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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I have been using WY1272 in quite a few styles and liking it lately. Stouts/porters, a couple ambers, and 3 DIPA's (one more NEIPA like). If you have some wheat/oats in the grain bill and add the hops with 4-5 points left in fermentation it finishes cloudy, nice mouthfeel, and not overly fruity/sweet. I didn't start using the 1272 until I was on generation 3 of harvesting so using it right from a smack pack I don't know how it will be.


Thanks I will definitely be trying WY1272 and will get back on this thread. WLP001 is my favorite so far but it just didn't seem especially suited to the style.

Also regarding the post i saw above about hopping 15 - FO to give a smooth bitterness to balance the juices, spot on. For 5gal I think you need to add an ounce or more of a high AA% hop around 10mins. The X331 I posted was the 3rd in a series of 3 SMASH pale ales and the first two I brewed consecutively with no boil additions or whirlpool additions above 170. I thought it was going to be great but I now feel there is something to be said about a balance of isomerized alpha acids in almost any style.

The X331 I hopped with 1.5oz over the last 15mins and it was much more balanced.
 
What does the el dorado bring to the table? I've had limited experience brewing with it.

I just made a mango milkshake DIPA with Citra, Galaxy and El Dorado. Very pronounced candied tropical fruit flavor and aroma.

hwg5g0.jpg
 
I just made a mango milkshake DIPA with Citra, Galaxy and El Dorado. Very pronounced candied tropical fruit flavor and aroma.

hwg5g0.jpg

That looks pretty darn good. What yeast did you use? What was your final gravity? I think all of mine so far have just been lacking that sweetness from the malt. Going to try to mash higher next time to see if it helps.
 
I keep hearing words candy and el dorado in parallel... I need to give el dorado another go. Man, i've been on all these Kolshes and Milds lately but I think its time for more hops!
 
That looks pretty darn good. What yeast did you use? What was your final gravity? I think all of mine so far have just been lacking that sweetness from the malt. Going to try to mash higher next time to see if it helps.

You could add a little crystal or caramel. That's what is generally used to give IPAs a sweet malty character. I avoid those in almost all styles personally. But I have friends who absolutely love beers that I don't solely due to the presence of a little of those sweet malts. The hops themselves and the amount of isomerized alpha acids vs hop oils can balance the percieved sweetness as well and will lend a more thirst quenching, juicy, quaffableness. Sweet malts slow me down:tank:

And as strange as it sounds I feel like if your using hops that put out major stone fruit, pineapple, melon, etc, a slightly higher sulfate to chloride ratio actually brings out the rounded sweetness more than it would if you went higher on chloride. I'm pretty sure I'm sticking with a 2:1 sulfate to chloride from now on because i feel like your really relying on the hops juicy character to pop rather than bringing out the malt which is just a vehicle that adds body.

^^The above statement is anecdotal and based off 6 NE batches, 2 with higher sulfate, 4 with higher chloride
 
I keep hearing words candy and el dorado in parallel... I need to give el dorado another go. Man, i've been on all these Kolshes and Milds lately but I think its time for more hops!

Certainly don't use 001 with these. Look into Imperial Yeast. They have a new one out A38 Juice specifically designed for this style and its amazing.
 
Stupid question I'm sure, but I was out of the home brewing game for quite awhile. You guys are saying you are hop bursting 15-FO. Are you using regular hop pellets to do this? Or the co2 extract stuff?
 
Stupid question I'm sure, but I was out of the home brewing game for quite awhile. You guys are saying you are hop bursting 15-FO. Are you using regular hop pellets to do this? Or the co2 extract stuff?

depends. I've done small bittering additions anywhere from 60 minutes to as late as 15 minutes depending on the profile I want. Outside of that, most of us are not adding any additional hops till 170F and below in temperature in a whirlpool with an ever larger dry hop.
 
That looks pretty darn good. What yeast did you use? What was your final gravity? I think all of mine so far have just been lacking that sweetness from the malt. Going to try to mash higher next time to see if it helps.

I used WY1318, great for when you want a little extra sweetness from the malt (golden promise in this case). FG was 1.028, which sounds ridiculous but actually worked out great for this style. The mouthfeel is so full and creamy (2 vanilla beans in the keg worked great). The pH finished at 3.9 from 6 lbs of mango puree (in a paint bag so I could pull out the solids). I mashed at 154F and used 1 lb of lactose (OG was 1.090 so right at 9% ABV). 12 oz of aroma/dry hops with 40 IBU bittering charge. Next time I would prob drop the mash to 151F. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, but I've never had a "real" milkshake IPA before.
 
Stupid question I'm sure, but I was out of the home brewing game for quite awhile. You guys are saying you are hop bursting 15-FO. Are you using regular hop pellets to do this? Or the co2 extract stuff?

I'd recommend adding the hop extract at 60, targeting 40 IBU for almost all IPAs, a bit more for DIPAs. Then no hops until FO. I like about 6 oz staggered across 30 min. Then 6 oz dry hop split between high krausen and in the keg.
 
