most people seem to be using. However, if you don't push that high end you probably won't see as distinct a difference for comparison purposes. So, that 200 number might be necessary if you really want to contrast the two.

Personally, I tend to not go beyond about 150 on either number.

That said - I think either beer should be good. And, you may find one of these extremes to be what you personally like.:mug:
 
I brewed these two beers mid May using Imperial Organic Yeast the barbarian strain... both turned out great. Has anyone used this strain? Huuuuge tropical stone fruit nose, pineapple and mango. Very pleasant.

The draft is Simcoe-Citra hopped... also tried a new technique by adding an immediate dry hop of 2 oz right at yeast pitch... added 5 additional oz for a 2nd KH. I noticed a bigger aroma from these two than my other beers (which had great aromas-this beer them)

IMG_4819.jpg


IMG_4789.jpg
 
Wow you are dry hopping earlier every time, day 2?! lol i already thought it was early when i dry hopped at day 4 in my last batch.

Thanks for the info, i will be happy to save some hops by skipping the second dry hop if you report no loss on aroma, i have a batch from yesterday fermenting right now.

Chiming in here. I have been doing neipas a couple of years now and also have followed all the neipa posting and on the web. I now add my first dry hop addition at 60hours, I read it is a contributing factor in the "juicy" flavor. After doing it this way it is exactly what I was looking for. I still also dry hop 3 day before racking. Generally split the ho additions in half; 6oz -> 3oz at 60hours 3oz with 3days remaining.
 
Color on that is awesome, is it really that neon orange like color?
What German hops did you use?
 
Color on that is awesome, is it really that neon orange like color?
What German hops did you use?

In direct sunlight, yes. This would be as the young ones say #nofilter

Huell melon, bavaria mandarina, hallertau blanc and belma.. complex mix mostly German, think belma is pnw but recommended. Melon and touch of tangerine brightness

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What stands out to you with the elimination of honey malt?

A touch more pale for sure. Maybe a bit less sweet? Can't claim that for sure without doing a true head to head though.

I have a couple others in the pipeline where I am simplifying things down to the basics in terms of grain bill and hopping. Will report back on those in a couple weeks hopefully.
 
Personally never felt the need to use honey malt in every NEIPA I make. You are better off either changing base grain brands or blending different base malts.
 
A touch more pale for sure. Maybe a bit less sweet? Can't claim that for sure without doing a true head to head though.



I have a couple others in the pipeline where I am simplifying things down to the basics in terms of grain bill and hopping. Will report back on those in a couple weeks hopefully.


ever try dropping the OG for a session version? honey malt might help a session version avoid thin and dry character
 
ever try dropping the OG for a session version? honey malt might help a session version avoid thin and dry character

I brew a ton of them between 1.050 and 1.055....... Have not really had a ton of success with true "session" IPA's in the 1.040-1.045 range. Should probably revisit them.
 
I brew a ton of them between 1.050 and 1.055....... Have not really had a ton of success with true "session" IPA's in the 1.040-1.045 range. Should probably revisit them.

my session I just tried sucked! Lacked body to it, just came out thin and lifeless. Thinking of maybe using all Golden Promise instead?
 
Last batch..... CMG hops. 1318 yeast. One 6 ounce addition in whirlpool and one 6 ounce dry hop at day two. 140:90 chloride:sulfate. Day 16 from brew day. Basic recipe from post 1418, minus the honey malt. Fantastic.

Does this mean you skipped the 60 minute addition as well and used only whirlpool and dry-hops?

edit:
OK, I see a few posts back that you used WP and DH as the only additions...
 
Does this mean you skipped the 60 minute addition as well and used only whirlpool and dry-hops?

edit:
OK, I see a few posts back that you used WP and DH as the only additions...

Sorry - I DID still add half ounce or so bittering addition of warrior. I basically always put in around 30 IBU's with a small 60 minute addition.
 
Figured I'd post up a pic of my latest east coast IPA. This is my own recipe of only 2 row and pilsner malts...NO FLAKED ANYTHING...and citra/mosaic hop combo. I'm pretty set now that the yeast is what makes these things hazy. I used 1318 and this is how it came out.

I don't think that is accurate, at least not in my experience anyway. I used the same grain bill as in Brau's recipe, but I used US-05 to ferment and ALL dry hops were added together at the END (day 10) of fermentation. Hops were also placed in a weighted hop bag. My beer looks just like your picture. :)
 
I don't think that is accurate, at least not in my experience anyway. I used the same grain bill as in Brau's recipe, but I used US-05 to ferment and ALL dry hops were added together at the END (day 10) of fermentation. Hops were also placed in a weighted hop bag. My beer looks just like your picture. :)

I believe it when you use oats,wheat and a bunch of other flaked stuff. I think it will keep it hazy, but with a beer that has no wheat or flaked stuff, just using pilsner and 2 row, the yeast alone is what is making it hazy. I tried the recipe in #1418 and used Conan yeast. In 3.5 weeks it had already dropped clear.
 
I don't think that is accurate, at least not in my experience anyway. I used the same grain bill as in Brau's recipe, but I used US-05 to ferment and ALL dry hops were added together at the END (day 10) of fermentation. Hops were also placed in a weighted hop bag. My beer looks just like your picture. :)


us-05 always clears pretty fast for me. 1318, conan and wlp095 are way cloudier, especially 1318
 
i've also been interested in doing a base malt mash and then raise the wort to 170 in the kettle and steep some crystal malt. i think part of the problem is that carapils, crystal and other character malts are destroyed by the mash enzymes. if we just steeped them we might get more fullness and sweetness from them. i remember my extract beers having a lot of fullness, but it was also like 12 yrs ago since i did an extract batch!
 
Hey Bru or anybody leveraging the primary to keg dry hop in with the screens/filters. Looking at early threads, I see liquid post -> top keg fitting -> into keg through rubber bung -> then with screen on bottom of liquid post inside of the hop screen. How do you from a logistical perspective make that happen/fit. That larger keg screen only gives you an inch of clearance and then post filter screen is all of 3 inches, can you explain how you easily put this together inside the keg, even with a shortened liquid tube.
 
Should there be concerns with adding top off water at the end of brew to hit expected OG with this style? I have a smaller kettle and plan to brew a higher gravity beer and then top off with ~.5 gallons of water once the wort is in the fermenter. Should I be concerned with this effecting the flavor?
 
A pound of crystal malts always gives me a higher final gravity, regardless of the mash temp. In the single hop APA beers all I use is 2row, Munich and flaked wheat, and I'll usually ferment down to 1.005-1.007. A pound of crystal and I get stuck at 1.011-1.013. Using s-04 though..I really couldn't get used to handling Conan, and I thought the reward really didn't warrant the extra work
 
A pound of crystal malts always gives me a higher final gravity, regardless of the mash temp. In the single hop APA beers all I use is 2row, Munich and flaked wheat, and I'll usually ferment down to 1.005-1.007. A pound of crystal and I get stuck at 1.011-1.013. Using s-04 though..I really couldn't get used to handling Conan, and I thought the reward really didn't warrant the extra work

What extra work do you mean? I use it just like any other yeast...
 
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