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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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ever try dropping the OG for a session version? honey malt might help a session version avoid thin and dry character

I brew a ton of them between 1.050 and 1.055....... Have not really had a ton of success with true "session" IPA's in the 1.040-1.045 range. Should probably revisit them.
 
I brew a ton of them between 1.050 and 1.055....... Have not really had a ton of success with true "session" IPA's in the 1.040-1.045 range. Should probably revisit them.

my session I just tried sucked! Lacked body to it, just came out thin and lifeless. Thinking of maybe using all Golden Promise instead?
 
Last batch..... CMG hops. 1318 yeast. One 6 ounce addition in whirlpool and one 6 ounce dry hop at day two. 140:90 chloride:sulfate. Day 16 from brew day. Basic recipe from post 1418, minus the honey malt. Fantastic.

Does this mean you skipped the 60 minute addition as well and used only whirlpool and dry-hops?

edit:
OK, I see a few posts back that you used WP and DH as the only additions...
 
Does this mean you skipped the 60 minute addition as well and used only whirlpool and dry-hops?

edit:
OK, I see a few posts back that you used WP and DH as the only additions...

Sorry - I DID still add half ounce or so bittering addition of warrior. I basically always put in around 30 IBU's with a small 60 minute addition.
 
Figured I'd post up a pic of my latest east coast IPA. This is my own recipe of only 2 row and pilsner malts...NO FLAKED ANYTHING...and citra/mosaic hop combo. I'm pretty set now that the yeast is what makes these things hazy. I used 1318 and this is how it came out.

I don't think that is accurate, at least not in my experience anyway. I used the same grain bill as in Brau's recipe, but I used US-05 to ferment and ALL dry hops were added together at the END (day 10) of fermentation. Hops were also placed in a weighted hop bag. My beer looks just like your picture. :)
 
I don't think that is accurate, at least not in my experience anyway. I used the same grain bill as in Brau's recipe, but I used US-05 to ferment and ALL dry hops were added together at the END (day 10) of fermentation. Hops were also placed in a weighted hop bag. My beer looks just like your picture. :)

I believe it when you use oats,wheat and a bunch of other flaked stuff. I think it will keep it hazy, but with a beer that has no wheat or flaked stuff, just using pilsner and 2 row, the yeast alone is what is making it hazy. I tried the recipe in #1418 and used Conan yeast. In 3.5 weeks it had already dropped clear.
 
I don't think that is accurate, at least not in my experience anyway. I used the same grain bill as in Brau's recipe, but I used US-05 to ferment and ALL dry hops were added together at the END (day 10) of fermentation. Hops were also placed in a weighted hop bag. My beer looks just like your picture. :)


us-05 always clears pretty fast for me. 1318, conan and wlp095 are way cloudier, especially 1318
 
i've also been interested in doing a base malt mash and then raise the wort to 170 in the kettle and steep some crystal malt. i think part of the problem is that carapils, crystal and other character malts are destroyed by the mash enzymes. if we just steeped them we might get more fullness and sweetness from them. i remember my extract beers having a lot of fullness, but it was also like 12 yrs ago since i did an extract batch!
 
Hey Bru or anybody leveraging the primary to keg dry hop in with the screens/filters. Looking at early threads, I see liquid post -> top keg fitting -> into keg through rubber bung -> then with screen on bottom of liquid post inside of the hop screen. How do you from a logistical perspective make that happen/fit. That larger keg screen only gives you an inch of clearance and then post filter screen is all of 3 inches, can you explain how you easily put this together inside the keg, even with a shortened liquid tube.
 
Should there be concerns with adding top off water at the end of brew to hit expected OG with this style? I have a smaller kettle and plan to brew a higher gravity beer and then top off with ~.5 gallons of water once the wort is in the fermenter. Should I be concerned with this effecting the flavor?
 
A pound of crystal malts always gives me a higher final gravity, regardless of the mash temp. In the single hop APA beers all I use is 2row, Munich and flaked wheat, and I'll usually ferment down to 1.005-1.007. A pound of crystal and I get stuck at 1.011-1.013. Using s-04 though..I really couldn't get used to handling Conan, and I thought the reward really didn't warrant the extra work
 
A pound of crystal malts always gives me a higher final gravity, regardless of the mash temp. In the single hop APA beers all I use is 2row, Munich and flaked wheat, and I'll usually ferment down to 1.005-1.007. A pound of crystal and I get stuck at 1.011-1.013. Using s-04 though..I really couldn't get used to handling Conan, and I thought the reward really didn't warrant the extra work

What extra work do you mean? I use it just like any other yeast...
 
I'm talking more about how Conan is slow for the first generation, and I'm not really trying to make a small beer with no hops just to use a yeast for the name. I've had it stall half way on me, and maybe I just had bad experiences but it just didn't seem worth it.



I have no problem using liquid yeast vs dry, I really don't think there's any difference in the amount of effort it takes to use one vs the other, I just like the convenience of dru yeast not expiring as quickly, and I think the attenuation of s-04 makes it more versatile for other styles.

But to each his own
 
Braufessor, did you get any "overhopped" flavors from dry hopping for so long (day 2)? Many people say "7 days max. 4-5 days are best" but is that actually true??
 
Hey all! Figured I'd jump in and post what I have landed on after tweaking my recipe over the last few months.