In combination with a bittering hop I agree. I've been running some hop bursting 15 - FO w/o a bittering hop and love it. The bitter is super smooth and just enough to balance the hop juice.

I was referring to the method in this post. I've brewed two so far and both times I used, I believe, an ounce of Columbus at 60 and the remaining hops at the end.
 
In combination with a bittering hop I agree. I've been running some hop bursting 15 - FO w/o a bittering hop and love it. The bitter is super smooth and just enough to balance the hop juice.

I was referring to the method in this post. I've brewed two so far and both times I used, I believe, an ounce of Columbus at 60 and the remaining hops at the end.
 
This is a popular thread so I wanted to share my NE IPA yeast experience.

I have used Braufessor's recipe on post 1418 many times with 1318 and the G/M/C hop combo. Love it!!

Wanting to experiment, same grain bill as always, I used Brettanomyces Clausenii as my primary yeast. I decided not to add dry hop addition #1 (bio-transformation) since I was not sure about the way that would turn out. I also only used Galaxy and Mosaic while leaving out the Citra on this one.

Anyway, I made a Brett starter slowly for one week with the bar barely making a vortex dimple as not to bring in much O2. In 5.5G wort, yeast was very active and finished in 5 days although I left it 14 days in primary.

This is a WONDERFUL beer with just a tiny bit of Brett funk BUT a whole fruit bowl of pineapple! WOW!! The reason I left out the Citra was due to the projections of pineapple and that was a good call, I think.
 
What does the el dorado bring to the table? I've had limited experience brewing with it.

I recently did a NEIPA with only El Dorado for flavor/aroma. I used Columbus in the boil for battering.

El Dorado tastes very melon like. Watermelon, cantaloupe, somewhere in that area. It really had no citrus qualities to it. It was not bad on its own, but feel its much better paired with others. I actually ended up added some mosaic/citra/azecca in the keg a couple weeks later and it tastes much better with the other flavors to round it out. Just was not my thing on its own.
 
SO i have been going along making a bunch of very tasty NE IPAs. A couple weeks ago I brewed my first 10 gallon batch in a new setup. I split into 2 fermenters. I kegged the first last night and it tastes effing horrible. Like vomit inducing horrible. No idea what the hell happened. I did have some issues trying to keep my mash temp (BIAB) but still kept it in the 145-160 range. For the hell of it I just took a sample from the other fermenter and it is horrible tasting as well. I am disappointed and perplexed on what is going on. Never had a single issue before, all batches, 8 of them were awesome. Any ideas?
 
SO i have been going along making a bunch of very tasty NE IPAs. A couple weeks ago I brewed my first 10 gallon batch in a new setup. I split into 2 fermenters. I kegged the first last night and it tastes effing horrible. Like vomit inducing horrible. No idea what the hell happened. I did have some issues trying to keep my mash temp (BIAB) but still kept it in the 145-160 range. For the hell of it I just took a sample from the other fermenter and it is horrible tasting as well. I am disappointed and perplexed on what is going on. Never had a single issue before, all batches, 8 of them were awesome. Any ideas?


is there something u had to change equipment or process-wise on your setup that could have introduced an infection?
 
This is a popular thread so I wanted to share my NE IPA yeast experience.



I have used Braufessor's recipe on post 1418 many times with 1318 and the G/M/C hop combo. Love it!!



Wanting to experiment, same grain bill as always, I used Brettanomyces Clausenii as my primary yeast. I decided not to add dry hop addition #1 (bio-transformation) since I was not sure about the way that would turn out. I also only used Galaxy and Mosaic while leaving out the Citra on this one.



Anyway, I made a Brett starter slowly for one week with the bar barely making a vortex dimple as not to bring in much O2. In 5.5G wort, yeast was very active and finished in 5 days although I left it 14 days in primary.



This is a WONDERFUL beer with just a tiny bit of Brett funk BUT a whole fruit bowl of pineapple! WOW!! The reason I left out the Citra was due to the projections of pineapple and that was a good call, I think.


how is the body? i've heard Brett leaves no body. also, was it a 500mL starter? I've read that is adequate with Brett
 
is there something u had to change equipment or process-wise on your setup that could have introduced an infection?

I used my new kettle for the first time. This is really the only change so far. I went from a 10 gallon kettle to a 20. Everything else was existing equipment.
 
I used my new kettle for the first time. This is really the only change so far. I went from a 10 gallon kettle to a 20. Everything else was existing equipment.


Volume of the kettle shouldn't make that much of a difference with flavor. If it tastes that bad it is 90% likely to do with fermentation.

Did you double up your yeast pitch? Instead of one smack pack into a liter starter for instance, 2 smack packs into a two liter starter?
 
Also, 145-160 F is a massive swing in mash temp. Also, with the new kettle, was there any instructions on how to clean prior to first use that may have been missed?
 
I used my new kettle for the first time. This is really the only change so far. I went from a 10 gallon kettle to a 20. Everything else was existing equipment.

Did you wash machining oils off new kettle and rub with white paper towels until any black residue on the paper towel had disappeared?

Thanks for the info on EL DORADO, i've noticed also that in general with 1318 a blend of hops seems to be better at balancing an over melon-like flavor. Have tried smash citra, amarillo, and x331 with this and the best turnout was x331 because it hits a lot of targets on flavor.

Random question. Has anyone noticed that NEIPAs seem to be more volatile when it comes to co2 solution? I feel that they easily carb and decarb.
 
Also, 145-160 F is a massive swing in mash temp. Also, with the new kettle, was there any instructions on how to clean prior to first use that may have been missed?

I am wondering if it was a cleaning issue. I gave it a quick rinse but did not really give it a soak or a really good scrub prior to use. I just went over the inside with bar keepers friend and rinsed and now I am soaking the whole thing in PBW. then going to run PBW through all the valves and new hosing and pump i just got.
 
I am wondering if it was a cleaning issue. I gave it a quick rinse but did not really give it a soak or a really good scrub prior to use. I just went over the inside with bar keepers friend and rinsed and now I am soaking the whole thing in PBW. then going to run PBW through all the valves and new hosing and pump i just got.

I had a keg from Sabco that was refurbished didn't clean it thoroughly. The resulting first beer kegged tasted awful. It could be the kettle cleaning.

probably want to do a cheap, easy, fast test batch for the next brew to make sure that you fixed the problem.
 
Use TSP then PBW then rinse like all hell and StarSan I'll bet after the TSP hot bath it'll be great.

TSP can be obtained super cheap from HAD or Lowe's and it's purpose is to remove manufacturing oils from the new SS.
 
In combination with a bittering hop I agree. I've been running some hop bursting 15 - FO w/o a bittering hop and love it. The bitter is super smooth and just enough to balance the hop juice.

I have never tried this but have been thinking about it.

Do you use the same hops that you are going to whirpool / dryhop with? How much do you add during the 15-FO period?
 
My latest rendition brewed 5/13, bottled 6/1.
Used Imperial Yeast
Chinook bittering hop, Galaxy, Citra and Columbus hops for flavor and aroma. Fantastic flavor-very tropical.

IMG_4789.jpg
 
Stupid question, and a little:off: but I do mini mash and partial boil, and have always wondered if I was supposed to treat the water I use to top up the fermented. I usually only mash and spared additions, wondering if anyone else could weigh in,. I use 100% ro water from start to finish
 
My latest rendition brewed 5/13, bottled 6/1.
Used Imperial Yeast
Chinook bittering hop, Galaxy, Citra and Columbus hops for flavor and aroma. Fantastic flavor-very tropical.

Not trying to be an ass, but how did you bottle that successfully? To me it appears oxidized but that may be the photograph.
 
Not trying to be an ass, but how did you bottle that successfully? To me it appears oxidized but that may be the photograph.

looks ok to me??
Are you talking aboutthe darker color? I would suggest a darker crystal was used.
if it was oxidised it would be considerably darker IMO
 
Not trying to be an ass, but how did you bottle that successfully? To me it appears oxidized but that may be the photograph.

photos are nice, but you can't tell ****e from them IMHO. There is so much variability in light and such... they are just more for fun if you ask me

you CAN tell if something is murky or clear i guess and if it is in a general color range of course, but not much else
 
Brau, Do you have an updated recipe for the Red NEIPA? Do you still recommend it? I am thinking of giving one of them a try for fun to change up from the usual golden NEIPA rut... ( a good rut, but one nonetheless!)
 
Brau, Do you have an updated recipe for the Red NEIPA? Do you still recommend it? I am thinking of giving one of them a try for fun to change up from the usual golden NEIPA rut... ( a good rut, but one nonetheless!)

I have been pretty happy with my last two Ambers - not perfect, but pretty darn good.

63% 2 Row
14% Munich (7L)
10% Flaked something
7% Caramel (I used a a combo of 40-80L, including a bit of Caramunich III)
4% Wheat
1.5% Aromatic
.5% Crafa or Roast Barley for color

1.060-1.065 OG
12-14 SRM

Horizon to bitter to 30 IBU
Cascade/Centennial for any mid to late boil additions...... 2-4 ounces total
Falconers Flight For whirlpool and Dry hopping.

*Added an ounce of Horizon to Whirlpool last time... not sure if it made a "big" difference..... but, the beer was good.

Water - Ca, Sulfate, Chloride, Bicarbonate was all around 80 in last couple batches. Sodium @20ppm
80% RO water
pH - 5.38

I used 1272 yeast the last couple times.... but, Conan or 1318 would probably be more appropriate.

**Simcoe and Amarillo might work ok it this too.

Have not brewed it in a while.... I will probably give it another run with Conan this next week.
:mug:
 
Stupid question, and a little:off: but I do mini mash and partial boil, and have always wondered if I was supposed to treat the water I use to top up the fermented. I usually only mash and spared additions, wondering if anyone else could weigh in,. I use 100% ro water from start to finish

Yeah - I would treat all water the same. If you don't you are just diluting down your mineral profile with the RO water. I suppose if it was a small amount it would not matter at all.... If it was a couple gallons, it could make a difference. Or - think ahead and add all of the extra minerals to the mash or boil.
 
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