Northeastern IPA with Conan X WLP644 hybrid

10 gallons packaged (about 11.75 gallons post boil)
OG 1.064
62% Pearl malt
28% German wheat malt
3% Naked oats
7% Roller oats

FWH
1 oz Simcoe
1 oz X331 experimental hop
(about 40 IBUs calculated)

Whirlpool
3 oz Simcoe 170° f 30 minutes
3 oz X331 experimental hop 170° f 30 minutes
(with my electric system I can hold temp at set point)

Chill to 64°f, 11 gallons split into two carboys pitched pitch 1200ml decanter starter of F1 Conan X WLP644 hybrid (hybrid, not a blend) into well oxygenated wort. Set the follow fermentation schedule on 2 individually STC1000+ in dorm fridges for each carboy.

Ramping between
66°f to 70°f over 72 hours >
70°f to 75° over 96 hours

*3 oz Galaxy dry hop 7.5 days in primary just after high krausen started to fall (2.5 days after pitching yeast)

Co2 purged, closed transfer
5 oz Galaxy spilt keg hopped in weighed hop sacks one week at room temp then chilled to serving temp and left in for the duration of the kegs life.

FG 1.009 grain to glass 10 days.

I brewed a few batches with Conan and was happy with the results as it was pleasantly fruity but even with a low mash temp it left too much residual sugar/sweetness for my liking.
I haven't read every post in this thread so forgive me if the yeast has been discussed for this style:
With the hybrid cross of Conan and Sacc. Trois WLP644 we have a fast starting, higher attenuating, super fruity, non-phenolic yeast with decent mouth feel = best of both worlds in a single strain! I'm super critical of my beers and always can find a flaw but not this one, hands down the best beer I've brewed since first home brewing 10 years ago and it is, as with most beer, the yeast!
If you want to learn more about the Conan X WLP644: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066
 
Hey all! Figured I'd jump in and post what I have landed on after tweaking my recipe over the last few months.

Northeastern IPA with Conan X WLP644 hybrid

10 gallons packaged (about 11.75 gallons post boil)
OG 1.064
62% Pearl malt
28% German wheat malt
3% Naked oats
7% Roller oats

FWH
1 oz Simcoe
1 oz X331 experimental hop
(about 40 IBUs calculated)

Whirlpool
3 oz Simcoe 170° f 30 minutes
3 oz X331 experimental hop 170° f 30 minutes
(with my electric system I can hold temp at set point)

Chill to 64°f, 11 gallons split into two carboys pitched pitch 1200ml decanter starter of F1 Conan X WLP644 hybrid (hybrid, not a blend) into well oxygenated wort. Set the follow fermentation schedule on 2 individually STC1000+ in dorm fridges for each carboy.

Ramping between
66°f to 70°f over 72 hours >
70°f to 75° over 96 hours

*3 oz Galaxy dry hop 7.5 days in primary just after high krausen started to fall (2.5 days after pitching yeast)

Co2 purged, closed transfer
5 oz Galaxy spilt keg hopped in weighed hop sacks one week at room temp then chilled to serving temp and left in for the duration of the kegs life.

FG 1.009 grain to glass 10 days.

I brewed a few batches with Conan and was happy with the results as it was pleasantly fruity but even with a low mash temp it left too much residual sugar/sweetness for my liking.
I haven't read every post in this thread so forgive me if the yeast has been discussed for this style:
With the hybrid cross of Conan and Sacc. Trois WLP644 we have a fast starting, higher attenuating, super fruity, non-phenolic yeast with decent mouth feel = best of both worlds in a single strain! I'm super critical of my beers and always can find a flaw but not this one, hands down the best beer I've brewed since first home brewing 10 years ago and it is, as with most beer, the yeast!
If you want to learn more about the Conan X WLP644: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066

I am digging the sound of this yeast! I experience all the same pitfalls with the NEIPA yeasts they leave it a bit too sweet.

Also +1 on the X331, killer hop strain!
 
Braufessor, did you get any "overhopped" flavors from dry hopping for so long (day 2)? Many people say "7 days max. 4-5 days are best" but is that actually true??

No. In general, the only time I have ever had any trouble with "overhopped" flavors has been when I have used crappy hops. In those cases.... the amount and the time never really seemed to matter that much - bad hops, bad flavors. Good hops, good flavors.
 
+1 on the X331, killer hop strain!

Yea, really like it too. The lack of "catty" and "BO" and make it very nice even for this style. I originally picked it up from Farmhouse supply but they have been out of stock for sometime, do you know a source that currently has it onhand?
 
+1 on the X331, killer hop strain!

Yea, really like it too. The lack of "cattyness" and "BO" makes it a good fit for this style. I originally picked it up from Farmhouse brewing supply but they have been out of stock for sometime, do you know a source that currently has it onhand?
 
Yea, really like it too. The lack of "cattyness" and "BO" makes it a good fit for this style. I originally picked it up from Farmhouse brewing supply but they have been out of stock for sometime, do you know a source that currently has it onhand?

That is the only source I'm aware of, they seem to stagger their release of it i wouldn't be suprised to see it available soon. I checked for about 2 months before it was available.
 
I just posted in the Treehouse Julius Clone thread so some of you may have seen this before, but does anyone have a New England Fuzzy Baby Ducks clone or idea. Just had that beer and it was so good! Sorry for being a little off topic.
 
Question regarding Braufessor NE IPA (post #1418). I got my water tested and I've been playing around in Brun Water. What is the Water Volume (gal) for the Mash and then for the Sparge that need to be inputted?
 
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